some experiences of K & N Filter

I ve never used anything other than standard air filters that came with my CBZ , but i ve come across some people who have used K & N .

-From what i ve heard , K&N filter have larger pores and hence more air intake , thus you get more torque and pickup etc etc...

- Due to these larger pores , filtering of dust is not all that effective , so chances of spoiling your engine is quite high.

-Since you are burning fuel at a higher rate , your overall Fuel efficiency will certainly reduce.

harsh gear shifting !

is it the up shift or the down shift that is harsh ?

have you checked the clutch for the free play ??

sometimes if you are up shifting at higher RPMs you will experience the harshness .

Next time you downshift , rev a little bit , say 100-300 rpms and then downshift .

My gears became lot smoother when i started using semi synthetic oils . i use Shell semi synthetic and gear shift is quite smooth

Do check the tubes . If the tubes are weak air leakage is quite common . in such cases its best to replace the tubes .

whats your odo meter reading ?
how many times have you changes the tubes ?
Any patch work done to fix punctures ?
you can even try checking the tyre valve , if its loose tighten it and see if the leakage continues

Forgot to mention, mine is a Tubeless version.

@ASHWIN

dude check your rim if it is bent or has crack......

were you tyres previously repaired with tyre cement?

an improperly applied tyre cement can cause air leakage on application of pressure...

also check your tyre valves ...they can also leak pressure...


i suggest you can try some tire sealant such as SLIME to prevent leakage...

hope this helps

The tubeless alloy bible! :P

Ashwin bro, take it from me - nothing works. It might seem that I might be exaggerating but I am perhaps the most experienced bhpian here on this particular forum (at least in this thread) regarding the mix of tubeless tyres and alloys of HMC/HH.

Because: 4 months of non-stop fight with the regional/zonal offices of HMC and I finally got both of my alloys changed under warranty, free of cost. In the process, I learnt a lot - from experienced people; hours and hours with all kinds of tyre guys, good shops and also the regional head (East India) Engineer from MRF in Kolkata! I also had the issue of leaky tubeless tyres (without any puncture) and believe me - it was unimaginably difficult to convince the people in the SVC/Zonal Office/Regional Office that the fault was not with the tyres but with the alloys. Go back quite a few threads and you will find my detailed report on the same.

Take it with a pinch of salt - HMC has done very little R&D in their alloys and tyres department. They simply have added the 'tubeless' part because it appears fancy to most of us. And quite true to their character, they are a blessing in disguise. They prevent accidents like nothing else. But unfortunately, HMC has not been able to find a right path to deploy tubeless tyres. What you might have noticed that tubeless tyres are most on the thicker profiles. And the aspect ratio is less as compared to 'tall' tyres fitted on our bikes. 100/90 x 18 is a tall tyre by all standards. And same goes for the front tyre also. But what is getting apparent is that tall tyres do not show good affinity towards tubeless alloys and vice-versa. It has more to do with the kind of rubber (sticky/soft/semi-soft/hard) that sticks to the alloy's inner walls (and the contact surface area) rather than it just being tubeless.
And also, the kind of compressed air that we get in pumps are to be blamed nonetheless. This is because often, the de-humidifier attached to the compressor doesn't work that well and we inadvertently get some 'moisture' with the air. When the tyre is warm, vapour is formed inside the tyres. When cold, the moisture condenses and this very water is responsible for corrosion of the inner alloy walls and the inner flat surface. This leads to uneven-ness on a microscopic level and aids the leakage of air. Also, the tyres keep getting hard, esp the walls that are in contact with the alloy walls.
Even a slight crack in their 'set' position leads to 'leaky' tyres. And remember - this is more probable and witnessed in tyres with tall profiles in their tubeless avatars.

From what appears to be your main problem area -
1. The alloy might have got bent a bit.
2. If the alloy hasn't bent, the tyre wall in contact with the alloy wall might have ruptured.
3. An already corroded inner wall of the alloy would speed up the process of air leakage.

