Yes the picture is of rocker arm and camshaft. But our rocker arm is different as it has a roller bearing in place of flat surface as in picture. The roller bearing decreases friction between camshaft and rocker.
From the sound you have posted i think it is not camshaft sound but it is con-rod sound. The sound is heavy banging sound. Do a thing decrease the idle to 700 rpm on hot engine and listen the sound. It should be a heavy banging sound. If it would have been camshaft noise the noise would not have been so heavy.
Can you tell me how much km the sound has been coming.

Regarding the SVC excuse of servicing in other service center, hero has authorized you to service in any service center across the whole of india.

I have heard the sound for more than 10 times that too on headphones and i am sure that it is crankshaft sound.Open the head cover and check camshaft, i am sure it has no problem.

For repairing crankshaft, whole engine has to be opened.
The following needs to be changed:-
1. Crankshaft
2. Bore kit- As the worn crank will be oscillating the piston and would have worn the bore out.
All the packing and consumables like engine oil will be borne by you.
And while opening the engine take care the mechanic doesn't separate the clutch plates as it will require new plates. Instead he must the take the clutch plate out with the clutch center as a single piece and fit in same way.
Clearly it is a manufacturing defect and the sound will be from beginning. But it took 12.5k to notice.Do not leave them as you have 3 years warranty.
Threaten them with consumer case and writing to various automobile magazines.Talk to the MD and show him your bike. Talk to him in a firm but polite voice. Your voice should be such that they will know that you will not leave them if they will not compile to your demands.

I have downloaded the video to my phone and will show it to my mechanic so that he will confirm it. Then tomorrow you can talk to MD. While going to my office i will go half an hour earlier and meet my mechanic on the way and show him the video.
If he confirms then there is no doubt and then you can demand to change crankshaft and if bore has scratches or worn out then bore kit also.

Saw this on the carb jetting thread :



This is exactly what i am experiencing - in the morning i have to kick 5-8 times with throttle open to get the bike to fire up - even after it starts it "chokes" like going into reserve - if i increase the throttle also it only chokes like no petrol - so i keep it at low RPM (below 2000RPM) idling for a min. as the engine becomes hot the problem disappears.

This started happening only after the head mech tuned the carb before that it would start in a couple of kicks and it wont choke like this also.

Sibun ji please reply .

Thanks alot mate i will go to SVC to meet only after you confirms it what the actual problem is.
Yes there is a rough sound from the first service or may be from the begining. they saying that its valve problem and it only needs to adjust it every time. and they saying that the cbz is not a silent bike its a little rough sound. for milage they are saying that 45kmpl is max. and that too get after one year or after run in period.

There is nothing to worry. It is normal. But without giving accelerator just pull choke and kick once. The bike will start. Now push the choke to halfway and wait for 1 minute. As the idle will decrease then close choke and ride away.This is the correct tuning. If you run rich for not using choke, then your bike will suffer from head and valve carbon. This is the correct tuning and use of choke is recommended and it is also mentioned in manual.

Today only i checked he has set the fuel screw to 1.65 turns out - before reading your post i went on a 60km ride and dont know what i was thinking i did exactly what you told me not to in your post - i turned the fuel screw a little rich and set it to 2.15 turn and immediately the pick up improved a lot - the bike was pulling really great then i came home and read your post - again set it to 1.65 turns - do i leave it like this and use the choke to start the bike or i messed up the tune ? or should i take it to the head mech again to re tune sibun ji ?

Hi All,

I own a CBZ Xtreme Bike. I bought this bike in July and have done 1300 kms. Till the first 650kms i have not gone beyond 45kmph as i was directed by the service guy not to go beyond that speed limit.
But towards 1000km i went upto 64kmph on few occassions, as i was not aware of the running-in period.

I wanted to know whether i have stressed my bikes' engine by doing so, if yes then how could i check the damage done.
And kindly let me know how long is this running-in period and what should be the ideal/max speed of the bike during the period.

No need to take it to head mechanic, follow the steps that i have told to IMRAN SYED, and you will get perfect tune. No need of mechanic and learn yourself to do the tuning. Slowly learn everything and i will help you to learn.

Thanks sibun i did read the instruction you gave to imran many times and today i tried it exactly like you written but i ran into some problem ...let me explain what i did :

1) During my trip today after 45 kms i set the RPM to 2000 by turning the idle screw .

2) Then fully rotated the fuel screw clockwise and the engine stalled and stopped.

3)kick started the bike and quickly rotated the fuel screw anti clockwise so the engine doest stall and the RPM started to rise .

4) I kept on turning the fuel screw till the RPM needle reached 2250 RPM after that no matter how many turns i did it didnt rise any further.

5) Finally after turning the fuel screw 4.15 turns anti clockwise i gave up as the RPM needle was just vibrating slightly only and was not moving any more.

Didnt know what to do next so set it to 1.65 turns like the head mech and fiddled with the idle screw to set the RPM to 1400 .

I dont know why RPM needle not rising like other bikes

once you reach highest rpm using fuel screw ,you must rotate clock wise until it reduces to some rpm and with less rpm needle fluctuation, now reduce to 1400 rpm using idle screw & use fuel screw again to get it to 1300 rpm ,finally get it to 1000rpm ,you should see niddle stable with very less fluctuations.if it fluctuates more then it is more lean but ,rich it towards left using fuel screw very slow & steady until you see stable niddle(rpm will be around 1500 approx), now get it to 1000rpm using idle screw .thats it

Its about HUNK & CBZ X @ Sibun ,correct me if Iam wrong

I understand that but if you read carefully what i wrote my RPM needle is not decreasing even after 4 full 360 turns ...it just stays at 2200-2250 RPM vibrating ...no matter how many turns i rotate the fuel screw anti clockwise it neither moves up or down....just stays at 2.2K RPM which is kinda weird no

Its about HUNK & CBZ X @ Sibun ,correct me if Iam wrong

no matter how many turns i rotate the fuel screw anti clockwise it neither moves up or down.

its not weird bro, it has reached max rpm ,even if you rotate anti clock ,it will not move anywhere , you have to rotate clock wise to reduce rpm which is towards lean mixture

Guys i got a new sound in my bike
If i allow my bike to move on its inertia at low speeds with engine on and without clutch & without throttle , it will make some low noise KAT KAT and if i raise the throttle it wont make noise,is this because of loose chain?

its not weird bro, it has reached max rpm ,even if you rotate anti clock ,it will not move anywhere , you have to rotate clock wise to reduce rpm which is towards lean mixture

Kindly pardon me. After all these efforts, confusions and agony, what difference are you expecting in your bike?

There is nothing to worry. It is normal. But without giving accelerator just pull choke and kick once. The bike will start. Now push the choke to halfway and wait for 1 minute. As the idle will decrease then close choke and ride away.This is the correct tuning. If you run rich for not using choke, then your bike will suffer from head and valve carbon. This is the correct tuning and use of choke is recommended and it is also mentioned in manual.