Hi,



I concur with the Sd1 views,Its a very good practice and you should continue. Although I recommend you to keep it for 2-2.5Min as opposed to 1min as discussed in other threads the Engine Oil takes about 2 odd min to reach the heads and hence recommended to wait for 2-2.5 min.

Also about the kick start,Its also a very very good practice and will not strain the battery on a cold start.

I do both myself and recommend it !

Regards.

Update: After spending too much time, had to sell activa it was stalling like 4-5 times in traffic and honda svc were not able to solve things.

Bought yamaha ray zr (disc variant )

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Man, did you change the battery in your Activa. I had the same stalling issue due to weak battery. It fixed after changing to a new one.

I have a few questions I wanted to ask, if anyone has any views on them please feel free to answer.
Firstly, the engine, an additional foot rest and side stand are all on the left side, does that make the scooter left side heavy and affect balance of the scooter? If so is there any way to balance the scooter properly, like adding a right side foot rest(seeing they contain metal parts)?
Secondly, about mods, can I add a windshield? There isn't exactly any place to attach it... What about extra led lights on the front? Does adding the 'inner box' or 'glove box' on the scooter hurt your knees?
Thirdly, just out of curiosity, is there any performance mods?
edit:Its a Honda Activa 4g BTW.
Thanks in advance

This isn't normal. You need to get the charging system checked to ensure the battery is being charged. One of the two components that could go bad are the stator coil and the regulator+rectifier unit.
And remember if you let a good battery run flat a few times, it will eventually kill the battery (i.e. not hold charge as designed to).. a failure of one of these parts(stator or rr unit) will cause the battery to go flat. So you need to find the root cause rather than simply swapping batteries. And I hope the battery you are using is of the correct rating.. if it's an old model (i.e. 102cc first gen) then the battery should be a 12V 5Ah .. the latter models started coming with a lower capacity battery.

Now how does one check the charging system:
1. A Good battery should read at-least 12.7 V approx (i.e. just the battery without any connections)
2. Start the scoot and at idle measure the voltage. It should go up to around 13 V
3. Next hold the throttle half way and measure voltage, The voltage should increase by around 1~1.5V (i.e. should now be 14-14.5V)

If you don't see the voltages increasing then it could be a faulty rr unit or stator coil. also note that too much increase in voltages(say it shoots up to 16V) also indicates a fault. An easier way to rule out a faulty component is by swapping it with a known good one where ever possible.

I've had the RR unit go bad on my 2007 Dio (after 8.5 yrs) and I confirmed it by swapping it from another Activa at my local mechanic. The RR unit will cost around Rs.550 and is easy to replace, the stator coil might require more labor.

First of all my regards Sid ji.
Sorry I'm quoting an old post but couldn't find anything more perfect to explain my problem.
As you explain in your post my battery's voltage is shooting up to around 16 volts.(on idle itself)
My bike's battery isn't supporting my button start. Showing 13.7 v but on pressing start, goes down to 2/4 v.
I'm on a service battery which I procured after requesting the Amaron service guy.

Also please take into consideration that I won't be able to perform 'the rr unit swap' & simply check.
Will shift to pm later to explain further

Hi guys... i have a 2016 Aviator done about 6500kms. This is kind of a silly question but has anyone whos ridden a dio or aviator noticed that whistling noise when you let go of the throttle? Yeah my scooter doesnt make that noise at all. My question is...how the hell can i get that whistling noise???

What could be the issue that needs to be looked into ? What part(s)/section(s) do we need to tell the service center to inspect ? Because we already told them about the wobbling issue and they couldn't find anything wrong.

EDIT: We are thinking about changing the front tire to see if that could be the issue, but I can see it has enough amount of tread to run quite a few thousand kms more, It's a MRF Zapper.

Front wobbling : Steering racers, forks, rims/tyres. In your case perhaps faulty fork Earles Fork that is. A photo of the same could tell us more ;-)

Ruled out forks since we asked them to inspect and fix but all fine, Even got a local mechanic to look at the problem but no luck. Can't understand why it's an intermittent issue though, and if rims/tyres were damaged then the problem would be persistent I believe ? Still gonna try changing the tyres as a last resort.

During the wobble, you mean the handlebar goes left-right-left-right slightly (or) does the front end go up-down-up-down like something stuck to the wheel ? Add bad wheel bearings to the list - did your mechanic check them?