Hello Sibun, I have initialized the TPS but with some variations in values as mentioned below in bold. Please check whether it is ok or not.


Initializing of TPS is done to match the TPS output with CDI so that optimum map is selected for firing.
Unicorn and extreme runs DC CDi and these CDI unlike other CDI has micro chips. Or in other words it is like ECU but slightly less brain that ECU. It has as many has 10 firing modes and varies. So if tps is not initialized optimum performance cannot be obtained.
For initializing the TPS follow the procedure:-
1. Keep ignition switch(key) in off position.
2. Fasten the throttle sensor to the carburettor and connect the connector.
3. Remove the pulser coil coupler( there are two coupler coming out of magnet- one is neutral switch coming from front sprocket and other is coming from magnet- open the magnet one), and give 12 V supply from battery(by separate wire from battery positive) positive to blue/yellow wire(blue wire with yellow stripe), which is going to CDI.
4. Put on the ignition and the tachometer will shoe 1000 rpm(do not start the bike only ignition key is on).
Yes it was exactly 1000 rpm.
5. Give full throttle and tachometer shows 2000 rpm.
I got 2000 rpm.
6. Close the throttle and tachometer shows 3000 rpm.
I got 3000 rpm.
7.turn throttle to full and tach shows 7000 rpm.
In this step only I got 8000 rpm instead of 7000 rpm.
8. Close the throttle again and tachometer will show 5000 rpm and then will show 7000 rpm immediately.
Here also it stays at 8000 rpm. never come down to 5000 rpm.
9. Switch off the ignition and refit the coupler.
Done.
10. Complete each operation within 8 seconds.
11. If tachometer shows 10000 reading at any stage repeat the process.[/QUOTE]
Once I got this value and redone the whole process.



After this I felt smooth acceleration. Do I need to tune my carburetor again after this process?
Thanks.

Hi guys back after a long time...heard that hunk and xtreme are getting rennovation is it true? and what are the changes except for the name?

Re-posting my query from unicorn's ownership thread
Reason for Re-posting is that my Hunk's tyres too need to be replaced soon and I am thinking of going for the same combination of tyres which I have mentioned in the query.Waiting for some valuable inputs

Tried twisting but it only moves from side to side ...the SC head mechanic checked everything including the cam shaft bearing as told by sibun....all the bearings are in good shape.

The SC the head mech looked at the noise and set both the tappets to 0.10mm and the noise disappeared ...i noted this as i was allowed into the service bay and stood there the whole time looking...when i showed the manual which states the settings to be IN = 0.08 and EX = 0.12 he showed me another manual that they use in the service bay it listed 0.08mm - 0.10mm for CBZ/Karizma/Ambition...he said thats the range for these models if within this range nothing will happen....if set to manual specs he said the noise will come back .

Took a test drive and the first thing i noted was the awesome pickup that i had earlier was gone but the noise too is gone but if i listen hard i can clearly make out the same noise very very mildly but i would say its 99% gone.

Guys do i reset the tappet to manual specs again ? cause i miss the pickup...the performance was just awesome after i set the tappets myself to manual specs...to be frank my bike never performed like this until i set the tappets correctly...the only downside is the jiggling/ticking noise...... i am ready to bear with the noise if it wont do any harm to the engine in the long run.

Also you have to align the l mark to the index mark above not the "sleeping" T...if you do this the sleeping T mark will be in the dead center.

110 size for the rear didnt fit my xtreme ....tried it long time back...for the front tyre i have used 2.75X18 tuffup tube from honda shine for a long time.

Awesum ! This would mean Hero modified the service specification without updating the owner's manuals .

You can try that . Minor tappet noise from looser tappets is quite harmless . But I doubt that your newfound speedy acceleration was from the minute variation of tappet clearance alone . By fiddling with the T mark alignment , you were either retarding or advancing the timing too ... and something about your fuel quality or compression etc was making the altered timing work a bit better .

first i couldnt believe it myself ...it was for quick reference for the mechs i think....forgot to take a snap .

Today i reset the tappets following the procedure outlined in the manual....lined the l mark exactly like the manual instructed...set EX = 0.12 IN =0.08 ...rotated the crank two times and checked the clearance again...it was perfect.Then took a short test drive after 6 kms things i noted are :

1)The RTR like pickup is gone but the performance is good cant complain....pushed it to upto 76km/hr the bke reached 75km/hr on 1/4th throttle.

2)the jiggling sound is back .

I am pretty sure i set everything correctly...not even the SC people will set the clearance so meticulously...the head mech checked all the bearings mentioned by sibun he said all bearings are in good shape....maybe it will make this noise if the setting is correct ?

