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Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

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  • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

    Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View Post
    This is the work done:

    First time seeing an SC mechanic taking so much care and using a torque wrench.

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

    Originally posted by slopegatri View Post

    next week i'll try using 0.05/0.08mm clearances for intake/ exhaust respectively which are minimum spec according to Yamaha.
    Hi. Thanks for the tip about the handlebars. I will most probably do the same too.

    Regarding valve clearance, I have had good luck with keeping it at 0.06mm (intake) and 0.08mm exhaust. Now bike is at 30000km. Since beginning I have kept it this way every 5k km. Interesting is after 20,000km the clearances for me don't move that much. Only intake ever so slight. Maybe by 0.005mm.

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

    I had to change my chain sprocket kit by 30,000km. Actually around 25,000km itself was making a different noise and vibes also changed. But I pushed it as much as possible. The front sprocket had worn severely and were missing some teeth. The chain also ran out of adjustment room.

    If someone is attempting it, points to note - the engine sprocket nut is 30mm (a relatively odd size), the nut can be seized with rust. And will need lot of effort to remove with hand tools. It's good if one has an impact wrench.

    Edit : This technique would have helped save considerable stress and time if I knew of it earlier.

    https://youtu.be/UxD3qdD7LhE

    Chain kit B97WE6606000 Rs 2100
    Sprocket rubber B97F53640000 Rs 19 x 5 pc
    Swing arm rubber (don't have part yet) Rs 120

    Then the rear brake disc also came out of spec and so changed it.

    Rear brake disc B97F582W0000 Rs 842

    For the front brake pad another option from the stock pads are these from Yamaha

    5USW00450000 Rs 152 or
    2GSW00450000 Rs 166

    The 2GS one lasted me almost 20,000km and didn't cause any unusual wear on the disc. The stock lasted 10,000km and cost more. For my city use couldn't make a difference between these or the stock.

    Changed the front tire which was stock and lasted 30,000km to MRF Masseter 100/90-17 (stock is MRF FX1 100/80-17). Paid Rs 2350

    Other than this the usual consumables as oil, oil filter, air filter, front and rear brake pads, spark plug, fork oil change and swing arm greasing.
    Last edited by Kirankarunan; 12-12-2019, 07:51 PM. Reason: Additional information

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    • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

      Originally posted by Kirankarunan View Post

      Hi. Thanks for the tip about the handlebars. I will most probably do the same too.

      Regarding valve clearance, I have had good luck with keeping it at 0.06mm (intake) and 0.08mm exhaust. Now bike is at 30000km. Since beginning I have kept it this way every 5k km. Interesting is after 20,000km the clearances for me don't move that much. Only intake ever so slight. Maybe by 0.005mm.
      Hmm, so you are retarding intake only, interesting. i will try that combination as well. any major issues you faced in those 30k kms?
      Fz25 2018 (ABS retrofitted)

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      • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

        Originally posted by slopegatri View Post
        Hmm, so you are retarding intake only, interesting. i will try that combination as well. any major issues you faced in those 30k kms?
        I think this combination was in one of the pre launch service bulletins or by another member here.

        Nope except for periodic services, nothing touch wood. But I am very specific about the periodic services and do everything mentioned in the manual. It works well for me. Only once in a long while bunch of work comes together. For e.g. at 24,000km had to do the brake calipers seals and fluid and throttle body cleaning. Which was time consuming. And this time at 30,000km had to do the chain kit. Otherwise it's a few hours only to general service - oil change, filters etc. But during the 5000km between services only have to oil chain and little lube on cables, locks pivots

        Had a rat come and specifically eat only the headlight wire at the ECU. Luckily could fix that. Tip: if both high and low suddenly go out, could be a wiring issue with a rat. Lol.

        Comment


        • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

          Originally posted by Kirankarunan View Post

          Had a rat come and specifically eat only the headlight wire at the ECU. Luckily could fix that. Tip: if both high and low suddenly go out, could be a wiring issue with a rat. Lol.
          haha, i had cat issues few months ago. destroyed my rear seat cover for some reason. i guess no rat issues for me.

          Anyway. looks like as long as servicing is done properly, no issues in the bike. btw which engine oil do you use? i have only tried shell advance ultra for a brief period( 1130km) but mostly yamalube in past 9200km. i change it in every 2-2.5k kms.
          Fz25 2018 (ABS retrofitted)

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          • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

            ^ I had very good luck with the stock Yamalube. And I change it as per the spec at 5000km. I do only city riding with a mix of open roads and intense traffic. Maybe 15-20 percent is of intense traffic. The oil is dark but not unusually thin or anything at the time of changing. Going through everyones experiences here, think will stick with Yamalube. Price to performance and reliability it's good I feel for my usage. Guess high stress highway riding will shorten the oil life.

            Comment


            • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

              Received back Fz25 after plate bolts replacement. No changes observed.

