Wah what a trick...made the job even easier .

Will use a nose plier next time to hold the tappet tool.

That explains why they always keep the adjustment low....now the changes i have felt not only include the hard kick but the rev build up has become smooth and the bike before i did this used to stutter even after giving 10 seconds of choke...not in just 2-3 seconds as soon as i close the choke the idles steadily...very easy to start now no need to give throttle to warm up the bike.

yeah why not but i knew when you see my post you will come to my rescue thats why i waited didnt even PM .

Sibunjis method is easy and you dont need to look for TDC but if you going to try the manual method then the link posted by paul on Stunner valve adjustment wil work just fine...but i want to add some thing here to that guide ...just to give you a clear idea ...in my xtreme when i first opened the head cover it was not in TDC look :



After rotating the crank a little still not in TDC :



This is now in TDC look at the dot mark on the cam sprocket on the upper left :



Just give a little shake on the tappet it will have slight play ..then rotate till the next T alignment you wills see the play has vanished...if you again rotate the crank till the T aligns you will see the play is back and the dot mark will be on the upper left on the cam sprocket....this is TDC.

Also dont confuse the F mark with T and align the notch left to the T mark..there is this l mark just to the left of the T mark ...align the I to the marker above



Also when you remove the head screw look at the way the washer is placed :



Note the metal part that says UP

I shoved the air pipe like this as it was a pain in the rear when adjusting the intake :



this is the tool i used to adjust the tappet turn it clockwise to tighten the tappet :



I couldnt adjust the gap by having the ring spanner in place as its weight was pushing down the rocker arm and it was impossible to adjust the gap with the spanner like that...so removed it to adjust the gap and only when tightening the lock nut i inserted the spanner .

Also try to get a feeler gauge with 0.09,0.07,0.13,0.11...makes it very easy to cross check .

OT : Need to get the rusted screws on the head cover replaced ...3 of the four screws are in bad shape .

@Sarbanoxley : Good and informative , as sooner or later we need to adjust tappets and Cant rely on SVC mechanics ..

@All : I changed my front parking (3.4W , though it is better than 5W i dont know how )and main headlamp to 60/55W (Stock Wiring), The light and illumination is very good almost 1.5times
the stock bulb , I used Jagan 60/55 H4 which was supplied with our car..As Saurabh said whenever you get to open visor change the main bulb with this one..

@sarbanoxley- Nice and informative pictures. But let me add a few information more, from the pictures you have posted it is easier to know timing when head is opened for cleaning.
You will see that there are two marks on two side of sprocket and a dot mark on sprocket and a groove which fits on camshaft.
So when head is opened then when re-fitting cam it must be ensured that the groove on the cam must be at up position. Also the cam must be free i.e is must rotate few degrees both side freely. Now mount the sprocket on the cam such that groove on sprocket matches with cam. This is the easy part. And now the difficult part is to match the timing with crank. Now mount the chain on sprocket. While mounting check the T mark is aligned and piston is at top.When piston is at top and T-mark is aligned then the line mark on sprocket should be perfectly horizontal to the cylinder head cover surface and the dot mark should be toward exhaust side.
The pictures that you posted is mandatory for cam re-fitting when opening head and not for tappet adjustment.
@RohIIT- I had also tried JAGAN bulbs but i didn't like. Although light was more and bright but it was yellowish compared to our philips german bulb as OE. Also the focussing was not as good as the german bulbs. I have requested my friend to get 50/45 bulb and then i will post.
Regarding your pilot lamp then 3.4 w is not better than 5W but when you observe the OE bulb then you will see that it has silver halide coated on top of bulb glass so that light is scattered and not falls pointed. But in your 3.4 w bulb no such coating is there. So your light is more as no obstruction is there, but when you see from front when parking is on then the light doesn't look same on all parts of parking. the silver halide on glass spreads the light uniformly on both sides.

