Any particular reason for changing the fuel tap ?The fuel strainer and sediment bowl can be removed and cleaned easily. Remove the entire assembly to access the tube filter.
If the lower portion gets clogged then the bike will not get fuel when there is 1-2 liters petrol in tank or apparent reserve capacity will look abnormal .
It is very common problem in old bikes and cleaning will take care of this issue.


As you are getting the clutch changed and centrifugal filter cleaned, ONLY USE LINT FREE CLOTH(like old clean vest/banyan). Never use the cotton waste to clean the internals as the leftover lint will swell up when dipped in oil and will clog the filter mesh.
Check the outer/inner hub and clutch basket for any wear.
Discussion on splendor thread regarding the same.

OK, you need expert advice then i advice you to not remove it. It has lot of drawbacks rather than advantage. The famous pull that hunk is good at in all gears, you will miss it. Also exhaust are designed thinking a lot about engine characteristics and CDI firing and all. So you cannot just plonk out the cat con. It will be better if you can find a free flow exhaust specially made for hunk.
Check your bike rather than blaming the cat con. Extreme are known for there pull from 6k to 9k rpm. They pull like crazy and even overdrive magazine had already mentioned that it pulls like crazy till redline in fifth gear and sixth gear will do wonders to the bikes.
I have changed to 15T front sprocket and still the bike is pulling towards red-line in fifth gear. So your bike feeling stress at 8k is your bikes problem.
Since your bike has run 28k i advice you to do the following works:-
1. De-carbonize the head by manually opening it- the cause for engine feeling strained,
2. Open the valves and polish them- this will increase the compression and get that red line pull back
3. Change clutch plates as the old plates will not allow the power from crank to be transferred to wheels fully.
4. If chain sprocket is worn change that as that also saps power.

The pet cock is of splendor, but will fit in extreme with no problem. But why did you buy that. Just buy the filter that you see on the pet cock stick. It is available separately with the o-ring and will cost only Rs. 25.
For fork oil open both the fork and do the following works:-
1. Open the fork from the handle T and then completely dissasemble it. Take out the pipe from fork legs by removing the piston bolt from underside of fork. In short open each and every part of fork.
2. Pop out the old fork seals. But before popping see that there are two metal clips which are locks for oil seal. Open them and then pop out the oil seal.
3. Now get half liter kerosene and completely clean the pipes, fork legs and pistons and every thing including springs and then let them to dry on a clean newspaper.
4. Now place the new fork seal at the reqd. place and push it slowly in. Then use the old oil seal on the new oil seal and drive it in using light hammer. Old oil seal for protecting damages to the new oil seal due to hammer. Pop out the old oil seal and check if new oil seal sits straight and at its position. Fit the oil seal locks.
5. Before inserting the pipes apply a bit of shock oil on the inner edges of fork seal, this prevents damages to the seal by dry sliding of fork pipes.
6. Now re-fit the pistons and pipe reverse in process to dis-assembly.
7. Now insert the spring through the top hole of pipe and then the thin metal spacer on the spring.
8. compress the forks and fill oil. Always fill oil keeping the fork compressed. fill exactly 160 ml in each fork. The most neglected part by all mechanics regarding quantity.
9. Do not fit the top nuts of pipe. Now pull and compress the pipes slowly 10-15 times up and down. This will ensure that all air locks are removed inside oil. Now pull the shock and fit the top bolt by pressing hard and twisting until it catches thread.
THE MOST IMPORTANT HERE ARE:-
1. FILL EXACTLY 160 ML AND NOT MORE OR LESS.
2. ENSURE PUMPING OF SHOCKS 10-15 TIMES BEFORE FITTING THE TOP BOLTS AFTER FILLING OIL. THIS WILL ENSURE REMOVAL OF AIR FROM SHOCK. IF THIS STEP IS NOT FOLLOWED THEN SHOCK WILL BECOME HARD AND WILL BOTTOM OUT AND RETURN WILL BE UN CONTROLLED WHICH HERE VARIOUS FM COMPLAIN AFTER SHOCK OIL CHANGE.


Vibrations are there but you can minimize it by regularly checking the engine bolts at 2k interval and tightening it. Also use LOCTITE on bolts which will prevent there loosening so soon.
Check your bike as new bike doesn't mean perfect bike. Check for valves leakage and also tight tappets. A tight tappet will not allow the engine to rev freely.
Go for stock size and go for DUNLOP GEO CRUISER, which used to come in old CBZ. One of the best tyres in 100/90-18 size. No need for MICHELIN as they are difficult to find and also wet grip is bad in case of Michelin.
At 33k your tyres would have gone hard, so replace it.
Do not change tyre size as it will affect the handling and agility of bike which CBZ is famous for.
Congrats and welcome to the herd. For the squeaking noise just direct a high pressure jet of water at the rear shocks, this will dislodge the dirt and stop the squeaking noise.

