Yeah i messed with the wrong screw trying to tune the carb using sibuns guide and i think i damaged one screw .

I damaged this one :



I believe this is the correct screw on the left side of the carb :P :

Review of full synthetic oil

Friends, told you some time back that I put full synthetic oil at 17 k now nearing 19k
My review , After self filling took out for a test drive of 12 km . Felt very very bad vibrations, after 4 km felt like hell, ( opinions on foreign bike forums , where in they had told about roughness for the first 100 kms.)so suffered it. Next day took 540 km ride to Bangalore.After about an hour of continuous ride in rain . bike performance was like normal oil filled . nothing extra ordinary. Next day was a ride of 440 km B'lore Tumkur ,Rayagudda , dobaspet, Dodballapur, Gouribidannur, Bagepalli and Andhra Pradesh and back to Bangalore via -NH-7. very good feeling, bike was very smooth. Then return journey to Ekm after a week stay . very very satisfied . VFM Product . elf Moto 4xt tech 10 w 50 @ Rs. 700/- with Rs. 25/- discount.So recommending for long rides .For short rides you can try Semi synthetic will be VFM . I have experience with Shell SS. it was good.

+100 to this.
I also learned it hard way. Now for my Uni, Twister and CD Deluxe I am using
mineral oil 10W30 From tide water, either Honda or Hero brand. Life is so simple now.

Hmmm...but I'm being apprehensive just coz it has done 3.5kays. Not even the 3rd service! Also, fuel isn't 'dripping' as such. Slightly wet only and that too found after the 75-80kmph constant ride. And I don't want to touch it now (though my hand is itching to open up the carb!) coz:
1. I'm keeping much busy these days even on weekends.
1.a. I don't have tools here. Many tools lying at home, crying for me!
2. Most importantly, I want to do this under the guidance of some senior/exp person.
3. One of a senior rider told me that just let it be that way. It is generally due to some 'back pressure' created by very fine irregularities in a new carb jet. And ripping the bike at speeds continuously over 80 kmph means that the carb asks for more fuel and at a higher flow rate, the back pressure is most obvious and hence the float valve opens up, draining little amount of fuel through the carb drain tube. He advised me to ride a few thousand 1-2 kms more and check back before opening up a tuned carb. (However this is an advice based on the assumption that the carb jet is not smooth) Might be some dirt trapped in the jet too?

Also, I read this at some abroad based motorcycle forum that if the jets have any dirt, it can be taken care of in this manner:

Ride the bike at higher revs, turn off the fuel (cut off fuel supply to the carb). The remaining fuel in the carb gets used up. And keep it turned off till when you find that the bike is about to shut off. Do this 2-3 times and the jet will get cleaned of its own. I wish to know/learn about the genuineness of the method.

If you are not losing on fuel mileage and having no problems in running ... don't waste time . On the other hand if you are going to try it sooner or later better try it during warranty . You'd need correct size tools ... just a few really ... maybe one or two other than the bike's toolkit itself . I measured out all the nuts and bolts and screws beforehand and collected the necessary things plus an aerosol carb-cleaner etc . If it's really dirty inside , there is no other way to clean it up other than to open and clean . The dirt that sticks in there is quite gummy .
There are only two conditions during which petrol would come out of that bowl drain tube . i) when the carb bowl drain screw(nut) is unscrewed ii) there is an overflow (fuel level is excessive) in the float bowl . The second condition occurs from malfunction of the float-valve mechanism(from may possible causes), nothing to do with the jets . Infact you can try opening just the float bowl and cleaning it and the float+valve thingy and spray some carb cleaner up into the jets , with the carb still mounted on the bike . That's what the ASC mechanics do when you ask them to clean the carb .

Really minor and cosmetic damage(that is the carb bowl drain nut) .. don't worry about it . I put a drop of light sewing-machine oil on a carb screw overnight before trying a seldom opened screw on soft screws like those on the carb , and yeah .. use a good correct size driver and be gentle .

Please do tell me why i must not use w50 oil , and i will share my knowledge about why you its ok to use w50 .

To a student, nothing is notwithstanding of cost.
Anyway, 1k seems like an awful lot for 1L of oil, I'm better off with Shell Semi Synthetic or the like. I was actually looking a review of the 2 oils I'd posted before. The Motul 300V 10W40 and the Petronas Sprinta 4T 5000.

Yup, I got the same pads which are use on the ZMR, they were from Nissin. Cost a bomb alright!

Semi Synthetics are better for in city usage I guess and fully synthetics are preferred for long high speed runs. Am I correct?

NOTE: People from Bangalore and want Agip or Motul Oils, contact Mr. Ravi Sanjeev, +919019907773. He sells the 300V for 950 and the Motul 7100 for 700 odd, both are Fully Synthetic. He also does home delivery for Rs.40 odd. Nice guy, his store is in Rajajinagar.

I feel you are right and I am given to know the same .

Tomorrow is an interview, so i am busy with it. As soon as interview is over i will be able to reply to all your queries. I will be also able to post the DIY for chain cleaning and how to open chain cover for extreme/hunks. Also review of 15T front sprocket is awaiting which i will reply tomorrow as i have not been able to ride my extreme due to rains and i am riding my joy.

All the best!

On the longer run , full synthetics are the best .

Keeps your engine cool even at higher temperatures . But when you shift from mineral or semi synthetic to fully synthetic , make sure you drain the old engine oil even from the oil filter.

Most bikes have easy access to opening the oil filter and drain out the oil, but i am guessing you need to open the crank case in CBZ and Hunk in order to remove the oil from oil filter.

When you drain out the oil filter, you need to add 1L + i think 250ml of the new engine oil .

Its never advised to mix mineral and syntetic oil

Semi synthetic is a mixture of mineral and synthetic.

when draining old oil tilt the bike to both sides many a
times so that max. oil drains , like this I could get more than 1 ltr.
out and when filled with 1 ltr. oil level is between Max. and Min.

i know semi synthetic is a mixture of mineral and synthetic oil , but its mixed at a different environment and using a different method.

Are you sure that if i tilt the bike many times like you said , even the oil from the oil filter comes out ?

Once completely drained , how much oil do u fill ?

How to replace /clean the oil filter ?

Hi, Though Both Bikes have same engine.. but please clear my doubts..

1) kick options are absent from both bike, can we install the same, on new one.

2) which bike is suits good for highway and which suits for city driving... i heard somewhere.. difference of long gear ratio & shorter gear ration.. IS IT SOO.. if yes then on which bike it is.. cbz or hunk.. please explain to me...

1. Well kick start cant be installed easily , you will have to deal with the crank shaft , making holes in engine casing, installing the kick start mechanism , altering the gear box , clutch etc etc.

Its best if you purchase it from factory , even if someone says its possible , never do it its expensive ,waste of time and money.

you will be losing warrenty on your bike if you do such things.

2. The comfort must be viewed entirely in your perspective. Its up to you to decide what is best for you .

Test ride both the bikes before purchasing .