@ALL- FOR MORE INFORMATION AND EASY WAY TO ADJUST TAPPETS I AM POSTING THE GUIDE FROM HONDA UNICORN TECHNICIAN TRAINING HAND BOOK:-

Did somone upgrade the stock battery on new xtreme-11??? if yes then what modifications were required ..

Exactly this thing was on my mind ..I went for this aftermarket spare since SVC people didnt have this parking bulb and i had to resort to cheaply available ones..Also Jagan lamp is bit yellowish as you said , But due to bit fog here in the morning it helps me to warn and light up streets more...I will change to OE as soon as winter subsides...

You dont want to know the trouble i had to go through to get the SC guys to even use the feeler gauge ....then i went to castrol bike zone in chennai but they were equally pathetic to say the least :P.

Very nicely explained...always learn something new from your posts

WOW this manual looks awesome ...is there anyway i can get my hands on the whole book ?

Planning to get the carb cleaned by myself as the SC refuses to touch the carb whatsoever...going to need all the help I can get from from senior members here


Before I touched anything removed the tank and side panels to get a better view...from what I can understand I have to unscrew these two star screws to get the carb out right ? :


http://





Pipes that are connected to the carb :





The red one goes through the back seat ..maybe the ari filter ?


The Blue one is choke ? How do I remove it ...tried to unscrew it but it wont budge .


Yellow is fuel pipe from petrol tank .


Where is my drain pipe ?





what is this (green circle) and how do I remove it ?




I tried to separate it but it was too tight .

This is the technician handout that Honda had given to mechanics after training in its plant. If you want i can scan and e-mail you as this is copyright material and i do not want to post it in public forum. Give me your e-mail id.

Replies in bold.

Ok looks like the thread is quite active so posting a problem in my CBZ Xtreme which is 6 yrs/45k km old now. This is from the first batch of xtremes launch.

It seems that its taking a lot more rpm then wht it used to take during its younger days
for e.g. - 60 kmph used to come up @ ~4.5k rpm in 5th gear now it takes approxomately 5.8k rpm.
This results in excessive engine heat and reduced kmpl. My main intention is not mileage but engine smothness and to restore it to previous glory hence...

I have showed this to 2 SVCs but to no avail even asked them to check the Odometer/rpmmeter which seems ok.
Are these normal or signs of ageing???

Kindly suggest - what can be the issue??? I am ready to go any SVC in Bangalore if they are really good.

TIA

use unicorn front 15t sporket

I have Xtreme of 2009 model. Battery is same and so it the setup compared to 2011 models. These batteries needs to be checked regularly and filled with distilled water. My bike is not been used at regular intervals and battery needs filled with distilled water and charged (takes time).

I replaced it with Exide Xtreme (yes, model name is Xtreme) Maintanance Free battery. No modifications. Straight fit in the current battery compartment. Comes with 3 Years warranty. Price is Rs 1200 on exchange with old battery

When was the last time you changed the Clutch plates, Chain and sproket set?

Its usually clutch plates lost the friction...Though your engine is revving up, clutch plates do not have enough friction between them and they dont transmitt all the power to the transmission (gears), so the speed is low though the RRM is high.


@sarbanoxley
Why do you want to open the Carb and clean why??
There is good reason why many mechanincs are scared to touch the Carb and those who have touched, many have been successfull in screwing it up.

I think that would just correct the rpm problem at the expnese to lower pick-up . I just want to keep it stock and smooth as those initial days.

I don't exactly remember when but must be more than 2 yrs back .
Your explanation makes perfect sense - is there anything else that may cause this behavior - I have to go for service next week so would like to get everything checked that may remotely cause this problem.

Thanks again guys...

I have the 2012 Hunk and even I get a speed of 56-57 kmph at 4.5k RPM. This has been constant throughout since the day I purchased it till day! And I have completed 4 free services! Any inputs on this anyone?

Dropped bike in parking. Actually It was parked on rubble and it slipped.
The plate of metal(black) on exhaust is dent and scratched. Does it retail separately? If yes, please tell me price.
No other harm was done to bike, but that looks ugly.