Hi folks, My Hunk has clocked 4500 kms till now. Mileage is 45-48 kmpl. What I'm worried is that my Hunk reaches to 80 kmph easily but after that it struggles a lot. It's top speed is only 104 kmph. Is the top speed really low for this bike ? Even Honda Shine overtakes me at these speed. I'm using Gulf 20w 30 grade oil and I've clocked 150 Kms till now with this Oil. The Vibrations are somewhat dampened at 40-55 kmph but as soon as bike reaches 55-60, there is immense vibration in engine and I get a good foot massage with it. Is there something wrong with my bike ?

The 3rd service is scheduled at 5000 kms. If mechanics at SVC don't really do anything with Engine, how do people feel that their Bike is smoother and more responsive after service ?

Also, I regularly go for 100 km long stretch every weekend to enjoy the road and ride, but the above issues ( maybe minor ) is ruining the experience.

@Sibun, Where do you live in BBSR ?

Its not just difficult here but impossible ...searched everywhere and finally had to go to chennai for some chore ...even in chennai no one has it even the hero parts distributor doesnt have stock ....one SC told me to buy the complete seal kit as they called it for Rs 140+ ....then i found the HONDA authorized parts distributor in GP road and the lady was polite enough to open a new packing kit to get me the 2 oil seals ....i think this is the one she said both uni. and shine come with same oilseal :



cost me Rs 34 .

will try to get the resigrip clear 330 and keep it as backup from now on ... can it be used on the head gasket too ?

also i saw this BUFFALO feeler gauge it had gauges for 0.08mm and 0.13mm but no gauge for 0.12mm so i didnt buy it but it looked very well made for Rs 140.

found their website : Buffalo Tool Products - Buffalo Tools India

Yeah ditto my bike felt like this only at first...some engines takes time to become smooth...my old bore was like yours only wouldnt go above 105km/hr first...my advise would be to not stress your new engine much at least for 10,000 kms...keep it below 100km/hr...also you are using the wrong oil grade... either use 10w30 or 10w 40 never use 20w 40...frankly speaking i dont think you need to worry about top end at all...i practically live on the highway... 80-95km/hr is more than enough for cruising safely...i used to ride like you only....redlining everyday keeping mt RPM above 8000 most of the time...maybe thats the reason my engine went kaput so early ... now i am keeping my new bore below 80Km/hr for 10,000kms...already completed 5000kms like this .

I screwed up today.

I wanted to change the brake fluid in the front brake because the fluid is around 10k KM old. I could open one screw easily, but damaged the head on the other one. I tried with a different screwdriver also, but no use. It's as good as stuck. What can I do now?

Also, Sibun, what is the individual costs of the Major Kit and Minor Kit? Also, the Major Kit is the calipers the actual disc brake assembly while the Minor kit is the Master Cylinder?
Can I get the Bybre minor kit and expect better braking or must I change both Major and Minor kit to get the bite(I know about the ANL pads, just asking )?

if it had .04 and .08 , then i guess you can combine both and use it for .12mm

Looks ok right?

No worries man. relax. Same thing happened to me.
Showed it to a mech. He sprayed WD40 and hammered it. The thing was out in no time.
Better let the mech do it.

Dude its damn cool .How did you do it? is it easy job?

I live in POKHARIPUT area in bhubaneswar. It is near the airport o i can say i live behind the airport.
Regarding your top speed, have you crouched because in HUNK we sit more upright than extreme, so the wind blast is high. And do not red-line the bike always. It is a proven fact that redlining always decreases engine life.
I think your engine is running slightly rich which is not letting the engine rev. Lean the mixture by 100 rpm and test. A rich mixture will not allow the engine to rev hard.
Actually the resigrip is a gasket sealant and is used on head gasket. But these idiots use M-seal which becomes difficult to remove. The resigrip is a jelly type gel which is easier to remove.
You can see there website, they have every type of adhesives.
Resinova:-
AUTOMOBILE ADHESIVES
And regarding your bore it is a good practice to keep the bike from redlining everyday. Its because red-line is given the name because it is a danger zone for engine and should be reached in special cases and not always. 100 Kph is more than enough for everyday highways as in INDIA everybody try to show bike riders finger. Be it pedestrians, cyclist or car owners, they do not care about bikes.
But an engine not reaching top speed is a problem and must be looked at. Even my JOY touches 110 kph on speedo regularly.
There is nothing to worry. Just take it to a mechanic and he will open it. Also if those screws are not available then there is a trick, go to scooter spares shop and ask him to give scooter(bajaj chetak) headlight screws. They are direct fit and actually better as they are flat headed screw and thus will open with flat screw driver. But the OE are philips headed screw and get damaged while opening.
For opening without damage follow these procedure:-
1. Get a thin scooter(bajaj) bore stud.
2. Hit the top of screw with the stud by hammer.
3. Use a good quality(TAPARIA) philips head screw driver whose edges are sharp and with both hands press upon the screw with force.
4. Then ask some one with plier to hold the handle of screw driver and give a sudden twist. This will loosen the screw.
5. Follow the same on other screw and after loosening use only screw driver to open it.

