I use Mobil1 10W-40 fully synthetic on my bike. I like the oil, I've had no issues with vibrations all the way till 90 odd kmph except for a little during the 50-60kmph phase. No overheating issues and the bike's temperature is well maintained. Of course the bike is smooth, I like to just cruise at around 49kmph as there as absolutely no vibrations during that time. Power delivery is smooth and there are no restricted spots as such. Go for it in my opinion. You can also try the Motul 300V oil which I will try next time.

You seem to get him wrong. He said 75 + for Rs.100/- petrol i.e. 1.4 litre, as kerala price of petrol is around Rs. 70 /- so he gets above 53 kms/ltr.

He not only changed the AFR but also adj the clutch where lot of energy was wasted by a tightly adj. clutch

Clutch should be adj. optimally so as to tranfer max. out put of engine to transmission or tires. Not too tight and not too loose.

wishing you a sucessfull tuning. and mind you not to keep foot on brake pedal while riding.and no rushing and sudden braking. keep the air filter clean . and you will get it.

Oh, by mileage of 75+, I thought his bike returned 75+kmpl, hence the wow! :P Yes, I did get it wrong.
And could you please elaborate on exactly how to adjust the clutch to ensure that power is transmitted with lesser loss? My clutch doesn't have much free play, so do I introduce more free play to ensure better transmission of power?
Yes, I don't keep my foot on the brake pedal, nor do I change speeds suddenly.
Also, I see that you live in Bangalore. If it isn't a problem, could I meet you someday for around half hour and you could tell me how I can tune my engine properly? I've read tutorials, but have never seemed to get it right unfortunately. If that isn't a problem that is.

Take out the entire rear sprocket carrier and check if the bearing inside there(sprocket carrier bearing) is clean and greased . Check the rubber blocks inside the wheel hub(cush drive rubbers) . With bike on mainstand, slack the chain to 1.5inch at the middle of the bottom run . Tighten rear axle nut while someone stomps on the rear brake pedal and holds it down like that . Also grease the chain a bit after oiling . After fitting rotate the rear wheel quickly by hand and try to isolate any noise .

Dear you are welcome , Presently I am in Kochin next week /may be tommorow
I will be coming back to Bangalore . You sent me your no. And I will call you .I live in Jalahalli east ,

Read your post no 6901 . Keep speeds of 55 to 65 kms for max mileage this is from my experience.

That is a lot of work to be done Pinaki da. Shall take it to the SVC to get these work done. But I doubt how much of all these will be actually done. I am stuck with limited tools at my disposal :'(

ohhh you are very lucky to get 75km/100rs petrol. i am getting only 55km/100rs.

@Sibun tuned the carb by 1/4th turn anti-clockwise...will post the snap after i ride for some time.

that grade mobil oil is for car only.

Please save your money on 300V...i have used that oil for more than 20K kms...its no longer VFM and it wont make your bore last forever like some think here...most shell out money for this 300V thinking it as a investment...i did it to too...my bike ran mostly on 300V only and the bore went bonkers in 35000 kms...i am not saying 300V is a bad oil ...just that if you stick to good SS oil and keep the drain interval at 2.5K you will get the same result more or less ...you will save a lot of money too in the process....heck you can even get a new bore kit installed for the money you save on 300V :P

the tools will cost less than Rs 500...one time investment...it sounds like its tough but its not...i thought like that too...but one time is all it took to make it easy...it took me 2 hrs to clean my chain and do a rear wheel service first..then it became easy .

I cant say for sure but i think by my estimate i am getting 66.19/100rs after following sibuns technique...i now give throttle so lightly you can not tell if i am twisting the throttle or not lol...and i keep the speed between 65km/hr -80km/hr.

Not at all . I wrote a list but the only real work involved is removal and refitting the rear wheel , Baas ! Take help of a local tyre-puncture fitting guy , no need to go to ASC for this 15min work . Tyre repair guys are extremely efficient in taking out and refitting wheels , they can unmount and refit a wheel in 60 secs flat . Only extra tool needed is a large flat wrench(I think a #24) to unbolt the sprocket carrier spool , he shall have that one too . Most of them are competent enough to check wheel rim bends & chain-sprocket alignment , center & adjust the brakes and adjust chain slack etc .

[First servicing queries]

Hi All,
The first servicing for my Hero Hunk is due next Friday.
Keeping in mind the ill ways service center distorts money from customers, can someone please advice:

>> 1. on the different aspects that need to be checked during the first servicing? I would like to make sure these points you mentioned are checked by the ASC.

