So no need to touch the brake front brake lever at all for this method to work ?

Before i did this i just saw some youtube videos ...in all those videos the people were pressing the front lever thats why i did the same and after 3 or four times i accidentally let go of the front brake lever before tightening the bolt ...maybe it sucked a lot of air i dont know.

Have some more brake fluid left will try your method psrji...i remember seeing this guy what he did was he first connected the transparent pipe and instead of letting it go inside a pet bottle he connected the other end to a huge syringe and filled the master cylinder to the brim ...then he just used the syringe to suck the the old brake fluid and stopped as soon as new brake fluid started appearing on the transparent pipe

UPDATE : The snap i posted earlier of T mark is wrong only today i found that out while setting my tappet...the mark on that picture is "F" ...i dont know what this F stands for but to see the T mark i had to rotate the crank a little further .

Adjusted the tappet today ...took me 3 hrs to get it right :

Th mech at SC didnt use the feeler gauge so i knew that the measurement would be off the mark....the shock was both the tappets were so tight neither 0.08mm or the 0.12 gauge would fit .I would set the correct clearance...tighten the lock nut...then turn the crank 2 times then check the clearance again..i had to do it so many times lol .

The only problem i faced was i would set the EX = 0.12mm but as soon as i tightened the lock nut even 0.14mm gauge would fit ....after trying like this for more than 30mins i realized i was applying more force on the tappet adjusting tool to counter the 10 ring spanner that i used to tighten the lock nut.

After 3 hrs of trial and error i finally managed to set both the tappets to manual specs.One of the head cover washers was "loose" so replaced it and put new rubber gasket and started the bike...could hear a faint very faint valve noise but the kicker has become a little more hard to kick and maybe i am imagining things but pickup seems to have improved a lot.

The SC mech not only set the tappets too tight but the lock nut was so hard to loosen ...i had to apply considerable force to get it unscrewed...dont know if it has to be that much tight but i tightened it only little bit...before putting the head cover back i tried to unscrew both the lock nuts by hand it felt tight so didnt tight it any further... hope it doesnt come off .


Also TDC on xtreme i think one can check with the dot mark on the cam sprocket it will be on the upper right right above the horizontal mark.

One more thing will turning the crank clockwise cause any damage while setting the TDC ? cause i accidentally rotated the crank clockwise once instead of turning it anti clockwise .

Hey, nice to know you got it done! I'm sure the ASC mech has set my tappets too tightly as well.

Could you please list the tools you needed to get this done? Also, a small tutorial would also help.

My battery is weak it seems.
Planning to get the electrolyte checked and charged from shop.
As Hunk/Xtreme has DC ignition, will the bike run without battery?
I believe it will run from the power coming at the battery charging terminals, but not sure.
(I've ridden my Splendor for an year without battery, but not sure if Splendor has DC/AC ignition)

bike will run without any battery except for self start.i hope u have kicker in ur bike unlike mine. when my starter relay went kaput i was fed up push startig my bike again and again.

Thanks Saurabh, yes I have kick start, but did not have to run without battery, because had to replace the battery itself
It was the stock battery (Amco) that came with the bike, it lasted nearly 5 years, couldn't believe!
Searched for Amco 7 Ah, but no one had it in stock, also it is difficult to source. So went for SF SONIC, Rs. 1050/-
(Felt Exide to be costly at Rs. 1300-1400)

Sure i did take some poor quality snaps during the process...i will see if i can put together something like a tutorial ...give me a day or two i first have to see what all the snaps i have .
Tools are cheap you wont need any costly stuff ...the manual says to Inspect and adjust the valves every 2000kms so tools will pay for themselves :P :

1)L - Socket wrench - get 19 mm socket or even a 19 inch T spanner will do i couldnt find one so got the wrench instead (Rs 200-250)

2)Allen key 10 size

3)1 rupee coin

4) Ring spanner size 10

5) Tappet adjusting tool - Rs 60

6) Two clean plastic trays - one for tools and one for the bike parts .

7) Feller gauge - less than Rs 150

I washed all the tools in soap water so not even a speck of dust falls into the engine and gave the bike a good water wash...only then i touched the head cover :P.


I remember someone telling me not to ride with out the battery as it will affect the coil or some other part ...dont remember exactly .

