Changed my headlight to 50/55 (Maruti OEM). Lighting has improved. It works well above 2.5-3K RPM.

P.S. : My auto DC conversion was rectified as i noticed there was a wire cut (Yellow wire,as told by SIBUN) and it was connected to DC supply. There is no change of RPM (symptom of load increase as pointed out by someone here ) when HL are turned ON. Now my only concern left about lighting is FOCUS. I once had an accident,collision with rear of a TATA 207,there were scratches in Front headlight plastic and it was broken from below. I will change it someday but the problem is it caused a bend in the inside rodes that holds the front part and thats why my headlight is not fitting as it used to be earlier. Resulting in a lower reach. Dont know if i will be ever able to get that long reach of my headlight .

Yes last night and today early morning I tested it,
lighting increased, both high and low beam.
but switching from low to high beam takes about 300ms and its complete dark in that time, flash also have this delay.


change from 35 to 60W affects battery???
head lights works on alternator than battery??

Headlight works on Altenators. but can always change this if u want to,but not with a tiny 4Ah battery whcih we have in our rides. Better go for 7Ah

if head light works on alternator, then why do we need a better battery?
also the delay?

whats the avg life of our battery??

also clutch cable??
i used to go 300+ rides to rural area of kerala and tamil nadu, its 100100+km on odo should i keep a spare clutch cable during these rides??

As pinakiji has said go for checking the rear sprocket bearing. If possible go and stand on the head of mechanic at service center as the bike is still under warranty.

Yes, clutch play affects mileage as a tightened clutch will not allow free engagement of clutch and thus increasing clutch plate wear and also low mileage and performance. For extreme/hunk keep 5mm play at the yoke, i.e the gap between clutch yoke and clutch lever. In my joy i keep around 8 mm as my joy gears are butter smooth. But in extreme you have to keep 5 mm. Use a ruler and measure the free play between yoke and clutch lever by pressing and checking the free play. Adjust until you get 5 mm.

0W 40 has never been recommended in any bikes.
Why 0W 40 is never recommended in bikes?
This is what i read in an interview by shell engineers when talking on lubricants for ducati moto gp bikes.
In cars the engine oil and gear oil are different. So the engine oil lubricates the engine only. So 0W grade is used. But in bikes the gears use the same oil as engine oil. For gears the thicker oil is recommended. But for engines a lighter oil is recommended, so a compromise is reached by using 10W 40 which provides adequate protection to gear box and also easy for engine to circulate.By using 0W 40 you are lubricating the engines but the gears and bearings will squeeze out the oil and thus they will not be lubricated properly. So by using 0W 40, your gearbox will be gone before you even change the bore kit.
Yes, you are running lean. But from the plug it is clear that you are previously running too rich. See the sooty carbon. I am sure your combustion chamber to be full of sooty carbon. What you do is richen the mixture by 0.25 turn i.e. now it is at 1.6 so make it 1.85-1.90. This will sort out all problem. An engine when tuned right will always hiccup before warming up. It is because when engine is cold fuel doesn't atomize properly and thus cannot fire properly. That is the reason why choke is provided. Once the engine warms up then no problem as fuel will atomize properly. If for cold starts you richen the mixture then your bike will run super rich and will cause many problems like excess carbon deposits,spark plug fouling and sorting, dull throttle response and many other problem.From my experience of tuning for almost 6 years if an engine is running rich and you lean the mixture then it will show hiccups and feel like running out of fuel. After 3-4 days every thing is sorted out. It is because the rich mixture would have cause carbon in combustion chamber,plug,exhaust valve, silencer, e.t.c. By running lean for some days, the carbon gets burnt out and your engine will feel free. Just set the tuning to 1.85-1.90 and check. Previously you were running too rich.
Regarding your pistons it is normal and nothing to worry, one piston will push out before other and the pads stops the piston movement and thus other piston pushes out and both piston press the pad. I told something and you did something. I didn't tell you to open caliper pistons. Instead i told you to open master cylinder piston(located near handle bar). The master cylinder piston is responsible for creating pressure and not the caliper pistons.

As i told you yellow wire was cut and nothing to worry. There is nothing that can be solved. Everything has a solution. For that rod go to service center and tell them to change the headlight mounting brackets or what they call headlight stand. It will cost about Rs.220. By changing it your headlight will get the right support and also long reach. Just ask for headlight stands in service center and you will get it.

Battery life depends on many factors and nothing that can be said how long it will work. I am using amaron battery in my joy and it has been running for 3 years and still is as good as new. For me three years is a running of 90k kms. If you are venturing out to rural areas, no need of keeping clutch cable as the cable takes up too much luggage space. A better alternative is to get a scooter(bajaj) clutch wire(inner wire) will cost about Rs.10 and also a lock nut(Rs.3). It will take almost negligible space and also you can store it in toolbox. when clutch cable snaps, just pull out the inner from outer and insert the scooter inner in the outer of the cable. then use lock nut never the engine and tighten it after adjusting the clutch freeplay. Let a mechanic show you first.
After you return change to OE cable.
The advantage is that:-
1. Takes of much less space(can store it in tool box)
2. Fits all bikes(Suppose you go with friends. And one of them snaps clutch cable. be it splendor, pulsar,cbz, karizma, or any bike a single wire is enough for any bike). This will work. Let me get a photo and post to make it clear.

i am currently using it the 0W-40 MOBIL1 oil, should i change it immediately to 10W-40 or after some few kilometers ???

Ok, I will adjust the clutch free play soon. I have adjusted the AFR again. I shall post a picture of the Spark Plug again tomorrow. Hope it's better this time. But the thing is, the hiccups earlier were not when the engine was cold, the engine would suddenly lose power at around 70kmph after the engine was hot itself.
And I misread your earlier post regarding the brakes. But I don't how what is the Master Cylinder Piston now. Either way, I washed the insides of the caliper with petrol. Is that ok? The bite has come back to normal now. And yes, I am very happy with the brakes now.


I suggest you get the oil changed ASAP.

Run for 2.5k and then change it. No need of so much hurry.

Guys I did Chain Cleaning and lubricating it..

The shopkeeper suggested me castrol GL-4 can...

Well Gears have become smooth and chain noise is lower than before...

I have encountered a small problem here..after a run of 110km , my Pilot lamps went kaput...

Problem is both of them arent working , but rear lights are okay....What should i do now ....???

In case u decide to go for full/partial DC setup.

Can u explain it further plz. coz there is only 1 bulb in the front parking light while we have a LED cluster in the rear. I guess ur front parking bulb is kaput. To change it u need to open your front viser.


I have done some jugaads with help of a local mechanic. Earlier there was a HUGE gap between my digital meter and visor ,now its limited upto few mm,i guess light throw should rise. Lets wait for the night.

which one to choose

SHELL AX7 10W-40
MOTUL 5100 15W-50
or any other options ???

Go for the Shell oil. It's the right grade for our brakes.

are u using shell ???

iF THERE IS one bulb in parking lamp then , it has fused..

Can the fused bulb be changed locally....

I have only a truck repair shop nearby...hope he keeps bulbs too..

is it a 5W bulb??