My bike is not getting started now! I started my Hunk at the office basement in the evening, it started I just put first gear and moved.... kinda missing and bike stopped ! Tried electric start 7-8 times after that battery went off, tried kick start but no luck, tried using choke, tried after stopping fuel, but nothing worked. Tried push starting no luck, took plug out, was oily, cleaned and checked for spark, all fine...

Put plug back, cranked, smoke comes out of silencer each time, but its not getting started.
Petrol problem / compression issue / something else ?

Ideal is what works for you . 10w40 would work nicely for rather new engines . My cbz-x is old and 20w40 feels best in it, particularly during the high summer . During it's initial years it was running whatever the ASC filled , I dunno .


.

would appreciate a 6th gear and a fuel injector for xtreme .

I ve dreamt of having a projector xenon lights , FI , a bit more power output from the engine and a kill switch too.

All these features in xtreme would make it the best selling bike in 150cc category. What do u guys feel ?

hmm.. i kinda agree , If 10w30 is too thin and 10w50 is too thick , is 10w40 ideal ?

@ All
1. My chain adjuster has reached its limit and chain is loose. Isnt it possible to remove a couple of links from the chain and bring the adjuster to the front..? Heard someone here saying once adjster reaches its limit, chain must be replaced. (Odo - 15.5K )
If your chain has elongated but your rear sprocket is correct then just cut the chain by two links. Check the rear sprocket and if the teeth are not worn out change the front sprocket and cut the chain by two links. Go for unicorn front sprocket from diamond or ROLON.
2. Is nitrogen filling worth the premium..? My tyres loose air like 10 psi in two weeks.
So will it be a good idea to fill nitrogen..?
If your tire is loosing pressure then get it checked. Usually corrosion between rims and tyre walls is the reason. Go to a MRF showroom and check the tire seal and if possible use tyre and rim sealant. Your pressure reduction problem will solve. Of course filling nitrogen will prevent corrosion as it is an inert gas.My extreme which is a tubeless model, i have deflated completely and filled nitrogen the day i took delivery. I check pressure every month only once and still pressure doesn't decrease. Heck even in my joy which is a tube tyre and i fill normal air pressure doesn't decrease even when checking once a month.
So i advice you to take to mrf care and Check the rim sealing issue.

Decreasing air pressure seems to be another common isssue with xtreme's tubeless tyres .

No, it is not a common issue. Go to any MRF dealer and tell them to seal the rim and tell them to do a good work or i will not pay.

@ Senior Members (Pinaki sir/Sibun/EKM-Biker/Aneesh ) is it possible for new chain sets to get busted so early.(almost an year). what brand we look for replacement. and what type of chain is suited for open chain case(in case we[me ] plan to do so. i guess i should change the front sprocket with unicorn (as mentioned few pages back) along with the chain.

So in total i am due for some work :
Both front/rear brake pads
Chain Set
Front sprocket
Carb Cleaning
Tappet Noise Check/adjustment

Should i do it at good outside mech as i hardly trust SVC guys,dont know what parts they will use. and what should be the brand recommendations/approx cost for all these items/work.

yes I've heard of that...but some financial constraints..

But... !
My bike is not getting started now! I started my Hunk at the office basement in the evening, it started I just put first gear and moved.... kinda missing and bike stopped ! Tried electric start 7-8 times after that battery went off, tried kick start but no luck, tried using choke, tried after stopping fuel, but nothing worked. Tried push starting no luck, took plug out, was oily, cleaned and checked for spark, all fine...

Put plug back, cranked, smoke comes out of silencer each time, but its not getting started.
Petrol problem / compression issue / something else ?

Is that so , it's possible .. I have purchased the Honda 20w40(white bottle) a few times only and it was 800ml only . The others I've just seen at the shop(and took them to be 800ml like their 20w40) .. so my mistake .
It is possible and very popular with local mechanics to remove a few chain links when the chain has reached maximum adjustment . But it creates a weak point in the chain , and a chain break during a speed run is not a pleasant experience . And believe me , during a speed run in the middle of a deserted road at noon is when it'll break . This is why nowadays in more powerful bikes manufacturers fit an endless chain , without even a removable lock mechanism(the lock is also a weak point) .Chain sprocket set is a relatively cheap part .

