Well the point is , even ay higher temperatures , you want your oil to retain the viscosity and be a liquid and not evaporate.
w50 grade oil tends to retain the viscosity even at higher temperatures compared to w40 or w30.

Yes that's the most important thing... how you love and maintain your bike

by the way i dont like unicorn.... so .. its out of question...

So if this screw is closed (as normal), then, only the excess petrol will come out thorugh the overflow tube, right?

Yes, I've felt the need of a 6th gear sometimes, may be rather than a 6th gear they would've given bit lower ratio for top gear. I dont know about the case of XTreme, I never rode one.

I'm using Chrome only(IE in office) and I replied to PM's in Chrome, but didnt work. And I've only 3 PM's.

@sarbanoxley - is your inbox full then?

What other bikes are you looking at ? do test ride every bike , not only hunk /cbz .

would appreciate a 6th gear and a fuel injector for xtreme .

I ve dreamt of having a projector xenon lights , FI , a bit more power output from the engine and a kill switch too.

All these features in xtreme would make it the best selling bike in 150cc category. What do u guys feel ?

Thanks for the advice and valid points.
I need to get this fixed soon, may be next month.
I do ensure the oil never falls below the min. mark, so hope I can ride like this for 1 more month.

when ever i used to leave my bike for service at the ASC , they say they have replaced the oil and tie an empty engine oil can to the saree guard using an old dirty plastic cover , saying its a "proof".

May be my experience with HH 10w30 oil was bad, but i loved the shell semi synthetic 10w40 . A lot of my friends have used 10w50 oils on their bike and they have never complained about losing top speed or anything else.

In fact they all said engine was a lot smoother after using it.

you removed the rear view mirrors too !

my xtreme has completed 1.2k and recently i noticed a clicking sound from rear(chain?)....the clicking sound is mostly heard during corners and at low speeds but at higher speeds no sounds are present.....

at first i thought loose chain to be the culprit hence tightened and greased the chain at local mech ....the sound has reduced but is still present.....

anyone else experiencing the same?...

Sorry for late replies to everyone , came home late .
That is all well , but as you go on to using heavier and heavier oil(read more viscous) to manage the heat .. the engine gets to contend with a negative force . Parasitic drag . This is the dragging frictional loss of power in the engine internally owing to it's parts moving in oil . This is what makes a 20w50 oil make the engine rev less freely and lose fuel miles by a couple of kms . Not that 0w30 hasn't any , it too has it but a lot less than say 10w30 . Least parasitic drag would be if the engine could work with air only and no oil , but alas !
So we have to find the right balance of cost,ambient temperature,engine-lubrication,parasitic-drag and our intended usage of the engine .
By my feelings , regular mineral 20w40 grade or 10w40 grade suffices for ordinary street uses I put my bike in during the main seasons in my locale (greater Indian plains) ... I would dare say does splendidly too .
Going for 10w50,15w50 or 20w50 would produce unacceptable amount of that parasitic thing for me , I concluded .


Satson'Jee is right - it is kinda difficult to illustrate it with pics since it's a 3 dimension thing . It shall become so simple to understand after you have opened and cleaned only the float bowl once . I shall try to explain it in very simple language .
The drain hole at the bottom of the float bowl has two sources . i) one that is stoppered by the drain screw ii) a long brass snorkel kinda tube which stands straight up and up to the level where the float bowl meets the carburetor main body (the top of this tube is open) . So fuel will flow out and drain the float bowl empty i) when the drain screw is unscrewed ii) when the fuel level in the float bowl goes above the top of the snorkel like upright tube (which it never should normally) . Of course, the snorkel tube doesn't drain the bowl empty, but just to the level of it's open top end . If the fuel petcock is open at that time , the float shall fall low in the bowl and open the float valve , refilling the bowl with new fuel from tank . This cycle going on untill the supply from fuel tank thru the petcock ends .
Consider the cistern in your toilet which has a similar mechanism . It also has a float and valve which cyclically refills the cistern with fresh water from overhead tank . It also has a small opening at a high level on the wall of the cistern , to overflow excess water above that level .

I feel the same so many times.After tightening the chain it disappear but few days later its back there. also my chain gets loose every now and then

From where are you buying the bottle da? I have not bought it yet, but intend to. And AFAIK it was around ~220-240 INR (at least in Kolkata), nearly the same as HH OE oil. (Cheap)Orange coloured bottle

Armed with your words and insight, I believe I can open the carb myself and do some basic cleaning. Thanks!

hmm.. i kinda agree , If 10w30 is too thin and 10w50 is too thick , is 10w40 ideal ?

i ve never faced such problems , did you try with the ASC ?