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  • Originally posted by bikekrazy View Post
    guys m waiting to hear abt this......
    In India, Clip-ons on commuter class (upto 225cc bikes) are mere add-ons and a feature to match competition from sales point of view. These clip-ons will not improve handling drastically.
    Some companies started off with alloys and now it has become a standard, alloys are not real alloys they are cast wheels and are damn heavier than spokes wheels. Spokes wheels are best suited for Indian road conditions. The spoke is in tension all the time and when you ride over a bump they are subjected to compressive forces, the tension in the spokes will balance the compressive force and hence they last long, really long.

    Real alloys are the ones with cocktail of alloying elements that reduce wheel weight drastically and have very high strength to wieght ratio. But Alloys on commuter doesn't have that character they are just a selling feature.
    Same applies to Clip-ons, they are a waste of money if you are commuting from office to home. Most clip-ons are not adjustable, whereas simple piped handle bar can be adjusted to rider's comfort. The adjustable clipons can be adjusted only in certain direction not all.
    Sopkes & Clipons are simple and adequate technologies, no need to introduce something complicated in place of them which are away from needs of the motorcycle.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by giridhar View Post
      Hi everyone
      I am planning to change my engine oil,till now i was using HH oil now i am planning to change to 20w40 grade. should engine flush be done before changing???please help me out
      Drain your old oil while the engine is hot ( run for sometime ) , close drain nut , fill with your new oil . Nothing else needed in between .

      Comment


      • Put a tank pad to avoid scratches on tank,mainly caused from jeans zips. a good one will cost you nearly 900rs.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
          Drain your old oil while the engine is hot ( run for sometime ) , close drain nut , fill with your new oil . Nothing else needed in between .
          +1^^ No flushing needed.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by vipin_s View Post
            In India.......Some companies started off with alloys and now it has become a standard, alloys are not real alloys they are cast wheels and are damn heavier than spokes wheels. Spokes wheels are best suited for Indian road conditions.....Spokes & Clipons are simple and adequate technologies, no need to introduce something complicated in place of them which are away from needs of the motorcycle.
            Cast wheels are simpler to mass manufacture and cost less per unit , while they are in great demand ( fashionable ) so the bike manufacturers actually charge a higher price for alloys than spoke-wheels . You can confirm in their listing for prices for bikes available in both spokes and alloys , you'll see that they charge more for alloy wheel version . So it is a double profit for them -- less to make and more from sale . Moreover in the long run , since bends & breaks are common in alloys and replacement the only solution , they will earn more by selling more spare wheels after selling the bikes too . The bend / broken alloy wheel can be bought back for throw-away price from the biker and re-cast into a new one , simple process ... SO nowadays they are simply refusing to give you the spoke wheel version of a bike ( which has both versions ) in urban areas . In rural areas they don't dare do this , since they know very well that the cast wheel won't outlive the bike's warranty even . Having ridden both for sometime , now I simply hate cast wheels on potholes and speed-breakers .
            Last edited by Pinaki; 06-25-2011, 10:35 PM.

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            • Originally posted by vipin_s View Post
              , alloys are not real alloys they are cast wheels and are damn heavier than spokes wheels. Spokes wheels are best suited for Indian road conditions. The spoke is in tension all the time and when you ride over a bump they are subjected to compressive forces, the tension in the spokes will balance the compressive force and hence they last long, really long.