No. chain will not fail if you remove two links. While removing link buy a new chain lock (Rs.20) and fit. No noise or no danger of chain breakage.

When you fill with orinary air , it's 78% Nitrogen that you get . Whether getting the rest 22% of Nitrogen also is up to you . Only plus is nitrogen filling machines do fill less humid air(less water vapour) and cause less rim/rubber corrosion .

Decreasing air pressure happens with any tyres , tubed and tubeless and through the years and bikes I have suffered from it too . Once a wheel develops this problem , I never got to really fixing it despite much effort and in the end everytime had to replace the tyre and tube vexed . Things I watch out nowadays while getting new tyre/tube sets is

i) Ensure that the rim itself is in very good condition , if not repair it properly or replace it . Check for and keep spokes tight .
ii) with tube tyre , use a new mrf branded tube and tube-tape (ensure it by checking the embossed mrf-markings) , well dust with french-chalk while fitting and fit carefully and perfectly .
iii) check the new air valve and see that it's shiny new , don't buy a tyre/tube with old or even a bit deformed or tarnished valve fitting . Always keep an plastic valve cap on in use .
iv) buy a pencil type pocket air pressure gauge and check air pressure weekly at least . I also have got a foot-pump now to correct pressure weekly at home .
This is working well for me yet . Despite this I am almost decided not to buy another cast-wheeled/tubeless-tyre bike again .
Get the problem checked and do not think that cast and tubeless wheels are bad.Usually most mechanics do not know how to check for air leakage and thus will not be able to help. Most of the time the tire bead is damaged as a result cannot retain pressure. So check the tire else replace it by selling it at pro rata rate.
Good make of chain-sprocket is from Rolon or Diamond . O-ring type chains are indeed a huge development in motorcycle drive chains (they say it's revolutionary) . It takes a whole lot of maintenance effort out of the chain drive . I am wondering if my bike can be fitted with one at it's next change . You can try it . An O-ring type chain insides a full chain cover would be almost maintenance-free , I think .
Sibun"jee , can you advice if this is do-able ?
Yes it is do-able. But why to do it as DAZZLER chain alone cost Rs. 1100 while you can get extreme/hunk chain sprocket set complete from diamond at RS.800. Also fitting an o-ring chain requires removal of rear shock, rear footrest holder which will require removal of swing arm. Removal of swing arm will entail change of bush and all which will cost a lot more.
Why to go to UN-necessary trouble by spending more money if your DIAMOND kit for extreme cost less and will last more than OE.Believe me in my joy in this 3.1 lac km i have not changed the swing arm bush and has not been opened. The more you open a thing the more maintenance it requires.
These simple Honda engines are so sturdy by nature that the loss of engine life by using one or another oil grade would not be significant over the time you may own the bike . i.e you'd hardly complain if your engine lasts 1lakhs kms instead of say 1.5 ... and by that time you may have to overhaul it for a different reason altogether or would have sold it off and riding a new bike .
Use cheap mineral oil that feels good on your bike and change it often is what I too believe is best for us regular road-runners .

Only an FI and a sixth gear and i will sell my extreme for new extreme.The bike has enough punch to demand sixth gear.Although a bit more power is welcome but still the power is excellent for a 150 cc engine. The thing is that if your bike is in perfect condition then you will feel the power else if there is valve leakage then you will loose power.

10W 40 is best oil for extreme. Remember not to exceed 10W rating for lower viscosity.





Review of 15T sprocket and DIY on chain cleaning coming today afternoon.
However i am thinking whether to post in DIY thread or this thread.

@ Pinaki da
I bought Honda 10W30 (grey bottle) made by tide water last week.
It was 1L bottle, not 800 ml.
Costed me 240 rupees.

