Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

650 at 2.4L ex. What are the odds of the 650 engine in an H at sub 2.5L pricing? They probably will discontinue the ls410 then.

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Pardon my cynicism but how is this relevant to an ownership thread?

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Welcome to the boards, Ajith. The red herring listed by you is absolutely not necessary at least on a new motorcycle, unless we have trouble. So, as long as the PDI is done to satisfaction and everything's where it's supposed to be you're absolutely fine. The routing of the cables and hoses are done pretty much neatly with the current BS IVs.

Secondly with respect to modifications.

1. No, it won't. It's very much useful. Make sure all the bolts of the guard are torqued enough and that's all there is to it. As long as they aren't loose, they're a neat fit saree guard.
2. Indicator plastics are hard, they look thin, but once you open the lens, it's a robust thick unit. You can get aftermarket leds with LED compatible flasher. Any bulb spec flasher would render a LED flasher useless. The only gripe here would be they aren't flexible, they're a sturdy unit.
3. The bearings that come with the bike are TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS. Both lower and upper bearings are tapered roller bearings for the T stem.
4. Yes, they are a direct fit, 345 per guard, right side. Easy to install, hardly a five min job. Remove the two allen key bolt of the rear brake cylinder and torque in with the guard. Done!
5. I use the Avenger mirror, very effective.
6. You can use handlebar risers if you feel the reach is a pain point to your shoulders.
7. Barkbusters are a good choice, some have even fixed the Duke's. The former is expensive,the latter is pretty much a jugaad.

Ride safe! Hope you've invested in proper set of gears.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

I have them in my Thunderbird 500 since a couple of years. They are very useful.

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Much thanks for the service Manuals.

I use Duke 390 mirrors. They do the job pretty good and look good too IMVHO.

Continental Heel plate definitely go for it.

Handle bar you can check out the off-road one which RE provides. A bit costly but no harm in checking them out. You will have to buy bar ends too or make a spacer of sorts on lathe if you wish to fit the stock handle bars.

Some riders have used TB X's handlebar too.

Go for any decent knuckle guards. 10k for a little bit of plastic and aluminum seems too much ( Barkbusters )

If you wish to get LED indicators you will have to go for LED flashers too. Don't cut or splice any wires or warranty will get void. The stock ones are good. Have them on for 30k km now.

If you have a need keep the saree guard else you can get rid of it. The H looks much cleaner without it.

Also check out VJ's post on TeamBHP here :

Royal Enfield Himalayan

Hello Fellow riders!
I am feeling severe pain in my left arm near shoulder when I ride my NEW REH ABS from intial Kms only. Has anyone faced similar issue aswell?

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

It's been close to 7.5 months I've got my RE Himalayan and the journey has been a mixed bag. Fast forward to today, the one area that gets neglected the most on the Himalayan BS4 is the EVAP Canister.

But first off, what is an EVAP Canister on a vehicle and what role does it play?

EVAP or EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM is nothing but a charcoal canister that is present in your vehicle that ensures it collects the fumes/vapor formed inside your fuel tank routed to this canister. This canister then re-route these fumes/vapors to the intake manifold via a purge control valve.

Basically what this system does is, instead of letting the fuel vapor going to atmosphere, this traps the vapors/fumes and then re-circulates them to the engine via the intake manifold to be burnt. This way, the atmoshphere stays clean, which makes the regulators and green-goers happy.

With basics out of the way. Why now! What gives! Well, for RE Himalayan it gives! ADHD (Acceleration Deficient Hiccup Disorder)

REH BSIVs has been notorious to stall over time during riding without a clue to the rider. Owners have scratched their heads as to why, when everything works perfectly fine. But only recently did I as an owner, digging a bit deep came to know about a startling fact. Kinks! Kinks? Where and how? Will answer them in the coming pictorial!

Story time: Owning the REH for close to seven months now, the experience has been sort of a roller coaster ride. Good bits, boring bits and pain in the posterior bits, well as I said earlier, it's a mixed bag of emotions. The bike for the most part is washed every other weekend and made sure she's off of crud, as Ooty is where I live and certain roads that I loiter around are pretty nasty, and this crud cakes up extremely well on the bash plate.

