Guys what do you think of these 'ADON' fuel additives provided now a days on every Indian Oil petrol station provided by Total. (Details on the pics)
I know Sibun highly recommends Iftex System 2 3, just wondering if these really cheap additives are of any real use (rs.6 per pc.)
Tried one of those but no diff in fuel economy was observed. Dosage is 5ml for 5 litres.

My ride is 12K old,nobody told me to change it so far.1 member says its changed @ 10K u say its 6K,though its not so costly but still,will change it with ASK/ANL if i could get them. will change the disc pads as well,its BREMBO which is recommended isn't it ?
wat should be the cost of both brake pads change?

I already felt the need of 6th gear @ >50kmph and >6K.i hope it works.wont it stress our engine as is advised to not to play with sprocket.i have cleaned my front sprocket once but i doubt i would be able to replace it with a slightly bigger one.where can we get this unicorn Sprocket? in HONDA SVC ??


One more thing my chain gets loose every 8-10 days,why is so,one mech said my chain is almost gone.they adjust the rear wheel nut and again after few days chain starts giving sound with the chain guards while turning . due to this i am planning for open chain cover like P180 etc. What side effects it might have.(10-15% less life of chain is tolerable to me).but then i can at-least i can clean once in a while more easily

Regards

My bike's Oil Change is due soon and I want to try something new and something different. Somehow, the 750 odd I've been paying for Top1 Evolutions FS oil doesn't seem to be VFM. I've had a look and looks like Motul 300V and Petronas Sprinta 10W40 are good for the ZMAs. 10W30 is recommended for the Hunk, but should 10W40 be ok as well?

Nope, Nissin in the recommended brand for the rear.


The front costs 300 odd and the rear cost me 1.2k


Won't stress your engine, will make it's load easier to be honest. You can also look at higher mileage figures considering you won't have to shift gears so often.

A half naked chain case looks good, but with our X-Ring chains, not a very good idea. You will bring down the life of the chain considerably. My recommendation is for you to change to the CB Dazzler's chain and then get rid of the chain case.

change it every 10K and if you buy it from the showroom it will be costly - both front and rear will cost you less than Rs 300 .
Yeah me going to the honda showroom in kanchipuram to get the sprocket - hope they sell it separately unlike hero which sells it as kit only

Driving with a open chain is a bad idea me thinks - dont go by what some local mechanic says take it to a good SC and politely ask the head mech to solve your problems - if he does a good job then dont forget to tip him .

1.2k for the rear pads are you sure ?



if it will make the engine run with less stress then tats really good and yes i need to shift gears a lot inside towns .

I will do this mod as soon as i get back - going to some far off place this week - when i come back this is the first thing i will do .

Whats the difference and when does our chain need replacement. will go for the mentioned one.will it be costlier than the stock one ?? price/performance difference??

Xtreme-11 Brake change

is ANL even better than ASK and far far better than stock one ? price ?
I inquired a spare parts shop for the brakes. they had ASK for both front and rear. With a yellow packing cover but it HERO HONDA SPLENDOR was mentioned on it.Rs 145 printed. is this what u hav in ur ride??,as u told me here to use ASK in rear for the highly improved braking. they had ASK for the front too.total cost(incl. labor) was told 365 rs. i guess the charges are OK,but are these ASK pads the one which should give me better braking bite ?? (especially at rear,coz my rear brake suckss )

Some of the pointers to worn chain and need for replacement -
- when there are tight links at one end and loose links at other
- the sprockets worn and tooth have sharp ends
- the sprocket tooth become hook shaped

Always go for sprocket + chain (whole kit) replacement.

For details of using dazzler chain usage in Hunk, see this link
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...tml#post812702

Price was 1100 odd. Only the chain that is. Get the rear sprocket of the Hunk if possible and the front sprocket of the Unicorn. Performance, not sure man. I got the chain, but haven't put it in yet. Because there's a little more life left in the chain. The chain needs to be changed once you reach the last adjustment.

Agreed.

