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No they have not changed it. Problem of paint peeling existed before too.Originally posted by psr View Post
I don't think spray painting would help much; after all, these are spray painted in the factory itself. PSR sir would be able to give us a better insight into re-painting/spray painting of the engine bore.Originally posted by girimajiananth View Post
Yes, the bore gasket was protruding since the time of purchase only. Is that a problem? But the engine bore wasn't changed. It is the same. However, they replaced my exhaust valve under warranty.Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
Honda/Hero Honda (Tide water/MAK) are brothers in arms. 10w30 is for mileage and that's the end of it. They differ little; however out of the 2,the Honda 10W30 is undoubtedly the better oil. going by the looks of it, both appear very free flowing/watery in their original avatars itself! Can't put more than 1500 kms max on Honda 10W30. (Currently I am using the same)Originally posted by sooraj_vs View Post
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Not at-all,I just pointed out that because gaskets cannot be placed perfectly as it comes from factory.Originally posted by BloggingWheels View PostYes, the bore gasket was protruding since the time of purchase only. Is that a problem? But the engine bore wasn't changed. It is the same. However, they replaced my exhaust valve under warranty.
With experience one can tell if the engine was opened just by looking how well the gaskets and crankcases are aligned.
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Yes, 1L.Originally posted by girimajiananth View Postyou changed the engine oil yourself i guess .
Did you put only 1L ? what oil were you using earlier ?
No, I got a mech to change the oil. I didn't change it myself because I don't have a Ring Spanner and opening the drain bolt with an open end spanner is pretty hard. I didn't want to damage the bolt as well.
I was using Top1 Evolution earlier. This oil does seem better, but I'm going back to Prakash Motors tomorrow to get the Tappets adjusted. IF the issue if fixed, I'm sure you'll hear me raving about the Mobil1.
They didn't adjust my tappets. :XOriginally posted by Imran Syed View Postme too! yeah my issues are fixed but the noise which i mentioned is still there but got reduced alot, i guess the parts they changed were not actually required
,as the time goes noise will get vanished !!anyways bike is fine now
Originally posted by mastiworld View Post
From the past two days, I'm having a tick tick sound along with the engine noise. It increases with rev and when I press the clutch, it vanishes. Is this the tappet noise (i read online and the sound people explained as is similar to mine) or is there something else. I am also getting the smell of burnt fuel since this problem has occured.
Ill have to get my bike back to service again and guys let me know the severity of the situation I'm in right now. The bike just feels too unhealthy to even ride...at each gear the bike rattles and repels on my revs. Its just hard to drag it above 50kmph as the engine screams and the handlebars vibrate hard.
That definitely sounds like Tappet Noise to me. It just ruins the feel of the Honda mill for me. Get it checked ASAP before it starts annoying you!
The vibrations, well, make sure the oil is fine and try lubing and tightening the chain if required.Hero Honda Hunk 2011, RC'ed, DC'ed, MC'ed! :P
There's fine line between genius and madness. Don't cross it!
Hero Spare Prices Catalog
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Why the tappet issue is so much common?i had never heard of it when i had my previous bike,Just after purchasing HUNK im getting a knowledge of different types of engine issues & i think my tick rick noise is tappets, need to adjust it asapOriginally posted by ashwin.terminator View PostYes, 1L.
No, I got a mech to change the oil. I didn't change it myself because I don't have a Ring Spanner and opening the drain bolt with an open end spanner is pretty hard. I didn't want to damage the bolt as well.
I was using Top1 Evolution earlier. This oil does seem better, but I'm going back to Prakash Motors tomorrow to get the Tappets adjusted. IF the issue if fixed, I'm sure you'll hear me raving about the Mobil1.
They didn't adjust my tappets. :X
That definitely sounds like Tappet Noise to me. It just ruins the feel of the Honda mill for me. Get it checked ASAP before it starts annoying you!
The vibrations, well, make sure the oil is fine and try lubing and tightening the chain if required.
Dude how is your tappet noise,is it comes when the engine is hot & while at low acceleration & vanishes after throttle twist???explain meLast edited by Imran Syed; 09-26-2012, 12:29 AM.
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Xtremes/Hunks are suffering from tappet issue/need for frequent tappet adjustments from the inception, still Hero doesn't care about it !
Tappet issues, less engine life(compared to old generation Honda's), less mileage, poor brakes, vibrations, poor headlights etc..... I think Hero'll have to stop production of Hunk/Xtreme as well along with IMPULSE!
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cool , top 1 evolution is fully synthetic right ? or is it mineral ?Originally posted by ashwin.terminator View PostYes, 1L.
No, I got a mech to change the oil. I didn't change it myself because I don't have a Ring Spanner and opening the drain bolt with an open end spanner is pretty hard. I didn't want to damage the bolt as well.
I was using Top1 Evolution earlier. This oil does seem better, but I'm going back to Prakash Motors tomorrow to get the Tappets adjusted. IF the issue if fixed, I'm sure you'll hear me raving about the Mobil1.
i am using shell semi synthetic 10w40 right now , planning to shift to full synthetic after 3-4k kms . should i add 1L or 1.2L ?
There was some discussion about draining the oil even from the area around the oil filter , replacing the oil filter , and this had to be done only by removing the crank case ( i am a lot confused here ) , later put in a new filter and top up with 1.2L oil .
Or is it ok for me to drain out the old semi synthetic oil and pour 1L of full synthetic oil ? I wil probably use shell full synthetic .