Except for this jiggling/ticking noise i have no other complains...but i am pretty sure if i line the "sleeping" T mark instead of the l and set the clearance the RTR like pickup will be back ....i raced with a pulsar 150 and a uni like that ...loved every second of it .

Then it's confirmed that your magic is in the altered timing - dunno exactly if you are advancing or retarding by aligning wih the T mark itself instead of the line next to it ...
Jiggling noise like sewing machine ? And only after bike gets hot ? Then it's tappets (minor noise not any problem - ignore it) . If jingle is like payal and starts right from first start (present on cold/warm engine throughout) means timing chain noise (do not ignore it) .

How exactly is the timing affected by adjusting the tappets other than TDC (or whatever) ?
Forget the T,F ................marks. As sibun has also clearly mentioned that once the tappet is free(when the valve closes),it can be adjusted.

Timing is affected by aligning marks adjacent to the T mark relative to the line marked on the crankcase . Nahi ? Not the tappets .

Well, It's time for short review of my bike which has clocked 6950 kms.

(+) Positive aspects :

1) Refined and Reliable Honda Engine.
2) Upright position and comfortable seats for long rides , though pillion suffers from hard seat. ( CBZ is more comfortable )
3) Mileage : 45 - 55kmpl ( Hard - Sensible )
4) Adjustable GRS Shockers which adds more comfort
5) Stability of bike on Roads and good handling in traffic.
6) Big Bike feel due to tank shrouds.
7) Smooth delivery of power to back wheels
8) Good control of bike when brakes are hard pressed. ( From 60 kmph to Standstill )

(-) Negatives which can be improved
1) Feeble Horn
2) Weak headlights ( reflector is good )
3) No Engine kill switch
4) Hard Pillion Seat
5) The Drive chain looses every time you hit 80kmph on Highway.
6) Brakes could be better.
7) Expensive Spares.
8) Paint finish is not that great.
9) Doesn't give much adrenaline rush like Pulsar ( Pulsar is a untamed beast whereas Hunk is tamed beast )

Recently, I changed my Front Sprocket to that of Unicorn and boy I love it. Though it has lost some acceleration ( which doesn't matter much to me ), i can cruise all day at 60kmph without straining the engine. At 4.5K RPM, my bike reaches 60 kmph, and at 6K it reaches 80Kmph, so you know what I'm talking about I'm quite happy with this mod unless I loose interest in Highway rides.

The head mech set the IN = 0.09 mm and EX=0.07mm (Measured them the next day when the engine was dead cold) and the noise disappeared .


This is what the manual says to do (the balck mark is the index mark above) :






RTR like pickup comes when I align like this :







I have done this two times already and reverted back to manual procedure...i am pretty sure I am not imagining things .


Thats exactly why I didnt worry when I aligned the sleeping T mark instead of the l l mark and the sleeping T.... next time I open the head I will do exactly what sibun has said.

Guys anyone having trouble opening xbhp ? cause for the past few days i am not able to access this page no matter how many times i refresh or how many hours i wait....all other sites open instantly.....it opens only by luck even though i have a fast optic fiber connection .

Right .
As far as I understand , this alters the firing timing of the engine's CDI ignition system . There is this small permanent magnet affixed to the magneto rotor and a pickup coil is affixed next to the rotor . Everytime this magnet passes the pickup coil ( as the rotor spins ) .. it generates a small current in the pickup coil by electromagnetic induction . The pickup coil is connected to the CDI which senses this small current and fires the plug . So by setting the magneto rotor's position ( alignment of the line adjacent to T with the line on the engine case ) the CDI's plug firing timing is altered . By altering this you are varying the factory recomended (and set) timing a little bit - either advancing or retarding it (not sure - gotta ask others) . The factory setting is to fire the plug as near to the TDC of the compression stroke as they could adjust (i.e at maximum compression of the mixture) . This has nothing to do with tappet clearances - when the plug fires near the maximum compression of mixture (and piston at/nearest TDC) - both the valves are fully shut (closed) .
It was a well known fact that under conditions that are not ideal (adultrated or low octane fuel for example) ... varying the timing can compensate and increase performance . Timing was a vital adjustment(left to expert mechanics) when we were still using the "points" (contact breaker) ignitions on bullets . Nowadays , with CDI and later ignitions , we don't even bother about ignition and timing .
Anyway , I completely believe that what you felt after that change, was real and reasonable .

Yeah , right ... then it's minor tappet noise indeed . Nothing to worry about . Really serious tappet noise is loud hammering - something other bikers will also notice .

Next time around (after giving enough time for the downloading)click the "file "tab and from the drop down menu click the" work off line" and you get your page again click the "off line tab" it becomes on line.Just try this as an easy way out.