i am not sure about the gear oild for yamaha RX , on the left side of the chain casing , there is a small rubber cap which allows you access the chain for lubrication without opening the entire case, (i am sure you would have noticed) , make sure the cap is tightly closed , sometimes dirt penetrates through this if its not closed or the cap is missing

Took my bike to SC to tune the carb and the mech removed some dirt from carb - and used a tacho to tune it just like sibuns carb tune guide -warmed up the engine and just before it started to drop the RPM he set it just like the guide.He also solved the crankase oil leaking problem - no more oil leak from that area .

Also today just before i took it to SC i drove the bike without applying brkae for 4kms and the rear alloy was cold when i touched it but as soon as i started using the rear brake in just 3 kkms the alloy became hot.

The mech confirmed i have installed the sprocket correctly and all the bearings and stuff are good - it just the rear brake thats causing the heating up issue - i dont mind the alloy heating up if that wont harm the bike in anyway as my rear brakes bite like disc brake and the braking is good - most of the time i dont even use the front just the rear is enough :P

But oil leakage still not stopped from this bore part :



The head mech says the 10 inch screw thread is gone in the crankcase and he needs to open the bore again to re do the thread - on the other side there is no oil leakage so one or two of the threads only needs to be done in lathe - for this they going to remove the bore and head - stuff some clean coth inside the crankase and over it they will place some cardboard so no metal filings go inside the engine during lathe work - will take only 15 mins he said - he also told me its safe to go on the 500kms trip as oil is leakage is very very small .

1. Why was the oil leaking in the first place ?

2. Why dont you use both brakes ? you know its recomended and safer to use both brakes right ?

3. If the alloys heat up , dont you think it will have a higher impact on your tyre wear and tear ?

Do not worry about alloy heating as it is normal. ASK brake shoe has more bite because of more friction so it heats up quick which is perfectly normal.
And from the pictures that you have posted it doesn't seems to leak from bore so only head needs to be opened. But i may be wrong as i haven't personally seen the bike. If you open the bore then ask them to fit the rings properly as new rings have already set.
One thing you can do which will not disturb rings setting is that ask the mechanic to slide the bore such that only a part of piston comes out, until the ends of rings. That is the rings shouldn't come out of bore. Only the piston should come out till the gudgeon pin. Remove the lock and push out the pin and remove the cylinder with the piston. After work is complete again insert the bore with piston and fit the piston pin and insert the bore. In this way the rings are not disturbed.

@sibun : will u plz elaborate BRAKE CENTERING process. i have replaced my rear brake shoes with ASK,still the bite is 20% as compared to front. and what about ur post regarding my performance issue ???

@ all
My bikes front tire (TL) is losing air. 5 psi loss in 24 hrs. I have no idea whats wrong. Tried smearing soap water over the tire but couldnt find any leak. What else could be the reason..?

@ sibun
Thanx a lot for the brake centering tip. It really works. Near 50% more bite and 50% less free play

@Saurabh
Its nothing man. Loosen the axle nut, make sure brake assy. is relieved, then refit with brake pedel fully depressed.
PS :- I did it along with a full brake cleaning and sanding. Hence the huge improvement.

i wouldn't be doing these 2 as my brake shoes are new but will definitely try this brake centering technique.

You mean the 4 long screws standing on the crank case, on which the bore/head are fitted?
They do not give up so easily. From the pic I feel this to be a gasket problem. Please, ask the mechanic to double check.

I've seen most mechanics doing this when re-fitting the rear wheel.
- Rotate the wheel with force
- apply rear brake immediately, and keep it depressed
- tighten the axle nut while still holding the brake pedal down

@Sibun / Sooraj
Correct me I'm wrong here.

If there is no leak then valve may be leaking...change it. If u still found the leak then recheck the tube again. If 5 psi is leaking in 24 hrs then u can imagine there is so so so less leak which would not be easy, clearly visible. Input more air, the more the pressure the more/faster air will leak. But first check the valve.

Brakes it is then . Overheating can damage or even warp the wheel , but that depends on the extent and duration of the heat of course . i.e possible but unlikely .
Are your brake shoes new ? If so, have the wheel dismounted and give the brake shoe surface and the drum a good rubdown with sandpaper and dust off with air/wipe off with clean dry cloth (don't blow or inhale that dust, it's carcinogen) . At the same time take out the brake cam and clean it good , good time to clean the backing plate etc too . Put a very very thin layer of grease(little bit only) on the cam and pivot/pivot post refit everything . Check if brake springs are ok(better replace those cheap springs) . Check that the cam is operating freely and returning in a snap by the action of the springs alone i.e not getting stuck at all . No hesitation allowed .
Be careful not to contaminate the brake shoe & drum surface with anything oily etc . For this work you need not visit service , any local tyre repair guy can remove wheel and refit plenty fine . You can do the cleaning , sanding and little grease yourself . I do this kind of service on the brakes once a year before monsoon . Brakes are lifesavers .

It is normal for cast wheels to conduct the heat away from the brake drum & wheel hub and get warm(unlike wire-spokes wheel) . It is also normal for new brake shoes to rub the brake drum a bit because of normal manufacturing imperfections and then settle down in a coupla hundred kms or so . So it gets hot during those initial kms .
But not to the extent you are experiencing . My guess is that your brake cam is not returning to fully disengaged position quickly enough . Also make sure you are not acquiring that habit of riding the brake pedal(and the brake pedal arrangement is free too) - though I know you are very conscious rider ... sometimes that habit creeps in quite inadvertently .

Please don’t come to a conclusion so earlier. Words from the experts and experienced persons like you will be taken in the verbal meaning itself by new bikers. Heating of alloy is common in all bikes with alloy wheels. It was once discussed in the GS thread and I have checked the wheel of a number of bikes.
The heat on the tire of a bike ridden for 50 or more kms continuously is more than the heat on the hub of the wheel at that time. And the heat felt then at the outer – near the tire – portion of the alloy is more than the portion near the hub. But surely the heat generated from braking has its own role in this phenomenon.
It is true that this heat was negligible when I filled nitrogen in the tire.
Many of us are using their bikes for daily long trips and a few have done saddle sores on their bikes. Nobody has complained about warping of tire due to this heat. So, just ignore it. The mechanics have nothing to do here.
And the cold hub after his 4 kms riding proves that the brake pad is not always in contact with the hub while riding.

Whats warping of tyre ? can someone explain ?

I think it is deformation due to heat.

oh ok. Yes nitrogen does make a difference here. tried it on my car , tires lasted longer and ride was a bit smooth compared to normal compressed air.

Even the tyre noise reduced significantly

Thanks. Will try changing the valve.

Thats exactly what I did and it works!

@ All
Honda mineral 10W30 has done just over 500 kms and its showing the true colour. Did a 50 km highway ride (70-80 kmph) at not-s0-low ambient temp.
And it was hell in my engine Vibration was so bad that I couldnt keep my feet on the pegs.
MORAL : It cant handle the heat even at moderate ambient temp. Its fantastic in winter, horrible in summer.