Wont it burn my reflector or front glass??i hav a spare maruti 800 55W bulb at my home,can i use it? will it work on my stock wiring as somewhere i read that our wiring doesnt support 55W bulb for longer time,it will burn soon . will give it a try 4 sure to see the difference and report back here

Brother ,If a problem is there it will be from beginning to end not after 50 km/hr. so you have no problem on your gear wheels . You are running little lean .Tune your Air/fuel screw anti clock wise 1/2 or 1 turn.and report .
@saurabh
Wont it burn my reflector or front glass??i hav a spare maruti 800 55W bulb at my home,can i use it? will it work on my stock wiring as somewhere i read that our wiring doesnt support 55W bulb for longer time,it will burn soon . will give it a try 4 sure to see the difference and report back here.

I am using 60/55 bulb of maruti for the last 3 or 4 months A max of 3 hrs continuous I used it at night and have not faced any problems.

Lighting dilemmas galore!

This 'light' dilemma has been going on for pretty long. Is there no way out to enhance our hunk/xtreme lighting systems without manipulating the stock wiring?
Waiting for your test and reviews following that.

@Sibun: Some details of Osram night breake...pl

My mileage decreased drastically from 48-50 to 40-42 kmpl. I didn't try sudden acceleration / deacceleration, didn't touch 60kmph and using a lot less clutch, changing gears at 4-4.5k rpm and still i've bad mileage. Guess it's my engine oil ?? I've been using Gulf 20w 40 for over 1200 kms ( since last service ) and this oil could last upto 10k kms ( as advertised on bottle ).

I've covered almost 5800 kms till now, shall i change the oil to switch to semi synthetic / synthetic oil or keep that oil for another 5k-6k kms? Since 20w 40 oil is thick fluid, i believed it'll suppress the engine vibrations but it's opposite. I can feel immense vibrations at 50-70 kmph and it's very unpleasant to ride like this. If i drive at 45-48, then vibes are minimal ( tingling in nature ), but then it looks like it'll take forever to cover 30-35km distance. Any solution guys ?

Keep running but more with 10 w 30 mineral , 20 w 40 's personal experience is not good for mileage or vibe. Don't expect 10 k for any oil though it is an ad. Later change to shell AX-7 (10w40) @ Rs 320/- / Ltr and after 10 k can try FS like servo 4T synth (10w30) @ Rs 575/- / Ltr.

First servicing is coming ..
Confused which oil to be used?
10w30 mineral or any other synthetic , semi synthetic oil ?
450 kms on Odo.

Stick to mineral oil for now. Shift to Semi Synthetic at 5k or something and Fully Synthetic at 10k.

Thank you very much .

I had a good trip this weekend, Chennai-Vedanthangal-Kanjeepuram and the total distance was around 220km. The Hunk was performaing really nice (though the engine work is not yet done and it is still smoking!). I had new Shell 20W40 mineral oil in it. Most of the time we were cruising around 60kmph occasionally touching 70 and the nice seats and suspension giving no stress to back/spines the whole day(the pillion, my friend may not be happy though ). And for the first time I got 50km/L mileage.

And as soon as I hit highways on our way back in th evening, the poor headlight started giving troubles. And the TVS XLs around(there are so many here in Chennai) have way way better illumination.
As Bloggingwheels pointed out, this was discussed several times, only solution so far found is going DC. Suggestion of trying higher Watt bulb needs yet to be tried, tested and proven.
And I noticedd the new CBX Xtremes having a very decent illumination, did the lighting improve? All - your observations?

If you are driving sane, and don't even touch 60kmph, there could be some other reason for this drastic drop in mileage.

In the earlier posts of this thread, you can see many people recommending 20W40, as HH itself was suggesting it for their Karizmas and all in the beginning. Better mileage was the main reason they shifted to 10W30, many say. Even Sibun, EKM-biker all confirmed that 20W40 decreases the mileage.
But my personal experience with Shell 20W40 mineral so far is good, less vibes, no drop in mileage.

But one thing, don't rely on your oil for 5k and all(I believe its mineral oil) change it around 2k-2.5k.

@Sibun,
I am also having a noise from my Hunk's third gear the day I got it (It is a second hand bike and it had run 20k kms then). I couldnt hear it during test ride, but was very audible later onwards. And there is no noise while the bike is on center stand and rev high on third gear, its only on road with load.
But if the reason is anything else, then why the noise only in third gear, please advise.

Me too need to know.....
Ekm biker are you using 60/55w in ur cbz extreme with stock ac set up or dc setup?
if dc , then did you just reconnected the wire from alternator or changed rr unit? please explain a little.

Me to....Is there any one bulb that we can directly swap with stock one..??
Or we need to change to DC...Or something different...

Today as i was driving down the highway...I touched 60km/hr for while..It felt like i was driving an Apache...So much vibes and engine noise..Though at 40kmhr its a completely different story...

890 km on odo... on avg 54km/L

Plz help ...