Regarding master cylinder kit and caliper kit. No need of those at 10k if your oil is not contaminated with water. Heck, if required go for master cylinder lit and no need of caliper kit.
The master cylinder kit consist of :-
1. Piston and spring
2. The pushrod for piston to lever
3. The cir-clip which holds the piston in master cylinder
The Caliper kit consist of:-
1. Two pistons
2. Oil seals
Usually the caliper kit doesn't get damaged. If the pistons are not returning then only the oil seals are cleaned.

But at 10k no need of those. Usually get KBX and they are best and BYBRE is nothing but joint venture between BREMBO and KBX.
The master cylinder kit for kbx is Rs.240.

No need of yours and just follow my step:-
1. Cover the tank and visor with cloth as brake fluid will damage paint.
2. Remove the lever from the bolt.
3. Take out the tiny pushrod along with lever.
4. Take a thin screw driver and push the piston and with other hand using a cir-clip remover remove the cir clip.
5. slowly remove the screw driver and the piston along with spring will come out.
6. Clean the piston with spirit and wipe with cloth.
7. Sludge on piston will cause the piston not return and reduce brake efficiency,feel and jam the pad to disc.
8. Now insert the piston and push it with screw driver. Fit the cir clip in original position with the cir clip remover and the open end of cir clip will face its original direction.
9. Now fit the lever with the push rod.
This will remove all problems of brake feel and efficiency.
Now open the master cylinder cover as opening the piston would have inserted air.
Follow these steps:-
1. Soak all the brake fluid using sponge.
2. Pour new brake fluid upto the max level
3. Do not open the bleeder nipple on the caliper.
4. Slowly press the lever. You will see air bubbles rising.Do it slowly or the brake fluid will shoot with pressure.After bubble stops release lever
5. Continue this till bubbles stop rising.
6. By this we have removed all air
Now we will replace the old oil. By doing the above process you have removed the air but have not replaced the old fluid.
Now to replace old fluid follow this.
You need two persons for this.
1. Fix a transparent pipe on the bleeder nipple and dip it in a bottle so that the brake fluid doesn't fall on the alloys and caliper. You can get the pipe in spares shop, where you ask them for cheap transparent petrol pipe.
2. Fill the reservoir with fluid and just place the cap on reservoir.
3. Now press the lever hard.
4. Let the other person open the bleeder nipple lightly. The fluid will come out through pipe.
5. The lever will get pressed till the handle. Do not leave the lever when bleeder nipple is open or it will suck air.
6. Keeping the lever pressed tighten the bleeder nipple.
7. Once again keep pressing the lever and loosen bleeder. tighten nipple and then release lever.
8. Open the reservoir cap and check level and re-fill. Go on doing this till new oil comes out.
9. After new oil comes out. check level and fit back the reservoir seal and cap.
Brake overhaul is complete.

This is a very dangerous method because when you press the lever (it is not possible to demonstrate how much is 'slowly' by simply mentioning it here) the brake fluid is going to shoot up (i have seen this happen and almost blinded a guy) even when you have soaked up the fluid in the reservoir(which is again not recommended to use a sponge to avoid contamination), there is still some fluid left in the brake hose which will shoot up.
If for some reason people are not comfortable with the normal bleeding method using the bleeder valve/screw, then i recommend you remove the fluid in the reservoir using a syringe (to empty it out little at a time) and then add fresh fluid, then close the reservoir and pump the lever a few times and then press the lever and tie it down with a rope or cable-tie to the handle bar grip and leave it for a couple of hours so that the air will rise up into the reservoir.

