Check this post by PSR ji.

I'm afraid if you are wrong Sir.
Yes, the stock bulb is 35+35 W. But when we press pass switch, AFAIK the power is coming from battery, not from alternator. So there is no problem of handling of both filaments, as one is from alternator and other from battery.
The power from Hunk's headlight winding is weak, so is for most of the Hero Honda's, which is the reason for poor headlight output of almost all HH bikes, at idling there is hardly anylight, so it will not be able to handle both filaments.
Its very disappointing that they dont even try to work on it. The headlights of Apache's, Unicorn's and Pulsar's put us to shame

And you are right reg the engine kill switch, Rs.750 for engine kill switch is too much, but as you said, if fit n finish is good and the switch comes on right handle bar, then its OK. Actually a switch in series with the original ignition switch will do the job.

I am skeptical. Need expert opinion on this.
AFAIK, the RR is what converts the AC from alternator into DC to charge the battery. Then where do we install the additional rectifier..?

Guys, regarding the light on my Hunk - I've always been a bit too disappointed. In fact as someone rightly pointed out, the headlight output is quite weak in HH bikes. But what I found was that when the headlight is on low beam and I pressed the 'Pass Light Button', the light spread on the road was hundred times better than just the High/Low beam. What I was doing essentially was switching on both the low and high beams at the same time. What I was thinking that -is there a way to modify the circuit so that when we switch on the high beam, the high beam light stays with the low beam one? Will it drain the battery too soon when going for extended periods of night riding? Has anyone done it at all? What I'm suggesting is no swapping of 35W to 55/60W and neither any coil rewinding stuff.
Any ideas? I am quite interested in beefing up my headlight intensity and spread but am a total novice when it comes to motorcycle electricals.

Thank you for the underlined information, I checked it now only. You are right.

(Bold words) .The out put of the alternator is directly proportional to rpm so at idle speed the voltage produced is not upto 12v. So less light.and flickering.To give better light hero moto could increase the winding but then at higher RPM more voltage will be there, which will diminish the life of the bulb .So the middle path design.

Power from an alternator depends on the external impedance/resistance. 60/55 12v bulb has lesser resistance hence will be able to draw more power.(I= V/R).Sure at low RPM light will be less but at 3k +sure it will be better than 35watt bulb.Now comes the overloading part. Sure a company like hero will not design the winding for 3 amps the winding will take at least 5 amps.and 140 watt alternator will be able to deliver.

I have a 60/55/w spare bulb when I get time I will change it and shall report here.

In the mean while Can any body Get me a wiring diagram of our CBZ?pl.

even i installed the 55/55w bulb, but the light output has not significant difference but the pass light which works on DC is pretty good.........
is that because the low beam works on AC?????

enlighten us plz

Without the regulator the voltage will be more than 40volts at 6000 Rpm which will blow any 12v bulb in no time.
Experts,please throw some light on this lighting issue.

I don't know too much about the electrical part of it. But I just followed the instructions given on this thread:



Tons of info to clear any doubts. Also, yes 750 is inclusive of the Apache switch assembly. I prefer the Hunk's switch assembly. So will want to just add the extra switch.

RR is regulated rectifier. Rectifier is a net work of diodes . If you use one diode it is called Half wave rectifier When you use two diodes it is full wave rectifier .when you use four diodes it is called bridge rectifier . The draw back of all these is the out put voltage will vary with input voltage . You can regulate the voltage using Regulator I.C. like 7805 for 5v 7803 for 3v etc. You want 12v DC you should give more than that like 13 or 15 v.The regulator will clip the voltage and give you 12v in doing this lot of heat will be produced so a heat sink is provided. To assemble a circuit It will cost about Rs.150/-

4 diodes 10 amps one capacitor 2200mfd 25v One regulator ic for 12v . 10amp., one heat sink .Screw the reg. on the heat sink solder the other components .out put two wires and input two wires put epoxy resin +hardener and box it , This is your RR and you pay Rs.1100/-. He has connected this to headlight supply and out put is connected to battery for charging.Stock RR charges at 0.4 AMP.

A battery can be charged safely with 1/10 of its capacity i.e a4Amp.Hr. battery should be charged by 0.4 amp.so You can not drain the battery with 5 amp.continuously. . your RR should be giving this amp,His new RR setup Will Charge the battery and Light the bulb. Battery shall give power when at idle speed.

You are right here . Last post I clarified it, Voltage( called open circuit ) is directly proportional to RPM.
As we load the system the voltage will come down.

Now point to clear is whether our bulb is working on AC or DC in stock system
1) If on AC The alternator out put can not be directly given .You have to clamp the voltage . Simplest method is connecting a resistor across the terminal. And bolt it with a heat sink. Draw back is wastage of energy.

2) If on DC the out put of alternator is passed through a RR . This is more easy .

looking the circuit diagram provided in the forum.


1st diagram- stock system the out put of alternator is taken for RR and pulse generator(AC)

2nd)all the out put of the alternator is directly given to Ape RR and out put of RR feeds bat.and all system
here pulse generator is connected to DC (harness)

If Rewinding is done with thicker wire no. of turns might be less for each branch (pole) hence pulse gen. branch is also connected in series to get standard voltage and a single out put is taken and directly feeds the APE RR.

Any way thank you one and all who took part in our discussion >I admit I had Some Misconception thanks for enlightening. Now I have one doubt. in our stock system how head lamp is isolated from battery.Have you seen an extra diode near the battery?