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Yup. Exact same thing. Worst at idling after riding a while. Even while accelerating, it is audible, but very mildly, well atleast for me. :POriginally posted by Imran Syed View PostWhy the tappet issue is so much common?i had never heard of it when i had my previous bike,Just after purchasing HUNK im getting a knowledge of different types of engine issues & i think my tick rick noise is tappets, need to adjust it asap
Dude how is your tappet noise,is it comes when the engine is hot & while at low acceleration & vanishes after throttle twist???explain me
The bikes are still good but not what they used to maybe.Originally posted by SatSon View PostXtremes/Hunks are suffering from tappet issue/need for frequent tappet adjustments from the inception, still Hero doesn't care about it !
Tappet issues, less engine life(compared to old generation Honda's), less mileage, poor brakes, vibrations, poor headlights etc..... I think Hero'll have to stop production of Hunk/Xtreme as well along with IMPULSE!
Yes, Top1 is Fully Synthetic.Originally posted by girimajiananth View Postcool , top 1 evolution is fully synthetic right ? or is it mineral ?
i am using shell semi synthetic 10w40 right now , planning to shift to full synthetic after 3-4k kms . should i add 1L or 1.2L ?
There was some discussion about draining the oil even from the area around the oil filter , replacing the oil filter , and this had to be done only by removing the crank case ( i am a lot confused here ) , later put in a new filter and top up with 1.2L oil .
Or is it ok for me to drain out the old semi synthetic oil and pour 1L of full synthetic oil ? I wil probably use shell full synthetic .
We actually need to add only 900ML, not the whole 1L. But 100ML is ok, no big deal. You don't get oil at 1.2L a pack anyway. :P
Replacing oil filter, yes, you need to remove the crank case for that. Check your owner's manual for detailed procedure. 1.2L maybe after all the oil is drained if you open the crank case. If you drain using the drain bolt, you'll need only 900ML.
Hero Honda Hunk 2011, RC'ed, DC'ed, MC'ed! :P
There's fine line between genius and madness. Don't cross it!
Hero Spare Prices Catalog
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if you want to drain the oil completely you'll have to open the crankcase. But that is not needed.Originally posted by girimajiananth View Posti know that you wont get 1.2L .So is it ok for me to drain oil using the bolt and just add 1 L of full synthetic oil ? even with out draining the old semisynthetic oil ?
my question is , should i drain the old semi synthetic oil before before adding the full synthetic oil ?
You can try to drain to the maximum by slanting the bike both sides keeping the drain hole open.
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ashwin ,yes same issue with my bike also ,, need to fix it up asapOriginally posted by ashwin.terminator View PostYup. Exact same thing. Worst at idling after riding a while. Even while accelerating, it is audible, but very mildly, well atleast for me. :P
The bikes are still good but not what they used to maybe.
Yes, Top1 is Fully Synthetic.
We actually need to add only 900ML, not the whole 1L. But 100ML is ok, no big deal. You don't get oil at 1.2L a pack anyway. :P
Replacing oil filter, yes, you need to remove the crank case for that. Check your owner's manual for detailed procedure. 1.2L maybe after all the oil is drained if you open the crank case. If you drain using the drain bolt, you'll need only 900ML.
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guys need help,
my cbz xtreme is not starting in gear...it only starts in neutral....in gear with clutch pressed ,sometimes a fine kat kat sound is heard ..and bike fails to crank.....
my bike is also taking up 2.5l in reserve ...whereas in manual 1.5l reserve is mentioned.....
from the rear an occasional metal crunching sound is heard during corners and under load ...it is still present after cleaning and lubing the chain
....
any insights to above mentioned problems?
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Originally posted by vickul View Postguys need help,
my cbz xtreme is not starting in gear...it only starts in neutral....in gear with clutch pressed ,sometimes a fine kat kat sound is heard ..and bike fails to crank.....
Go to SVC and ask them to change the clutch switch. shouldn't cost u much.
my bike is also taking up 2.5l in reserve ...whereas in manual 1.5l reserve is mentioned.....
from the rear an occasional metal crunching sound is heard during corners and under load ...it is still present after cleaning and lubing the chain
....
Chec for your chain tension.It might be loose thus giving kat-kat sound in corners.adjust the rear axle bolt for tightening.
any insights to above mentioned problems?
2.5 Llt in reserve is not convincing to me.i dont agree with u.how many kms can u ride after hitting Reserve.For me it never came out to be more than 60-70 km max. Issues come and go,try to understand the reason and solve themsigpic
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i have ridden about 96-100kms in reserve before filling with fuel....not once nor twice, i generally fill rs 200 petrol(2.9 lit). ...after just 25-30 kms it hits reserve ......Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post
2.5 Llt in reserve is not convincing to me.i dont agree with u.how many kms can u ride after hitting Reserve.For me it never came out to be more than 60-70 km max. Issues come and go,try to understand the reason and solve them
so,i guess it is something related to petcock?..
even after chain tightening the sound is present....dunno what may be the reason..
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Originally posted by vickul View Postguys need help,
my cbz xtreme is not starting in gear...it only starts in neutral....in gear with clutch pressed ,sometimes a fine kat kat sound is heard ..and bike fails to crank.....
my bike is also taking up 2.5l in reserve ...whereas in manual 1.5l reserve is mentioned.....
from the rear an occasional metal crunching sound is heard during corners and under load ...it is still present after cleaning and lubing the chain
....
any insights to above mentioned problems?IIRC, Saurabh had been facing this issue before?Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post
2.5 Llt in reserve is not convincing to me.i dont agree with u.how many kms can u ride after hitting Reserve.For me it never came out to be more than 60-70 km max. Issues come and go,try to understand the reason and solve them
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