I tried WD40 too, still the damn thing wouldn't come off. Hope the mech can do a better job. :P

Thanks. I posted how I did it in the earlier page,

Easy job, now, yes. Yesterday, lots of trial and error, but feels nice to finally get it done.

I only wanted to change the master cylinder because the screw is well, 'screwed' :P But if changing the Master Cylinder will ensure better braking, I will definitely go in for it. 240 is a nominal amount to pay for safety in terms of better stopping power. But I assume KBX Master cylinder will not be available at the Hero spare parts dealer. Do I just ask for KBX Master Cylinder for Xtreme/Hunk/Unicorn at any other shop? I've posted a link below to download the prices of Bosch's products, could you please go through it and tell me the compatible part number?



I have seen the fluid replacement process personally, so I am aware of how much is too much. I suggest first timers to go as slow as possible with patience to get a hang of it first rather than messing it up completely.

Tying the cable is a good method but pumping is a better method.
If you are fearing for brake fluid shooting then just place the reservoir cap and hold it by a finger and pump. No need to screw the cap. After pumping 5-6 times open the cap to see level and re-fill and again continue.

It is not the complete master cylinder kit but the the piston,pushrod, cir clip only.
No need of changing complete master cylinder. Change only the kit.
The KBX part No. is KBXTW007.
The complete master cylinder is P7070500.
You can get KBX kit from where you get KBX brake pad. Most of the outside spares shop stock it.

And hero honda is also providing KBX or BYBRE brakes. Just make sure to get after june 2011 stock.
But get from outside in KBX packing.
By the way nice spares catalog.

The Mseal advise was dished out by the HONDA SC people ....hero people dont use any kinda paste even if you buy from outside and give it to them....at least the head mech here stays away from any kinda paste to seal things .Resigrip i am not able to find here locally only available in chennai i think.

Today got the head cover opened to replace the oil seal but after the head mech did this job and took it home its making this "CHIK CHIK CHIK" noise from the engine when ever i twist the throttle if i close the throttle there is no noise...i am suspecting its coming from the timing chain ??? i am not sure....my friend who was riding as pillion says it sounds like air leaking somewhere...to me it sounds like its coming from timing chain but not sure...is this something to worry about or i leave it like this .

@ Sibun bhai
As said earlier, I recently changed the brake pads with KBX. Now the braking feel is like, initially it is very good. But maximum bite force is less. I mean, if we apply full brake say at 40 kmph, at first good bite is there, but the bite does not increase as we put more pressure to the lever no matter how hard I pull. It is like under full braking, the disk slips between the pads. The force between them remains same.

What cud be the reason..? How can I correct this..?

When my master cylinder piston went bad, even if we press the lever hard, the braking was very poor; this is because pressure was leaking thru the leaky piston.
I think you are also running into the same issue, anyways let others also confirm.

The head mech is saying the "chik chik chik" noise which only comes when i raise the throttle is coming from the piston...he said it will go after sometime and if it doest go away he told me to bring it back...when i repeatedly asked what it was he said piston slap...i said if the pistons are moving sideways wont it damage the bore? he only gave me a blank stare and said your bore wont have any problem...he revved to see if any visible smoke comes from the exhaust...i think he knows whats wrong but he is not very forthcoming...just told me that he wont be opening the whole engine again to fix it and said it will go away by itself mostly....the thing is till he opened the head to fic the oil leak it was all fine...i am really upset first the oil leak now this problem .

Update : the "chik chik" noise seems to come from only the left side not the kicker side of the engine....one local mech is saying
its only "AIR" leaking from silencer and to tighten the 12inch bolt...i told him to show where the "air" is leaking ...he just told me just tighten the silencer a bit it will go away....another mech says the "chik chik" noise is coming from inside the left side crankcase cover...the one the head mech at SC opened recently to clean the metal shavings that fell through the timing chain hole...i didnt even tell the local mech it was opened recently...after they opened this side of the crankcase i completed nearly 200kms with no "chick chik" noise then how come it suddenly started after the head mech opened just the top cover yesterday ?

I googled "piston slap" and all the sources said it will go away after the engine heats up as the pistons expand...so took the bike on the highway and cruised for 25 kms @70-80Km/hr after which the engine was blazing hot but the "chik chik" noise is still present when i twist the throttle .

UPDATE 2 : Bike lost compression today ...the kicker went freely down when i tried to start it ...after kicking it like this 4 or 5 times it started suddenly...new bore has done just 5100kms even the valves are new ..sibunji you here ?