Hi I had recently done a detailed study about these two bikes as one of my cousins were planning to take one of these. I certainly feel that the Hero Hunk is little bit on the upper side compared to the CBZ Extreme.

Ya of course both of them share the same engine specifications. But as far ride comfort and handling is concerned the Hunk comes on top. The styling element is always dependent on the users perspective. Apart from that I do certainly feel that the Hunk is the better bike.

For anyone looking for a detailed technical comparison of the two bikes, you might want to just refer this comparison: Hero MotoCorp CBZ Xtreme ES Vs Hero MotoCorp Hunk Rear Disc - PlannTo

What is the thud noise that bike makes when I completely press the rear brake while the bike is in motion(~40-50kmph)? [Xtreme~400kms on odo]

Updates on my extreme

I have been thinking about posting my ownership experience of my extreme and also buying experience but alas i cannot find time. I will try to post my buying experience and how i selected extreme as my bike. But first of all let me add some updates about my bike:-

As you all know bike is 99% time running on highways, so city use is very low. In city i use my JOY when i go to bhubaneswar on weekends. Also i will like to add that my extreme is presently ridden at 80-90 kph most of the time.

After my mechanic re-tuned the engine, mileage has been 55-58 kpl in city and 50 kpl on highways as on highways i rip a lot.

I had in sixth service shifted to SHELL ULTRA 10W 40 fully synthetic and its MRP is RS.750. But my retailer friend gave it for Rs.650.
It is fully SYNTHETIC and as with all shell oils have very high detergent.

Initially after shifting to SHELL i didn't find any difference but after i have clocked 500 km i found the difference. The engine revs freely and bike feels smoother at high revs. The detergents have cleaned the engine and i am feeling engine to be less restricted than before. But the downside is that the detergents have cleaned the carbon and now there is slight tappet noise, which i will fix this sunday, if i get time from repairing my joy which is highly doubtful.

Also i would like to add that i had shifted to 15T front sprocket of UNI and bike is feeling better on highway. Now 100 comes up at just 7100 rpm. Engine is feeling relaxed and in most of the cases no need to move higher than 6k rpm as at that rpm bike is at 85 kph. So nothing to worry.

I am adding some funny incidents on highway:-
1. One monday while i was riding to my posting place, on highways you know small villages come and go. Two monkeys on a DISCOVER comes out on highway and doesn't even wear helmet. What they thought i do not know but they tried to race me. I was at a steady 80 kph and at only 5.6k rpm. they overtook me and i let them go. But they began to slow down and pick up and all the antics. I thought they were using DISCOVER 150 and laughed at their foolishnes in trying to race me. by bike is modified with 15T sprocket. but they began to play with me and then i decided since these are villagers and it is their area it is dangerous to let them follow me or block me. I then decided to give them a race to remember. I was surprised to see it was a discover 100 and they were at speedo indicated 90. But poor fellow didn't knew that extreme pulls rapidly after 6k rpm. I just shifted to fourth and pulled hard and they were lost.
2. The same incident but it was a bajaj discover 125. I do not know what happens with these idiot villagers but they try to race with bigger bikes and well kitted riders.


The most important update, i forgot to mention, with the 15T sprocket, i decided to check the top speed on a deserted stretch of highway and so i was flat on tank and pulled all the way to stop. The bike climbed to 121 kph and was at 8700 rpm and was still climbing towards redline before i slowed down for traffic ahead.

The GPS indicated speed was 119.5 kph and i was mighty pleased and amazed. If i would have given a little time then it would have touched 120 or more true speed. Even overdrive had mentioned that it crossed 130 on speedo with stock sprocket, the analogue one. So the digital one being accurate shows 120 kph true speed with 15T sprocket which would have been 130+ in analogue speedo.

So 15T sprocket is worthy upgrade and will increase the top speed from 114 kph to 120 kph. Also to new owners, do not be dissappointed with speedo speed as extreme has accurate speedo and so shows less speed that other bikes, but true speed will be more.

So use 15T and see the difference. I was surprised when i saw speedo crossing 120 that too the digital one and i knew that bike had touched 120 true speed. i confirmed with GPS before arriving at final conclusion.

