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Its 8500on odo, got my cbz its 5th service. it was a little late , the service is done on 3400+ kms after previous service.
it feels like engine is butter smooth now.
but there are some problem after service.
feels like front handle is loose while applying front brake. I ask svc to fix it but it still exists.
main problem it feels jerk during first km or less, starting trouble in morning.
.
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A Lal
HH CBZ Xtreme DDS BLACK 17.Dec.2011
Maruti Suzuki Ritz Vxi 06.May.2014
RE Bullet 500 Jet Black 04.May.2015 - 03.March.2017
Bajaj Dominar ABS Moon White 17.March.2017
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Your steering cone set is loose I guess, you can get it tightened with a local mechanic.Originally posted by abhisheklalnediya View PostIts 8500on odo, got my cbz its 5th service. it was a little late , the service is done on 3400+ kms after previous service.
it feels like engine is butter smooth now.
but there are some problem after service.
feels like front handle is loose while applying front brake. I ask svc to fix it but it still exists.
main problem it feels jerk during first km or less, starting trouble in morning.
.
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Ok had to change my HONDA engine oil recently ...as i was out running around in this remote place i could only find this small spare part shop that opened recently and they had no 30 grade oil... the closest thing they had was Shell 10W 40 ...had no choice so got the 1lt bottle ...drained the old oil when it was hot and was surprised to see the bike take the whole 1Lt and its still showing only half full when i checked the dipstick
....i always carry some left over oil from my old 1lt 10w 30 bottles so poured that...i might have added 50-60 ml of this oil to the 40 grade oil is this bad guys ? should i drain the thing immediately ?
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First, As far as I can comprehend, in the "half-full" stage, there won't be any oil level 'mark' on the dipstick. Are you sure it was half full? Or was the oil mark in between the two marks on the end of the dipstick? Because, even after full draining of the coil after opening the crank-case, filling a litre of oil won't be just 'half' full.Originally posted by sarbanoxley View PostOk had to change my HONDA engine oil recently ...as i was out running around in this remote place i could only find this small spare part shop that opened recently and they had no 30 grade oil... the closest thing they had was Shell 10W 40 ...had no choice so got the 1lt bottle ...drained the old oil when it was hot and was surprised to see the bike take the whole 1Lt and its still showing only half full when i checked the dipstick
....i always carry some left over oil from my old 1lt 10w 30 bottles so poured that...i might have added 50-60 ml of this oil to the 40 grade oil is this bad guys ? should i drain the thing immediately ?
Second: Whenever we change oil grades, it is not always that we drain it fully by opening the crank-case and then freshly fill it up with the new grade oil. Do we? Certain amount of the old grade oil remains. and 40-60ml addition of the 10W30 oil is absolutely perfect. No problems for your engine.
However, I would suggest you to re-check the oil level: An oil level greater than the maximum limit might result in:
1. Lower fuel efficiency.
2. Fouling of Spark Plug.
3. More 'greasy' carbon deposition on engine head.
4. Pick-up affected.
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What might be the reason for jerk during the first km after morning start??
I inspected air filter, its clean, got 5th service this monday, mileage increased from 66km to 75km for 1.4x liter(Rs 100)petrol
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A Lal
HH CBZ Xtreme DDS BLACK 17.Dec.2011
Maruti Suzuki Ritz Vxi 06.May.2014
RE Bullet 500 Jet Black 04.May.2015 - 03.March.2017
Bajaj Dominar ABS Moon White 17.March.2017
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increase in mileage and cold start problem: Lean mixture?Originally posted by abhisheklalnediya View PostWhat might be the reason for jerk during the first km after morning start??
I inspected air filter, its clean, got 5th service this monday, mileage increased from 66km to 75km for 1.4x liter(Rs 100)petrol
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I'm glad the RR is not at fault. Reverting back to stock wiring would've been painful!Originally posted by sibun View PostThe RR cannot be at fault.
Let me explain:-
These bikes run DC CDI and thus gets power from battery. They will show problem only when the battery is ill charged or damaged. The problem will be different. The usual problem are mis firing and low performance. But idle changing is different thing. But after you did the DC conversion, the battery is getting charged more better then no problem.
Yes, my tappets were adjusted recently. I'm just hoping they weren't tightened too much.Look for problems in air intake and carb. Was your tappets adjusted recently. Tight tappets can cause such problem. Check for air leaks from carb to engine. Check the rubber intake manifold if it has cracks or not and if loose.
Also if the slow jet in carb is blocked with dirt, similar problems of idle shooting up can occur.
