@ Pinaki da
I bought Honda 10W30 (grey bottle) made by tide water last week.
It was 1L bottle, not 800 ml.
Costed me 240 rupees.

@ All
1. My chain adjuster has reached its limit and chain is loose. Isnt it possible to remove a couple of links from the chain and bring the adjuster to the front..? Heard someone here saying once adjster reaches its limit, chain must be replaced. (Odo - 15.5K )

2. Is nitrogen filling worth the premium..? My tyres loose air like 10 psi in two weeks.
So will it be a good idea to fill nitrogen..?

yaa,it is really irritating to tighten in every few days....i wish some kind of solution was present...


dont you think the clicking sound could be due to bad ball bearings rather than chains?......if it were worn sprokets the sound would be constant but i only hear an occasional click...


@girimajiananth
no i havent contacted asc, will go during 2nd servicing...

1. Get a new chain and sprocket set. Best. No controversies involved!
2. Here in Kolkata, there is a MRF tyre service shop that offers Nitrogen filling for INR 25 per tyre. and 3 free refills for 3 months. But he guarantees that there won't be 'any' leakage for the entire 3 month. Even if it there, it won't drop below 1-2psi at max. Confirmed that will my leaky tyres do justice - and he nodded in confirmation. However, I'm not running on Nitrogen as of now. You can surely try it out once and report back on the forum given you're facing the problems of super-leaky tyres. But I doubt that pressure will hold in your case, if the alloy rim is indeed quite bent. Check and do let us know.

Is your chain clean and lubricated? Mind you, rain riding (and even in general during the rainy season) requires more frequent lubrication of the chain than one would normally do. Maybe some link(s) are getting jammed and hence the occasional clicking sound. Use SAE 90 gear only for lubricating or MOTUL chain lube. Don't go for the oil that the ASCs/any workshop use - it is bad, used engine oil. Steer clear of that thing!

Decreasing air pressure seems to be another common isssue with xtreme's tubeless tyres .

@ Senior Members (Pinaki sir/Sibun/EKM-Biker/Aneesh ) is it possible for new chain sets to get busted so early.(almost an year). what brand we look for replacement. and what type of chain is suited for open chain case(in case we[me ] plan to do so. i guess i should change the front sprocket with unicorn (as mentioned few pages back) along with the chain.

So in total i am due for some work :
Both front/rear brake pads
Chain Set
Front sprocket
Carb Cleaning
Tappet Noise Check/adjustment

Should i do it at good outside mech as i hardly trust SVC guys,dont know what parts they will use. and what should be the brand recommendations/approx cost for all these items/work.

Its not just about maintaining the oil level -the more you ride in this condition and the con rod will develop some kinda play they said - and then you will have to open the entire engine - that was one main thing that made me fix the problem ASAP .

Exactly thats the point i am trying to make if the OE oil is that bad wouldnt it be damaging the engine pretty fast and here i am seeing splendors and passions doing a 1Lac kms on stock bore on the same OE oil - how do one even find out if its loosing viscosity ? surely you cant say the oil is bad by looking at its color/smell or what most local mech do ie rub it between the fingers to tell how many more kms it can run further - which is BS anyway - and things get more complicated when we change the oil change interval from 6K to say 1k -1.5k kms - there are even people who run their bike just by topping up the oil every service and change it every 5-6K kms - i personally know of a guy who sells RO water filter all over the place who does exactly that in his Xtreme and his engine hasnt gone bonkers in all the 33,000 kms he was ridden so far .

The only way you can be sure like that is by sending it to some lab that tests the oil and gives a detailed report of the same but then those tests cost a bomb right

Please keep in mind i never once said running 50 grade oil would kill your engine - all i said was it is not needed in a honda .`

I don know about other bike but in Xtreme 50 oil surely chokes the top end - i mostly ride on the highway and seen this happen a lot on 50 grade oil.

yes I've heard of that...but some financial constraints..

But... !
My bike is not getting started now! I started my Hunk at the office basement in the evening, it started I just put first gear and moved.... kinda missing and bike stopped ! Tried electric start 7-8 times after that battery went off, tried kick start but no luck, tried using choke, tried after stopping fuel, but nothing worked. Tried push starting no luck, took plug out, was oily, cleaned and checked for spark, all fine...

Put plug back, cranked, smoke comes out of silencer each time, but its not getting started.
Petrol problem / compression issue / something else ?

Better late than never sir - always a pleasure to read your posts.

Wow never knew honda is selling synthetic oil for Rs 500 .yes sir you are correct they give in 800ml bottles only mostly but they also have 1L bottle - i recently bough two of them and if it takes all the abuse for 1,5K kms then thats awesome and yes i agree fully with you on the gulf oils they are great as well - too many choices now for the honda customers

sometimes i wish i can be like them .

this needs to quoted again and again .