Sibun,

You know well how to calculate the theoretical speed of a vehicle from its overall gear ratio, engine rpm and circumference of the tyre. And it is needless to remind you that the actual speed on road of a vehicle will be much lesser than that theoretical speed due to transmission loss, tyre slippage on road, reduced tyre circumference due to under inflation, load it carries etc. etc.

Even these losses are neglected as if the bike is on rollers in a room and is without load, your Extreme with that fantastic modification of 15 teeth front sprocket which results overall gear ratio of 9.00313 with its 2001.1 mm circumference rear tyre cannot move at any speed more than 94.69 kmh at 7100 and 116 kmh at 8700 rpm. As I said earlier, this is theoretical speed; not actual speed on road.

And you forgot to mention or you don’t know that if the 43/14 final gear ratio is modified to 43/15, the loss of torque at the rear wheel is at the same ratio of gain in the speed i.e. about 7% which makes the bike sluggish and hence this modification is not acceptable.

Man, i do not know you but let me tell you it is not over inflated balloons but i think you are relying too much on net rather than practical knowledge. The logic which you have applied is applicable in theory. By the same logic a karizma will have a top speed of only 115 kph. But how come it has true top speed of 125 kph. Get your facts right and then post here rather than abusing others here. For your information overdrive and bike india both have mentioned the top speed of extreme to be at 113-114 kph true speed with stock sprockets. And this is not some calculated speed, but measured by race logic v box. So you have to believe in it and calculations are not always correct and my dear friend theory are practical are much different.I am not here to argue with you as i know you will never accept the true findings. regarding the 15/43 gearings then let me tell you extreme is already short geared and you will be left in search with another gear.the funny thing is that unicorn with same engine and less power runs 15/43 and there is no problem with it but when i shifted to 15/43 then problem is there, how silly. And for your information with 15/43 bike still touches red-line in fifth gear.And regarding that resistor then let me tell you if you do not know the function then stop commenting about it. I haven't seen you but your writing sums up how you are. And every bike doesn't make power in same way. Power curve also determines how a bike pulls in higher rpms and extremes are know to pull hard from 6k to 9k rpm. I have the overdrive magazine where it is mentioned. And regarding those villagers, if you do not know about here the situation stop abusing here. the said area is notorious for loot from bikers. So it is better to overtake them than letting them keep you in sight.

Guys , need some help urgently. I need some feedback on castrol bike zone in Banashankri , Bangalore . Has anyone used their services before ? My bike needs a service badly
I don't trust the ASC anymore.

wow thats a lot of gunk ...mine wasnt like that the last time i cleaned it ...ok will tell the mech to check the hub .

@Sibun thats a very detailed reply for the front fork oil change .I learn something from your posts daily

I have had near death experience driving through villages down south - so i agree on your comment calling them "idiots" - i drive to these villages once a month and have seen how they drive - they seem to have no fear whatsoever and have seen many deaths as a result - on one occasion this village idiot would have killed me for real if had not acted quickly .

Hi Sibun,

A hero hunk owner here, so you have changed your front sprocket right, with 15T? and how many teeth are there in stock sprocket, does rear sprocket change will make any changes in top speed?

Sorry to poke in middle , but i would like to say something here...xtreme when stock comes with a 14teeth front sprocket ..replacing it with a unicorn's 15teeth takes off load from engine , The final drive ratio is different and gearing becomes tall, in other words you can achieve cruising speeds at lower rpm...top speed thing can be confirmed by sibun , i drive both uni and xtreme on daily basis so can tell the difference So if u want fast accel. Use stock sprocket But if you are a highway runner and want a relaxed engine use uni sprocket (it reduces pickup a bit)

@Mr.Sibun

.


Congrats and welcome to the herd. For the squeaking noise just direct a high pressure jet of water at the rear shocks, this will dislodge the dirt and stop the squeaking noise.[/QUOTE]

Mr.Sibun! Your suggestion worked like a charm. The noise is no more. Thanks a lot. Actually my bike was delivered by the showroom guys without water-wash. They said that water-wash would render the teflon coat useless and blah blah. I was also in a bit of hurry, so just got the bike wiped off by the yellow cloth. The Service center guys once again proved themselves as dumb n stupid. Any way thanks a lot once again.

