check clutch plates. Slipping clutch plates always does this. Few more symptoms of slipping clutch plates : revs climb but bike doesnt respond quickly, unable to do wheelie or burnout. If you are not having any of this symptoms then its because of sprocketing i.e. you are using a chain-sprocket set which has made your bike short geared.

@sibun please check your PM

Thanks for the detailed reply will remove the carb just like you have said.

I have already mentioned the jiggling noise i am suffering when the engine becomes hot...showed it to SC head mechanic and he is saying it is the tappet that is making the noise...so adjusted the tappet again to see if that makes this jiggling noise disappear but it didnt....in fact it has increased .

If you listen carefully you can hear the jiggling/ticking noise :

P1020001 - YouTube

To me it sounds like camshaft bearings. Did they(SVC) check rocker arm rollers ?
Did you try to find out the source of noise by using a large screw driver ? Were you experiencing this noise even before replacing the valve and valve guides ?

Please keep me updated on what sibun tells you as he knows this best.

I guess your bike is in perfect condition.
Call me a purist but I want my ride to be stock so never used any chain-sprocket set different than OEM so I guess most probably I need a clutch-plate replacement.

Thanks again

better to get it undented and touched up with paint...
new one costs 550 bucks (2 years old price) and it took my friend 1 month to arrive. In the meantime, he got the cover undented and painted...

Yeah it seems to come from the head only at least to me ...i couldnt decide myself thats why i took it to SC ...the head mech is saying the tappets are loose...thats why i adjusted it again...the jiggling/ticking noise comes only when the engine is hot...first they changed the bore then after 4000kms it lost compression then they replaced the valve guide+ valves...then after some 2000 kms while coming from a 500 km trip i started hearing this noise...suspecting this to be the tappet i adjusted it but the noise was still present...then only i took it to the mech and he is saying its loose tappet .

Will ask them to check the rocker arm rollers and yeah before i take it to SC will wait for sibun .

exact noise was there on my stunner too when I was using castrol power 1 (and i think it was a fake oil) around 2 yrs ago. Svc head mechanic said its because of cold climate, cold engine. I changed the oil and bike became as smooth sounding as a Honda can be.

ok. will do the same. Thank you.

Hi Sibun, I have unscrewed the TPS during carb cleaning of my UNI. Please explain the impact of initialing and how to do that. Thanks.

nelson and sarbonoxely query and how to initialise the TPS

Your clutch plate are severely gone. But first loosen the clutch and increase free play and check. If the problem is solved then it was a case of clutch not dis-engaging fully and if it is not helping then change clutch plate.
I got the PM and i will scan the manual and post it today at night.
For the sound it is coming from rocker. I will tell you a process, follow that and reply. Adjust the inlet tappets to 0.06mm instead of 0.08 mm and exhaust to 0.10 mm instead of 0.12 mm and check. But before that check engine oil and see if it is ok. Usually timing chain and rocker sound comes when engine oil has gone bad.My method of checking if engine oil has gone bad is to hear rocker and timing chain noise. If there is slight noise then i check engine oil. After that go for tappet adjust and then while adjusting tappets, move the rocker arm bearings with fingers. If they have play then the bearings are creating noise.
From the sound i can deduce the rocker arm bearings. Usually in engine which have rocker arm bearings this is a common problem after 50k km. In splendor there is no bearing and instead the rocker has flat surface as a result it last long.
Also check the small bearing on camshaft. There are two bearings- one near the timing sprocket which is bigger and other at other end and will be smaller. Check that small bearing. But most probably the rocker bearings are culprit.
So in all you have to follow three steps:-
1. Check engine oil and see if it is ok.
2. If ok open head cover and check rocker arm bearings for play and sound and small bearings on camshaft.
3. Adjust the tappets to 0.06 mm and 0.10 mm.
Initializing of TPS is done to match the TPS output with CDI so that optimum map is selected for firing.
Unicorn and extreme runs DC CDi and these CDI unlike other CDI has micro chips. Or in other words it is like ECU but slightly less brain that ECU. It has as many has 10 firing modes and varies. So if tps is not initialized optimum performance cannot be obtained.
For initializing the TPS follow the procedure:-
1. Keep ignition switch(key) in off position.
2. Fasten the throttle sensor to the carburettor and connect the connector.
3. Remove the pulser coil coupler( there are two coupler coming out of magnet- one is neutral switch coming from front sprocket and other is coming from magnet- open the magnet one), and give 12 V supply from battery(by separate wire from battery positive) positive to blue/yellow wire(blue wire with yellow stripe), which is going to CDI.
4. Put on the ignition and the tachometer will shoe 1000 rpm(do not start the bike only ignition key is on).
5. Give full throttle and tachometer shows 2000 rpm.
6. Close the throttle and tachometer shows 3000 rpm.
7.turn throttle to full and tach shows 7000 rpm.
8. Close the throttle again and tachometer will show 5000 rpm and then will show 7000 rpm immediately.
9. Switch off the ignition and refit the coupler.
10. Complete each operation within 8 seconds.
11. If tachometer shows 10000 reading at any stage repeat the process.

@all- Tomorrow i am going for my new job training, i may not be able to reply to your messages but i can access it from my phone and view it. Previously i was replying from my phone, but sadly with the new upgrade of XBHP, i cannot reply from my phone. However i can browse and log in so can view it. If any body has any urgent query you can message me on my phone, you can get the numbers from SHOEB2015 and paul.1911. Also you can call me after 5 pm. I will try to reply if i have access to PC and net.

No problem take your time .


Checked the oil level today its at MAX level ...the oil has done close to 1600- 1700 kms(Shell10W 40 semi-synth) ...the color has changed slightly and the gear shifts when the engine becomes hot has become a little clunky but it stays smooth for the first 3 kms when its warming up.

Should i shake the rocker arm bearing side to side ? btw this is the rocker arm bearing right ?



even while checking the camshaft bearing i move it left to right to check for play ?

My feeler gauge has 0.10mm but no 0.06mm instead it has only 0.05mm and 0.08mm ...can i set it to 0.05mm instead of 0.06mm ? i even tried getting another gauge but this godforsaken place i cant find a thing .

Could be as this is the first time i got oil from this shop ...i was on this trip and it was the only shop i could find in that remote place and they only had 15w grade castrol and this shell 10W 40 oil.After reading sibun's post on veedol 10W 40 super swift... today i finally got it after much struggle....the dealer had to get a carton all the way from chennai just for me .....it took me more than 3 weeks and numerous phone calls to get it.

UPDATE :

Today i tried something different instead of lining the l mark with the index mark above ...i lined the "sleeping" T mark that comes right next to the l mark to the index mark above and adjusted the valve gap....the ticking /jiggling noise has reduced a lot now but i can still hear it mildly when the engine is hot.

Two things i noted immediately after doing this :

1) little compression bump.

2) Awesome pickup.

80km/hr comes up very fast.

All this with the old shell oil but since the noise seems to have reduced i changed the oil to VEEDOL 10W 40 in the hope the new oil will completely stop the jiggling noise but it didnt.The shell oil was really dirty ...glad i drained it but have to say this shell oil really cleans stuff inside the engine...good detergent action. The gear shifts like butter with this veedol oil.

If you see the manual instruction on tappet adjustment ...in that picture in the manual they would have only lined the l mark to the index mark above.... the "sleeping" T mark would be on the right only....this is really confusing :P.

This round thing i checked for play ...guys see this and tell me if this is the culprit or not :

P1020002 - YouTube

Lateral play looks normal. What really you are looking is the play between the roller and its pin.
Grab the opposite sides of the roller and try to twist.