Xenons are the same 35/35. And yes, these can run on AC as well as they run on DC. So can be run without any wiring changes. And yes, 48 for the chain guard. If you manage to get it before I do, please do post a pic here after fixing.

I've read some where that Hunk is short geared than Xtreme for city commuting which takes a toll on the top speed by 3-5kmph ?
Can some one confirm please?

The CBZ Owners can post the Gear Ratios from their Owners Manual here(For the Hunk, it's on page 3)

1st: 3.0769(40/13)
2nd: 1.7895(34/19)
3rd: 1.3043(30/23)
4th: 1.0909(24/22)
5th: 0.9375(30/32)

Now we'll know for sure.

BTW, could someone tell me if I am running lean or rich? From the looks of it, I seem to be running too lean. Any idea how many turns I need to give the air fuel screw?

The gear ratios are same.
You are running slightly lean.
Do the process as i am telling for best tuning:-
1. Warm up the engine by 10 min riding.
2. Then adjust the idling from idling screw to about 2000-2200 rpm and look at the tachometer.
3. Now adjust the air-fuel mixture screw such that the rpm rises. It may be in clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. See the tachometer and rotate the screw in the direction where the rpm is rising. See where the rpm is at highest by looking at the tachometer. For example if the idling after adjusting the mixture screw is at 3000 rpm and further turning the screw in any direction be it clockwise or anticlockwise is decreasing the rpm then leave it at the position where it is showing the highest and decrease the idling by idling screw to 1100 rpm.
The 3000 rpm is an example it can be any rpm but start from 2000 rpm.
Do this process and post the result.
Remember to set the mixture screw where the idling is highest and in tachometer equipped bikes it is quite easy.
The theory behind it is that at optimum ratio engine produces maximum power so the idling is highest and at lean or rich mixture the engine looses power.

You cross checked this with gear ratios in your Xtreme's manual?
I did read this in this forum posted by an FM, he might be wrong, though googling it didn't give me any result showing the ratios are different. I think we can conclude the gear ratios are same.
So may be the kerb weight of first generation Hunk resulted in its decreased top end.
(If I'm not wrong, the new generation CBZ is heavier than Hunk)

Guys,

Today I saw a brand new RED Xtreme in my office parking bay, I just parked my bike beside it to watch it .
The RED is damn hot and the paint quality also at its best ! Overall build quality looks awesome, now I know why there is increased number of new XTremes on road compared to other 150's and Hunk !

What is the make of the front disc of the new Xtreme, I couldn't make out the name, but I'm sure it is not the same as of old one, atleast in design.

Regarding point 2. when we are increasing the idling to 2000-2200 RPM, aren't we looking at the on board tachometer already to increase the same?

point 3. > From what you've written, I made out that irrespective of whether I turn the AFR screw clockwise/anticlockwise (after reaching the max RPM setting), further increase won't come even if I rotate the screw in the same direction which I did to increase it to max? Did I get that correct sir?

Another question> my bike has just done 1000kms (2.5 months since I purchased it). Should I tinker with the AFR/tuning settings or leave it to the service guys during periodical servicing?

Guys, I found a peculiar thing with my Hunk yesterday. In fact I have been observing it since quite a few days. In the morning when I start my bike (cold start), it cranks up to life in just a single press. However, it seemed to me that the idling RPM was too low and the engine would stop anytime, so I turned on the choke. Now, after turning on the choke, the engine simply turned off! I had thought otherwise that turning on the choke would make it idle at a higher RPM.

Then began my experiments. I find that cold starts (without choke) are fine, engine does not turn off, idles slightly low (sound is v less) but does not shut off. I checked this by idling the bike for 5-10 mins also. But as soon as I try the choke, the engine sputters and shuts off. I know this is not much of a problem but why this kolaveri di?

Satson, are you talking about THIS front disk? The one with the fibre disc? And do we have name(s) written on the disk? R u sure? Brand names are written on the brakes I guess. Like in my case, the rear brakes are of Nissin make and the front brakes do not carry any name.

