I wonder why there's so much hate and sarcasm in your posts



Sent from my WT19i

punarvasu,

I was thinking on the same christo has said above!
First it was Sibun, now its Rohiit. I have seen your posts in other threads, but never seen sarcasm like this.

I do not know technically to the extent that I can makeout the exact topend of a bike from gearing, to talk about your bashing on Sibun.
But, regarding Rohiit's post - all are posting here their tips and suggestions, other FMs can comment on it. If all are satisfied with the stock, SVC set settings with their bikes, then there is no need of a forum like xbhp or a thread like this.
Again, i'm not technically competent to say Rohiit's steps are right/wrong, it is good that if you could point out what is wrong in Rohit's post, that it would be helpful for other FMs here.

P.S: Decently maintained XTremes do give 50-55kmpl in city

Thanks for the answer, one more thought changing rear sprocket will affect any positive or negative results in performance...? have you changed your bike's rear sprocket...?

@sarbonoxley
How much did the fork seal,oil and replacement cost you ?
Is it still bottoming ?

After calculating, I am getting the total cost of Parts including [email protected] % as Rs.1736 and labour as 476 incld s.tax@12% but the bill show something else.

All of us know that a mere adjustment of the air fuel ratio cannot – in any circumstance – improve the fuel efficiency of any vehicle by about 57 – 80% as claimed by RohIIT to whom I have no enmity. I was praising him if his claim is true.

A thread like this is to post our tips and suggestions but it does not mean that posting any nonsense in the pretence of helping others is a good habit.

What I said about gear modification is this: Changing the gear ratio of 3.071 to 2.867 increases the speed by about 7% but decreases the torque at the rear sprocket at the same ratio making the bike sluggish. I still think I am correct.

First of all let me tell that carburettor tuning and AFR adjusting are totally different. Disturbing the AFR settings is not suggested by any vehicle manufacturer as it makes the fuel rich or lean. In case it is essential, it is suggested to be done at a workshop with gas analyzer and digital tachometer; not by a roadside or local mechanic who does not have these facilities and hence pretend to be an expert enough to depend his ears.

About the level of brilliance of our engineers: we are the first ones using steam to cook food. The Europeans used it to make locomotives. Food is the most basic need of man and hence the engineers of ours – ours means those belong to our country; not to this forum – are more brilliant and nothing more than that.

If anything more, please PM me.

I followed the same steps as you did. :P Now to wait for the response.

Although, I did do one think differently. I didn't disconnect the tube from the brass pin. I disconnected the tube from its source, which helped me keep my hands away from the hot engine. Just plug the opening and we're good to go!

One more thing I did differently, when in doubt, I use to allow air to enter the disconnected tube and see the response of the engine. If the engine climbed revs, I assumed that more air is a good thing, so turned the screw clockwise. I reached a point where the revs seemed to be highest and also allowing air to enter the tube didn't affect the RPM much. Now I need to go out on a ride either today or tomorrow and find out how it's going to work.

Although, I would like someone to tell me if I went wrong somewhere.



You really are one patient person Sibun!

The bill seems to be the least of my worries bro ...in spite of the new clutch the bike still touches 80km/hr @ 7000 RPM and 90km/hr comes up @ 8000RPM....same as before .Though the speedo needle keeps on climbing i backed off after 8200 RPM as it was crossing 90km/hr ...I blew off my old bore like that touching 10,000RPM often.

I remember sibunji post earlier that the Xtreme will do 91km/hr at 7000 RPM then why is my bike falling short of 10km/hr at 7K rpm ?

Did you get the speedo checked. Sounds like defect in speedo. open the speedo pinion from the wheel and check the round pinion inside. Also each individual pinion is available,so do not fall into trick that the complete pinion is only available. OE supplies both the pinion. So check the round pinion and also the inner wire as if the edges are worn, then it will slip at high speed. So get the pinion and inner wire checked.

Sibun, could you please tell me if what I did here will work for mileage or not? :P

During carb tuning, I used to allow air to enter the disconnected tube and see the response of the engine. If the engine climbed revs, I assumed that more air is a good thing, so turned the screw clockwise. I reached a point where the revs seemed to be highest and also allowing air to enter the tube didn't affect the RPM much. Now I need to go out on a ride tomorrow and find out how it's going to work.

