re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

kind of irrelevant question to topic but I wanted to ask here.
What resale value I should expect for 4 yrs old CB Unicorn (58K on odo)?
Its in perfect condition with no accidents and still gives mileage of 60-62 kmpl.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Check quickr.com/olx.in, filter for motorcycles-2009-unicorn for sale. This will give you approximate idea of Unicorn prices in your area.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Even though its just 4 years old that 58k on odo will drop the value of the bike considerably

Sent from my Mobiistar Touch S01 using Tapatalk 2

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Do we have to renew the Insurance of bike every year ? I just got a message to renew my insurance before 13th June 2013 where bike was bought. What things are covered in insurance ? My Rear right suspension and front left suspension is leaking oil, will it be covered in insurance ?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Yes, and its better to renew the insurance before the end date, otherwise you'll have to get your bike inspected by guy from insurance company, simply wasting your time.
Basically there are 2 types - Full cover and Third party insurance (layman terms ).
Yours is new bike, so it should be full cover and incase of any accident/theft the whole bike will get insurance claim along with claim for medical charges.
Third party insurance means, only the impacted third party will get benefits and you'll not

And your leaking forks will not be covered under insurance, unless its caused by an accident.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hey guys,
I have noticed one annoyed thing in my bike, when I start it and engine is cold it sounds normal but as I ride it for 20-30 kms and it gets heated then it start giving a tic-tic sound even on idling and become a bit harsh when I revv it hard, dont have any idea what could be this...?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

It might be the tappets . Did you get tappets adjusted recently ?? Check if it is coming from head area . Loose tappets sound like ticking noise , this thread has DIY for tappet adjustment by sibun and sarbanoxley . If you adjust by yourself , you will need feeler gauges too .

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Tappets are loose looks like. Get them adjusted and the sound should vanish.

Spot on!

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

This info ought to be useful:
1) Old fuel - this is the number one cause of carburetor problems. as it sits it dries out and varnishes the small ports/orifices in the bowl. All these problems can be cleaned with carb cleaner, air compressor , fine bristle brush, and a thin brass wire.

2) Clogged idle jet - the orafice is small in this jet and it is the first to get clogged with tiny varnish particles and/or dirt.
Symptoms- poor idle or no idle, you may need to feather the choke to keep the engine running at idle.
Fix - See carb cleaning section below
Prevent - install inline fuel filter and always store machine with a full tank of gas. Stabil can help but will not totally prevent the issue.

3) Clogged main jet - This will only happen with extreme dirt and varnish. more then likely your idle jet will be clogged also.
Symptoms - machine will not rev has no power, will stall when the throttle is opened.
fix - See carb cleaning section
prevent - install inline fuel filter and always store machine with a full tank of gas. Stabil can help but will not totally prevent the issue.

4) Fuel over flowing from the bowl - this is caused by a bad float needle or varnish/dirt preventing the float needle from seating, or the float is out of adjustment.
symptoms - worst case is fuel continually flowing from the carb into your engine or airbox or out the overflow. This can also be show up as a very rich running engine, or slow drip from overflow when engine is running. The engine will stumble and stall, running rich and choking itself out. Spark plug will be coated with black soot.
Fix - see carb cleaning, additionally, check the adjustment of the float arm to make sure it is perfectly parallel to the bowl gasket seat. If not you need to bend the little brass tang on the float arm until it is resting parallel when the carb is held upside down.
prevent - install inline fuel filter and always store machine with a full tank of gas. Stabil can help but will not totally prevent the issue.

5) fuel flow problems - Fuel not properly flowing into the carb, caused by clogged fuel filter, clogged petcock filter, kinked hose, clogged float needle/seat, clogged breather cap (although this one will run longer before dieing)
symptom - machine runs for a few seconds up to a minute or two then sputters and dies. Worst case the engine will not run at all (no gas in carb)
Fix- it's best to remove and clean the tank with water and detergent, remove and clean the petcock, check for kinks in the fuel line replace if there are any problems, replace the fuel filter. Check the flow by filling the tank and opening the petcock holding the carb end of the fuel line over a pan. Fuel should pour ot at a good rate. Then reconnect the carb and remove the drain plug from the bottom of the bowl. Hold a pan under your carb and turn on the fuel. It should flow at about the same rate out of the bowl.