Yeah that looks perfect .

I would love to try the shell 10W 40 oil but i cant get myself buy a product from a company that is actively sending death squads to wipe out entire villages

Shell accused of fuelling violence in Nigeria by paying rival militant gangs | World news | The Guardian

Shell oil paid Nigerian military to put down protests, court documents show | World news | The Guardian

and this is just the tip of the iceberg

Honda oils come in 1L bottle too. Unicorn and Dazzler have drain capacity of 1L.

ah i know how frustrating it can be but dont worry it can all be fixed .

is the kicker feeling like it has no pressure ? did you check if the engine oil level immediately ? its burning oil thats why you see the smoke - happened to me a couple of times but it started in the morning - try push starting in 2 gear and keep us updated .

ROLON or DIAMOND kit - recently got DIAMOND from their distributor in chennai for Rs 700 on sibuns advise - front sprocket of Uni costs 150 .

Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post

Should i do it at good outside mech as i hardly trust SVC guys,dont know what parts they will use. and what should be the brand recommendations/approx cost for all these items/work.

carb cleaning and stuff better take to ASC and make sure only the head mech touches the carb and no one else .

Which oil is evaporating and losing its shape, i.e., liquidity at engine operating temperature? Viscosity is the resistance to flow and is different in different grade oil. The best practice is filling the oil recommended by the manufacturer of the bike itself.

It's available for Rs 170 a bottle at 2 shops in Prince Anwar Shah Road and ESS Enterprise Jadavpur(besides KPC hospital) . But I got my stock(6 bottles) at the end of 2011 , shall check and tell you asap . But certainly not more than 200 now .

Ideal is what works for you . 10w40 would work nicely for rather new engines . My cbz-x is old and 20w40 feels best in it, particularly during the high summer . During it's initial years it was running whatever the ASC filled , I dunno .

Is that so , it's possible .. I have purchased the Honda 20w40(white bottle) a few times only and it was 800ml only . The others I've just seen at the shop(and took them to be 800ml like their 20w40) .. so my mistake .
It is possible and very popular with local mechanics to remove a few chain links when the chain has reached maximum adjustment . But it creates a weak point in the chain , and a chain break during a speed run is not a pleasant experience . And believe me , during a speed run in the middle of a deserted road at noon is when it'll break . This is why nowadays in more powerful bikes manufacturers fit an endless chain , without even a removable lock mechanism(the lock is also a weak point) .Chain sprocket set is a relatively cheap part .
When you fill with orinary air , it's 78% Nitrogen that you get . Whether getting the rest 22% of Nitrogen also is up to you . Only plus is nitrogen filling machines do fill less humid air(less water vapour) and cause less rim/rubber corrosion .

Decreasing air pressure happens with any tyres , tubed and tubeless and through the years and bikes I have suffered from it too . Once a wheel develops this problem , I never got to really fixing it despite much effort and in the end everytime had to replace the tyre and tube vexed . Things I watch out nowadays while getting new tyre/tube sets is

i) Ensure that the rim itself is in very good condition , if not repair it properly or replace it . Check for and keep spokes tight .
ii) with tube tyre , use a new mrf branded tube and tube-tape (ensure it by checking the embossed mrf-markings) , well dust with french-chalk while fitting and fit carefully and perfectly .
iii) check the new air valve and see that it's shiny new , don't buy a tyre/tube with old or even a bit deformed or tarnished valve fitting . Always keep an plastic valve cap on in use .
iv) buy a pencil type pocket air pressure gauge and check air pressure weekly at least . I also have got a foot-pump now to correct pressure weekly at home .
This is working well for me yet . Despite this I am almost decided not to buy another cast-wheeled/tubeless-tyre bike again .

Good make of chain-sprocket is from Rolon or Diamond . O-ring type chains are indeed a huge development in motorcycle drive chains (they say it's revolutionary) . It takes a whole lot of maintenance effort out of the chain drive . I am wondering if my bike can be fitted with one at it's next change . You can try it . An O-ring type chain insides a full chain cover would be almost maintenance-free , I think .
Sibun"jee , can you advice if this is do-able ?

These simple Honda engines are so sturdy by nature that the loss of engine life by using one or another oil grade would not be significant over the time you may own the bike . i.e you'd hardly complain if your engine lasts 1lakhs kms instead of say 1.5 ... and by that time you may have to overhaul it for a different reason altogether or would have sold it off and riding a new bike .
Use cheap mineral oil that feels good on your bike and change it often is what I too believe is best for us regular road-runners .

By "CHEAP MINERAL OIL" i hope u didn't include the unknown HMC oil that they pour into our rides . I dont use any outside purchased oil longer than 2500 kms and ASC oil longer than 1500 kms.Engine is smooth but due to tappet noise (i guess it to be so) and bad chain condition my pickup seems suffered.