Well, I wasn't patient enough to wait for someone to reply. So decided to have a few trial and error runs. I used to turn the AFR screw half rotation and go for a ride and then check on the spark plug. Kept doing this till I was satisfied with the colour of the spark plug. Now I seem to be doing just fine.

Ummm, you need to use the choke BEFORE you start the bike. Or as suggested earlier, atleast after accelerating a bit. In any other circumstance, the bike WILL switch off.

Are these straight fits for the front disk of the Hunk? I really would not want to become:
"Dhobi ka khutta na ghar ka na ghat ka" type.

That is the interesting part with my bike. The bike cold starts without choke. But when I use choke before starting it, it takes 3-4 cranks WITH a little acceleration to start it! And after 3-4 secs of a slight twisted accelerator, the idling becomes stable.

What do you say about that?

BTW do the rear NISSIN brakes on the Hunk have asbestos pads? Coz the bite is superb in the rear. Any insights?

For the first bit, I'm kinda stumped. But my bike's idling is not consistent. Keeps varying by around +/-500RPM. Any idea why?

Also, the second bit, you seemed to have read my mind. I have the EXACT same question.

yesterday in my campus road, i was riding below 35kmph, suddenl a kid from a crowed jumped in to the road, i applied only the rear brake, my hand some how didn't reached the front brake lever. but no use, then i saved that kid by sudden turning. really panic situation

my point is cbz rear brakes are too poor,
me too wish to change to asbestos brake pads if possible. are they direct fit?

During morning cold starts my bike's idling would be around 1000 rpm, then after 5 mins of ride it becomes 1400-1500(to which I've set it). But even at that point it'll be swinging between 1400-1500, which is normal I guess.
@Ashwin
the +/-500 rpm difference with your bike is like I mentioned? i.e during cold and hot conditions, if so I believe it is normal.

@Bloggingwheels
AFAIK, during cold starts what you have mentioned is quite normal.

Your braking technique is wrong. You should hold your front brakes for an emergency stop. Hitting only the rear brakes will only cause a lockup and a long skid which barely facilitates slowing down sufficiently enough. Practice "Staged Braking" where you gently increase the pressure on the front brake enough to stop on time also enough to not cause a lockup and eventually a spill. Also, try not holding the clutch while braking, if you notice, letting go of the clutch causes you to slow down that fraction more.

During single riding, the front brake is much more effective than the rear because a majority of the weight of the bike shifts to the front. That expains why using the front brake is more effective. Whereas with a pillion on, the rear brake also sharpens up because the additional load ensures the tyres stick to the ground and not lift up even slightly. Ride safe.

If you have the same rear disk assy. as the Hunk, you can try the Rear Pads of the ZMR. Cost a bomb(1k+), but bites exceptionally well.

I don't my situation think it's normal. It used to never hover around before. It used to constant with a change of around 100RPM. But now, it seems to vary too much. Or maybe I'm just paranoid.

+/-500 is a range of 1000RPM! So my bike sometimes hovers between 1500 and close to 700 odd RPM. That is strange right?


Secondly, with the choke on, a rich mixture is sent to be burnt, how can it require more cranks to start the bike? Shouldn't it theoretically need fewer cranks to start a cold engine with a rich mixture than with an optimum mixture?

39-40 kmpl when doing an average 70+ kmph (65-85), highway, solo, with occasional city traffic.
Is this fair..?

Under cold condition or after rest for greater than 8 hours, a Fuel efficient and lean set engine needs a little bit of choke to start,since the available air/petrol vapour ,inside engine is not enough to start. But when the engine is hot or has some AF charge left inside, applying choke fully will flood the chamber leading to engine switching off...In such cases applying slight amount of choke,moderately,will help..if at all it is needed.
Regarding varying RPM.....If the idle RPM varies by more than 200 revs.,when engine is hot, then suspect air leak in inlet due to loose fitting of air hose to carburetor, or holes in it..Otherwise it also indicates too lean a setting and adjusting the AFR screw by Half turn ANTI CLOCKWISE will reduce this .

if you r bike has done about 40-50000 kms / 2-3 ys old, the avg is fine.

but having said the above, average is dependent on how you ride rather than what you ride :P

if you dont change the throttle much, you might get 50 kmph and with constant changes in throttle, it can easily breach south of the 35 mark.

I am currently getting 40 kmpl on highways (constant throttle changes). and if i am riding smoothly, i often cross the 50 kmpl mark.
during offroading, i have even got 25 kmpl once.
just to highlight the engine condition, my bike is 1 lac+ kms old and is asking for a block replacement :P

My bike is just 12k and 1.2 yrs old.
And yea, I change the throttle a lot. Infact, I never keep it at one point. Keeps twisting - up or down.
So my bike is healthy, huh..?

Aren't you supposed to keep varying the throttle only during your run in. Post that, to maintain a healthy engine speeds should be more or less constant whether high/low. Of 3 bikes (including a scooter - Honda Eterno!) I have seen that the engine performs best if we don't stress it much and that includes gentle twisting the throttle.
I have followed it till day and have never suffered from mileage issues and neither issues of speed and performance! I have made it as a thumb rule now.

Sir, regarding the calibration of analog tachometers on the Hunk/Xtreme, the least count is 250 revs. That is there are 4 graduations between a 1000 RPM. therefore +/- 250 RPM is normal I guess. My bike has done just 1100kms. And it idles at 1000 +250 RPM (between 1000 - 1250 RPM) during cold starts. And idles at 1250 +/-150 RPM when the engine has run for around 10-15 mins. This is quite normal as far as I understand? I have no issues with mileage/power. Therefore what you mentioned for the +/- 200 RPM 'problem', does not seem to be affecting my engine much. Am I right?

@psr: One more thing sir, regarding what you wrote about the functioning of the choke, the reason of my 'apparent' interesting choke working became quite clear. A valid deduction indeed!
My engine easily 'rests' for more than 8 hours; acc to what you've written - I guess, the engine is still hot?
The a more valid reason seems to be that the AF charge is still present in the combustion chamber? Are these engine designs such that it keeps some AF charge even after shutting off? Or is it more with new bikes and not present in older bikes? I am 'inspired' to learn these intricate details about bikes. Your insightful informative posts seem to have made me greedy for some more info!
Thanks

Bingo! The spark plug indicated a slightly lean mixture. Half a turn and it seems to have improved. A little bit more of fine tuning is required tomorrow I guess. Thank you!