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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
I believe this is because the chain has been over-tightened. This is a very common issue with most mechanics. Ask him to loosen it a little and those vibrations you feel in the brake pedal and gear shifter will go away. I assume the sluggishness can also be attributed to the same thing.Originally posted by GuruXtreme View PostHero Honda Hunk 2011, RC'ed, DC'ed, MC'ed! :P
There's fine line between genius and madness. Don't cross it!
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
360 degree, you can use a marker to make signs on carb so that you know how much you are turning.Originally posted by Jith_in View PostGuys... one common doubt what is meant by one turn of screw?? in the carb tuning thread there are lot of tuns mentioned.... is one turn is 180 degree or 360 degree...???
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
What I have noticed is the crash guard that is fitted to main engine bolts. These bolts are most of the times not tightened properly. Please check that too.Originally posted by ashwin.terminator View PostI believe this is because the chain has been over-tightened. This is a very common issue with most mechanics. Ask him to loosen it a little and those vibrations you feel in the brake pedal and gear shifter will go away. I assume the sluggishness can also be attributed to the same thing.
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
But till now i thought one turn is 180 degree and tuned my carb according to that(1.6 turns from fully closed position). Bike has no problems at all.. Easier cold starts,no stalling of engine,smooth ride,good milege(52 kmpl)
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
1.6 turn seems too lean, but we can't be sure as afr varies for each bike, mine is set at 3.9 turns and sibun's extreme is at 3.8 turns, but i say again its better to post pic of spark plug and see whether it is running lean or rich
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
[QUOTE=sibun;1044432]@ashwin.terminator- For 27k service you can go for following jobs:-1. Clean the brake pads and clean the calliper pins. Also grease the calliper pins.2. Change the fork oils with Motul or Escort shock oil.3. Open the clutch cover and clean the oil strainer and also open the centrifugal cleaner and clean that of any debris. 4. Fill fully synthetic oil like Honda throttle or Motul 5100 semi-synthetic.5. Check the rear shock and if is soft thenhjarden it by sliding towards hard by one notch.6. Open the battery terminals and clean it with emery paper.7. Get the tappets adjusted and also check the timing chain tensioner for any noise.8. Clean the drive chain with diesel and lube it with gear oil.9. Check the discs for any scratches and bends.10. Since you have fitted the big bore that means your bore has not run for 27k so no need to open head and valves. In fact my extreme at 28k still doesn't require head cleaning as it is running on highways at high rpm most of the time.Pretty much these and if any specific doubt then ask me.For the reflector, yes it is because of the 60/55 w bulb. Nothing to worry, let it be like that.For the head cover bolts then go to lathe and get brass bush set. I will post the pictures of brass bush at weekend, so please wait for it. Actually the original threads are made on aluminum and have on it two threads, so gets stripped. By making brass bush and inserting, it will last forever @jith.in- Take it to a mechanic and he will open it. After that get two bajaj chetak headlight screws and fit. Since it is '-' head screw so next time will be easy to open.
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[MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] - Can you please explain more briefly "Clean the brake pads and clean the caliper pins. Also grease the caliper pins"- Is this front disc break? Can I DIY. Also .3. "Open the clutch cover and clean the oil strainer" - What is oil strainer, and what is the best way to clean it, what are the advantages? Can I DIY.
By the way have a happy weekend!
Cheers!
Babu Tunk
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Hi Friends,
Today based on [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] 's earlier post on tuning carburetor, i have tuned my Hunk's carburetor, by blocking/closing the small/narrow breather pipe on the flange next to the bore, then by increasing the RPM to 2K, started unscrewing the Air screw (i had unscrewed it by 1.5 rotation before starting the bike) the RPM started increasing till 3.5k- 3.6k not beyond that and then carefully rotated the Air screw to point when the bike was vibrating, did all this while blocking/closing the small/narrow breather pipe on the flange next to the bore. Now coming to best part of the whole process was the result. The bike is able to hold on the 1k RPM without any problem even in traffic, and after riding it for a few KMs/ that is when the bike got heated-up the RPM increased only to 1.1K to 1.2K, and the sound of the engine at idling is just pure bliss, Like [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] always say the engine sound is like that of a sewing machine. Just loving it..
Happy weekend guys.
Happy riding!
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
[QUOTE=Jith_in;1044692]But till now i thought one turn is 180 degree and tuned my carb according to that(1.6 turns from fully closed position). Bike has no problems at all.. Easier cold starts,no stalling of engine,smooth ride,good milege(52 kmpl)
[MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] brother what do you think so
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
bro plug tip isnt visible, use macro mode in camera to focus on plug tip, to tune you can go to page 697 or follow sibun's signature link
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
Guys, what rear tyre you suggest for hunk, my requirements are better traction, handling and at least 120 section for looks...?KTM RC390 - Current
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Hero Hunk - Sold
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
I was about to post about my Hunk's tires, then saw your post right away...Originally posted by itsmevini123 View PostGuys, what rear tyre you suggest for hunk, my requirements are better traction, handling and at least 120 section for looks...?
As I have posted before, I have been using MRF Zapper Q 120/80 for a while (14k kms so far). The grip is decent, but it gave me tough time always, with its edges touching even the upper chain guard(I had already removed the lower chain guard for this tire). The next BIG ISSUE - the tire touching the upper mud guard edges when with a pillion and going over potholes...
Also, I believe its taking a toll on the chain and mileage too, though not sure.
But it is definitely a looker.
I finally I decided to get it changed and got CEAT ZOOM 100/90 for Rs. 2450(tire+tube+fitting charges).
I got a sweet deal of Rs.800 for my old Zapper Q from the same shop. (The zapper was good enough to run for another 10k kms)
Here are pictures of CEAT ZOOM.
Also, got battery(SF SONIC RODED, 1 year old) filled with water.
Planning to get oil changed tomorrow (1700kms done after the engine overhaul, oil previously changed at 700km)
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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk
I'm on 100/90 mrf meteor on my first gen uni, the Tyre was touching the upper mud guard too so I just heightened the bike a bit and it looks pretty cool, the Tyre looks broader coz of the large size buttons.Originally posted by SatSon View PostI was about to post about my Hunk's tires, then saw your post right away...
As I have posted before, I have been using MRF Zapper Q 120/80 for a while (14k kms so far). The grip is decent, but it gave me tough time always, with its edges touching even the upper chain guard(I had already removed the lower chain guard for this tire). The next BIG ISSUE - the tire touching the upper mud guard edges when with a pillion and going over potholes...
Also, I believe its taking a toll on the chain and mileage too, though not sure.
But it is definitely a looker.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]138071[/ATTACH]
I finally I decided to get it changed and got CEAT ZOOM 100/90 for Rs. 2450(tire+tube+fitting charges).
I got a sweet deal of Rs.800 for my old Zapper Q from the same shop. (The zapper was good enough to run for another 10k kms)
Here are pictures of CEAT ZOOM.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]138072[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]138073[/ATTACH]
Also, got battery(SF SONIC RODED, 1 year old) filled with water.
Planning to get oil changed tomorrow (1700kms done after the engine overhaul, oil previously changed at 700km)
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