Though your post is intended for PSR sir, I would like to quote my personal experience

Even if I turn off the fuel-tap in night, my bike will start without choke thanks to hot Chennai, though I'll have to keep the throttle twisted a bit to keep rpm at 1500. If I don't turn it off, it'll start without any hesitation and idle smartly !

And, my room mates' Yamaha RX135, FZ 16 and my good old Splendor in my native(Kerala) starts with out choke.

IMO, in moderate climatic conditions, most of the bikes don't need choke for cold starts, unless the carb setting is for too lean fuel mixture.

@ Aswin -

I think you may be interested in buying dazzler o-ring chain kit as well for your hunk along with the chain guard.
Please check out the below thread - interesting one !

Yesterday Morning i went with my bike to have fun....and i noticed one strange thing, while standing my bike (Hero Honda Hunk 2011, 14k done) i moved the full throttle and noticed that the RPM went till 11000 only as meter showed, even i hold the throttle for some sec. even after that it was not able to cross the 11 mark, is it normal, i think it must go till 12k RPM, one thing i wanna tell you guys my bike is absolutely fine no problem at all.

One more thing i wanna ask you people after all the efforts (with 80KG of wait on the bike) it reached till 111 max speed, i think it is normal for a bike like hunk, How much max speed you people got, some says it can reach till somewhere 118, i don't believe that

Yes your AFR setting seems to be ok .

During summer the ambient temperature is mostly around 27 in morning to 37 in day...this is warm enough for the engine to start without choke..during rainy season/winter season, try early morning starts without choke..bike will not start easily,due to lower ambient.
You can ask many questions here,and not just me, but other members are equally well informed to answer you...

Good going...a little bit more rich AFR will give your bike better acceleration,and beyond a level will lower FE...find the spot and stay within it for best FE + acceleration...use proper tools and avoid working in dark times, to prevent damaging the AFR screw head..

True...Some of the New owners of ZMA and CBZ have cold start problems because ,the company AFR setting had become lean to get better FE,and this most of the time leads to poor cold starts and engine cutting off on deceleration etc.,

The Ignition control unit has a Rev limiter to prevent the engine from operating at higher RPM. so the max RPM is limited to set value..
Regarding top speed it is subjective, and dependent on many factors like the quality and Ron of petrol, outside temperature, engine temp., oil grade, oil quality and type, wind condition, load, and the clearance in the moving parts,and how well it is set etc....
Don't worry about the top speed , just enjoy your bike and ride...which is what Biking is all about..

Top speed attained on Hunk in many test ride reports and by FM's here are around 110 kmph, so I think the figure you got is pretty fine. And the figures like 120, 130 are mostly due to speedo errors.
I never had chance to rev my Hunk to top speed(I've gone only till 90) in Chennai, need to take her(or him as it is HUNK ) out of Chennai once!

One of the Many Benefits of Group Riding and Highway Rips

This Sunday, I rode with a local group here. We started at 12:00am (yes a.m.) and ended the ride at 6:30a.m. So it was a night ride by all means. Distance covered 120kms. To and fro.
After we left the city limits, we were cruising comfortably at speeds between 70-85 kmph. We were 12 of us in all (10 bikes). The least powered bike was a CD 100!!! Pulsar 150 (and my hunk!). There were:

2 CBR 250R
2 Ninja 250
1 Karizma ZMA
1 modded R15
1 P220 Orange
1 P 150
1 HH Hunk
1 CD 100

We were about to reach our destination (a dhaba) when my bike suddenly started choking. It was like it had run out of petrol. And the speed rapidly came down. And eventually stopped. Running out of fuel was not an option coz before the ride, I had filled up with 5 lts of fuel. I got worried more bcoz a fun group night ride was turning out to be a disaster. Now this guy with the CD 100 came to me and asked whether I had any cloth/anything under my seat. To which I replied in affirmative. I keep my bike papers under the seat.
Now, that was the problem - it was blocking the suction end of the air filter (located under our seats) and that is why the engine was gasping for air (or breath). Once removed, there were no problems at all!

