@bloggingwheels

thanks for the advice man

will enjoy my ride and will not worry unnecessarily ....

just curious... which Yamaha you were riding before ?

@satson

was riding yamaha ss 125(2008) which i sold recently. .....

Piston doesn't wear out. Its the bore which wear out as a result the piston becomes loose. One method of checking it is when you insert the piston without rings in bore then if you insert is straight then it will pass freely but if you insert it slightly off-axis then it will jam. The standard clearance between piston and bore is 0.02 mm. Your bore will be worn out after so many kilometers. Just change it to new kit. Regarding limit, i have seen engines which have bore so worn out that the next oversize piston passes through without re-boring. Check the con rod play. If it will be having excess play then open the complete engine and change the con-rod. I suggest a complete engine overhaul and post here if you want to know what all wants to be changed.
Congratulations on new bike.
Regarding side panels having huge gap, do not worry it will be taken care of in first service. And regarding service do not go to Rohan for service. Contact me, i bought my bike from rohan but do the servicing in KHARAVELA motors and the mechanic there is my friend and he will take special care of bike. Contact me and i will introduce you to the service center and the mechanic. Never go to rohan for service.
Horn needs to be tuned, will do in first service.
Regarding run-in, nothing is mentioned in manual but i follow what my joy manual suggested.
1st gear <15 kph
2nd gear< 25 kph
3rd gear< 40 kph
4th gear< 50 kph
5th gear< 60 kph.
This is for first 1k kms.
I follow this in my every bike and they are the best maintained bikes that you will ever find.

thanks for the reply buddy. i do have some play in the piston and bore. but i do believe that i have a sensitive hand for such things and often, i misjudge on such things hence i need the exact value that the company specifies.

for example, last time i replaced the rear swing arm bush and later found that the old one could have still done an year of abuse. and it was a loose stud as the culprit. hence i need the exact values.

I will definately check the clearence with a dial guage.

here are some pics of my xtreme.

To all who are waiting for brake pad removal pics - I will definitely post it tomorrow. Weekend got screwed with some academic stuff at college.

After much deliberation, I got my bike converted to Full DC today. Plonked in a 55/60W XTremeVision Bulb from Philips for Rs.500 and I am very very happy with the results. Here are the associated costs:
1) Coil Rewinding: 650
2) Magnet Charging(?): 300
3) Piaggio Ape's RR Unit: 1110
4) Labour Charges for wiring: 400
5) Bulb: 500

Total: 2960

Got it done from Ruby Electricals in Bangalore. Good job. I may get an engine kill switch fit from there as well. On enquiry, the person in charge Mr. Kennedy whom you can contact on 9945138274 had quoted 750 for the same.

Now back to my original question, could any of the experienced hands help me out with this? When I ride for a long time even gently ( On the lines of a few hours in traffic), I hear that the engine makes a strange ringing noise, not loud, but audible. Never adjusted valve clearances, tappets etc. Everything is just stock settings. Why is this? I notice now that after riding for a while, at idling, it is not much but is clearly audible >2K RPM and increases continuously thereafter. Further details here:

We all are facing this problem. It has become more n more after 3rd service.after 10K its not as usual.if u compare this with previous xTremes/hunks you would definately see the difference. they seems so quiet even if u r standing in front of it. we have tried 10W30,20W40 but no use.sound has increased.

EKM-Biker is using synthetic oil now,lets wait for his response.

P.S : changed my airfilter @ 140rs,sparkplug : BOSCH @ 70 rs. stock one was OK but kept it for emergency use. Accelerator is normal by itself.Spring action is back . throttle response has improved as my air filter was almost brown .