With cleaning and washing mostly done by myself, my eyes spotted something interesting when I was scrubbing the bash plate today. I saw a black box, with tubes crisscrossing them. Voila! I found something. Now, I was just hunkering there and fiddling there for a few mins checking out the tubes coming to and fro and observing how they're routed.

Brings my phone, opens the Service Manual, found that the flight data recorder was nothing but a EVAP CANISTER.

Now comes the sigh part. Why a setup at such a non-discerning place? Me thinks, it's probably that the flight data recorder must be kept out of hand of use mere mortals, well RE can probably answer that. Hehe.

But the first thought that came to my mind was. Gosh, I've been through muck, crud and I know the amount of crud that was just on the bash plate outer that was caked from my ride a while back and the plate took a good amount of time to make sure it was spic and span.

I immediately knew this plate had to come down in order to be cleaned thoroughly and there it was DOWN AND UNDER.


How to remove the bash plate.
===================

The bash plate is held in place by four 10 mm hex bolts. The front two bolts and the left side bolts are fairly easy to remove. The bolts on the right side is where your patience and dexterity comes into play as the exhaust pipe almost leaves no space covering the entire surface. Fiddle with it, you'll get them out. The plate was crud laden on the innards. The image you see was with basic crud removed with kerosene liberally applied to rinse. The brushing then starts.



Turning the plate under, I found four allen keys that hold the "so called" holders that hold the plumbing in place. These are 4mm Allen screws and it's pretty straight forward removing them. Here is a picture of the plate down under. Removing them, allows the the entire plumbing to be removed and the bashplate is all that is left, cleaning in process.



The cleaning was done in two steps. First the bash plate was cleaned, then the plumbing was taken to the sink and then sprayed with kerosene and brushed liberally. Make sure no kerosene enters those transfer pipes. I will explain what those two pipes are in the coming picture set in the coming pictures. 60 mins later, after a thorough clean and assembly done, it was back to this.



Just when you thought you'd assemble everything back -- something pops up, I knew how cruddy this under side portion of the canister was. The plate was hard caked and the stains were very tough to get it out. The underside of the canister and the bash plate partially clean. The other thing I found out is, the canister is held in place by a rubber band. There is no protective layer underneath the canister, like a rubber base or like a seat like we have in car battery compartments for the battery to sit upon or a support to make sure it doesn't move forth. Unfortunately, it just sits on the bash plate. Too crudely Himalayan-ish for my liking. I thought why not create one. Here's how it's underneath the plate. No protection whatsoever, it's held in place by a cheap rubber band. Notice the mark made by the canister on the plate, a neat black line. This is due to the mud deposits below the canister rubbing against each other due to vehicle vibration.






Okay so now what. From hereon it was pretty simple. Took a piece of insulating foam, made sure it was folded four ways to make sure it was thick enough to make a cushion underneath the canister box, cut the foam to the exact size of the canister, used Flex Kwik to stick the foam on the bash plate. And I'm done! Pre-works..



Here's how it looked after everything was put in place with the foam layer underneath and a final clean with kerosene again on the nook and cranny before installation. It was so crud settled, even after 1 hour and almost 300 ML of kerosene later, it still had crud residue which simply doesn't budge.







Assembly to the Vehicle
=================
Assembly reckoning. I was wise enough to clean the bash plate and the EVAP canister. But dumb enough to forget the fact that the portion behind the bash plate of the engine seldom gets cleaned no matter how much pressure washing is done, it just doesn't cut it. So, a little spray of kerosene there and brushing solved the issue.. Pre-clean...



Now that everything was cleaned up to satisfaction, it was finally time to bolt er up or was it! No. Another assembly reckoning. The tubes themselves. Leaving them to dry before the final install.



Why All This Mess
============
The stock routing of the tube isn't that great. On the left side of the bike, below the engine you can see a tube barely running towards the intake of the rear of the bash plate.

