thanks a lot my dear friend. let me try....

1) what will be cost of the new alternator/stator of cbz ?


2) is rewinding coil voids my 30k kms engine warranty?

1. Why do you want to know cost of alternator and stator. Nothing to worry. These things are not that require replacement unless and until physically damaged. The coil set cost Rs.585
2. Yes, rewinding the coil voids engine warranty.No need to rewind. If you follow my steps for modifying the coil then when you require you can convert to stock.

For this no need of rewinding just follow my steps and do not touch the OE wiring.
1. Open the coil base and see the coil is grounded at two place. UN ground the coils and join both the grounded portion.By this you are making the coil as single unit and not dividing into AC and DC.
2. Now open both the ends of coil that is connected to stock wiring and de-solder the OE wiring.
3. Now solder two wires to both the ends of coil and take out through the Passage by taping it by the side of OE wiring.
4. Secure the wires in the coil base so that they do not foul with the magnet. Also tape the ends of de-soldered wire and the point where you joined the coils. Just secure them so that they do not foul with magnet nor leak current.
5. Now use Ape rectifier and connect two wires to input of rectifier.
6. Connect the output to battery. Ground the negative at one place of chassis.
7. Now pull out the stock rectifier and connectors. Two wires will be input which you can identify from the colors as you have disconnected it from the magnet.
8. Now see the rest two wires. Yellow is AC to headlight and the other is DC to battery.
9. Leave the three and connect the AC as i mentioned in previous post through a relay.

This will ensure your alternator pumps all 140 watts to battery. Nothing to worry as 140 watts is at 2.5k rpm.

When you revert back to stock then remove the extra wiring, solder the OE wiring as previously, ground the two points of coil, use stock RR and connect the connectors. Nobody can know what you did.

@all- check the new ad of extreme that i have posted. I like the wheelie that he did after the stoppie. In fact i like it because it is not straight line wheelie but he turns the bike by wheeling and steering by his left leg.

@Sibun today changed my brake fluid to DOT4 ...SC said they dont have DOT 4 fluid so went to this 4 wheeler spare parts shop and got this product :



There is a jiggling sound from the disk brake after oil change....the local mech is saying the brake pads are making the jiggling noise ....i too think so as when ever i press the front lever slightly the jiggling sound goes away...showed it to another mech he opened and inspected the shoe and he too says the brake shoe has little play and thats why its making the jiggling noise and he says he can pour some more brake fluid but it will make the brake shoe come in contact with the plate...he is saying i can safely ride it like this nothing will happen but i am worried .

Check whether the oil is filled till Max mark and if it is above min mark then do not fill. Brake pads will always have free play and by forcing to decrease free play by overfilling oil will damage the master cylinder piston.
The problem is not in free play but somewhere else which the mechanic cannot deduce.

The problem is in the small metal strip which is found in caliper. You can see it in caliper below the brake pads. That is a spring which pushes the pads up and stops jiggling. Solution is to get a new metal strip and fit it. Get it from service center and cost is Rs.51.

Sibun wheres this MAX and min mark etched may i ask ?

This is the strip they put in and over which the two brake shoes are placed right ? i mean a metal thing popped out as soon as the brake shoes were removed ...thats the one right...it was about 2 inches long approx. ?

One more thing will riding with this jiggling sound will cause damage to caliper ?

I ride a CBZ Xtrme, done approx 40,000 kms.... No problem at all! Happy with that.
Although, The bike started boggling sideways on the curves while leaning... changed the foundation bush at a mere 70rs and the handling was back!
Now using a Michelin Sirac Street... Giving great off-road and highway grip.

@ sibun i missed your post now only i saw it. thanks alot my friend. i think i need to go for auto electrical mechanic shop.

last time you said that just pull out yellow from rr and connect to dc is it a good for 60w/55w bulb to light ?

See in the glass window at the master cylinder near handle bar. There will be a line and written MIN. See that the glass window is full of oil or at-least above the line marked MIN.

Yes, that is the strip. If that thing popped out, that means it has lost its tension. Change that metal strip and it pushes the pad apart. It will cost only Rs.51. The old cbz and karizma which has same caliper, the metal strip cost Rs.150.
There is no problem in riding, but the sound is irritating.

Yes, the old method is sufficient but this is the method to completely convert into DC and using the whole coil base to charge battery. The old method is cheapest to use and is absolutely ok to use 60/55.
The new method is for increasing the charge to battery.

Ok problem solved at SC in 10 mins...the metal strip was installed in the middle it should have been little lower the mech said....checked the oil level and topped it up a little....these local mechs some of them 20+ years experience..... one guy i showed my ride yesterday was in charge of service in this big HH SC lol....they dont even know how to install a small metal clip properly...i am shocked ...how come they are able to open an engine without goofing up

This DOT4 fluid is transparent its kinda hard to see the fluid level .

Hey Guys

i just changed my mass cylinder kbx to BYBRE ( From pulsar as i said ) the braking effect is pretty good now

That's good news. How much did it cost? Also, does it provide any real feedback? The Pulsars I've ridden had sharp brakes but absolutely no feedback. So it was hard to gauge when the tyres would lock.

Also, a few more general questions:

• Can we change our handle bar grips to that of the R15/FZ? Not for fashion, but for function. The handle bar grips on the FZ/R15 are of top class quality and offer good grip on the throttle, our is a little slip prone in that department especially after it rains. Or any other grips that will fit properly and are made from good, grippy rubber?
• Can we put 100/90 tyres up front and 110/90 tyres at the back? Both 18 inch. I'm asking because I'm sure that a few CBZ/Hunk owners might be interested in Pirelli Sport Demons for their bikes, but are not sure if the 100/90 and 110/90 will fit on their bikes. The 110/90 should not really be an issue as SatSon has a similar setup AFAIK. But I'm not sure about the front. I'm sure the mileage will drop a little, what other change(s) can be expected by upsizing?

I doubt if the improvement is due to the new master cylinder piston, as your old piston would've worn resulting in pressure leakage.

no man, i recently changed my mass cylinder with original major kit from HERO HONDA after that no improvement in braking same as old days

BYBRE mass cylinders are oversized than KBX i think, thats why the flow of brake fluid is better than KBX

and i am using forged levers (for front brake and clutch) its looks better

in my place there is no availability for CASTROL BRAKE FLUID DOT4, so i am using DOT3 now
is there any one knows where i can buy DOT4 brake fluid in KERALA-THRISSUR

actually its from pulsar 220 version , it has no mirror thread for fixing a mirror , i bought it from a second dealer in thrissur- kerala

because of that mirror thread problem i am going to buy the BYBRE mass cylinder from pulsar 150-180 versions

it costed 500 for buy it from the second hand dealer there is no lever an the pushing rad just the mass cyinder

@vineeshvv Instead of going for a complete brake system change, you could have just changed your brake pads and bought a pair of 'asbestos brake pads'. Ours are fitted with non-asbestos type - that is least harmful to the environment, etc. etc. You could have easily felt the 'sharp' difference!


Of course, front disks are becoming standard on most bikes today but IMO the real fun lies in having disk brakes on both the wheels! Just my experience.