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@ All
Honda mineral 10W30 has done just over 500 kms and its showing the true colour. Did a 50 km highway ride (70-80 kmph) at not-s0-low ambient temp.
And it was hell in my engine Vibration was so bad that I couldnt keep my feet on the pegs.
MORAL : It cant handle the heat even at moderate ambient temp. Its fantastic in winter, horrible in summer.

Brakes it is then . Overheating can damage or even warp the wheel , but that depends on the extent and duration of the heat of course . i.e possible but unlikely .
Are your brake shoes new ? If so, have the wheel dismounted and give the brake shoe surface and the drum a good rubdown with sandpaper and dust off with air/wipe off with clean dry cloth (don't blow or inhale that dust, it's carcinogen) . At the same time take out the brake cam and clean it good , good time to clean the backing plate etc too . Put a very very thin layer of grease(little bit only) on the cam and pivot/pivot post refit everything . Check if brake springs are ok(better replace those cheap springs) . Check that the cam is operating freely and returning in a snap by the action of the springs alone i.e not getting stuck at all . No hesitation allowed .
Be careful not to contaminate the brake shoe & drum surface with anything oily etc . For this work you need not visit service , any local tyre repair guy can remove wheel and refit plenty fine . You can do the cleaning , sanding and little grease yourself . I do this kind of service on the brakes once a year before monsoon . Brakes are lifesavers .

It is normal for cast wheels to conduct the heat away from the brake drum & wheel hub and get warm(unlike wire-spokes wheel) . It is also normal for new brake shoes to rub the brake drum a bit because of normal manufacturing imperfections and then settle down in a coupla hundred kms or so . So it gets hot during those initial kms .
But not to the extent you are experiencing . My guess is that your brake cam is not returning to fully disengaged position quickly enough . Also make sure you are not acquiring that habit of riding the brake pedal(and the brake pedal arrangement is free too) - though I know you are very conscious rider ... sometimes that habit creeps in quite inadvertently .

Please don’t come to a conclusion so earlier. Words from the experts and experienced persons like you will be taken in the verbal meaning itself by new bikers. Heating of alloy is common in all bikes with alloy wheels. It was once discussed in the GS thread and I have checked the wheel of a number of bikes.
The heat on the tire of a bike ridden for 50 or more kms continuously is more than the heat on the hub of the wheel at that time. And the heat felt then at the outer – near the tire – portion of the alloy is more than the portion near the hub. But surely the heat generated from braking has its own role in this phenomenon.
It is true that this heat was negligible when I filled nitrogen in the tire.
Many of us are using their bikes for daily long trips and a few have done saddle sores on their bikes. Nobody has complained about warping of tire due to this heat. So, just ignore it. The mechanics have nothing to do here.
And the cold hub after his 4 kms riding proves that the brake pad is not always in contact with the hub while riding.

Thanks. Will try changing the valve.



Thats exactly what I did and it works!

@ All
Honda mineral 10W30 has done just over 500 kms and its showing the true colour. Did a 50 km highway ride (70-80 kmph) at not-s0-low ambient temp.
And it was hell in my engine Vibration was so bad that I couldnt keep my feet on the pegs.
MORAL : It cant handle the heat even at moderate ambient temp. Its fantastic in winter, horrible in summer.

You mean the 4 long screws standing on the crank case, on which the bore/head are fitted?
They do not give up so easily. From the pic I feel this to be a gasket problem. Please, ask the mechanic to double check.

Do not worry about alloy heating as it is normal. ASK brake shoe has more bite because of more friction so it heats up quick which is perfectly normal.
And from the pictures that you have posted it doesn't seems to leak from bore so only head needs to be opened. But i may be wrong as i haven't personally seen the bike. If you open the bore then ask them to fit the rings properly as new rings have already set.
One thing you can do which will not disturb rings setting is that ask the mechanic to slide the bore such that only a part of piston comes out, until the ends of rings. That is the rings shouldn't come out of bore. Only the piston should come out till the gudgeon pin. Remove the lock and push out the pin and remove the cylinder with the piston. After work is complete again insert the bore with piston and fit the piston pin and insert the bore. In this way the rings are not disturbed.

Thats why i stopped using mineral oils for good.

whats your ODO reading ?

What oil are you planning to use next ?

I thought it was my new bore that was causing the heating issue - i agree it does heat up a lot on the honda oil - sometimes i could even feel the heat in my feet slightly but the heat is not as bad as you explained - it feels just like a warm air thats it but if you cant even keep the feet on the pegs then something is seriously wrong - i mean i did 200km trip on honda oil but never it became so hot that i cant even keep my feet on the footpeg and i dont feel any vibration also .

You can look at gulf 10W 30 its a good option .

. Today was a bad day - i planned to go on a 500km trip but all my electricals failed at once - the RPM needle was jumping all over the place - the bike wouldnt start even after 10 kicks -no indicator/horn/headlight - started it only after giving full throttle - took it to SC and they are saying my UPS battery is only having 10V - they are charging it for 5 hrs then will call me to tell the status - till yesterday everything was fine - then how come the battery gone bonkers in one day ? maybe the mech put the wrong wire in the battery terminal as i had to remove the red wire to connect the UPS battery

Odo reads 15.7K
Thinking of switching to SS. Problem is sourcing one. I will need to ride 150 km in total

Hi guys!! i bought a new HH Hunk dual disk last week, Im very much new to this forum ,Please anyone can tell me what is the issue with my bike,which is getting clicking noise during 1000 to 2500 rpm in engine after heat up say like after approx 10km run .Please help me with a solution

Not sure about your problem , but do you hear the clicking noise when you are riding ? or do you hear the clicking noise when you have turned off the engine after a long ride ?

No sir, its only when the engine is hot & during low speed or at idle ,no sound after turn off

Something is moving with a clicking noise inside , noticeable at idle or at low speed

Since this is a metal part, I believe insurance will cover this. But there are some exclusions to this; you may check with the ASC guys, they will advise you regarding how you need to inform this to insurance guys for claiming it. Probably you'll have to write a story to present before them



Unicorn tank for OP's new CBZ? . If its a direct fit also, how the bike will look like !