Sibun Ji, can the upper part of the chain cover of the new xtreme be taken out without having to take out the rear wheel? Coz in the new Hunk, it is not possible. The best you can do is - take out the lower half, clean the chain and sprocket (in half-view) and then lube it accordingly. All the gunk thrown off and collected (& stuck) underneath the upper part of the chain cannot be cleaned unless you take off the rear wheel and then dismantle the upper chain cover part.
Regarding the change in sprocketing - it was a wonderful tech update that you shared! Eagerly awaiting some extended test ride, fuel consumption, acceleration and top end highway run reports!

Then your chain tension is not proper. Get it done from an experienced mechanic. From my experience, open chains with all the dirt and grease that they collect over rides; not worth increasing your headache and cleaning frequency of the same. It is generally recommended that covered chains be cleaned and lubed in 500 - 600 kms. Considering that you ride 20 kms a day, that is within a month. Why unnecessarily take hassles to increase the cleaning frequency/lubing frequency, not to mention the decrease in chain and sprocket life that you bargain for - in the open chain cover deal! Makes sense?

Dude, if you're in real mood for some real good oil, cost of it notwithstading. Try the Mobil 1 10W40. One of the members having a karizma ZMR whom I know all too personally is using it and it is one fantastic oil! I have test ridden his ZMR and found HUGE difference in the way the bike responds, esp the throttle response and smoothness. For a 1Lt bottle, it is ~1000 INR! Have fun! Take the pic attached as a reference.


ARE YOU SURE?????? 1.3k for rear brake pads??? AFAIK Nissin is the brand of the rear disk brake setup but pads are of a different make. 1.3k is TOO much for a pair of rear disk pads for our bikes. Going by the cost you've mentioned, it roughly equals ~ 2% the cost of our bikes!!

Doesn't a closed loop chain, as given in the link, have a lesser life than our chains? Also, it is quite an EXERCISE to have it changed/replaced!


Guys, I went for a short night ride yesterday on NH2 under the beautiful moonlit night sky! I had a pillion and was doing constant speeds of 75 - 80 kmph. While on the return leg, I just randomly checked my carb drain tube and found it a little wet (with petrol) at the open end. The other fellow riders suggested me to have the card opened and the jets cleaned. (No tuning required). However, this is the first time I saw it like that. And my bike not having undergone even the 3rd Free Service (did 3500kms), I'm apprehensive about having my carb dismantled and fiddled with. I need some serious inputs here guys. Pinaki ji, Sibun ji, PSR sir, other respected members - any insights please?
Also I would like to point out here that though my Hunk is doing the same speeds it did earlier in respective RPMs, from the past 1 week, at speeds above 60, the engine seems stressed. Sometimes, I think that I need to upshift only to realize that there is not another gear beyond the 5th gear. I felt this need only at speeds above 90 previously. (Though it always seems that the Hunk misses a 6th gear anyday). Mileage figures are ok 40-45 ish. No other problems, chain is clean and lubed, air filter is clean. I'm a bit puzzled with this bike's current condition.

My Splendor's carb drain tube-end used to be wet like that after a year or so of use . I took out the carb and cleaned it and the problem is gone .
Cleaning the carb is not such a complicated task .. I too was scared since it was my first time .. but in hindsight I can say that it is a rather simple service . Ask everyone for advice and read up about the carburetor type you are going to handle(gather as much info as you can) , collect the few simple tools you'd need .. and then one weekend, do it .
Tuning it correctly afterwards is the trickiest part , best is to go to a Hero ASC and let them do the tuning afterwards . Usually they won't even charge you anything for tuning it .

The main thing is always use good quality screw drivers while dealing with carburetor.Using low quality tools will deform the screws easily.

My previous bore 80% of its life has run on uber expensive fully synthetic oil only (motul 300V) - if you ask me going for FS oil is just waste of money - oil guru racoon used to tell me the same back then i didnt listen to him -but now i learned it the hard way - you can even get a new bore kit from the money you waste on FS oil - i know many here in xbhp love FS oils even i used to be one of them but not anymore .

For the record that Mobil 10w40 is one great oil .

Someone in unicorn thread had mailed honda and they replied saying not to use FS oil in uni . - i believe both uni and Xtreme share the same engine .