              Real alloys are the ones with cocktail of alloying elements that reduce wheel weight drastically and have very high strength to wieght ratio. But Alloys on commuter doesn't have that character they are just a selling feature.
              Same applies to Clip-ons, they are a waste of money if you are commuting from office to home. Most clip-ons are not adjustable, whereas simple piped handle bar can be adjusted to rider's comfort. The adjustable clipons can be adjusted only in certain direction not all.
              Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
              Cast wheels are simpler to mass manufacture and cost less per unit , while they are in great demand ( fashionable ) so the bike manufacturers actually charge a higher price for alloys than spoke-wheels . You can confirm in their listing for prices for bikes available in both spokes and alloys , you'll see that they charge more for alloy wheel version . So it is a double profit for them -- less to make and more from sale . Moreover in the long run , since bends & breaks are common in alloys and replacement the only solution , they will earn more by selling more spare wheels after selling the bikes too . The bend / broken alloy wheel can be bought back for throw-away price from the biker and re-cast into a new one , simple process ... SO nowadays they are simply refusing to give you the spoke wheel version of a bike ( which has both versions ) in urban areas . In rural areas they don't dare do this , since they know very well that the cast wheel won't outlive the bike's warranty even . Having ridden both for sometime , now I simply hate cast wheels on potholes and speed-breakers .
              WOW once again great posts, which is very educative...As someone who had been on a bike since 1970 I see the truth,wisdom and practicality in these lines...Imagine getting a bent alloy wheel and havig no replacement or at a prohibitive cost...a spoked wheel never lets you down like that...imagine having a slide on tarmac and seeing one side of clipon getting damaged..with a pipe handle bar you get a bend..so with a bent handle somehow you can reach home, but with a broken clipon... you are stranded even though bike may be ok otherwise.
              When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                Drain your old oil while the engine is hot ( run for sometime ) , close drain nut , fill with your new oil . Nothing else needed in between .

                Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                +1^^ No flushing needed.
                Thanks for helping me out
                Biker @ heart

                Comment


                • Originally posted by psr View Post
                  .....imagine having a slide on tarmac and seeing one side of clipon getting damaged..with a pipe handle bar you get a bend..so with a bent handle somehow you can reach home, but with a broken clipon... you are stranded even though bike may be ok otherwise.
                  Psr , I have actually seen this happen ... with disastrous effect . A young boy (student of Jadavpur university here as I later found out) got wedged between two opposing moving vehicles while trying to slip the gap at great speed ( thats what I heard later ).... I was just nearing my home alley .. there was this crowd.. they had dragged the boy and bike to the roadside .. his clipons handlebar had broken .. I saw it was quite thin aluminium like tube material only .. and the break had very jagged edges .. it had penetrated his jeans and leg . As nobody else was doing anything and it was just a min from my home I patched up the boy best I could from my first-aid box ( I make up my own first-aid kit ) .. took him and his bike to my place . He called up a relative then who took him to hospital for stitches . His bike was at my place for three days after which his friend arrives with a mechanic and a spare tube handle , somehow fixes it in place of the broken clip-on and drove the bike away behind their own bike like that . Most other things on the bike was intact other than the broken handle & led guard , fairing etc . I still have faint disturbing images of that jagged blooded broken handle part in my mind . So i'm prejudiced against these handles although I can't stop admiring the glamorous looks and finish of the one on the ZMR too .
                  Last edited by Pinaki; 06-26-2011, 02:20 AM.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                    Drain your old oil while the engine is hot ( run for sometime ) , close drain nut , fill with your new oil . Nothing else needed in between .
                    Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                    +1^^ No flushing needed.
                    So when exactly is flushing required?
                    First think you are special then work towards proving it.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by anush View Post
                      So when exactly is flushing required?
                      Engine / Engine Oil Flushing is not really required unless you probably want to clean the internals of an old engine (especially for sludge) without opening it up. For switching between oils it isn't really needed. In fact, it might not be that a good thing to do. Here are my reasons:

                      1) Engine oils are compatible with each other. Everything is lubricating material although with different properties. Every oil comes with standard additives & stabilizers that make sure different types of oils, when mixed, are compatible with each other and there won't be any odd reaction or sort of.

                      2) Even when you drain the engine oil or flush the engine oil, there would be 200 to 400 ml of engine oil or engine oil + flushing agent left in the engine that will not come out of the engine unless you open it up. When you add new engine oil, it mixes with the existing oil in the engine.

                      Now, I'd better let the new fully synthetic engine oil mix with the burnt mineral oil than letting it mix with a flushing agent.