@ SatSon

Only the disk rotor has changed I guess. The caliper and master cylinder are still the same. Atleast the disk diameter has not changed. ( aint sure, just guess). So its probably just a visual change. (But I do not understand why )

@ Blogging Wheels

Its pretty normal. A cold engine in idling will shut off if choked. If you have to give the choke, either start the engine with choke ON, or after starting and idling a few seconds, just open the throttle a bit and engage the choke so that the engine keeps running.
Keep in mind that choke is to be used only if it is necessary. If it can start otherwise, forget about choking.

Yes you are right. The Afr screw should be at that position where there will be no further increase in rpm. At that position even if you rotate at any direction the rpm will decrease but only at that position the rpm will be highest. If your bike is only 1000 km then do not adjust the AFR screw and the company has tuned it from factory. Regarding white plug modern engines are designed to run lean and thus they do not create any problem. Let it remain at that tune and after some km you will see that the plug will automatically turn brick red(the sign of ideal setting).Please do not touch the carburettor.
The front disk is of TATA YUKATA make. The fault is not with the disc but with the pad. The new brake shoe/pads that come with hero bikes are asbestos free. The advantage is long lasting but poor braking. You can change the front pads to KBX/ANL(Rs. 140/Rs.179) brand which are asbestos and softer than OE and see how the brake bites. And those with drum brakes at rear use the asbestos model of splendor front drum shoe (Rs.116) instead of asbestos free model(Rs.220) and see the braking of rear drum. Even in brake shoe you can use ANL or ASK shoes of splendor and they perform much better than original.
Do the above changes and see the difference in braking. You will be surprised by furious bite of brakes.

@BloggingWheels
Yes exactly, the same front disc. And the disc dia is not changed its the same 240mm.
As Sibun mentioned, my disc rotor is also Yukata make. I think Hero Honda has been using it for quite a while since Karizma, though Karizma has larger dia discs. But this time may be they just changed the rotor design with Xtreme.

I think changing the disc pad will improve the braking as Sibun suggested, recently another FM also suggested changing them to FZ's. Anyone here have tried with these mods?
The Splendor front drum brake is really good, I used to give sudden front brakes to get the feeling(atleast to me) of a CBZ/Pulsar front disc during my college days But the Splendor's rear brake sucks with small 110mm drum.
@Sibun - have you tried with Splendor shoes in your Hunk/Xtreme?

I never had felt this what BloggingWheels has mentioned. When I start the idle would be too low that it'll shut off, sometimes I'll use the choke then it'll increase, sometime slight increase in throtlte will do. Anyways, nothing to worry BloggingWheels.

@ sibun

Where do we get KBX / ANL disk pads..? I am desperate to have better brakes. Could you provide more insight on how to source them..?

Also, these pads (KBX/ANL) costs < Rs. 200 and FZ's ones cost just Rs. 150. Then how come ours cost near 500..?

The OE pad cost Rs.347 and they cost so much because they are asbestos free. The FZ ones are of kbx and so they cost less.
You can get these pads at any big retailer of spares at your place. Tomorrow i will post the part number and the bikes which they share.
Regarding the brake shoes my fathers new splendor has those Rs. 220 brakes shoes as given by company and they suck but my joy has ASK brake shoes of Rs. 90 (asbestos) model and they bite furiously. Splendor front drum is 130 mm but Joy front drum is 110 mm and Joy weighs 118 kg and splendor 107 kg but still my bike stop quite short distance. Regarding the shoe in cbz since mine is new (3000 km) i have not tested but in my friends extreme we are using those old model shoes and brake bites as it is disc. And also we are using KBX pads in my friends extreme. These new non asbestos shoes/pads are long lasting but they usually destroy the disc and drums also quickly. So instead use softer pads and change the pads frequently. Remember the rear is alloy and if the drum is worn out then you have to change the whole wheel unlike spoke wheel where you can change drum only.

Thanx a ton pal..
I live in a relatively small town and its difficult to find big spare parts dealers. So the best thing I can do is try and fit OEM parts from other bikes. Can FZ pads be fitted..? ( Wont be a direct fit, I know )
Or is it possible to get them online..?

Regarding rear ones, I recently changed them coz the older ones got overheated and became too hard. Replaced with 220 rs ones and as of now, they are doing just fine.