Same thing happened with my dads activa, when I drained the oil it was less than 200ml, but there was no smoke from exhaust too. Mech suggested to do a half engine rebuild, after which the bike is fine now. But in case of geared bikes there could be other issues, check the engine head and exhaust where it connects to the engine for any leakages.

+1 , oil consumption is only there if there is some kind of leakage from engine or gearbox . Also a worn out piston ring can cause oil to reach combustion chamber and burn with petrol , hence reducing its volume . A broken oil seal will also result in burning of oil , it may not be visible but it will be smoking. Try this in a dark place , start your bike and put light from torch to exhaust from some distance , you might be able to see some smoke if your bike has oil burning issue .

that to me looks like adulterated fuel and maybe a leaner mixture. i had a similar plug reading when i used 'local' petrol in an emergency when my bike ran out of fuel (bought from these local road side shops who keep a few liters with them).

Thanks ROHIIT and sinnerz2000 for your quick response. If I'm correct then worn rings results in poor pickup, but in my case pickup is still awesome and mileage is around 42 kmpl( I believe this is good enough for xtreme). Moreover my bike has done only 23k.
So, symptoms are really strange :banghead:

One thing you can try is laying down a layer of news paper below your bike at night and see in morning whether there is any leakage or not , also get compression checked by compression gauge from svc , they have that tool in most places . If your piston rings are busted you will be have lower compression ratio .Also which oils did you use in past and what was their drain interval ? Decently maintained xtremes give 50+ kmpl

I'll certainly try the newspaper method to determine leakage. I have used HH genuine 10W30 oil till 17k and since then I'm using shell AX7 SS 10W40 oil.
Can you please tell me how compression test is done and how much it costs.

Oem 10w30 lasts max for 1k kms rather than 6k which the bottle says , also compression test shouldn't cost much say around 100 rs . I haven't seen it but as i heard is they remove spark plug and insert the sensor part in spark plug hole , then they crank the bike and see what is the compression of the bike , not sure about the process mine friend once told me about this.

The R15 local brake pads working fine for HUNK. Performance is good for the price. It has fair bite

finally
bought these today

1 new bore kit = 3137rs
2 chain sprocket = 872rs
3 gear pedal/liver = 137rs
4 timing chain = 347rs
5 clutch plates = 1334rs
6 accelerator cable = 74rs
7 air filter = 132rs
8 gasket kit = 280rs
9 side panel rubber holders x 4 = 20rs

about to buy

10 air/fuel pipes =
11 kbx disk pads =
12 disk oil =
13 tank rubbers =
14 engine oil =

15 tyres a week later =


planing to buy pirelli sportD 110/80-18 for rear and stock size fs for front



so please help me , where i can get these pirelli tyre in madras

and any other major things i forget to change or any suggestion please mention

Kbx disk pad - 160rs Engine oil- veedol super swift 10w40 320rs (not sure) hh 10w30 185rsDisk oil ? Which one dot3 or dot4

@
I don't understand this trend of switching tyres to PSD. Is it because of looks or for increased grip and safety ?

I never had any problem with the stock MRF tyre skidding either in dry or wet conditions on any of my bikes.
In 99% cases who complain of rear tyre skidding on braking,I came to know that their braking practice was wrong. They used only the rear brakes which results in the rear tyre locking due to the shift of weight during braking/deceleration.

Try to learn modulating the throttle and use both the brakes to stop/slowdown the bike effectively and safely. Most of us have the tendency to apply the rear brakes more than the front brakes and that is the one of the biggest reason for accidents.

Others who have upgraded from a chetak/have used a chetak/scooter in the past are the one who are more scared in using the front brakes as it was considered as a taboo to use the front brakes in those scooters.One sudden application of brake would mean getting thrown off the scooter/stoppie/toppling over .

If you really feel that you will be more safe in using PSD then go ahead.
No offence to anyone. Just my opinion,at the end of the day it is your call,its your bike,its your money,it is you who ride. Who am I to say something ?

Please do bear in mind that your ride will definitely feel heavier post this tyre upgrade. The ZMR can pull it off, not so sure with the CBZ and Hunk. Having said that PSD is a very good tyre. You could have checked out Zapper Q as well.

Stock Zappers are good but not great, if one wants outright grip. But the dreaded Braking techniq used by many riders is the reason for false reviews regarding brakes and tyres.. I've up graded from Kinetic Honda to Bajaj Bravo to Bikes.. Even in Bajaj Bravo, I used front brakes, have also grabbed them with max force, have locked front wheels and not just once. What one needs is, to use correct technique. A few days back, saw a dude overspeeding in his Pulsar, there was a wide, 90 degree turn after some 100~150 meters (from where he over took me) he must have thought that its possible to take that turn at 70~80kmph (which is true) but without correct technique (i.e. counter steering) its not possible. so instead of turning at the turn, he went straight away, into a parked wagon-r and dont ask how bad he looked (no helmet!)

Its because of the riders' perception that:
1. Beefier rear looks hot.
2. PSD being a grippy tire will hold on to any surface 365 days a year.
3. There won't be any wheel lock, no matter how crappy braking technique one may have.
4. One can attack corners at >70 kmph even in monsoon.

Now, I changed the stock rear on my bike with a PSD when this craze wasn't as much as it is now. Hence, I got PSD 110/18 for ~2900 compared to 4000 today.
The grip is much much better. I have run it for almost 10k kms nd seems it'll last another 8-9k kms at least.

Rear wheel has locked twice since I plonked PSD, so point 3 is negated.
The tire slips at speeds over 60 kmph in ghats under heavy rainfall, but does much better than stock. Still points 2 and 4 negated.

Hence, only point 1 survives.
But am I unhappy? Hell no! It does what it was designed to do. Its we, who expect god like performance from these tires and feel cheated in some way or another.

After the upsize, there is marginal drop in acceleration (hardly felt in a Karizma, but ride a bike with PSD and stock tire back to back and you'll get what I'm saying) and mileage dropped by 1 kmpl to be exact. I used to get 42 kmpl on an average and now I get 41 kmpl under similar conditions in city. Highway wala mileage is constant at 45-48 kmpl under constant riding @ 75-85 kmph. Short blasts to 120 kmph bring it down to 43-44 kmpl and I'm not complaining.

I agree with all of you guys about braking techniques and sport demon vs stock zappers , but in my opinion i would have upgraded tyres to geo-cruiser , because i live in a city which has roads like mars surface , so tyres like sport demon are not suitable , also psd is of softer compound and therefore more vulnerable to punctures , i agree with fact that rear + zapper + rain + eggheads is a sure accident case . But stock zappers are well suited for people like me who have to battle potholes . Saying that selection of tyres is completely dependent on driving conditions , it is no good to upgrade to psd if you have no roads to drive them on .