re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

And what is that feeler gauge, does anybody know any trust worthy machenic in delhi who can do this...?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

A feeler gauge is a metal strip of specific thickness finished to a high degree.It is used for calibration of tolerances . I dont have any idea about delhi mate .

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A feeler gauge is a metal strip of specific thickness finished to a high degree.It is used for calibration of tolerances . I dont have any idea about delhi mate .

first servicing of cbz on my own

Ok guys here is my first review of servicing my extreme on my own. I have serviced and overhauled the Joy many times but till now i have only serviced the extreme in
service center as my bike was under free servicing. All the free services are exhausted and thus i decided to do the next service. In the service center only oil change,
chain adjustment and air filter were done. In a way it was better as the more they fiddled the more the chances of damaging something. My bike after 11k was needing a
major service. The front shock was hitting on complete depressing, brake oil had gone brownish from colorless, bike was not reving freely and was instead feeling lazy
to rev, tappet was making horrible sound once heated up, and mileage has decreased to 45-50 kpl. The pull from 6k rpm was also less intense.
So i went in a systematic way. I went near my mechanic as i need a helping hand to complete the works in time and my cousin brother had gone to village. So first we
from the front of bike:-
1. Front shockabsorbers- The shocks had gone soft and was getting fully depressed. Also in potholes a thud sound was coming.
We opened up and drained the oil, the oil has lost viscocity, the oil was aloowed to drain for 10 minutes, then we measured
the springs and one had gone slight shorter, it was elongated to the length of other spring and when we open up next time
and it has shortend again we will change both the spring. Then MOTUL fork oil of 20 grade was poured in by measuring exactly
160 ml. Then i pumped the shock 30-40 times to pump out all air. I know it is too much times but it is these too much care
which makes my bike perform better than most bikes. The shock was re-fitted to chassis.
2. Then brake fluid change- Since my pads were still having half matrial left i didn't touch them. Ijust greased the caliper pins and boots and left it there. Now DOT4
is not available in smaller packs, so i got a 50ml DOT 3 KBX fluid costed me only Rs.30 and is red in color. Since i do not have rear disc so 250 ml was complete waste
and like engine oil we cannot store the brake fluids. Brake fluid replacement is quite easy. Just requires a 11 No. spanner and a phillips head scredriver. So here is
the procedure i followed:-
1. First i covered the tank and visor with cloth and then a polyethylene.
2. Insert the ring spanner on the bleeder neeple and attach a transparent pipe to bleeder nipple and put the other end of pipe in a small bootle.This is for avoiding
the brake fluid falling on the alloys.
3. Now open the screws of master cylinder. I use a carbide tip screwdriver as plain philips head screwdriver loose their shape and thus damages screw. After opening the
screw, pull the plastic cover and then the rubber.
4. My bike is already 1.5 years old, some traces of moisture was found on the brake fluid and slight sludge has formed. so irequest all to change the brake fluid at 8-12
months.
5. Sucked out the old brake fluid using a syringe. Ensure that the handle is pointed straight ahead.
6. Now cleaned the master cylinder using a lint free cloth dipped in rectified spirit. This will remove the sludge formed by moisture in brake fluid.Do not pump the
front lever with no fluid in master cylinder as air will get inside.
7. Now the master cyl. was half filled with brake fluid and slowly pumped 2-3 times, if some air will be trapped, bubbles will come up.
8. Next keeping the lever pressed, open the bleeder nipple, fluid will be pumped out and lever will fall back to the bar, never release the lever as air will get in.
9. Tigthen the nipple and release the lever. Now pump 3-4 times the lever.
10. Then again keeping lever pressed open the nipple, then tighten and pump the lever three to four times.
11. This cycle went on till red fluid was coming out. I did it three to four times so that a few ml of red fluid also gets drained out.
12. In this process remember to replenish the master cylinder while it will be getting empty. You do not want air to be sucked in.
13. After all is over ensure that fluid in master cyl. is in max mark and then put the rubber cover and then plastic and then the metal cap and tighten the screws.

After i did this immediate effect was the brake became more smoother and also free play decreased. After riding for some kilometers brake bite was again back to new like
feel. Still 20-30 ml of brake fluid was left.

Ok, now front part work is over. since my coneset has no problem so it was not touched.

