I didn't say anything about the rear disc. The NISSIN are the best ones and also the rear disc needn't have so much bite as present in the NISSIN
caliper. Of course you can use ASK,ANL, KBX pads for rear which are available for that model if you are short on cash and your pads require urgent replacement. The bite willn't differ, it will remain same but it will last for only 8-10 k kms. However seeing the cost you can buy 10 pads for the cost of one nissin pads.
I am telling about the front pads, and you can change the pads to above mentioned brands or go for karizma front calliper with nissin pads.
I am not sure and today i will ask about it to my retailer friend and confirm. Why are you so worried. Go to any descent spares shop and ask them to give extreme/unicorn pads of different brands. I am sure they will give you ANL or ASK as they are most popular in brake pads and shoes and OE supplier to all two wheeler companies. Just ask them not to give original and give some other brand.

Hello People,

I have two queries please. Is it possible for a CBZ xtreme to get engine trouble after 12000 kilometres? and Do I lose the warranty if I lose my service manual? All my previous services were done on time but The showroom has no records and my service manual is also lost. On top of that my bike is giving making some engine noise. The showroom mechanic said that it might be the head or block piston and is giving me the jitters. Please advise. Thank you.

Went to a spares shop (22kms away ) and asked for unicorn brake pads. They had KBX pads ( which is from Bosch) and it was a direct fit. Rs. 145/-
The bite is quite sharp, although not upto my expectation. May be I expected a little too much
Initial bite is great actually. And overall, may be 50% more bite than stock ones

Somehow, it gives a kinda rubbing sound upon application. Is this normal..?

It actually depends on the driving style some time, there is no limit for when engine will start troubling you, It could happen at after 500km also and to get the warranty you need to done all free/paid service on time from a authorized service center with all recmended part changed as suggested and mentioned on the manual after a certain interval, they will need all bills copy of your service done as proof for warranty process.

What if i never change engine oil @ SVC other than those are mandatory??

For the third time the bike lost compression today .

For those who are not aware my bike earlier lost compression 2 times...the first time the head mech just reseated the valves and it lost compression again in just 2 months .

The second time the head mech told me that if i get the valves replaced it will solve the problem as the new valves will have much longer life ...so i agreed and replace the valve....this time it ran fine for 3 months .

Today when i was going to the next village again the bike stopped and the kicker had no compression....so push started the bike in second gear and bike started ...after push starting the compression seems to have become normal.... revved the bike to 5K and the bike emits no smoke .

this is the valve that was replaced :








what is wrong with my bike ? why is it losing compression even after the valve replacement ?

yesterday i was climbing on 5th gear, speed was <60

in the middle, it slipped to 4th gear.

its the second time i am experiencing slip while climbing.

is clutch the culprit?

once i adjusted the clutch and go a heavy vibrating engine, how to adjust clutch?

From the picture you have posted, the inlet valve has sticky gummy deposit, which clearly indicates that petrol is adulterated. Please change to a good bunk as the inlet valve shows that the petrol is adulterated.
The exhaust valve shows you are running rich. The exhaust valve should be brick red in color for optimum tuning. However i may be wrong as adulterated petrol will also cause blackening of exhaust valve. Please switch to good pump and never run the engine rich. Always try to attain optimum tuning. Rich mixture causes heavy carbon deposits and after sometime loss in compression.

good that you have posted the pic or your valves. there could be various reasons for the problem. however, we can proceed with the easiest and the most common to the rare ones.

1. buddy, is you bike making tappet noises? if not, try getting the tappets loose and see if this problem reappears. my bike for instance, has this problem. if the tappets are not making noise, the bike sometimes looses compression. especially on cold days.
   
2. you could also be facing the problem of vapour lock!
3. Also, a busted carb slide could also be the culprit for this. basically, if the carb slide is busted, the engine floods when its shut and when you start, it takes time for the fuel vapours to subside. this can also result in the feeling of a compression loss.

Infact, i never knew about this untill someone else stated this problem here and Psr replied and then i realised whats wrong.