This was poorly routed in my opinion, though no kinks were observed, the routing is so cable-tied everywhere, it's easy for the tubes to be squeezed and this CAN "choke" the engine, this is why the motorcycle stalls at times even when everything seems perfect. This is the part from where the fumes/vapor go to the intake manifold

There are two tubes from the fuel tank, one is the normal drain tube and the other is the fuel tank to canister tube. This tube is connected to the EVAP PURGE VALVE on the bash plate and is routed on the left side of the motorcycle, near the radiator downtube. Any kinks or if this line is choked the bike would stutter at times during startup or immediately after startup or after a ride, and sometimes even stall the engine when riding. This is due to the pressure build up and not being vented right. I've grabbed a picture of the routing for ease of undestanding.



Now the tough part out of the way. It was finally time for installation. Notice that I've now routed the tube from the right (left side of the vehicle) (grey one), viathe canister holding band as opposed where it would normally be routed outside the band from factory making it easy for it to kink by pushing or pulling the tube. One might ask, won't it choke the tube by routing it my way. Absolutely it doesn't! It has more than enough space for two of my fingers to enter in that band space and the tubes have excellent radial and axial play. Totally kink and flex friendly.



Installation is the same as removal process. Make sure the 10 mm bolts are torqued all the way. The right side bolts will take a little dexterity and fiddling to seat them as it being a tight space, but you can.

Conclusion!
First off thanks for reading the post. The intention of this post is to make aware Himalayan owners that such a small neglected part can throw temper tantrums when you least expect. Washing the bike alone won't suffice. It's advisable to clean the EVAP Canister, the bashplate every four to six months and check the tubes for any kinks and make sure the tubes aren't stuck or kinked at a sharp point, and that's all there is to make sure your REH rides without ADHD.

Ride safe!


Cheers!
VJ

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Thank you for the gesture. Happy to be here.

Not sure what you meant by red herring but i wonder if you were referring to the steering head bearing. Glad to know they have already switched to tapered units. I only need to monitor for appropriate tightness then.

Thank you for all the other tips and the excellent write-up on the EVAP canister clean up. You are thorough!

I will stay with the stock indicators for now. Will upgrade to LED if it breaks or blows a bulb.

Yup! That is sorted.

Cheers! Chrome avenger mirrors are what i am planning as well. Might also look at the RTR mirrors. Will report back.

Most welcome!

Have a 2013 Duke. While i like that the mirrors are solid units unlikely to vibrate, i personally find them too narrow at the business end. My duke is running RTR mirrors. Avenger mirrors was the other option but the mounting point is a bit too far inboard for them. I will just take the mirrors off it and try them on the REH to see if it works. As i noted above, i will report back on this.

Thank you for the other tips. Bars are likely going to be the TBX unit because the black feels understated, which is how i like it. I am not sure whether i have sufficient slack in the cables. This will probably be among the first projects.

Thank you for the link to the EVAP clean post. Looks like Vijay has kindly reposted it on here.

Taking delivery of the motorcycle tomorrow. I am generally not a camera happy person. But i will strive to get at least one reasonable pic for the folks on here so i dont break the tradition.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Sounds very unusual my friend. I havent experienced this nor have any of the people who i have talked to. Have someone else you completely trust try the bike out to see if there is something off with the bike. Are you able to take your hands off the bars when it is coasting? If it tends to pull in any direction, you are likely constantly applying force to keep the bike straight and that can cause strain. Get the bike looked over if that is the case.

That said it might just be the ergonomics. See if rotating the bars towards you and changing the lever positions to keep your wrist straighter helps.

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Surprisingly the duke mirrors work great on Himalayan. Far better view than the stock ones. You can also try the new 390's mirrors. They are very wide. You can first try your old dukes mirrors and check if they serve the purpose.

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Thank you B7ACKTHORN for all yout posts , especially the last one , in order to " optimize" the him' for the coming big ride around black sea .
And understanding something new is always useful ..
Will talk to my mechanics for the 5000 h service .

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Tedha hai par mera hai!

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Hey Ravish, did you get the handle bar position sorted? I find the bars lack sufficient pullback forcing the elbows up in a dirt tracker style. If you are not used to it you can have pain in the small muscle on the outside of the shoulder which lifts the upper arm up. Referring to the muscle that bulges and flexes when you do a chicken flap move with your elbow. Perhaps all you need is a handlebar change.

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Took some time out today to fix some glaring problems and look over the bike carefully.