                      FYI - most bikes 150cc & above have 1.2 liter as engine oil capacity but only 1L as required refill. 200 ml stays in different compartments in the engine that are purpose built to store minute quantities of engine oil for lubrication during cold start - like at the timing chain tensioner, the rocker roller arms, the clutch case that I know of.

                      The Karizma's Engine oil capacity is 1.3L and refill is 900ml. The P200/220 won't be very different with oil remaining not just in the engine but also in the radiator. Pls check the manuals for correct details.

                      3) Various parts in the engine need the carbon deposits on them to be there for good functioning. Like the Valve heads need the carbon deposits for better lubrication. Various oil seals and gaps in the gaskets/packing have carbon deposits in them (in engines that have seen some life). Flushing agents clean all that away and that can cause problems.

                      4) Every engine oil has detergents whose purpose is to clean the engine internals. In fact, the top three functions of an engine oil are 1) Lubrication, 2) temperature control, 3) cleaning the internals. A good engine oil does its cleaning job well. Maintaining the engine with timely oil change with good oil is good enough to maintain the engine well.

                      Source:xBhp


                      Already discussed,So IMO i wont recommend flushing for our bikes.

                      Comment


                      • New Cbz Broshere!

                        hey yesturday i visited the SVC to change my engine oil.
                        Saw the New CBZ 2011 Broshere on good life counter.
                        when i ask him to take it She refused as they dont have more to check the new cbz details if any custumer ask them.
                        so i clicked some pics of that broshere just to share with with you guys!
                        In b/w m also seeing some touch screen divice at every hero honda dealor which have got all the information abt any model HH manufacture at just a click away!
                        .............................................
                        Hero Honda CBZ X-Treme....2011
                        .................................................. ...............

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                          3) Various parts in the engine need the carbon deposits on them to be there for good functioning. Like the Valve heads need the carbon deposits for better lubrication.
                          No...... carbon actually inhibits flow of oil through gaps..but slight carbon deposits on piston,valve and oil seals help seal it from leakages...if you have more deposits then it will become bad for the engine..CARBON IN HOT AREAS like valve seat, piston top, are known to cause hot spots and cause pre-ignition.
                          Various oil seals and gaps in the gaskets/packing have carbon deposits in them (in engines that have seen some life). Flushing agents clean all that away and that can cause problems.
                          This is true.

                          4) Every engine oil has detergents whose purpose is to clean the engine internals. In fact, the top three functions of an engine oil are 1) Lubrication, 2) temperature control, 3) cleaning the internals. A good engine oil does its cleaning job well. Maintaining the engine with timely oil change with good oil is good enough to maintain the engine well.

                          Source:xBhp


                          Already discussed,So IMO i wont recommend flushing for our bikes.
                          replies in bold
                          When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                          Comment


                          • can we fit grs and rear disc in old cbz extreme

                            guys plz help me regarding
                            can we fit grs and rear disc in old cbz extreme?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by shekhar_252778 View Post
                              guys plz help me regarding
                              can we fit grs and rear disc in old cbz extreme?
                              GRS can be fitted, but check out if it fouls with some part like the bikini fairing..... Rear Disc brake may be possible, but a factory fitted one is the best, w.r.t important function like brakes mods may not give desired result/s. Also find out the total cost it will cost too much...

                              Comment


                              • How's the Amaron's maintenance free battery ?

                                I'm planning to change my CBZ Extreme's battery next weekend and need to choose between Exide and Amaron .

                                Pls let me know if u've used amaron on ur bike - Model number, price etc., I've seen on amaron's website that 2.5 Amp is the recommended model, would there be any issues if we go for a higher amp model ?

                                How's the new maintenance free battery from exide ? Do maintenance fee batteries need to be topped up with water just like the regular batteries ?

                                Thanks.
                                guys..if you ever need blood or want to donate blood, please refer to this site :

                                http://www.friendstosupport.org/index.aspx

                                Do you ever notice that when you're driving, anyone going slower than you is an idiot and everyone driving faster than you is a maniac ?

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