Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Mine is old Suzuki Fiero. Bought the bike just when it was launched. Have a sentimental value as it is my first bike, which I bought with a lot of difficulty.
It has run only 45000 kms in the last 15 years (the speedo was not working for some time).

History of the bike:

The bike was mostly maintenance free. It is stock. Added extra coil and changed bulb to 100/90 around 5 years back. The CDI gave away a couple of years back, replaced CDI along with the coil (mechanic sourced it from commercial street). Replaced clutch plate once.

The fuel tank became leaky as the packers and movers guys placed the washing machine on top of the bike. I could not source the tank in black colour. With the help of a friend in TVS, sourced all the plastic parts along with the fuel tank, dismanted the entire bike and painted it in black again. Spent close to 18000 then on a bike with a resale value, may be, close to that.

Just got the bike from service and it is running as good as new. The battery is weak, going to replace it with Exide, other than that it is in top condition.

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

I got the bike serviced last weekend.
Tappet and cam timing were set. It didn't make any difference to the smoothness or power.
The fork T was installed, but the wobbling from front suspension still persists.

Now comes the shocker. I had used the bike for 3.5K kms. on TV Tru4 10w30 semi synthetic oil. The drained out quantity was hardly 100ml.
There is wet soot inside the silencer.

After discussing with [MENTION=13389]gixxer_junkie_m[/MENTION], I did the palm test and found a little soot on my palm as well. The bike gives out very hot air from the silencer even in rainy weather.
Also gives out some pale whitish smoke.

Mechanic is dead sure the engine has reached end of life.
Ever since my Uncle fell off recently, my Mom has been asking me to replace this bike with a scooter (2nd one in my family after the recent Ray purchase).

I am between projects and might travel soon.
I'm waiting till the travel situation is known.

Mind says sell, heart says rebuild!

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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Saravajit

10w30 that too for 3.7k kms is the culprit. Go for re bore with usha piston & I am sure it will be as good as new.

Any mineral or semi synthetic oil should be changed at 2k kms. I make sure even if I don't service bike at least I get oil changed at 2 to 2.5k.

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Seems like your engine has finished its bore. Look at the symptoms -
-Tappet and cam setting was carried out and there was no change in performance.
-Wet soot inside exhaust.
-White smoke.

Best to get 0.25 piston and match/rebore or put new bore cylinder kit.
Bike will be like new.
OR you could opt for 180!


Sad to hear about front fork issue.
You could carry out fork alignment/truing at local machinist.
With the new T, the process will be more precise.
Fork oil levels are fine? Add 165ml to each leg. 165 I think is mentioned in the manual. Adding more will make the travel stiffer with more feedback.
Castrol, Endurance or TVS fork oil can be used.
Or maybe wheel rims need truing? Or wheel hub bearings are blown?
All these can cause wobble.


Abhi is right - best to change oil before 2500 kms. Even I do. For peace of mind.

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

[MENTION=10011]abhilash[/MENTION]abhi, pr8r, gixxer_junkie_m:
Thanks a lot guys.

[MENTION=23950]NANOtechnology[/MENTION]: I have a doubt about the rear side panels. I've noticed that they are not bolted on, but are sitting with the help of the grooves that go into the front side panels (the ones under the tank). The front side panels are fixed with nuts and a plastic bolt with a rubber washer. So the front plastic clips of the rear panel goes into the gaps on the side panels and stay firm, unless they are broken.
There is a metal bolt on the top part (See Pic 2).
On looking inside, there seems to be 2 plastic bolts in the centre part, but they are very far away from the body and nothing to fix into. I found it to be a bit funny.
On the rear part, they sit very close to the number plate and rest on the tail lamp. The gap is less than half an inch and the number plate always hits the bottom of the rear panel while going through speed breakers. Especially the right side is closer, since the mudguard is bent towards the right (See Pic 1).
There were some small rubbers at the edges to avoid direct contact with the tail lamp, but they have fallen off (See Pic 3).
The best I can do for now is to fix some double sided tape around the contact area with the tail lamp.
But, I'd like you to check the rear panel structure on your bike and let me know, especially the plastic bolts on the centre, and the rear area near the tail lamp. You would need to peep in through the back of the tail lamp to see the centre bolts!
I'm sending some pics of the front and rear part of the panels.

@All: About the fork,
The wobble comes from near the handle. Gives out a noise when removing from main stand, or going over potholes as though something is loose. But the suspension itself works well (proper springing on speed breakers) as the inner rods are relatively new.
Forks are true, already checked on Saturday.
I can only replace the cone set again and adjust the stem nut.
There is only the handle T left which hasn't been replaced yet, but it's unlikely to be the source of the problem.

Coming back to the engine. Yes, I think wrong maintenance during initial years (I used to service at 5-6K) and other problems like wrong oil grade, ignoring tuning, etc. have ended it's life prematurely.
I will check the oil level at 500kms. and top up till the next service.

After discussing with Mom (she loves the bike too), I have decided to restore.
It will take some time to gather money, but I want it to be like new. Leave nothing unaddressed.
If I am spending time and money, I would like the old smoothness and power back.