              Originally posted by slopegatri View Post
              Anyway. looks like as long as servicing is done properly, no issues in the bike. btw which engine oil do you use? i have only tried shell advance ultra for a brief period( 1130km) but mostly yamalube in past 9200km. i change it in every 2-2.5k kms.
              How's your experience with Shell Advanced Ultra 10W 40 full synthetic oil? Some claims its even better than Motul 7100. As regarding Yamalube Sporty Premium, it is no good after a 1000kms ride in my usage of town traffic.
              Get GNU/Linux

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              • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View Post
                Received back Fz25 after plate bolts replacement. No changes observed.



                How's your experience with Shell Advanced Ultra 10W 40 full synthetic oil? Some claims its even better than Motul 7100. As regarding Yamalube Sporty Premium, it is no good after a 1000kms ride in my usage of town traffic.
                It was a bit better when it comes to the sound of the engine/vibrations. no difference in performance/mileage/heat etc.

                I have met lots of guys on fzv1/v2, r15v1/v2 with more than 1lac kms on their bikes without any engine issues. all of them recommend Yamalube Sporty Premium only with reduced change intervals. all those motul/shell exotic oils have is placebo performance increase, and cost more. and so far there's no proof those oils actually improve engine life. that's why i switched back to Yamalube although i change it within 2500km (only after 1st service i used it for 4260km). i ride mostly on highways ( 30/70%).
                Fz25 2018 (ABS retrofitted)

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                • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                  ^ I also thought about reducing the change interval. But then essentially doubling oil costs over a period of time. I weighed it against a bore kit and other engine overhaul costs. I felt worst to worst an engine overhaul is still less cost than doubling oil costs. Just my opinion. I have a relaxed riding style most of the time. As I ride quite a bit in a day. To ride at the top end all the time is tiring and suicidal for me in Bangalore.

                  Comment


                  • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                    Originally posted by Kirankarunan View Post
                    ^ I also thought about reducing the change interval. But then essentially doubling oil costs over a period of time. I weighed it against a bore kit and other engine overhaul costs. I felt worst to worst an engine overhaul is still less cost than doubling oil costs. Just my opinion. I have a relaxed riding style most of the time. As I ride quite a bit in a day. To ride at the top end all the time is tiring and suicidal for me in Bangalore.
                    yep i agree with that you gain some and lose some. it's just for peace of mind i change it at half intervals.
                    Fz25 2018 (ABS retrofitted)

                    Comment


                    • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                      So, should go for oil change every 3000kms with Yamalube Sporty Premium? But, in my case even the local Yamaha sub dealer mechanic says to go for Motul 7100! And, , Shell are known for fully synthetic oil with new esters lasting for 6000kms oil change. I'm confused. With Yamalube, the engine sound is bad, but I have no clue how good the oil is after 1200kms. I agree that this is a low compression old school engine from the 1980s. But, the engine is air cooled and thought Motul/Shell Fully synth. Oils will be better for the engine. Hmm..
                      Get GNU/Linux

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                      • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                        Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View Post
                        So, should go for oil change every 3000kms with Yamalube Sporty Premium? But, in my case even the local Yamaha sub dealer mechanic says to go for Motul 7100! And, , Shell are known for fully synthetic oil with new esters lasting for 6000kms oil change. I'm confused. With Yamalube, the engine sound is bad, but I have no clue how good the oil is after 1200kms. I agree that this is a low compression old school engine from the 1980s. But, the engine is air cooled and thought Motul/Shell Fully synth. Oils will be better for the engine. Hmm..
                        One thing we could do is, send the new/used Yamalube Sporty Premium oil to a test lab. test will show how bad the oil gets after 2.5k/5k kms. there's a yt channel from another xhbhp member sportztourer. he has done this for other oils. don't know how much it costs tho. but this will definitely kill the myth about oil being crap.

                        Another reason for changing oil before recommended interval - when a manufacturer says 5000km, that figure is for top gear(no idea if it's true), but we know bike runs on lower gears alot in traffic. so when you complete 5000km, your engine has probably done more than 5500-6000km. so it's better to reduce recommend interval by 500-1000km depending on your riding conditions.
                        Fz25 2018 (ABS retrofitted)

                        Comment


                        • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                          Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View Post
                          I agree that this is a low compression old school engine from the 1980s. But, the engine is air cooled and thought Motul/Shell Fully synth. Oils will be better for the engine. Hmm..
                          There are two styles or types of oiling to consider here. Some engines have the engine oil separate from the transmission and/or clutch oil. Air cooled BMW Boxer twins are an example. Your engine oil will last a bit longer if it is only lubing the engine. Meshing gears break down the oil quicker than spinning bearings and the clutch adds its own contaminates too. Most Japanese bikes have common engine/trans oil systems. So if your engine oil also lubricates the transmission and clutch... change the oil every 1000 miles. If it just lubes the engine you can go a bit longer. Lots of clean fresh oil will make an engine last a long time. I see very few oil related failures. What I do see a lot of is LACK of oil failures. Check the oil every time you start the engine. No fool'n... every time... without fail... always.


