The new extreme have Phillips Germany bulbs. Those bulbs you can see they are thinner and are more brighter and focus good. You can go for those.Available at all service center for Rs.220. Be sure to ask for Germany bulbs and open to see if they are thinner bulbs.No, 20W 40 decreases mileage and it has been experimented by me. 20W 40 also makes the engine gruff although it may sound smooth but the engine running will be as if it is restrained by something. Ask sarbonoxly who changed from 20W 40 to 10W 30 by my advice. Your engine is consuming oil and on the verge of re-built, so you do not feel difference. Re-built the engine and you will immediately know the difference. His engine is a new engine and thus his mileage decreased drastically. As i have told it is the counter bearing. As you know behind the front sprocket there is an oil seal and the counter shaft comes out which is mounted with the front sprocket. If you pop out the oil seal of front sprocket, you can see the counter bearing. But unfortunately you cannot take out the bearing from outside and whole engine has to be opened.So when you open change the counter bearing.Another member who has sound in 3rd and 4th gear, he has also the same problem.Why it is causing the problem, because when the wheel is loaded the chain loads the front sprocket angularly towards the back. So the bearing is loaded. If the bearing is good then no sound, but if the bearing is faulty what happens is that it will push the counter gears on the main gear and thus will put enormous pressure on the main gear shaft. Why it happens in third gear?It happens in third gear first because:-First let me explain how gears are stacked- The counter gear is supported by the counter bearing near the front sprocket and the main gears are supported by main gear bearing through which the shaft passes and the clutch is fitted. The gears are arranged such that the first gear lies near the left casing and fifth gear lies near the center casing. So the counter shaft is supported at the left casing and the main shaft at the center casing. So when 1st,2nd gear are used then the counter shaft has support nearby and thus doesn't deflect much and thus no sound.When 4th and 5th gears are used then support is on main shaft near the middle casing and thus no sound.Since 3rd gear is in middle it deflects more and cause the sound. Slowly as the play increases it shifts to 4th and then 5th gear.Effects of not changing the counter gear bearing is that slowly all gears will wear out.And while changing gears always change in pairs i.e change the corresponding gear and counter gear. Suppose 3rd counter gear is worn. Then change the 3rd counter gear and 3rd gear.So for both of you when you open the engine change the following items when you open the engine:-1.Counter gear bearing2. Main gear bearing3. corresponding gears making noise- as a set as i have explained-change only the gears that is making noise and not all gearscheck if the counter shaft or main shaft is bend as change suitably.First of all vibrations because it is a new engine. When i first bought my extreme i thought why i bought it as it vibrated very bad. My Joy is the smoothest bike that i have ever ridden. It is still smoother than my extreme even at 80+ speeds.But at 6500 km my extreme has smoothen out so much that it do not even have 1% vibrations as it had when new.You can use DC set-up on your bike to power 60/55 watt bulb. For That no need to buy rectifier or do coil rewinding. Just take out the yellow wire from the rectifier socket. No need to cut the wire, just use a jeweler screwdriver and pull out the female connector from the socket. Buy a suitable male connector and fit it in that connector and connect it to DC line which is after the ignition switch. In this way you can easily revert to stock as when required remove the wire and push the yellow wire with connector inside the rectifier clip.No need to change rectifier as the stock rectifier will easily power the battery without any problem.Just connect the yellow wire in the rectifier to DC supply after ignition switch. Disconnect the rectifier AC output, i.e pull out the yellow wire. By doing this always remember to maintain above 2.5k rpm always and switch off the headlight when at traffic stop and just use pilot lamp in stop like cars do. Also use LED in pilot lamps.

Me too need to know.....
Ekm biker are you using 60/55w in ur cbz extreme with stock ac set up or dc setup?
if dc , then did you just reconnected the wire from alternator or changed rr unit? please explain a little.

Simply changed the stock 35/35 and fixed 60/55 watts bulb, as I had a spare, but a cheap company.Next time when in Bangalore I will try for philips or osram .