Try travelling with another bike side by side and check your speeds. Should help you diagnose your problem.

Moderator NOTE: Members are reporting this thread again. Please continue the discussions peacefully. Whatever has happened, let's ignore it. But, please avoid quoting old posts for sake of arguments.


@ sibun: Please be very careful of the words you say here. As you know, it can be used against you by other members.

Torque is not a factor of movement. Even if I push the wall, the amount of movement caused is 0 (ZERO), obviously because the wall won't budge, but the torque applied by me is definitely present.

My point is, that the same "X" amount of torque & power can be used to move different distances (within a range), using gearing. But the torque/ power itself won't change using gearing. For example, if my Pulsar makes 15 NM torque, and if I undergear it heavily by a ratio of 5.00, will it produce 75 NM torque? More than Ninja 650? Obviously not. Power/ Torque AND Gearing are two different levels. Gearing's role comes after Crankshaft lays down the power/ torque.


And I do not advise any one to race, unless someone actually attacks them. Do not assume that the people of a certain group are criminals only, or they'll attack you.
We don't support any kind of racing/ ego accelerating at Xbhp. If the other guy wants to overtake, please let him. Its not a matter of life and death.


@ punarvasu: Please, don't get personal and extend the argument further. Its not going to cause any benefit to anyone. I know what you said in PM about replying for final time, but you can be totally objective at it.

I hope no other message regarding this comes up again. If anyone feels a message is impolite/ gives wrong info, please report the post instead of arguing. We'll take the necessary action. The thread is bookmarked by me as of now.

Mr.Sibun! Your suggestion worked like a charm. The noise is no more. Thanks a lot. Actually my bike was delivered by the showroom guys without water-wash. They said that water-wash would render the teflon coat useless and blah blah. I was also in a bit of hurry, so just got the bike wiped off by the yellow cloth. The Service center guys once again proved themselves as dumb n stupid. Any way thanks a lot once again.[/QUOTE]

Hi Sibun (and everyone else as well)!

Need some help again! The squeaking sound has started to come again! I checked closely; but I did'nt find any traces of dirt. I observed the shock inner plastic pipe scratching the shock coil/spring and rotated the coil/spring to make a free space in-between those. The sound has increased. Any clue??
I forgot about the default spring position (factory set) after rotating. I think the spring should be compressed at the top of the shock absorber and relaxed near the end of the shock absorber. Please correct me.

Yeah even i had this doubt as i have to tap the speedo needle a couple of times to make it work today - the SC guys will most probably say like that only to get the complete pinion kit - i made my friends take a test ride and all are saying the bike feels like a new bike - i too can feel the difference with the new clutch plate - the clutch lever is little bit hard to pull now and with a heavy pillion the bike just picks up speed with a lot more ease .

Its not bottoming out now - it just glides over speed breaker with no sound whatsoever - i dont know the exact cost as this service center they put whatever name that fits them in the bill for some reason - for example they never touched the carb but if you look in the bill they would have charged me for carb cleaning - i have seen them do this often but dont know why.

Yeah will do that .

Also i think i can safely say that i veedol swift 10W 40 is a very good oil for the Xtreme - i really dont know how many kms i did exactly on this oil - i stopped counting after 2000 + kms- may be as high as 3000+kms - i dont know- i even went on this trip down south in that condition with non stop for over 180+ kms at a stretch lol - the only reason i changed this oil was i had to install the new clutch or else it felt like this will easily go on for some more time - one thing i dont understand is apart from the grade why cant veedol supply this quality of oil to hero SCs - i mean the SC oil supplied by the same company dont even feel good for 1500 kms

As a teacher I felt for these corrections, in bold letters.

Teaching like a BOSS

I thought i had replied to your original post and sibun's reply to it. i remember typing out a reply, but wonder what happened
spraying water is only going to temporarily 'remove' that noise. The solution is to remove the shocks and get them checked and set properly with some lubrication (greasing) at the joints