Wow nice...did your brake pads got replaced as well? My Front brake pads were replaced last week as they were worn out.

By the way, What does bike break-in mean? I read somewhere that Xtreme breaks in around 1200-1500KM. Do I notice a considerable change in the behaviour of the bike? I haven't seen any as such.

Brake-in or Sometimes referred as Run-in is the initial period for an equipment to get it fully prepared for effective long-run.u have to take utmost care of ur ride in this period.i.e. no harsh riding,no hard braking,no heavy pillion .. .

Hi sibun..
I got surprised to see your hero honda joy 2001
its really awesome. I really need your advice for proper maintaining
I had an black hunk (2008) and sold due to colour fade
Now I owed a new 2012 ZMA and really need your advice

BTW i belongs to the same city you are...

Though Sibun da is the best person to answer this, but I'd like to pitch in.

My dad also has a 1998 model Splendor, still running strong and gives my Karizma a run for its money in terms of maintenance. He has clocked 2L kms and the engine has not been opened yet.

His mantra:-
1. Wash the bike twice a week.
2. Never let the bike dry in the sun, rather wipe it dry with cloth.
3. Polish it with waxpol.
4. Replace engine oil every 1800-2k kms.
5. Never park in direct sunlight. (can be avoided 95% of the time)
6. Lube the chain every 500-600 kms
7. Keep tires properly inflated.
8. Ride the bike to 75% of its potential. Though he does hit 80-85 kmph once in a while, he rides in the 60-70 kmph zone all the time.
(we can manage these speeds in my city - Bokaro, Jharkhand)

Thanks 100rabh, Didn't knew run-in was called Break-in as well . But how do we get to know that the period is over? Any changes in the overall behaviour of the bike?


Nice tips mate

By the way what types of issues do u have currently or had before ?? Mine are frequent chain adjustment,self decrease in tyre pressure,increasing engine noise ...

I had the engine noise issue, especially at speeds of 45-50. It was accompanied with vibration towards the brake pedal. That was somehow fixed during my last service, the mechanic did some tweaking near the battery and tightened some bolts.

Rest, the bike's self start is giving me shivers as off late it takes two to three pushes to fire-in. I had to roll start once that too on a sunny day. Got it checked in my last service but they said all the connections were OK. You had such issues with self-start? My bike didn't even complete 10k kms and without kick, dooms day aint so far for me

Does the CBZ Extreme differ from CBZ classic in terms of the engine refinement? I always thought the engine was the same, only body has been changing all the while.

And if it has changed, then has there been improvements in it or its the opposite?

I had the same starting issue. Was fixed after replacing the switch assembly. It might also be a starter relay issue from what they told me. But my bet is, yours is the same issue as mine.

Also, I now have engine oil leaking. This I think was caused because during the time I changed my bike to DC, the gasket was damaged but I didn't really think it'd do much harm so ignored it. Now my ignorance has come back to haunt me. I plan on getting the bike serviced tomorrow and also replace the current engine oil with Motul 300V or Motul 7100. Will update here accordingly.

How much would the switch assembly cost? I heard Hunks have installable kick, do we have similar provision for CBZ extreme?

it seems to be normal.Problem starts when u push and nothing happens(no click sound). starter relay costs 240rs. keep it covered by tape or something so water doesn't get inside.my starter relay has been changed 3 times till now.One more thing,always keep ur bike running for 3-5 mins in morning before leaving.

Going through a personal tragedy since yesterday morning. Maybe 2 more days to bear through and that too not sure of its outcome.
Started the day (Saturday) with a BIG BIG disappointment and frustration. Got up early and was headed towards a Honda Service Centre (not HMC), when I thought that I can check Vinline Engg. (a HMC ASC in Kolkata) too for 10W30 (Tide Water wala) plus get my 'loose' silencer tightened. What happened post that was purely shocking. While tightening the one of the nuts (towards the engine head, from where the exhaust pipe starts) just broke off!!!! And the 'screw' part was still inside the engine head!! :OOO For no fault of mine, the engine head has to be opened and now taken to Wellington and machine the screw out by a lathe (on Monday ) My silver beast is crying for me, getting wet in the line of other neglected motorcycles and my tears aren't stopping either! :'(

I just pray that my silver beast comes back home, safe and sound (and scratch-less) :'(

And also the machinists do not damage even a thread of the engine head. Otherwise I have to run pillar to post to get it changed under warranty and stuff. :'(

Nothing to worry. My mechanic does it on most bikes. Instead be happy that your head will also be decarbonized along with this. What they do in lathe is they weld a piece of thin rod on the silencer stud and screw it out. Then they use a new stud available in SVC.

I will post solution for your performance issue tommorow.
@ all- See the DIY thread.

I'll get my stater relay issue fixed as soon as it stops responding again. Thanks for the tape trick, I'll get that done asap

On the noise issue, I'll ask the mechanic what he did to get rid of that noise, also when I'll be back home, I will try if I can point out the things he did since I've never gone through removing the panels.

Rest don't worry about it bro, I am sure your problems will subside soon and you'll enjoy your ride just like you did earlier



Thanks alot for the detailed tutorial Sibun sir, just a little issue with the master lock. I couldn't understand how it was done, could you please shed a little light on the movement required to unlink that?