I have been discussing with Abhi and Anand, and have come up with the following:
1. New bore kit - around 2.5K
2. New head parts (rocker arms, valves) - 500
3. Gaskets, seals - 500
4. Labor - 1500

5. Grinding noise in 2nd gear
Not sure if the gear is available separately. If not, I will have to change the entire gearbox. If anyone can find out the cost, it helps a lot!

6. Conn rod/crank: Not sure what my mechanic means, but he calls it 'biggin'. It looks like a long rod with a circular portion at the end.
He was initially doubting that only the bearing needs replacement, but later felt that the bore is gone, based on the oil level and wet soot in silencer.
Does this need reset at lathe, or replacement?
What would the cost difference be?

7. Camshaft assembly change?

8. Any others, like head work in lathe?

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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

@ sarvajit

I have an even worse problem with the rear panels.
What I've done is, got rid of the 4 bolts, there are 2 on the top as well, and tied em with a copper wire through the hole, i have a lot of 18 gauge enameled copper wire with me.
my bolt holder's plastic is either cracked or broken so wire is the only resort i have. Not a certain fix but does the job.
Its a cheaper solution to fix a simple problem, apart from the new panels being unavailable, they are very expensive.

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

I could see only 2 bolts on each side, other than the plastic clamps.
There must be 2 more, as you're saying.
I can understand the clamps breaking, but
WHY are all 4 metal bolts gone in your bike?

And what are those 2 plastic long bolts in the centre for?

Panels are available here in black, or can be ordered.
There are some after market sitea too, like www.safexbikes.com costing 750 each side.
Guess you're not a student anymore and you can afford them.
Hope you get new panels and get rid of the wire mess soon.

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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

I checked at the SVC regarding the engine spares. The good news is that almost all are easily available, and not at all exorbitantly priced.
In fact, (contrary to common perception) they are less expensive to buy compared to other parts.

Listing down the approx. prices as follows:
1. Bore kit: 2500
2. Valves: 500
3. Rocker arms: 400
3. Camshaft: 850
4. Gaskets and seals: 500
5. 2nd gear: 350
6. Engine + gearshaft ball bearings: 1200
7. Lathe work (crank reset): 1000
8. Mechanic labor: 1500

2nd gear may not be available readily but can be ordered.
Same goes for the gearshaft.
Not sure if it needs to be replaced though.
[MENTION=13389]gixxer_junkie_m[/MENTION], prd8r: Kindly advice on the same.

Also got a pic of the tool kit since someone was saying they lost theirs.
I lost most of the items too!

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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx


I feel you might as well replace the gearshaft too. As again and again you won't be opening the engine bottom. Though I have not done this before.

That list looks good. Have you started the work or still sourcing parts?

Looking forward to Work In Progress pictures. Almost like a mini restoration.

So keeping it 150 or bumping up to 180?

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Makes sense. The 2nd gear, and gearshaft needs to be ordered by TVS. Rest all parts are available.
I'm little confused after getting getting contradicting opinions like:
1. Old mech says: Only bore kit replacement (with head parts) is enough. No bearings will wear out for Fiero
2. New mech says: Only engine bearings can be replaced, rest not needed
3. [MENTION=13389]gixxer_junkie_m[/MENTION] says: Gearshaft and crank bearings may not need replacement. Engine bearings is a must though.
4. [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] says: Replace gearshaft, shifter, bearings to be on safe side.

I guess I will take a decision based on the price/availability of the gearshaft!

I will surely post pics and a detailed explanation once the work starts.
I'm keeping it pending for some time.
Attempting 180 conversion is risky considering the level of mechanics' expertise here.

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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

I'd say if you are opening the bottom end then have all the seals, gaskets and bearings replaced for a peace of mind (make sure to use the right sized bearings)
Get new valve springs also with the valves (not sure if its sold as a kit)
How about the clutch plates ? Replacing them ? If they've done more than 30k km (and you've probably never replaced the springs), then better to replace the plates and the springs also.
And use a little bit of gasket sealant along with the gaskets when you put the engine back together.
Keep the original bore with you, it can be rebored and used in future.

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Sure, will order them all. Engine, crankshaft and gearshaft bearings!
Sure, will check!
The 200 buck clutch plates don't last that long. Max 15K kms. Last time, I changed the metal and pressure plates with springs too.
I was already thinking I will change it again this time.
Sure, any particular brand...like Anabond?
Sure!

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Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Wishing @ Velociraptor13. A Very Happy Birthday and Many More Happy Returns of The DAY.

Re: Fiero/FieroF2/FieroFx

Anabond, threebond, loctite..
Anabond and threebond available at almost any local spares shop, and is used by most mechanics. I've used them in the past on my RX and they do a great job at sealing off the joints.
There is a big spares shop near the yousufguda check post, opposite the BP petrol bunk. Not very discount friendly, but he seems to have most spares that may not be available at smaller shops.

which is the ready to fit (retro fit) alloy wheels (both front disc & rear) for TVS fiero F2

Please provide me details of any OEM or aftermarket alloy wheels for TVS feiro f2.