Put a pm to him for details or maybe just pm him to reply here so that we can all learn

In this thread, i had similar problems of compression loss earlier but my valves did not seem this bad.
the valve has carbon all over it which is easy to explain for exhaust valve but on the inlet side!
Please provide some additional data so that we can troubleshoot faster.

1. how many kilometers has the bike run?
2. what steps did you take since the last time this problem surfaced?
3. In an unlikely event of the stall again, try being patient, wait for min of 20 mins or till half an hour and then try starting the engine.

edit: I just realised that the gummy deposit could also be oil that comes with the crank blowby

We have to evaluate the repeat problem in the light of what had been happening..
1. The problem repeats itself even with NEW Valves...so the Valves or it's seat may not be the problem.
2. This time after a push start the engine functions normally...meaning the Valves and seats are ok..
3. The color of both inlet and exhaust valves are far from satisfactory..Ideally ,like Sibun says the inlet should be clean and the exhaust should be tan(light brown) in color.but in your bike both are charcoal black...
You either overfill the engine oil, run with old oil by topping up and not changing it every 2,000 Kms, ....OR
You are getting BAD Petrol from a bad petrol bunk leading to varnish deposit and subsequent burning of the deposit.

Change your engine oil every 2 k kms,and ensure it is changed with new oil

Change your Petrol bunk to Company owned or one which gets lots of customers.

could a leaking valve seal also result in this?

A bit offtopic, do you have any video for differentiating between a busted block piston and busted timing chain?

Stem seal leak will actually lead to lubrication of upper cylinder and the spark plug will slowly become dark with burnt oil deposit,but valves will not stick..since there is a continuous oil trickling through the stems lubricating it.If on the other hand the petrol filled in tank is old,it will have Varnish formation and it's property would be far from a good Petrol..The old petrol burns with yellowish flame and with soot.This over a period of time can cause the problem of sticky valve.
I have no video as per you request.....still A busted block and piston leads to poor compression, performance and FE...ofcourse it will also have noise commensurate with the level of damage.
The first symptom of bad timing chain is the chain rattling sound like the Anklet jingling sound,and when you try to accelerate ,with load the engine will have knocking....

Well, whats happening on my bike is that when the engine is hot / warm, it runs without a noise (minor tappet noise is there).
but if i start from a cold engine (morning or even in evenings at arround 6) there is a distinct metallic hammering noise from the engine. it is very much similar to loose tappet noise. since i have never heard the noise of a busted piston earlier hence i am not sure if its the piston busted.

the reason why i think its the timing chain is that the last time when i opened up the engine to fix a minor leak, i ended up damaging the timing chain guides. i got it replaced but then ended up damaging the chain. all because of makeshift tools. Immediately after the attempt, these problems have started.

btw, since the engine has already done 115000 kms already at a fairly spiritted use, i am inclined to think that the piston could be the culprit. however, just before the above attempt of repairs, i also had done a 1950 kms ride in 2 days and mot of the kms were at 80kmph + speeds. (pune -bhopal - sagor and back). after the ride, the bike had refused to start for two days and then due to some reasons, it started fine on the third day. it was dignosed that the carb slide was gone (courtesy the K&N). later i also found that teh block has some dark patches on it. hence my concern about the block.

right now except for the noise when the engine is cold, and the high rate of oil loss, nothing is wrong. the negine is reliable and the bike touches the top speed as it is expected from a 150 cc bike. also, it seems to keep up in term in acceleration with other bikes.

I do not intend to make this bike faster cosi believe thats this is about the limit of my capabilities but i do want a bike which allows me to sleep peacefully :P

I presume that you had not changed the bore and piston kit till now and done 1,15,000 Kms on it...if it is so, then definitely you need to change both as a unit.From what you are saying it seems like the gap between the bore and piston had increased beyond service limits, leading to loose rings and piston inside the bore.When the bike warms up, due to thermal expansion,the gap becomes marginally less leading to reduction of noise.

Thank you buddy, I had bought this bike from someone who had used it for 12 months. I thought a Hero Honda CBZ used for a year will have no problems. I guess I was wrong. On top of that I get no warranty. Ok, No Issues. But I will sure as hell never ever buy a Hero Honda(Hero Motocorp) bike again. I am disappointed with the service and the treatment given by the staff. Thank you people for your help.