Electrical clarification

From yesterday there is a great dilemma over electrical of bike.
So here i am clearing all your doubts.
Lets start with basics:-
1.What is RR?
A RR is nothing but regulator and rectifier.
2.Why is the name Regulator & Rectifier?
Well the unit has two functions. It regulates the AC current and converts a part of AC current to DC and rest regulated AC to electricals.So basically RR unit converts AC to DC and also regulates the AC current by capping the voltage.
3.How does a RR unit know how much to give for AC and how much to give for DC?
It is a function of coil to determine how much to give for AC and How much to give for DC.
Lets say for CBZ extreme.
WE know every thing except headlight runs on DC. So RR unit must send 3 amps to AC circuit and rest to DC. So what happens is that in coil the no. of poles are divided. Suppose there are 8 poles. So after three poles the coil will be grounded and rest five poles will also be grounded. One wire from 3 poles will feed the regulator and the ground will serve as negative. Similarly the 5 poles will feed the rectifier and the ground will serve as negative. Basically the grounding of coil varies with the ratio of AC and DC.
4. How can we make CBZ/HUNK full DC or RUN 60/55 WATT bulb?
From the above point you can easily understand how the current is distributed between AC and DC circuit. So what happens is that the RR unit sends only 3 amps to headlight and rest is wasted as heat. So direct fitting 60/55 bulb will not light because of regulator as it regulates the maximum current and voltage.
Hero has done the most foolish thing in giving the ac to headlight and rest all dc because it will cost more for ac and dc set-up and also the wiring gets complicated. Instead full DC would have been easy.
We know our extreme produces 140 watts of electrical power.
so 140/12= 11.67 amp.
Load-
Headlight- 35 watt- 35/12=2.9 amp.
tail light- 0.5 watt- 0.5/12=0.04 amp
stop light- 4.1 watt- 4.1/12= 0.34 amp
meter led- 4 watt(NA)- 4/12= 0.3 amp
Parking bulb- 5w- 5/12 = 0.4 amp.
so total= 3.98 amp.
Adding Indicators, DC CDI, e.t.c comes to around 6 Amps. Remember indicators are momentary loads so they are not important. Even starter motor is also not calculated as when operating the starter every thing else would be turned off.
So in a nut shell our stock coil is more than enough. But the problem is this AC and DC partition. So what we can do is we must remove the partition.
For this we must remove the coil from the ground and join together so that eight poles become a single unit. Now both the ends of the coil must be fed to a rectifier. We can use APE rectifier as it can take load up to 20 A without sweating. By this way we can get all 11 amps to battery. Now regarding wiring just take the output from ape rectifier and feed the battery. Ground the negative wire to body as it will serve the negative for entire wiring.
Now take the wire to headlight and feed the wire to dc through the ignition.
Now your bike will be full DC.
It will take hardly 30 mins if you are well versed with the bike.
So what you have to do is:-
1. unground the coil negative and make the coil a single unit.
2. Feed the wires from coil to APE rectifier
3. Lead the wires from ape rectifier to battery.
4. Ground the negative from battery.
5. You can use the stock wiring, just cut the wire to headlight from the old RR unit connector and connect it to stock DC circuit. Your DC conversion will be complete.

this is getting bookmarked (and posted in my blog with due credits) for the simplicity of the info provided.

thanks a lot buddy

Thanks for the credit and your appreciation. Actually everything can be solved in a simple manner. It is we who makes the system complicated. Off-course it is not our fault. It is the education system which made us like this. While we are doing engineering, MBBS, e.t.c anything which can be explained simply and easily is made complicated. When we cannot understand anything our professors just advice us to mug them up and vomit on the exam paper. Nobody is interested in understanding and thinking practically. Everybody is studying with only the motive of scoring high percentage. We follow foreign authors books but similar or better books are written by our indian authors which helps in understanding the concept. So whole point is that we are ourself making the matters complicated. I always try to find the simplest of solution and do it in such a way that i can make the other person understand.


What happened to your hunk. Just ask me for any help anytime.

@ sibun

Man, that was one awesome post.
Thanks a lot.

Now, all we have to spend on is a new RR, right..?
Is APE RR the only compatible one..?
While searching an old thread, saw a post in which it was said, Avenger RR fits and works well with CBZ. Is that so..?
Are there any other alternatives to APE RR like this..?

I have mentioned the difference in between RR and rectifier. Avenger has a RR while piaggio has only a rectifier. Besides ape rectifier is an intelligent charger.
In avenger RR unit it has two outputs. One is AC and other is DC. The difference is that it can give a output of 5 amps in ac.
So it is better to use APE rectifier and convert to full DC. For me it will not take even 15 min and i can do it even on the road side.
Moreover our hunk/extreme has 140 watt alternator which translates to 11.7 amp which will surely burn the rectifier if the coil is made a single output.
So use APE rectifier.
I have a different plan. After warranty gets over i have the following plan:-
1. Convert to DC as i have explained.
2. The stock bulb will be there.
3. Fit two projectors on leg guards on both side using GI sheet tubes as mentioned in GS thread.
4.Then i will fit 25 watt H7 bulbs in both the projectors.
5. Each projectors will have individual switch. So that depending on the requirements i will switch the required light to assist the headlight.




Like this but instead of HID i will go 25 watt H7 bulbs which will assist the original headlight.
Since all will be running on DC i, they will provide best illumination.
The picture belongs to xbhp member firegun.
You can find more :-
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/823567-post16313.html
I will also change the current battery cage to bigger one by fabricating a new one from GI plates and fit 7A battery.