Solution:
1. Where do you stay? If in Delhi, I'm sure that there would be some official MRF tyre shop or a good branded tyre shop that does all the stuff like auto wheel alignment and has computers to help them with the same.
2. NEVER EVER IN THE EVEN OF AIR LEAKAGE/PUNCTURE - TAKE YOUR BIKE TO A LOCAL TYREWALLA WHO DOES NOT HAVE A MECHANIZED WAY OF OPENING THE TYRE FROM THE ALLOY. WITH THE HAMMER AND TONGS METHOD OF OPENING AND REPAIRING THE TYRE, THE ALLOY GET ONLY WORSE AND IRREPAIRABLE HENCE. I SAY THIS IN BOLDS!!
3. Ask the tyre shop to check the alloy for any 'inner' bends. If any, you're out of luck.
4. If not, ask them to check the tyre inner wall.
5. If both are ok, ask them to 'smoothen' the inner wall of the alloy. They will sand the inner walls by hand with emery paper and smoothen out all the irregularities.
6. Mount the tyre and fill up quite a lot of air - upto 50 psi max. THIS IS IMPORTANT. It allows the inner tyre wall to get the 'initial stick' with the alloy walls.
7. Ride your bike and check for further issues.

8. If nothing works, get your tyres and alloys replaced under warranty. Tyre will be taken care of by MRF (AND NOT HMC), Alloys will be taken care by the Service Centre.

Happy reading the long post.

Yeah like you predicted earlier and those marks are "honing" marks ? i thought inside the bore should be smooth with no marks like that .

The SC mech told me they dont rebore only install new bore kits - its like their standard practice or something - only that head mech in vellore was ready to change just the rings - i even called some other SC and they were like " better go for complete overhaul" .

So it was the oil seeping through the rings gap that was spoiling the valves ? that head mech in vellore already knew of this [problem yet he didnt change the rings the second time the bike lost compression - he just put new valves and sent me home that bugger .

This particular SC in kanchipuram is a known CHOR SC - long back they even tried to sell me a accident bike as new - they once filled in only half a lt of engine oil during service - failed to set the tappet correctly even after multiple attempts - the list is endless - so you know i would never have given my ride to them ever - but that mail that i sent to hero and the GM guys response was what made me change my mind - also i was getting tired of running around .

completed 200Kms with the new bore and some observations :

1) earlier with the old bore the genuine honda 10w30 felt great but on this new bore i dont see much diff. between the hero oil and this honda one.

2)The engine heats up a lot like even after just 20Kms it fells like it has done 70Kms or more .

3)The engine feels like its "free" already - feels like it require no running in - also i see little to no diff. in the kicker pressure - the kicker compression is not all that great - i checked it with a old xtreme that came to the SC its kicker was much harder to kick .

But the bike flies like anything it feels like one twist of the throttle and it will do 90km/hr in no time .

Thanks

So any oil with the 20W40 grade will do?


It's a September 2010 model, so almost 2 years of smooth run

11100 kms

Ok I'll go for it

I'lll stick to the stock one... Don't know a thing about upjetting

Feedback is worse than a drum brake. Every time I complain, they tighten it or do something which merely lasts 2-3 days

Sure.. Thanks

Then next time you fill air , make sure the tyres are cold .
coz if the tyres are hot , air will expand quickly and the pressure indicated will be higher at that moment .

once the tyres cool down , air inside will compress (not sure if its the right word, not able to use the exact term at this moment) and hence the pressure may reduce .

Use a reputed brand of engine oil , try shell semi synthetic first . its 10W40 and its quite smooth.

check the brake oil level . if its too less , then top up , or some times even if there is excess oil your discs may not work properly .

the break oil level is full up to the max mark.
Someone suggested to install Apache's brake pads as they are more hard and will provide more grip but eventually the disc will worn out quite sooner.....

Exactly the same I was also thinking bro, after to rode one of my friends's RTR, Both disc was amazing and very confident, you don't need to even put the pressure on lever to stop the bike, just press them as like a button and they responds very well.

I was also thinking to install the whole disc assembly of RTR to my hunk but not possible due to their structure and may it is possible that only disc pad would able to do the work ....

Some one here(IIRC, Sooraj_vs) has tried KBX pads and he's satisified with the results, but they'd wear out soon.

But I don't feel my Hunk's brakes to be too bad as you guys mentioned, may be its poor compared to Apache. Check the following anyways,
- check if the brake fluid is too old, when did you change it last?
- check the condition of master cylinder piston with the help of a mechanic, if the oil pressure is leaking thru pistons you'll not get the right braking
- rubbing the brake pads to remove glazing would improve braking, see the link here

i am not sure if you can install apache s pads on cbz/hunk ( i have not seen anyone do it )

even if its possible you can only get it done from local mechanics , the authorized service center wont entertain such modifications .

They wont use any other product other than HH genuine spares.

why dont you go to a different service center ?