It would have not taken much time, i adjust the tappet in 5 mins. flat, assembling and disassembling time is different.
Instead of TDC you can adjust the tappets by the following method.
1. Rotate the crank and see the inlet valve go down and then come up. After it has come full up and exhaust cam is coming near exhaust rocker, adjust the inlet valve clearance.
2. next rotate the crank and check that exhaust valve goes down and comes up. After it comes up, then check and adjust exhaust valves clearance.
3. While tightening, the thing is that insert the tappet adjusting tool through 10 no. spanner and hold the tappet screw with the wrench. while holding the tappet screw with tool, tighten the lock nut with 10 No. spanner. If you want i can show you a photo. If you cannot hold the tappet adjusting tool while tightening lock nut and it is turning, then hold the tappet adjusting tool by plier and tighten the lock nut. This will take care of the mis adjustment during lock nut tightening.
4. You are not feeling but your compression has increased. What happens is that splendor series engine have tappet clearance of 0.05 mm so usually they do not require feeler gauge, as there is a simple method of adjusting them,i.e the rocker vertical play is stopped by tightening tappet but side play is kept. This is best method and no feeler gauge is required. But unfortunately, those donkey mechanics use the same method in extreme engine while it has 0.08 mm and 0.12 mm play. So when they adjust by splendor method the tappets are tight and valves are not closing fully. In effect you are loosing compression. By adjusting to correct specs, your bike has restored compression.

See, i told you that try to learn everything yourself, never rely on those donkeys. You open anything you want and i am there to help you in any problem. Since, it becomes late here replying, if you want i will PM you my phone number and you can call me if any urgent query is there.
Also no problem in turning magnet clockwise.

Never run hunk/extreme without battery as they have DC ignition and CDI runs on battery. If there is no battery then voltage spikes will damage the CDI. Never run the new bikes as without battery. Even try to start your hunk without battery it will take innumerable kicks to start.

Usually, when we have problem in carburettor TPS, then we change it. But it needs to be initialized. In my next post i will post how to initialize a new TPS when installed on carburettor.

Now the new Hero Extreme comes with Kick start. dont know y they remove kick start in the last Hero Honda Cbz Extreme .

I too had the same doubt, the battery was getting really weak, and the self start was not at all working. As Sibun said, if I leave the bike idle for a week and try to start, it was not getting started for a few kicks even with choke, this was may be due to weak battery.

Anyways got it changed to SF SONIC, the bike fires to life with a slight touch of button
Also, I feel a slight increase in idling RPM.

Sibun bro, plz post the pic for xtream tappet adjustment. Stunner also needs similar clearances

Read sibun's post once again.He has covered everything.

One small Tip from my side- Get a feeler gauge which has the option of separating each individual blades/leaves. Now lubricate the required blade with engine oil and slide between the tappet and valve.
Use a 10mm ring spanner then use a tappet tool or a needle nose pliers to turn the tappet adjuster while the blade is still in between the tappet and valve to get the best results.

To check the clearance-What you are looking is some resistance/drag when you try to slide the blade.
To make sure the clearance is correct,next no.blade should not be able to fit or should slide with great difficulty while the lower no. blade should slide with least resistance. Then you only can tell that the clearance is correct.

Now put back the required blade and then tighten the lock nut whilst the tappet tool/pliers is in the same position,even the slight deviation of the adjuster will change the clearance.
Most beginners commit mistake here -It looks like the tappet adjustment doesn't turn while tightening the lock nut but it does move hence it is important to hold the adjuster while tightening the lock nut.
After adjusting both the valves,rotate the engine two cycles and then check it again to make sure everything is good.

It takes some time if you are doing it for the first time.

Kya yaar....its such a easy job,
You have no fear when I am here, just give me a call and I will be there.
And u know that i've lots of tools, so there is no problem.
Just get a feeler gauge first.

You need
Exhaust valve: 0.12mm.
Intake valve: 0.08mm.

Everything you need to know is here!!
How-to: Check and adjust valve clearances on the CBF125 | CBF125 Rider

Here is Honda common service manual found just now,... hope may give u some more information.

well, I have brushed up all the theory part of that TDC method. but What sibun said was little different so I asked for pics.. and What I wanted to see is valves moving up & down in points:

1. Rotate the crank and see the inlet valve go down and then come up. After it has come full up and exhaust cam is coming near exhaust rocker, adjust the inlet valve clearance.
2. next rotate the crank and check that exhaust valve goes down and comes up. After it comes up, then check and adjust exhaust valves clearance.

sorry if I'm asking for too much. Its the first time I'm touching a 4 stroke engine!!

To the point, he mean to say, valves should be completely closed before adjusting tappet.
You didn't really have to confuse in that. You just only need to be sure that piston is at TDC. When piston is at TDC both valves are closed.
When u align the T mark. Check the tappets clearance with your hands, if u see both tappets are tight, rotate the crank to re-align the T mark and u will they are loose (because valves are now closed).
Now your piston is at TDC, and you can continue with your tappet adjustment.