6) Choke clogged out out of adjustment - varnish is clogging the choke orafice in the bowl, or the choke cable is not opening the choke valve properly.
symptom - engine will start ok when it is warm but when it is cold out (50 degrees or less) it will take a long time to start, or not start at all.
fix - see carb cleaning section, additionally adjust your choke cable so there is no more then about 1/8" of play

7) Vent Lines clogged/kinked - The vent lines on the carb are pretty important when it comes to keeping excess fuel out of the intake.
Symptom - every time you hit a hard bump your engine boggs/stumbles/or cuts out.
Fix - clean/replace the vent lines and drain lines on the carb/bowl. Make sure they vent tubes are routed to a place high up around the snorkel for the carb. Also make sure they are not kinked or close to the exhaust. The drain lines (usually 2 going to a T to one) from the bowl are routed so gas will drip on the ground and not your engine/transmission. They need to be clear and free flowing. Also it is good to check the float level to make sure it is not set too high.

Carburetor Basics
As you can see most of these problem come from old fuel and varnish caused by old fuel. One needs to simply understand the basics of a carburetor to be able to figure out what is going on. It's sole purpose is to properly mix the right ratio of fuel to air at any RPM range. There are basically 3 circuits that allow for this.
-The first one is the idle circuit. It consists of an idle jet and an idle mixture screw (or air mixture on some models). The stock setup of most idle circuits (98%) is to turn the screw in all the way. Not too hard or you will damage the screw. Then back the screw out 1 1/2 turns. This setting should get you in the ballpark enough for the engine to idle. You then need to adjust the idle down and re-adjust the idle screw until you attain the best idle. You need to listen to the engine, you will be able to hear when the idle mixture gets better or worse. This cicuit will effect the idle mixture with a little overlap into mid range. So from closed throttle to cracked throttle. If your engine stalls a lot when you close the throttle you need to suspect the idle circuit.
-The next circuit is the main - This circuit actually has two inherent circuits the first one controls mid range throttle/RPM. The second controls Wide open throttle. It does this with the use of an adjustable needle in the slide of the carb that varies the size of the opening in the main jet circuit. In the racing world there are infinite setups/possibilities here but for home use just understand that the needle position controls everything from cracking the throttle to about 5/8 throttle. After this the main jet takes over and all fuel flow is metered by it. If you have a mid range stumble check your needle position. If your engine doesn't want to pull at WOT then check your main jet. if both are problem them your main jet is way off.
-Cold start/Choke circuit - just as the name implies there is usually some form of fuel bypass valve that allows additional fuel to be drawn directly from the bowl into the intake stream. This allows a cold engine to start on cold days, when a much richer mixture is required. It's usually controlled by a manual lever either on the carb body or through a cable connection.

These three circuits work together with an intricate network of small tubes that siphon fuel from the bowl in various ways. Understanding this will help to pinpoint issues while you are working with your carb.

Carb Cleaning and other misc tips----
Carburetor should be removed form the machine.
Start by first setting up a clean towel or large rag to lay your parts out on. You need to keep these tiny parts clean. Light color works best to provide high contrast for the tiny screws and parts. I've used paper towels and in a pinch on the trail I took off my white under shirt to fix a friends bike. Proper preparation will make this job so much easier. Any carb cleaner spray will work fine, have the finest nozzle you can for your air compressor. When blowing off parts hold on Tight!! you do not want your tiny jet flying across the garage at Mach 2!!