@ All
1. My chain adjuster has reached its limit and chain is loose. Isnt it possible to remove a couple of links from the chain and bring the adjuster to the front..? Heard someone here saying once adjster reaches its limit, chain must be replaced. (Odo - 15.5K )

2. Is nitrogen filling worth the premium..? My tyres loose air like 10 psi in two weeks.
So will it be a good idea to fill nitrogen..?

Dazzler chain already tested on Hunk by an FM, I had shared the link to it few pages back.
Whats the normal life of o-ring chains? do they last long than normal ones?

Go for ROLON or DIAMOND as it will be cheap and will last almost 30k.
Do not go for O-ring as it is quite expensive and is a nightmare to get it fitted.

I had advised to crank by opening full accelerator. It is a effective method.
sORRY TO MENTION UR NAME,I MISSED THAT .


Review of 15T sprocket and DIY on chain cleaning coming today afternoon.
However i am thinking whether to post in DIY thread or this thread.

Check for the condition of the sprockets, if they are not hook shaped and don't have pointed ends, I think you can try for removing links. But as Pinaki sir pointed - reliability issues. But 15k seems too less for chains.
My chain links are not good i guess.mech. said few links are tight while others are tight. He said so because at some point chain seems 2 be tensed enough while at some other point it seems fairly loosen. He show me by removing chain guard cap and rotating the wheel and we saw chain was tight at some place and fairly looose at another place. is it so because few links are gone and whole chain is to be replaced ??

But if you change, go for the whole chain-sprocket kit rather than chain alone, as worn sprockets will damage chains easily

Which sprocket to go for?? anything better than the stock one ?? for less stressed high speed ride.i can compromise with a slightly less acceleration.


Dazzler chain already tested on Hunk by an FM, I had shared the link to it few pages back.
Whats the normal life of o-ring chains? do they last long than normal ones?

My 2001 model Splendor's stock chain had lasted for 80k kms, so it all depends on quality. I think the stock chain that comes in Hunk/Xtremes these days are not of good quality.

My chain links are not good i guess.mech. said few links are tight while others are tight. He said so because at some point chain seems 2 be tensed enough while at some other point it seems fairly loosen. He show me by removing chain guard cap and rotating the wheel and we saw chain was tight at some place and fairly looose at another place. is it so because few links are gone and whole chain is to be replaced ??

Which sprocket to go for?? anything better than the stock one ?? for less stressed high speed ride.i can compromise with a slightly less acceleration.

@ sibun
wheres the DIY thread bhai..?

You better post it in DIY thread and share a link to that here as well.


He said similar thing k now a days brake shoes/chain/cables are of not good quality as before.
It has to do with us customers. We have grown into seeing the value for money rather than quality. So it is a no surprise that as spares price decreased also spares quality decreased.

Guys i inquired about brake pads for my xtreme few days back. ASK made was reported around 280 and 360 with labor. but today i visited a famous autoparts shops with genuine parts.they didnt have ANL or KBX but they offered me ASK front/Back both @ 190 . though they dont do labor work. print rate was 150 For Rear,and 145 for front disc pad. i was like .such a huge margin.that earlier highway situated mechanic is looting such a big time. on the packet of front ASK brake,NON ASBESTOS was mentioned unlike the rear one (marked as Activa brake shoes). AFAIK Asbestos type pads are preferred,is there any other brand with asbestos type or should i go with this ASK made

Posting here only because P220 uses O-Ring chain so adding info just for comparison. My bike is currently at 45.7k km and needs a change of its second chain. Never removed any links till date. So thats an average life of just over 22.5k km per chain.

I returned from office at 8 pm,i will try to make it by tomorrow.



Chain both to ASK. You will find it better. The cost of splendor front brake shoe from ASK(asbestos) is RS. 100 and the pads is Rs.145(asbestos). Do not go for activa brake shoe as they are non asbestos and are of no value. Instead go for splendor front brake shoe for rear drum.
All chains have tight and loose links. Clean the chain and lubricate.i will post a detail in DIY thread.