Exactly, i was to post the same, but i think better not to.

The purpose of gearbox is only to multiply torque and nothing else.

Food for thought:-

In first gear, bike will do a burn-out and not in fourth gear, why?

Its because in first gear, the torque is multiplied.

Yes a pulsar will put out 75 Nm at rear wheel if reduction is 5:1, but it will be no use as speed will be pathetic and rpm will be over by the time the bike picks speed.

regarding NINJA 650 then it puts 75 Nm at crank. So if the first gear has a ratio of 3:1 then it will have a torque of approx 75*3= 225 Nm.

So bikes are provided with multiple gears, so that when high torque is required then rpm and speed is sacrificed and when speed is required torque is sacrifised.

That is the basic difference, torque is used to pull loads.

And torque at crankshaft is a function of displacement and there is no replacement for displacement holds true.

For example take example of R15 and KARIZMA,

A R15 will leave the karizma behind when outright performance is taken, but when both bikes have two persons and climbing hilly path, then the karizma will pull lot easily than R15.

So torque is a function of pulling ability, and power determines how long can it maintain the top speed and how much top speed it will apply. need to dig deeper into my Engg. books to reply it more clearly.

i will reply it in details and with pictures afterwards.

Can't wait.

Also Sibun,
During carb tuning, I used to allow air to enter the disconnected tube(the one with the secondary air injection) and see the response of the engine. If the engine climbed revs, I assumed that more air is a good thing, so turned the screw clockwise. I reached a point where the revs seemed to be highest and also allowing air to enter the tube didn't affect the RPM much. Is this method any good?

sibun, i think you shud post the 'carb tuning' section from the unicorn's manual were they have explained in detail the two methods available to adjust the carb, i.e. the gas analyzer and the idle drop method. That should clarify things for some ppl here.
I am sorry i had the pdf sent by shoeb, but unfortunately that's on my external drive which in turn is currently absconding!

Thank you s1d! I will visit the SC asap. But just curious to know this: "I forgot about the default spring position (factory set) after rotating. I think the spring should be compressed at the top of the shock absorber and relaxed near the end of the shock absorber. Please correct me."

I read his earlier posts regarding carb tuning, my question was purely to find out what was wrong in what I did!


I doubt it's of any concern really. But mine is compressed at the top and relaxed towards the bottom.

No, i had told you to block the pipe and you let air enter. you are running too rich.

Pardon my ignorance.

But what I used to do was, I used to allow air to enter for a few seconds and check how the engine responded and immediately close the pipe again. If it made the revs climb, I made the mixture more lean to increase the ratio of air in the mixture. Still wrong? :P

If so, I'll tune it again tomorrow. That is not an issue. But I'm just curious to know why this shouldn't work.

Just today the bike started giving that burning smell from the right side of the engine. Drove for about 20 kms in light city traffic, when I stopped for a call, I noticed this smell.
Something wrong with the bike? It is 40 kms away from it's first service.

Yes sir, it is of concern, the position in which the spring is mounted is important.

Service Manual.

A book named ”ABC of servicing And Maintaining Your Honda Unicorn” written by REGOS is available at FLIPKART.COM. I don’t know whether it a workshop manual by the manufacturer or a mere DIY guide.

If interested, please try here:

Ok S1d! So is the position of springs in my shocks case(I have mentioned in the original post) correct?

most probably yes, because there is no way you change the spring position(i.e. turn it the otherway) by just twisting it. Take a look at another cbz and see how it is setup if you want a 100% confirmation.

is there any one using engine kill switch in cbz xtreme ???

It is a mere DIY guide for beginners/ basic maintenance procedures such as Engine oil change,chain cleaning and adjustment ,brake adjustment , oil filter cleaning etc.
However it does not contain any advanced information such as bolt torque specifications, engine internals tolerances,service limits,overhauling service procedure etc.
It only complements the owner's manual.

is anyone here facing problems with cam tensioner ? its a small part near the engine , which apparently is causing some sort or "kat kat" noise (just like a loose tappet noise ) in my 2 year old 16k kms on the ODo bike.