take the bowl off and remove the idle(low speed) jet. Then blow carb cleaner directly into the hole where the idle jet came from you should see it coome out of a few tiny ports in the engine side of the carb. Immediately after blowing carb cleaner through take an air compressor and blow directly into the same low speed jet hole. You should repeat this a few times each time looking at the flow coming through the ports. Then take your low speed jet and look real close at the openings they should be round and perfectly clear. Take some carb clean and blow through each of the holes in the jet then use the compressor and blow it off (hold onto that thing tight so you don't blow it across your garage... been there done that!!). Most of the time idle problems lie in this jet. Next remove the idle mixture screw and blow through it with carb cleaner and air. When re-assembling it turn it in all the way and then out 1 1/2 turns (don't tighten it too hard!! or it will damage the screw and the seat).The next thing you need to do is remove the float by pulling the pin that slides into the carb body. Be careful when removing this there is a tiny spring clip that holds the needle to the float arm don't lose it. Clean the mating surfaces of the needle and the needle seat. next check your needle to make sure the spring inside it moves freely. If it does not spray it with carb cleaner and work it in and out with your fingers this will usually clean it out and allow it to flex again. Then reinstall the parts and check your float level. Stock setup on most mikuni carbs is the float tab set parallel with the bowl flange. So when you hold the carb upside down your float tab (the brass lever the floats use to close the needle) should be perfectly parallel with the flat surface that the float bowl mates to. if it is not parallel then take a small screw driver and adjust it by bending the brass tab until the float arm is parallel. Now remove the main jet and spray it with carb cleaner, again viewing the hole to make sure it is perfectly clean and round. In the worst cases I use a piece of fine brass or copper wire to run through the holes to clear them out, or just the bristle of your brush. Now finally before you put the bowl back on take your brush and clean out all the gunk that is dried in there. If it is heavily varnished spray it down it carb cleaner and allow it to dry and it will rub right off like a powder. The most important thing is an eye for detail blow through all the small holes that you see and look for the carb cleaner to flow through freely. Not only will it clean your carb it will also give you a good understanding of how this seemingly complex peice of equipment is very basic and easy to understand.

Source: Common Carb Issues - Polaris ATV Forum

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

What this can harm if dont rectify the same, because I went to SVC and they said there is no problem you can ride the bike without any tension, I have to get it done from outside if its badly required....

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Generally when the oil looses its viscosity(or becomes thin), these symptoms are noticed(especially the harshness) .
When was the oil replaced last time ? What was the make and grade ?

If the oil is new then it could be loose tappets. Don't touch them if the noise is less, bearable and less than 15K kms. Go ahead and adjust them if tappets were not adjusted in the last 15K kms.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Engine oil is just replaced few hundred kms before as I had done the servicing and grade is same which SVC recommends and which they use every time. Nobody have touched tappets till the time ever and bike has completed almost 20000 kms.

One question how does it relate to engine oil I was done know this and does really engine oil goes in cylinder heads area also...?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

It is the tappets, get that checked. Are you crazy, what is the oil pump for. The oil pump is there to push the oil to head and also the timing chain, as the oil gets old it looses its viscosity and thus tappets and timing chain sounds. Yours is tappet noise, get that rectified.

If oil doesn't reach head for 10 second, rockers,cam,timing chain,valves everything will get toasted.

My tappets were adjusted at 11k and now at 13.5k are again ringing, this time i will check the roller bearings on the rockers, most probably they will be worn then i will change that. I have seen this problem if i use 10W 40 or 20W 40 grade. After using thicker oil, the tappets make noise when heated, it may be because using thicker oil doesn't let the oil pump pump required about of oil per minute. So guys always use 10W 30 be it mineral,semi-synthetic or fully synthetic.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Got your pont bro thanks... So its the engine oil which goes to the tappets area as well so I have to stick to engine oil which SVC uses right and I have to only ask outside engg. to tighten the tappets as the SVC said its fine...?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

SVC have a poor reputation on adjusting tappets . Some might do it really good and some might worsen it.
For Engine oil you can use Honda/Veedol/HeroHonda/Mobil any of brand just grade 10W30 should be used .
One thing is for sure whenever adjusting tappets use a feeler gauge , svc guys tighten them without them which causes more problems.