Check with a good mechanic or take it to a good service center.
Or else check air filter for dirt, check the rubber manifolds for air leak and then clean the carb properly and re-tune by following my process. Most of the bikes now are DC and they run fine with DC CDI. Nothing to worry. Just check whether battery is getting properly charged.
I will check for air leaks. I'm not very confident about opening up the carb and putting it back.
Can I use the Honda Stunner's DIY guide on this same forum for the same?
Thanks a lot for all the help sibun, you truly are a great asset to this forum. Your patience in answering people's queries is commendable.
Hero Honda Hunk 2011, RC'ed, DC'ed, MC'ed! :P
There's fine line between genius and madness. Don't cross it!
Hero Spare Prices Catalog
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I think so, i can see some scratches in some of the screws of carb, I think the svc guys adjusted it.Originally posted by SatSon View Postincrease in mileage and cold start problem: Lean mixture?
How to check if the AFR is in safe range.
I think lean will reduce power??
But no noticeable power loss. I think power increased a little bit as i can feel smooth climbs on some of my regular route.
how to identify the AFR screw??
--
A Lal
HH CBZ Xtreme DDS BLACK 17.Dec.2011
Maruti Suzuki Ritz Vxi 06.May.2014
RE Bullet 500 Jet Black 04.May.2015 - 03.March.2017
Bajaj Dominar ABS Moon White 17.March.2017
Comment
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Ok thanks for the reply and yeah on the dipstick its showing the oil level is between the max and minimum mark...i drained the old oil hot and it was like water and i kept on rocking the bike sideways for a long time so maybe 1Lt of old oil came out ? is that possible ? .Originally posted by BloggingWheels View PostFirst, As far as I can comprehend, in the "half-full" stage, there won't be any oil level 'mark' on the dipstick. Are you sure it was half full? Or was the oil mark in between the two marks on the end of the dipstick? Because, even after full draining of the coil after opening the crank-case, filling a litre of oil won't be just 'half' full.
Second: Whenever we change oil grades, it is not always that we drain it fully by opening the crank-case and then freshly fill it up with the new grade oil. Do we? Certain amount of the old grade oil remains. and 40-60ml addition of the 10W30 oil is absolutely perfect. No problems for your engine.
However, I would suggest you to re-check the oil level: An oil level greater than the maximum limit might result in:
1. Lower fuel efficiency.
2. Fouling of Spark Plug.
3. More 'greasy' carbon deposition on engine head.
4. Pick-up affected.
will check the oil level tomorrow and report back .
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Ok when the dipstick shows such a mark, then your oil level is ok. It should not be below the lower mark/higher than the upper mark. Anything in between is perfectly fine. And regarding the draining of 1lt of oil, going by the method you used - might be possible. Are you saying 1lt drained because it consumed a litre of oil? or did you measure the volume of the drained oil? I think it is the first. My suggestion - ride your bike for a few days and check the oil level when the engine is not too hot - just warmed up a bit.Originally posted by sarbanoxley View PostOk thanks for the reply and yeah on the dipstick its showing the oil level is between the max and minimum mark...i drained the old oil hot and it was like water and i kept on rocking the bike sideways for a long time so maybe 1Lt of old oil came out ? is that possible ? .
will check the oil level tomorrow and report back .
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The AFR screw is a bronze coloured screw located on the left side of the carb. The right side of the carb has this idle RPM screw that looks like an inverted thick headed screw with a spring attached to it. The AFR screw is just on the other side of the same. However, on the left side, there is another bronze coloured screw, around the same size of the AFR screw that is located on the lower part of the carb. But you can distinguish the AFR easily because the other screw that I am talking about has a 'tube' (the carb drain tube) below it.Originally posted by abhisheklalnediya View PostI think so, i can see some scratches in some of the screws of carb, I think the svc guys adjusted it.
How to check if the AFR is in safe range.
I think lean will reduce power??
But no noticeable power loss. I think power increased a little bit as i can feel smooth climbs on some of my regular route.
how to identify the AFR screw??
And from the symptoms that you've mentioned, I think it to be 2 issues:
1. Cold start problem is not that severe (you've mentioned no loss of power almost and a smooth engine response)
2. It is de-facto that when the SVC mechanics deal with the carb, they adjust it for a lean mixture. To improve the mileage, etc.
My suggestion would be to let your motorcycle run for some days and revert back if the problem becomes too much of a headache. Till then, I do not think you should fiddle with a lean-tuned mixture.
Right @SatSon?
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