                          While you are at it oil your rear chain too... EVERY TIME YOU RIDE.


                          Now you ask what type of oil? I have never been a big fan of the motorcycle specific oils. They cost a lot of money and the only tests I've seen show that they don't hold their viscosity any better then regular oils. I've always used automotive oils. The problem now seems to be the new SJ and SL oils. The lighter weights of oil, 10W-30 and lighter, are now formulated to be "Energy Conserving".


                          We don't want thisThese energy saving oils have additives that may cause clutch slipping and other problems. They are also short on additives that bike engines need like Phosphorous. These oils will have a "Starburst" on them and will say "Energy Conserving".Starburst Right now the heavier oils like 10W-40, 20W-50, 15W-40, and 15W-50 aren't labeled energy conserving and should be all right to use. If your bike needs one of the lighter oils, you could use a light diesel rated oil with a C designation like CG or CH. The diesel oils are not required to be "Energy Conserving". They have come out with a MA and MB designation, but I don't have a lot of info about them right now. Bottom line... A 10W-40 or 20W-50, automotive oil with no "Starburst" symbol, and no "Energy Conserving" labelThis Ones OK !, should be just fine. If you are really worried, get a motorcycle specific oil. However, they do cost a lot more.


                          I don't have any experience with synthetic oils because...
                          1. None of my customers want to pay that much for oil.
                          2. I don't want to pay that much for my own oil.
                          3. I like frequent oil changes.


                          As I said before, change your oil often. Now, this always seems to be a big controversy. I don't know why. Seems a no brainer to me. All the tests I've read find that the oil breaks down, loosing viscosity, as the miles pile up. Add in all the byproducts from combustion... acids... moisture... whatever, and you got a mix that is steadily going down hill. Now, your supposed to leave that in your engine for 5-10,000 miles so you can save a few bucks on oil? No way am I gonna do that. I ride a BMW 750 air cooled twin. When I let the oil go too long the breather valve starts to chirp at me. I put in new oil and it stops. It just got a bit thin. This happens at around 1500 to 2000 miles. I have a Pontiac 6000 car. At around 3-4000 miles one or two of my hydraulic tappets don't want to pump up, so I get a bit of tappet noise. Oil's getting a bit thin. I put new oil in and it goes away. You pick'en up on what I'm saying? Change your bike's oil at 1000 miles and your car's at 2000 miles. If you are only riding a few hundred miles a year or less, change it at least once a year. Before putting it up for winter, if possible.


                          Actually, I don't know why I bothered to write this page on oil. Nobody ever listens. The season has just started (2001) and already a 1999 bike has come in dead... piston pin welded to the rod... no oil... $1,200 to fix. Another one this year. I pulled the oil drain plug on a lawnmower and NOT ONE DROP OF OIL CAME OUT. Filled it up with oil and got it started... ran just fine... no funny noises or noth'in... go figure .


                          As always...


                          IF YOU DON'T, IT'S OK
                          I DON'T CARE
                          IT'S NOT MY BIKE!

                          Copy Pasted from Dan's MC Course. The oil discussion has been debated to death, practice has proven time and again that the cheapest oil changed at around 1.5k km's per liter sump size would return more engine life that the priciest synthetic oil changed at a longer interval.

                          This is commonsense by now, but if the middle-class Indian mindset in our fellow riders finds solace in spending too much money on a dead asset rather than actually utilizing it to clock miles, then none can be of help.

                          Regards,
                          A.P.
                          Last edited by ashwinprakas; 11-16-2019, 01:41 PM.
                          Motorcycling Experience:
                          2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
                          2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
                          2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
                          2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
                          2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
                          2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

                          The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
                          Adios Comrades!
                          A.P. 2018

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                          • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                            FZ25 has a fully synthetic oil as the choice from Yamaha - Yamalube Sporty Premium 10W 40. Don't know if Yamaha uses semi-synthetic on FZ25.
                            Last edited by prakash_mvpa; 11-16-2019, 03:14 PM.
                            Get GNU/Linux

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                            • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                              Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
                              The oil discussion has been debated to death, practice has proven time and again that the cheapest oil changed at around 1.5k km's per liter sump size would return more engine life that the priciest synthetic oil changed at a longer interval.
                              .

                              Regards,
                              A.P.[/B][/I]
                              Hi absolutely agree that less or no oil is bigger problem than old oil. Unusual oil consumption is a warning sign that something is wrong.

                              P.S thanks for the tip about changing the control cables preventively before a failure. It saved me a lot of trouble as I can't afford to be stranded. Simple but very useful idea.

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                              • Re: Yamaha FZ 25 Owners Reviews and Experiences

                                Do anyone here have digital copy of FZ25 Workshop Manual?

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