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Ok so i'l buy this Castrol power 1 racing full synthetic oil for 2 wheelers and an NGK g-power spark plug and try it out. Giving it for servicing in 2 weeks anyways to replace my front mag wheel since its out. I'l do the oil and spark plug after that also any thoughts on the fz-16 handlebar?
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you are in Mumbai. If you have decided to spend Rs 750 on Castrol Power1 Racing, why not try the Motul 300V FL xW40 Fully Synthetic at the same cost? it would be loads better than the Castrol and you can get it in Mumbai. Also, Petronas Sprinta 4T 5000 fully synthetic is available for Rs 330 (check post 145 in Engine Oils thread for places available) and is a complete paisa vasool.Originally posted by adises View Post
About the FZ's handlebar, we are not sure if it fits! opinions can come in later. if it is not very expensive, may be it is worty trying, if it fits!Comment
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k thanks got all the info I need will do all the above and post the results
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I'd add that the sparky need not really be changed unless its worn. Just clean and gap v accurately. 10,000 can only be a very general figure... this will vary a lot with your riding style etc. So unless its worn, you will be wasting $.
And really, the ordinary OEM NGK will do just fine... I don't think you will notice any difference with the G power and other fancy stuff.
If your engine is really dirty, putting P1R might not be the best idea. Consider putting some other oil in there as suggested, and then try P1R...Comment
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Any idea if Petronas is available in 10W30 grade (fully synth)? Is it comparable to P1R/Motul?Originally posted by HydBiker View PostComment
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no 10W30 grade motorcycle engine oil available from Petronas in India.
Spark Plugs do wear out.. unseen to the eye. This is probably the cheapest of the engine parts and one that has to function at its best for power delivery. Why wait till you can see the electrode and/or ground corrode?Comment
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A LOT of things are untangible... but I don't think spark plug wear is. As long as the edges are fairly sharp/defined... I don't think it warrants a change. That has been my experience too - I'v used my sparkies this way, and there has been no decline in performance.
Anyways, its upto the user... I for one believe in not wasting something while it still has a servicible life and the use of which does not result in any damage or loss in performance.
After all, whats wrong with some spark plug conservation?
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i did a little more digging to try and solve the squealing sound and here is something I found on some Ducati fourm :P now my bikes no superbike but I assumed the same principle would apply:
Anyways so what I did was take the bike to a 100 about 5-6 times and applied the brake resonably hard (first time I nearly skidded from my enthusiasm)...and the end results is the squealing did indeed become less..its still there but for a lot less duration.The problem is not the rotor, it's the pads becoming glazed from light brake applications. To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.Comment
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Sounds interesting!!! Wait and see if the squakling noise again comes.Originally posted by adises View Post
But, did you take the pads out and roughned up with a sand paper? If not try this and see.HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor
Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western GhatsComment
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no I haven't tried that..weird part is I replaced the pads even but the noise remains so it confuses me even further..the above thing technically should not apply since the pads are new...who knows maybe its something to do with the drum as hydbiker suggested.Comment
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err.. disc?
brake pads go with disc
brake shoe go with drum
brake pads are always in contact with the disc and a new set has to match the groves on the disc. Pads have soft metal particles in them... if that serves as a clue!Comment
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no no i'm referring to my rear drum brake only the 4 pieces inside whatever they are called? what I meant was logically if the noise if cause by the brake pin rubbing against the rubber pieces then the same principle would apply.
When I braked hard a few times the noise did becomes less and it does happen more when i'm at lower speeds (under 35-40). Now what confuses me is what is the actual cause since I did replace my liner (the 4 pieces in the drum) it couldn't be the problem of glazing.Comment
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Ok need some advice please dont flame me i am serious about this
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I want to throw the front disc out and install ones that are more powerfull
Here are the options i can think off
Option A:
The front disc of RTR spec i found on their site:
Option B:
Keep the front disc but install the RTR FI rear disc.
Option C:
Buy the ZMA disc heard its around Rs7500
.spec:
Which is the best option here or have i missed something.
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You mean you can replace the back drum brake with a disc brake? I assume that would involve changing the wheel. Personally being a new rider I prefer the drum brake over two disc brakes simply because I have braked hard out of instinct many times (when dogs run across the road or rickshaws suddenly decide they need to turn) and the drum brake basically allows me a little time to regain control..i'v seen people slam disc brakes together and it looks bloody dangerous.
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^^Thats ONE of the options. After seeing a guy loose his left eye due to a dog(long time ago) i dont stop or even try to brake i RUN over them.
My pulsar 180 killed 2 dogs .my uni crash guard took care of the third one
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