First checked the oil level and was stumped to see it empty. Then I remembered that oil level is not to be checked on the side stand. On the main stand and it looks like oil level is higher than case marking. Not sure whether this is too much or not.
Bar position was off. Rotated it and set the lever positions. Not completely satisfied. Will very likely need to get alternative handle bars. Mirrors are pretty sad. They will very likely get replaced next week.
Headlamp was illuminating the heavens. Since I didn't want to be a portable light house for aircrafts, I decided to fix the aim. Turns out it was deliciously low tech. Simply open the two caps on the sides, loosen the aiming bolts and adjust up or down to suit. I had to turn it downwards of course.
When you get it right the visor will be aligned to the bezel edge. Here you can see my patent pending high-tech headlamp position tracker.
Immediate goals met, I went over the motorcycle noting things and there were plenty of things that require attention.
- The infamous panel gap.
- This high pressure fuel hose playing peekaboo.
- This horn wire which is getting a bit too friendly with the exhaust
- This annoying rats nest of wires beside the RR unit. Looks like the ABS has complicated wiring and nobody thought through the wiring management.- The clutch routing could use some attention as well. You can see it wiggle when you pull the clutch in,
- This brake host which is uncomfortably close to the tank lip.
P.S. : Apologies for the image orientation being all over the map. Didn't get a chance to fix that.

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Welcome to the Himalayan Club. It's just that RE leaves us customers to be more profound and they leave certain aspects of the motorcycle to be figured out by the customers themselves. The panel gap can be mended out to an extent by removing the side panel, you'll observe the starter relay on the side, and battery wires, make sure they chunked. The bulge actually is caused by the wires being clumped together, make sure they are arranged evenly and the gap would absolutely non-bothersome. In some cases, improper battery installation too can be the issue.

The high pressure fuel hose is the case with almost all Himalayan brethren out there, twist the tube towards the upper of the tank and it will hide perfectly under the tank edge crease.

The horn wire is okay, they don't make any disturbances. If you still feel shy about it, you can probably get a cable tie them both. C

One aspect of the Himalayan that I diss to this day is the way the wiring has been routed, or for that matter put in place. Total shod job, it looks as though everything in the bike has been put on haste. Nevertheless, a few mins is all that it takes to get them arranged in place. Don't expect miracles, they'll jump out naturally.

The brake hose near the fuel tank are only because of the new ABS setup. With a non-ABS setup, everything was tidy. What can they do. They don't have space, they have to squeeze it in there, and that's what they did. It's kinda cool, adds some muscle along the neck, think of it that way.

Do keep your ride observations and ownership posted.

Ride safe.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Royal Enfield Himalayan

Hi Guys,

It's been Long time, I hope you guys are all doing well. My recent History with bikes ended up with Himalayan from a Sports tourer.

I must be the only known Guy, who sold his Honda CBR 650F for a Himalayan , I could have easily gone for a Tiger XRX (second hand) or Suzuki V Storm, But some how it didn't feel quite right with Big Bikes, with huge weights, scarce parts, service centers and costly service costs, and mostly their suitability for Indian Roads and Driving Conditions. So, this is my first time with RE on Himalayan, New to everything.

So Finally Cashed Down on the Himalayan Sleet 2018 ABS (OCT 2018 Manufactured) from HSR Royal Enfield Bangalore. I have got the first service done at 530Kms and have done 1200kms as of today.

Following are some observations

1) From the day one i have noticed a strange wobble in handle bar at 55kmph to 60kmph and beyond 60kmph it subsides down. I have shown it to multiple times to HSR and other CVS motors during first service, the wobbling has not been rectified, they say it is present in all bikes and this is common.

2) Fuel Gauge inaccuracy: From full tank to Half tank reading it is accurate, from there on to empty is falls pretty fast.

3) Any Tubeless conversion options ? Always feeling skeptic of sudden puncture and the bike loosing stability.

Wobbling: The bike handle doesn't wobble left to right but up and down.


As rightly described in the thread, small parts of Wiring, the EVAP cable causing the Engine Kills and all of this i have done myself.

Any suggestions, please give your feedback.

Thanks
Regards
Madhan