[QUOTE=ekm-biker;895778]Brother ,If a problem is there it will be from beginning to end not after 50 km/hr. so you have no problem on your gear wheels . You are running little lean .Tune your Air/fuel screw anti clock wise 1/2 or 1 turn.and report .
@saurabh
Wont it burn my reflector or front glass??i hav a spare maruti 800 55W bulb at my home,can i use it? will it work on my stock wiring as somewhere i read that our wiring doesnt support 55W bulb for longer time,it will burn soon . will give it a try 4 sure to see the difference and report back here.

Have you used a relay for the headlights? You may notice that the light throw is lower when you connect it directly on dc. I also used HID in my cbz earlier but u have to drive it above 3k or else it will not support battery charging. Even you have used HID and might have observed these things. My battery used to last for around 45 mins to 1 hour in bumper to bumper traffic. But when driven in highways at around >4k rpm, it can last all night. Thanks to its meager 4 amp batt. So, for using the 55/60 watt bulb, either you'll have to rewind the coil and use ape rr to increase the charging rate, or else you'll have to drive at higher rpm in city traffic. But no issues on highways whatsoever. But if you have observed, when using the pass light switch, the headlight glows in its full intensity, whereas just converting the headlight directly to dc (like as u did in your case) it doesnot glow in its full intensity. That is due to relay connected in between in the pass light. As you might have noticed the 'tik' sound of the relay while pressing the pass light switch, thats the relay coming into play. So if you want your headlight to glow in its full intensity in ac, then make sure u have a relay connected in your headlight wiring.

Hope this helps.
Cheers.

The new extreme have Phillips Germany bulbs. Those bulbs you can see they are thinner and are more brighter and focus good. You can go for those.Available at all service center for Rs.220. Be sure to ask for Germany bulbs and open to see if they are thinner bulbs.No, 20W 40 decreases mileage and it has been experimented by me. 20W 40 also makes the engine gruff although it may sound smooth but the engine running will be as if it is restrained by something. Ask sarbonoxly who changed from 20W 40 to 10W 30 by my advice. Your engine is consuming oil and on the verge of re-built, so you do not feel difference. Re-built the engine and you will immediately know the difference. His engine is a new engine and thus his mileage decreased drastically. As i have told it is the counter bearing. As you know behind the front sprocket there is an oil seal and the counter shaft comes out which is mounted with the front sprocket. If you pop out the oil seal of front sprocket, you can see the counter bearing. But unfortunately you cannot take out the bearing from outside and whole engine has to be opened.So when you open change the counter bearing.Another member who has sound in 3rd and 4th gear, he has also the same problem.Why it is causing the problem, because when the wheel is loaded the chain loads the front sprocket angularly towards the back. So the bearing is loaded. If the bearing is good then no sound, but if the bearing is faulty what happens is that it will push the counter gears on the main gear and thus will put enormous pressure on the main gear shaft. Why it happens in third gear?It happens in third gear first because:-First let me explain how gears are stacked- The counter gear is supported by the counter bearing near the front sprocket and the main gears are supported by main gear bearing through which the shaft passes and the clutch is fitted. The gears are arranged such that the first gear lies near the left casing and fifth gear lies near the center casing. So the counter shaft is supported at the left casing and the main shaft at the center casing. So when 1st,2nd gear are used then the counter shaft has support nearby and thus doesn't deflect much and thus no sound.When 4th and 5th gears are used then support is on main shaft near the middle casing and thus no sound.Since 3rd gear is in middle it deflects more and cause the sound. Slowly as the play increases it shifts to 4th and then 5th gear.Effects of not changing the counter gear bearing is that slowly all gears will wear out.And while changing gears always change in pairs i.e change the corresponding gear and counter gear. Suppose 3rd counter gear is worn. Then change the 3rd counter gear and 3rd gear.So for both of you when you open the engine change the following items when you open the engine:-1.Counter gear bearing2. Main gear bearing3. corresponding gears making noise- as a set as i have explained-change only the gears that is making noise and not all gearscheck if the counter shaft or main shaft is bend as change suitably.First of all vibrations because it is a new engine. When i first bought my extreme i thought why i bought it as it vibrated very bad. My Joy is the smoothest bike that i have ever ridden. It is still smoother than my extreme even at 80+ speeds.But at 6500 km my extreme has smoothen out so much that it do not even have 1% vibrations as it had when new.You can use DC set-up on your bike to power 60/55 watt bulb. For That no need to buy rectifier or do coil rewinding. Just take out the yellow wire from the rectifier socket. No need to cut the wire, just use a jeweler screwdriver and pull out the female connector from the socket. Buy a suitable male connector and fit it in that connector and connect it to DC line which is after the ignition switch. In this way you can easily revert to stock as when required remove the wire and push the yellow wire with connector inside the rectifier clip.No need to change rectifier as the stock rectifier will easily power the battery without any problem.Just connect the yellow wire in the rectifier to DC supply after ignition switch. Disconnect the rectifier AC output, i.e pull out the yellow wire. By doing this always remember to maintain above 2.5k rpm always and switch off the headlight when at traffic stop and just use pilot lamp in stop like cars do. Also use LED in pilot lamps.