Now we moved on to engine parts as bike was making tappet noise.
The procees is as follows:-
1. Both the side panels was removed.
2. The tank was removed and kept on an old tyre.
3. The secondary air pipe was removed from head and kept aside.
4. The head cover bolt was opened, one got slipped while opening. This is bound to happen as the thread are made on aluminum and that too only two to three threads are
there, so it will most probably strip when tightening or opening the bolts.
5. Next the head cover was removed and kept aside. I didn't touch any o-ring be it head bolt o-rings or head cover gasket or AIS o-ring. If you fiddle with that then new
o-rings are gaskets are required.
6. The flywheel was rotated and timing was matched. The the rockers were checked and tappets had huge play. No wonder they were making a racket when hot.
7. Inlet valve was adjusted to 0.06mm and exhaust valve was adjusted to 0.10 mm.
8. Next what to do about stripped thread on one side of cam shaft holder which holds the bolt of head cover.There is three way- first is to insert a thin strip of metal
from PAN masala can and tighten the bolt done that on sis pleasure and still working and bolt became tight like factory, next is new cam holder or third is inserting
a metal bush and re-threading in lathe. We decided to try for adhesive and if it didn't work then mwtal strip.
9. Placed the head cover properly on head gasket and applied rubber adhesive on the threads of the bolt. Then inserted it in the side that has stripped threads and
tighten it so that it hold up. No pressure was applied on it. Next the other side bolt was tightened. Remember to tighten the stripped side bolt first and then the good bolt.
next everything was assembled reverse of dis-assembly.

The air filter was changed as the old one was past its replacement.
Engine oil was drained by tilting the bike to sides properly. By this method almost 1 liter comes out. Filled it with GULF 10W 30 oil and remaining 100 ml from another
can. Always keep another can as extreme needs 1000 ml on properly draining. So second can can be used as topping up while changing engine oil.


Carb tune- After the air filter was cleaned i tuned the carb, my tuning is a little different as i take almost five minuted to tune. After i reached maximum rpm after
setting the fuel screw, i turn the screw a slight to left or right and notice the change in sound. I do this 2-3 times and hear the change in sound, and then i keep
it where i hear the sound to be correct. This noticing of sound comes from experience which i cannot explain.

now the mileage after observing for over 2k km is 53-55 kpl which ridding at 75-85 kph on highways and if i ride sedately it is 60+ kpl. Previously i was consuming
litres of fuel for 420 km and now it has come down to almost 7 litres.

Chain tightening- Required spanner are 22 mm for axle bolt, 19mm for holding other side of axle, 30 mm for loosening the half axle bolt and 14-12 mm spanner for adjusting
the chain adjustment bolt.
1. First loosen the silencer side bolt. If the axle is rotating then use 19mm on the other side to hold it.
2. Lossen the half axle bolt on swing arm using 30 no. spanner or socket.
3. Adjust the half axle side bolt for tightening the chain. If chains have tight and loose spot, then keep 15 mm of play at tight spot.
4. Now check how many numbers of mark are out in the half axle side of the chain adjuster. Match the same on silencer side by adjusting the adjusting nuts.
5. After both side are equal, view from the back if the rear wheel is straight. Next tigten the halfaxle nut.
6. Rotate the wheel and ask someone to jab the brake. Keeping the brake pressed tighten the axle nut.

My method of checking chain tension is different. I ride the bike at 25kph and pull in the clutch. If chain is tight then there will be vibrations from chain. And for chain
to be loose i check it by hearing sound. If chain is hitting chain cover on going over potholes then it requires adjustment. I never check it by opening hole cap.

So this is a general summary of my own servicing of my CBZ and almost all points have been covered that is done in general service.
Any doubts feel free to ask.

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Excellent work. Just shows the amount love and care your bikes get.
Guys like you and me who take so much care are called freaks by others.

On the other note- I feel that every bolt on this bike to be over-torqued. Maybe because pneumatic tools are used during production ?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Forget! No mechanic uses feeler gauge. Don't let any mechanic to touch that. If you want to adjust, better do yourself!

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Thank you [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION]!

The other day, I got to down to fixing a few essential things on the bike.

Went to the Stockist, got a new Air Filter and new Spark Plug. I asked for the Xtreme's footrests(The New one, with the spring)
I got the rubber step and the arm, but no spring. So didn't buy it.

Then got home, fixed up the brakes. Brakes feel fine now. Front brake has got a lot more bite now.
The rear disk brake, I'm sure the ASC screwed it up. It wouldn't come off! :O I had to apply some effort to get it out. Once I did, scrubbed the pads and the pin that holds the pads together and I was good to go.

The bike would switch off on idling because the pilot jet was clogged. So I opened up the carb, but got stuck with how to open the main jet as it wasn't coming off.
Then called Sibun, who told me to put some engine oil around it. I did that and it opened after 5 odd minutes.
Next, I cleaned it all up, the pilot jet was completely clogged. Cleaned it all up and had to put it back together.
Fixed it on the bike and the bike would not start! :O
Called Sibun again. He asked to open the drain bolt and check if petrol was flowing out. Wasn't. Mistake was in fitting back the float.
Opened it again, refit it properly and fixed it on the bike. Still not starting.
Now my bike's battery was about to die after all the vain cranking.
Called Sibun again.
He told me a list of things to do and finally to twist the idle screw.
Voila! It fired up.

He even asked me to call him at 8 next morning after riding for a while and he would tell me where to stop turning the Screw for tuning.
But my legs were aching way too much to catch decent sleep throughout the night. So slept at 7am and woke up at 1:30pm. :P

Thanks a ton Sibun! You truly are a life saver!