Highlights:
- Bike cruises effortlessly at speeds upto 90kmph (as of now, I have done just 1200 kms)
- Top Speed reached 110kmph (without crouching, no redlining, no full acceleration).
- A slight twist of the accelerator even at high speeds makes the bike lurch ahead! A really nice kick considering its limitations and it being a heavy bike.
- Vibes a lot at speeds>100 kmph! Not like a spine rattling but from the foot-rests.
- Yet to check fuel efficiency.
- Most of the times was feeling grossly underpowered because of the presence of the CBRs and Ninjas! The CBRs and Ninjas were doing 150+ and the modded R15 was also not too behind! Just a twist of their accelerators and they blasted ahead like rockets!

- Best part: 'discovering' something important under the seat!

Yes, going through it right now!

Well, I weigh 68kg. The bike will generally do 108-110kmph. I've gotten to 119 only once with a pretty steep incline and full crouching. Otherwise, after crouching, 114kmph is quite achievable.

The CDI is rev limited, which would explain why the bike doesn't rev beyond a certain point. This is to ensure longer life of the engine.

Yes, I've been particular to make sure I use a small sized screwdriver to not damage the screw head. Will post a pic of the spark plug which seems to have a cocoa powder colouring on it tomorrow.

Oh, believe me, vibrations from the footpegs >100 is something we Hunk owners know all too well!
What you can do is fold the papers enough to make it fit in that small storage space under the seat. It keeps your papers safe from water in case of a wash too!

air leakage and over all performances regarding

Hi all,
1) A small prob is nagging me, 29 ps air leaks out in 2days .Went to a tire repair fellow, he showed with shampoo smeared all over tire that air is leaking all round the rim - tire jn.He told it has to be painted from svc. Any body experienced this trouble for their tube less tires? Any body tried any gum like things to stop leaks ? Pl.share ur experiences.
2) odo reading near 11k, brakes seems lost the bite.When you people changed the pads?

3) Acceleration seems to have come down i.e 0-60 taking more time now, 60-100 still slower. Those who have completed 10k pl .write your experiences reg- engine performances.

1) I had a similar issue with my front Tubeless tyre. Air would leak out rather easily. Went to a local tyrewala who put a line of insulation tape all around the inside of the rim and then put the tyre back on. Voila, problem solved. Made no sense to me, but somehow fixed the issue.

2) My rear and front brake pads were changed at 9000 km. Brake pad wear depends on usage and mine is pretty much on the limit braking.

3) 12500km later, I still find my engine to be in the best of conditions. 0-60 comes up in around 6 seconds and the ton mark not too long later. Try getting your chain tension, sprockets, air filter checked.

1. Open the tire and polish the inside of rim where the tire sits with a 500 grit or more silicon carbide paper. If the inside of rim is free from any problem then do not polish but use a special adhesive which is used to fix tubeless tyre which seals the rim.
2. Check the pads if worn out. If not worn out then most probably the pads are glazed. Open them and roughen the pad using a fine sand paper.
3. Check the air filter and change them. At 11k it is time for change.Also check the chain slack, brakes, tyre pressure e.t.c.

1. Experiencing the same prob donno wat to do

2. Changed brake pads at 8K. (a little early. spoiled the pads due to over heating )
11K is more than enough for pads to wear out.

3. Nothing of that sort. I keep the engine fit ;P

Magnificent RD restoration, please find the below link.
He has used P220 forks and used some extensions(as FM Sooraj suggested recently) to it, to fit caliper assembly for large discs.

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/thumpers...d-done-up.html

@Ashwin.terminator;
@SOORAJ
@SIBUN
THANKS FOR UR REPLY.
Today I opened both the brakes and inspected the pads ,only half thickness gone so cleaned with emery paper. and fixed it back. --very easy work all can do it.
Opened the spark plug. perfect burning ---no soot ,black or white.
Opened the air filter ,it was bit dirty,so cleaned with air for the time being, will change soon.
Chain was little loose so adj.
yet to work on the tire.

A doubt to ask , How to remove the speedo cable from the front wheel? seems to be a wire and not a cable like the olden analog speedos. Is it a part by itself or attached with the alloy wheel?

It is a part by itself. If you remove the wheel, you'll notice a rather inconspicuous device which slots onto the left(IIRC) side of the alloy. Very easy to remove, no wire nothing visible.

Thank you Ashwin