Its not that old model extremes are smooth. You must know how to maintain your bikes and choose good mechanics so that the bike remains smooth through out its life.
Some of the maintenance:-
1. Change the air-filter at 8k
2. Clean the carburettor at 10k
3. clean the chain at 5k and lubricate with SAE 90 gear oil.
4. Every 2k open the front caliper and push out the piston by pressing the brakes 2-3 times. Clean the pistons with a wet cloth and push it back. Clean the brake pads and refit it. Grease the caliper sliding pins and refit it.
5. Check the chain tension every 2k and check if it is not too tight or too slack.
6. Chain engine oil every 1.5k and use good quality 10W 30 oil such as VEEDOL take-off, shell AX3, Motul 10W 30, Elf 10W 30, or semi synthetic such as SHELL AX7 10W 40, VEEDOL super swift 10W 40, or motul 3100 10W 40.Never use 20W 40 in extreme.
7. Check whether the brakes are not binding and wheels are free to rotate.
8. Check whether the valves are not leaking. I method of checking is lower the idle to 800 rpm. The idle will flicker but the engine will not turn off. If it switches off then valves are leaking. Causes are valves not setting properly or tight tappets.Most common is inlet valve leaking. Rarely exhaust valve leaks. If exhaust valves leaks then engine will never start.
9. Carburettor tuning should be spot on. It is not a knob that you will run it rich or lean according to your wish. If you are running rich then be prepared for valve leakage due to carbon deposits.A rich running engine will feel strained at high rpm and a lean running engine will knock at low rpm.

Happy Independence day to all



@ sibun First of all Heart felt Thanks to you On two counts.

Your advice to reverse the front sprocket, I did it now only and went for a test, perfectly all right now(For my super splendor, sound after removing a link).
now a request to enlighten me as to the theory or logic. what actually happens when we cut the link and what happens when we reverse the front sprocket?
I am from electrical branch so mechanical logic is little.(Ist year's elements of mech. engg. only)

secondly for your points 8 & 9 , especially for the underlined line, may become a pointer to our problem.

Did you convert just to put 55/60 bulb .Don't you know our Alternator is 140 watts?
.
Our stock bulb is 35/35 watts i.e. two filaments of 35 watts. when we press our pass light switch both filaments light up . ie 35+35 = 70 watts. so your 55/60 will easily work on stock system.If you are afraid of the wire capacity . u can change to any 1.5 sq. mm pvc wire from bulb to switch and change your turn signal bulbs to L.E.D

If you look in other threads you can see people using 55/60 with out any problem. on stock system like karizma and yamaha.

Now kill switch . If you are changing the whole switch system on handle bar ,the rate is O.K. But the same effect can be done by the addition of single additional switch. and two pieces of wire connecting to the ignition key switch.with less than 50 Rs.

Magnet charging has to be done only when your bike is very very old.i.e. after prolonged use the unit magnets gets out of alignment. So bringing them back to alignment is known as charging.Hope your bike is new, so too the magnet whose mag power can not be increased .So u are taken for a ride .Should have come on the forum for advice before.

Brake pad rmoval and cleaning

Here are the pic I promised.

1. Take out the safety pin from the holding pin

2. Place a nail in the small hole at the bottom of the calipper, (on the inner side) touching the holding pin tip.

3. Hit moderately 4-5 times with a house hold hammer

4. The holding pin slides out. Pull it out.

5. The pads should fall down. If it doesnt, pull it out yourself

6. Clean the pads - rub it with a dry cloth, rub it on the sand paper, and again with a dry cloth.

7. Put the pads back in, making sure each pad goes to its correct side.

8. Put the pin back in, passing through the holes on the pads, and then use the same nail - hammer technique to put it completely back in.

9. Put back the safety pin.

Are you sure about this..?
Coz as far as I know, if we put a 55W bulb in place of a 35W, it will give no better illumination than the stock 35W. I dont know the exact electrical theory behind this ( coz am a civil engg. not an elecrtical enggnr ) but it is said that the stock set up sends 35W to the HL socket, and a 55W bulb will be able to us this power only.

No battery issues. I didn't know it was a common issue. Will highlight this in the next service.

I wanted to convert to DC primarily. But I did read on this very forum here:



That you cannot just plonk in a 55/60W bulb. I did feel the 'Charging' was unnecessary. I've done 14k kilometers till now, still not reason enough for charging. Yes, the 750 is the cost inclusive of a new switch assembly, of the Apache's to be specific.

Exactly what I've heard, Which made me convert the bike to DC and rewind coil.