The new extreme have Phillips Germany bulbs. Those bulbs you can see they are thinner and are more brighter and focus good. You can go for those.Available at all service center for Rs.220. Be sure to ask for Germany bulbs and open to see if they are thinner bulbs.No, 20W 40 decreases mileage and it has been experimented by me. 20W 40 also makes the engine gruff although it may sound smooth but the engine running will be as if it is restrained by something. Ask sarbonoxly who changed from 20W 40 to 10W 30 by my advice. Your engine is consuming oil and on the verge of re-built, so you do not feel difference. Re-built the engine and you will immediately know the difference. His engine is a new engine and thus his mileage decreased drastically. As i have told it is the counter bearing. As you know behind the front sprocket there is an oil seal and the counter shaft comes out which is mounted with the front sprocket. If you pop out the oil seal of front sprocket, you can see the counter bearing. But unfortunately you cannot take out the bearing from outside and whole engine has to be opened.So when you open change the counter bearing.Another member who has sound in 3rd and 4th gear, he has also the same problem.Why it is causing the problem, because when the wheel is loaded the chain loads the front sprocket angularly towards the back. So the bearing is loaded. If the bearing is good then no sound, but if the bearing is faulty what happens is that it will push the counter gears on the main gear and thus will put enormous pressure on the main gear shaft. Why it happens in third gear?It happens in third gear first because:-First let me explain how gears are stacked- The counter gear is supported by the counter bearing near the front sprocket and the main gears are supported by main gear bearing through which the shaft passes and the clutch is fitted. The gears are arranged such that the first gear lies near the left casing and fifth gear lies near the center casing. So the counter shaft is supported at the left casing and the main shaft at the center casing. So when 1st,2nd gear are used then the counter shaft has support nearby and thus doesn't deflect much and thus no sound.When 4th and 5th gears are used then support is on main shaft near the middle casing and thus no sound.Since 3rd gear is in middle it deflects more and cause the sound. Slowly as the play increases it shifts to 4th and then 5th gear.Effects of not changing the counter gear bearing is that slowly all gears will wear out.And while changing gears always change in pairs i.e change the corresponding gear and counter gear. Suppose 3rd counter gear is worn. Then change the 3rd counter gear and 3rd gear.So for both of you when you open the engine change the following items when you open the engine:-1.Counter gear bearing2. Main gear bearing3. corresponding gears making noise- as a set as i have explained-change only the gears that is making noise and not all gearscheck if the counter shaft or main shaft is bend as change suitably.First of all vibrations because it is a new engine. When i first bought my extreme i thought why i bought it as it vibrated very bad. My Joy is the smoothest bike that i have ever ridden. It is still smoother than my extreme even at 80+ speeds.But at 6500 km my extreme has smoothen out so much that it do not even have 1% vibrations as it had when new.You can use DC set-up on your bike to power 60/55 watt bulb. For That no need to buy rectifier or do coil rewinding. Just take out the yellow wire from the rectifier socket. No need to cut the wire, just use a jeweler screwdriver and pull out the female connector from the socket. Buy a suitable male connector and fit it in that connector and connect it to DC line which is after the ignition switch. In this way you can easily revert to stock as when required remove the wire and push the yellow wire with connector inside the rectifier clip.No need to change rectifier as the stock rectifier will easily power the battery without any problem.Just connect the yellow wire in the rectifier to DC supply after ignition switch. Disconnect the rectifier AC output, i.e pull out the yellow wire. By doing this always remember to maintain above 2.5k rpm always and switch off the headlight when at traffic stop and just use pilot lamp in stop like cars do. Also use LED in pilot lamps.

1) If we going to run 60/55w in cbz stock ac setup, shall we need to turn off light at traffic signal stopping?

2) which 60/55w is good for bike ac setup for good vision?

3) and my another doubt is h4 bulb direct fit to our HS1 holder?

Sibun is correct i didnt like the 20W 40 oil in my Xtreme ...my bike only like 10W grade after the new bore install.

@satson whenever the compression is gone and the bike is drinking oil if you put in slightly thicker oil the bike feels like its running way smoother than before....even the honda 10w 30 oil felt like motul 300V before my engine rebuild lol ....as soon as you rebuild and the compression comes back the same oil feels like just normal oil...i noticed this 2 times as my bike has lost comepression more than 3 times and it was drinking oil like yours....even sibun said it was a correct observation .

@sibun that was a very informative post thanks....yean the shell feels smoother than HONDA genuine oil and the gear shift has become very smooth to operate...i noticed this immediately.

@Ekm biker 3 turns is too much rich brother...i wont go above 2 ....one head mech told me upto 2.15 turns out is fine ...i feel the correct tune is like 1.7-2 .

1)- no need of switching off light when running on AC.
2)- Any car head bulb will do. Get OSRAM,Philips, or HALONIX. If you have a car then there will be spare bulb, use it.
3)- Yes H4 bulb is a direct fit to our bike which has HS1 bulb. But reverse is not possible i.e fitting HS1 to H4 socket but fitting H4 to HS1 is childs play.just open the HS1 bulb and plonk in the H4 bulb.

Be careful, never touch the glass part of the halogen bulbs. Use a clean cloth to hold the bulb when touching the glass part.

Yes, what you and Sibun said should be right.
But I have seen 20W40 being recommended by many xbhp ians for HH bikes. Any way I can't comment till my engine is rebuilt.
Actually I thought of trying 20W40 hoping it will give better sealing between my worn piston and bore, considering its thicker. So far so good

Kancheepuram is your place right? Had a nice time at Vedanthangal and Kancheepuram man, 220km round trip. Good roads, cool climate, farms, fields, temples....

thanks sibun today i am going to buy 60/55w for my cbz extreme....

@Ekm biker 3 turns is too much rich brother...i wont go above 2 ....one head mech told me upto 2.15 turns out is fine ...i feel the correct tune is like 1.7-2 .