Carb tuning by a newbie

Its been a long time i posted something valuable and informative , So i begin with stating all the problems i had with my bike..(done 2500km)
1. Low mileage ( 35kmpl in city with sane driving )
2. High engine noise and roughness
3. Low and erratic pickup
4. Hot rpm 1600 , cold rpm 900

So first i proceeded to clean my air filter .. DONE

But again none of my problems were solved . So i checked my spark plug an found it to be uber lean ( Greyish- White )
So i thought of tuning my carb as sibun ji said, But was worried as i have never done this before and expecting it to completely screw it up.
But I gathered guts and went for it. I tried to tune it using Sibun`s method , Upto some extent i got success ,but still plug was greyish
Now i sanded the plug and once again tried to tune it , Now i am writing up my exact experience and plz note to clean Air filter and carb before tuning

1. Took out printout of the page 697 which had post of tuning ( Believe me for newbies it is an important step so that u could read and do every step systematically )
2. Remove the carb insulator ( thin grey pipe before intake manifold , It covers a brass tube )
3. Now tighten the AFR screw ( Its a 2-3 cm brass colored screw on the carb ) , Note that do not use HULK power to tighten it , use small amount of pressure to just close it)
4. If possible note how much turns u rotated the screw to close it , this will help in reverting in case something goes wrong.
5. Now close the protruding brass pipe from the carb with one of your thumb , If you dont close it , Bike wont idle and it will shut off.
6. Open or turn anti clockwise the AFR screw to 1.5 turns .
7. Now start the bike an set idle to 2000rpm by turning Idle screw ( its on right side of bike , Its a big Vertical screw below tank)
8. Now slowly turn the AFR screw anti clockwise , by slowly i mean 1/8th turn at a time, and wait for 7-8 sec before turning again.
9. You will notice that thr rpm raises as u slowly turn the screw , Dont hurry up as each turn alters the AFR and engine responds to it accordingly.
10. At a point you will see the rpm has gone to a highest point ( mine went to 3700rpm )
11. ON further turning you will see instead of increasing , the rpm drops ( The drop is not dramatic but 100-200 rpm change is there)
12. On further turning you will see the rpm stays constant and doesnt vary ( Stop turning further now)
12. Now slightly turn the AFR clockwise , so that it again shows highest rpm.
13. Reduce the idle to 1100-1200. and switch off bike , reconnect the carb insulator.
14. Drive and see the change in FE and power for yourselves.


My bike ran on stock setting till 2500 km and i never bothered to check the FE, once the problems arose , i had to do tuning myself.
As sibun ji said , Stock doesnt mean perfect setting , So now le me tell the after effects of tuning

1. Mileage shot upto 50-55 in city and 55-63 in highways
2. Power and throttle response is way sharper than before
3. Self start now sounds more like that of unicorn and engine is smoother
4. Rpm now is stable at 1100-1200 rpm and doesnt fluctuate much

Now coming down to the question why remove the grey insulator , If you dont remove it the rpm will keep climbing as you turn the screw and you wont get the rpm drop which indicates the correct mix point. I coudnt get the catch of vibration and smooth engine point that sibun mentioned , But nevertheless , I learnt an integral part of tuning today.

FYI I did this 3rd time and got it correct , So dont get dissappointed if you dont get it correct , Many FM here agree that carb tuning requires experience. So i end this story here.. Happy Carb Tuning ....

EDIT : This is a pic of spark plug after the tune and 90KM run

Today after tuning my carb in morning , I went to SVC to get bike serviced at 2700km , So bear with my report ..

1. Gave them vehicle at 9.30 AM , sharp , Clearly warned them not to touch carb.
2. Washed (as usual .. just satisfactory )
3. The mechanic test drove before any changes
4. He
a) Cleaned air filter
b) Cleaned front sprocket and chain ( from bit of their bowl of black petrol and rags )
c) Tightened chain and braked , clutch etc etc
d) Changed engine oil with barrel oil , When i asked the manager that i want the bottled oil , their reply was " Sir khali bottles problem bn gye the ,usliye hum ab barrel oil mangate hain " I burst into laughter after hearing this....
e) Cleaned exterior and gave me back at 11.15 AM.

In all average service...Also i wanted to check the top speed and accel. after the tune , so here are my experiences
1. Below 50kmph, the sheer weight of bike hampers pickup
2. As you cross 60kmph , you are in the zone of Xtreme , give throttle and it leaps forward.
3. After 80 kmph ( something 7K rpm, cant remember exact rpm range ) the bike pulls real fast to 100kmph
4. I had 20% of throttle and it was almost 109kmph , Due to traffic i couldnt get the exact top speed , But i agree that it can easily hit 114kmph
Note : My bike is completely stock , Uses 14/43 Teeth combination.

@all
Received the bike today they changed the clutch plate and some other parts and front fork seal...parts changed are as follows :







They also charged me extra for "consumables" the total including engine oil ( veedol swift 10W 40) + veedol fork oil came to Rs 2900.