>> 2. on the engine oil to use? HeroHunk Manual says recommended ((SAE 10W30 SJ Grade, JASO MA)). I do not intend to use the Hero recommended engine oil. I tried looking for the same grade oil in some petrol pumps (HPCL/IOCL) but there I am seeing 10W30 JASO MA2 to be available.
Is JASO MA and JASO MA2 same? Can I use JASO MA2 on my Hunk?

>> 3. Any recommendation on which engine oil suits Hunk the most (Gulf/Servo/Castrol etc)?
As 10W30 grade is near extinction, after surveying 10 lubricant dealers 10W30 is available with one.
I have come across the below so far:
. Gulf 10W30 JASOMA2 - Rs.270 - I heard Gulf performs better with Hunk? Truth or rumour?
. MOBIL 10W30 JASOMA - Rs.260 - How is MOBIL's performance with Hunk? Can I go for it?
Any other recommendations?

Please advise_Debaroon

Assuming you have done under 750km on odo..Also during servicing make sure

1.they use oil from the sealed bottle (golden in color )
not from the barrel oil dispenser...

2.If you are getting good mileage , Clearly tell them NOT TO TOUCH THE CARB.

3.Just tell them any problems such as loose bolt or oil leaks..

Buddy under warranty we need to stick to HH 10W30.. (if you use another oil and they know about it your warranty will get void..)

Also 10W30 is recommended till 5K kms. Also When did 10W30 neared extinction ???

AFAIK 10W30 , 10W40 is best suited oil for our bikes..After 5K you may switch to Semi synthetic grade oils.

Awesome. Thank you very much. I PMed my number to you.
Your house is a little far from mine, 19km. :P But it's worth the traveling. . I just need to know how to clean and tune the carburetor.

1. No aspects to be checked as such, but as RohIIT mentioned, if the mileage is good, tell them not to touch the carburetor. And yes, that the oil is from a sealed bottle. Try staying with the bike as it gets serviced. You can try Om Bikes, off Mysore Road, maybe far, but they do the job well from what I've heard. Please avoid Prakash Motors, they're only fit to screw up the bike!

2. You will have to make the mandatory engine oil change at the service center to keep your warranty intact. I'm not sure about the JASO and SAE stuff though. I'm sure you can change the oil immediately after the service with an oil of your choice, I doubt the service center guys will know the difference anyway. But, better safe than sorry!

3. Gulf is widely used around this thread. So you could give it a try.

Also, you've ridden some real legends! The Hunk must feel slightly underwhelming after a Yezdi I am sure.

Also, I was trying the clean the pistons in the front brake today, I had to get it out to clean it of course. So when I removed the pads and pumped the brakes to get the pistons out, only one was advancing! The other stayed put. O.o
I'm sure this isn't normal for a dual piston caliper, or is it?
I again changed the brake fluid but somehow dropped some on the mudguard and I lost some paint. So to everyone, please be careful with brake fluid! Changed the brake fluid on both, front and rear and the braking response as improved, but it doesn't really stop as such. It's lost bite. I'll need to spray a little petrol on the brake pads tomorrow I guess.

I have used Castrol/Mobil/Gulf etc etc, each one has some adv. or problem, I can't recall and list it here, One thing I would say is stick to Original Hero Oil 10W30 or you may choose Honda Oil which is now with same specs i.e. 10W30....I heard that there are lot of duplicate oils going around, make sure you change/buy oil only at Hero/Honda shop with bill...and see for safety features on bottle (logo/stickers/tamper proofed seal etc etc)...hope this helps

Bought Philips premium H4 60/55w bulb,(right side in pics)
The store keeper said, it will give less light that 35/35(halonix) stock bulb, but 35/35 of philips will give more light.
Please spread some info here.


By the way sorry for the confusion made by mileage 75 per 100rs petrol,

It looks like you've already installed it? If so, what are the results? I mainly changed to DC because I always felt I needed more light when taking turns on the dark highways.


Also, Sibun, I turned my AFR screw to 1.6 turns. It felt like it lost power somewhere above 70kmph. There seemed to be a flat spot of sorts, the bike hiccuped as if it had run out of fuel. Also, when the engine is not warm enough, opening throttle too fast caused the engine to switch off. I am posting pictures of the spark plug for your reference. The spark plug looks like it's running a little lean, am I right?

Also, could someone please tell me if something is wrong with my front brake's pistons please?