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Sibun exellent detail again. Is not 11K is too early for the fork spring replacement. How much they costed? are they OE?
I am planning to overhaul my Uni fork including oil seal replacement. Any tips will be greater help.

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Man, thanks for calling. Here i am getting bored after office as i am alone. The third time when you called, i was cooking. But i am glad that you called me, and also that you have done all the work by yourself, i am quite glad that i helped you in doing all the work by yourself. Man, anytime call me i am ready to help.

11K is very early when compared to my Joy as its spring was replaced at around 2 lacs km. I am not planning for replacement of spring, but one spring was slightly short in length. May be assembly problem, because old model extreme has slightly shorter shock than the new models one, as the new models have clip-on so shock pipe are slightly longer. May be while assembling they have put one the new model extreme spring and other old model extreme/hunk spring. Again after 10k when i will open the fork if i see the spring has gone short, then it will confirm and i will change the spring, since changing one spring is not recommended, i will change both. This is just my assumption, if both spring remain equal in length then no problem.

These problems are bound to happen, as when i bought my JOY bike was not produced on large scale as it is today, so each bike got more time in factory than now, so automatically more care was given to each bike, and thus its quality is the best that i have seen till today. But now with so large scale productions small problems in new bike are bound to crop up. It is no wonder that most high end cars are hand built, for this reason to maintain consistency in each product.

Even you will see no two bikes from same model will perform same, but re-built the engine of both(by re-building means how my mechanic and i re-build engine and not some of the clown in the name of mechanic), performance will be same. Hand building is always the best, it takes out the imperfection present in automatic assembly line. After all no computer in world is superior than mans brain.

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Yes i have too noticed the performance of two bikes from same model were not same. Does man has created a robot that can assemble the whole engine??! Whatever i've seen in some programs in Discovery & Nat Geo is that engine is assembled by man itself with their own hands. Robots were used just to keep can eye on each parts of the engine, so that man would install the correct part on the correct engine in a flow chart way. I haven't seen any robot is assembling the whole engine.
In some company (ex. Ferrari) complete engine was assembled by one man only so that he do his work with full interest and he is given unlimited time (no pressure) so that engine is 100% perfect all the way, and they allowed to put their Name & Signature to their engine built. But some companies follows a chain system where one engine is assemble by many others, and i don't think this is good way coz if one link is down others have to be shutdown too.
And i don't know which type of system HERO follows. but i think it may be a chain. Several man would be working together in each bike. But in Harley only one man work on a single bike in a fixed particular model. This way they get expert in their work and high quality work is delivered to their customers.
I wanted to see Hero's working condition but don't know how i can !!!

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Great to hear that [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION]. Also, for the head gasket, do I just place it there or do I need to glue it?

One of the reasons why Harley and Ferrari charge you the amount they do is because the production rate is quite low. That is the only way how so much can be dedicated to one bike.

But in the case of Hero, they produce thousands of bike a day I think(Just a guess), you cannot have people fixing the engine because it would hold up the production line. :P

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Guys i can any one tell what step should i follow to remove pad for cleaning .
[MENTION=20978]ashwin[/MENTION] i couldnt remove the 12mm bolts they were just too hard to open by spanner .

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Using a pointed drift(even a nail will do), hit the pin very hard.

Arrow shows the correct direction.

(12mm bolts can be removed only by a socket/long box wrench as they have thread lock applied) To clean the pads,removing the pin is enough. For everything else -mounting bolts must be removed.

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Thanks [MENTION=14414]shoeb[/MENTION] . I will clean front disc pads and post results

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

I changed my tuning to 1.7turns(it was 3 turns) from the leanest side, mileage increased from 42-45 to 47-53.. Is this setup too lean? will it effect my engine life? Also I noticed it gave rise to cold start problems, here the temperature is 22 to 30c
Also there is some spark sound from the spark plug, I thought it might be loose and tightened several times, but whenever I start my engine sound occurs from spark plug.. SO is it time to change the spark plug?

Btw last month I changed sprocket, 875rs+150rs labour charge.. The mechanic didn't let me over gear
Yesterday i tightened my chain at a local mechanic, now at 5th gear at 5k rpm speed is only 55kmph, it was 62kmph before tightening.. Don't know what happened

Re: first servicing of cbz on my own

Hi guys, my friend owns new Xtreme (September 2011) and a problem is irritating him for the last one year.Whenever it rains, the bike misfires or even a splash of water causes the bike to feel like it has no petrol.He has changed spark plugs 2 times and even cleaned the head.What might ne the problem, Sibun bro and others please help.

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Hi guys, my friend owns new Xtreme (September 2011) and a problem is irritating him for the last one year.Whenever it rains, the bike misfires or even a splash of water causes the bike to feel like it has no petrol.He has changed spark plugs 2 times and even cleaned the head.What might ne the problem, Sibun bro and others please help.