Well 1st of all the sitting posture is a little aggressive, head light is better then the bs6 version. top speed is down 5-8km/hr. mileage increased . tappet noise is still there.

in my opinion price hike is not justified but its still the cheapest 250cc

Can anyone suggest me good brake pads?

Do you own a bs6 fz ? if yes please tell me if you did a long ride and share some raw pics with a little of ride experience.thanks

yes, i own an fz25 bs6. I'm not much of a writer but so far the experience is very good. i Did a 500km ride in the break-in period & later after 1st service did an 800km ride.
usually, i take breaks in every 200-250km so seat is comfortable, No hitting issue. I maintain a cruising speed of 90-100km/hr because of the windblast, overtaking is not much of a problem at that speed as well. But yes once you hit the highways a need for cruise gear becomes apparent.
In between 80-90-95 km/hr engine feels a bit harsh but after that feels smooth. Breaking in pretty good.

lastly, Yamaha never advertises the fz25 as a touring bike. It is a commute bike & it is very good at that section.
i bought a riding jacket, a good helmet, good gloves with the money that I saved by not buying a gixxer 250.

Pictures

Can anybody tell me how can i adjust the rear brake pedal's height?

bro .. can you tell me how to adjust the rear break paddle along with the light

I'd suggest you check your owners manual booklet, it will detail the process. Just in case you don't know, on most motorcycles, you will have a nut threaded on a bolt. This bolt and nut combo keeps the lever in its position. Adjusting this by tightening or loosening helps you get the right pedal position. If you still can't understand, ask you local mechanic and he will do it for you.

Cheers!
VJ

Hello owners, my friend owns a Yamaha FZ25, and he bought it used some time ago. We met the other day, and we discussed about carrying out the basic service ourselves.

Can anyone please lead me to the service manual of the FZ25?

Thanks & much appreciated.

1. service_manual_fzn250_bf97-f8197-e0
2. supplementary_service_manual_fzn250_fzf250_bc4-f8197-e1

Hi there is also a good series of videos on youtube in a channel called Life of Pal. The commonly done procedures are covered nicely.

ideally dont touch the tappet, the engine has some amount of rattling noise, try motul 10w 50 it keeps the bike cooler and reduces the noise, service center people dont want you to use anyother oil and you might be denied of warrenty, but i have been using motul since 2017 and the bike has performed much better than stock oil trwew si less heat less noise ans smoother gear shifts
Get the back wheel checked if it feels jammed
exhaust pipe discoloration or rust colour formation proves it is an original exhaust ,coating with heat resistant paint may help
Rear mono shock softning may lead to belly scraping on speed brakers if you travel double seat can soften a bit if it is on the hardest setting
4k kms is still relatively new ride a bit more the engine willl free up and the vibes should reduce
hope that helps
Above advice is as per my personal experience , i am not an expert
Cheers

Thank you for the suggestions bro will keep in mind!

Expert opinion needed..

I am on my 3rd FZ25, All bought used, ridden my current bike for last 2 and half month and covered 3000kms. Current odometer is 17400km. The bike was serviced from the ASC in Nov 30, and had done all the things scheduled with few extra jobs and in a very good condition. One thing has not been done till date is tappet clearance adjustment in it's lifetime.

Now, the problem is, when the bike gets proper hot (I mean proper operating temp, like on highway) I feel the punch gets missing, it struggle to keep up the pace, and build speed. Feels like it's not able to breathe properly. I am pretty much sure that tappet clearence needs adjustment to fix the issue. When the bike is cold, it performs just awesome.

I tried to adjust the tappet clearance myself, but was unable to open the covers as it was quite tight, and fiddling without the proper wrench could damage the covers. (Though, I was using proper 24 mm ring spanner, and have all the tools, like tappet adjuster, filler gauge etc).

I don't have much confidence on the ASC guys, as I feel they lack competency and perfection. However, I have no option left other than visiting them.

So, I want to ask experts here,
1. Do you really feel it's a issue of tappets?
2. What is your diagnosis? Are they become loose over time, or tight?
3. What are the points I need to look while doing the job at ASC, they dont allow inside normally.
4. Any other observation / suggestion.

PS. Air Filter, Spark Plug changed 3000 kms back, and replaced engine oil 200 kms ago.

Suggestion from fellow xBhpian like slopegatri , ashwinprakas paul.1911 Shashank K R will be highly appreciated.

I am a rookie in this forum, and this is my first post. Please excuse me if I have done any mistake.

Regards
SomrajSG

1) 20K - 25K kms seems reasonable time for a tappet and valve clearance check. So your bike is little bit early, but it'll make the difference. Valve timing get be defiantly more tighter and you'll see the difference when you open the throttle.

3) Don't try to DIY valve job, better let the ASC itself do it, but ask them to tell the numbers what clearances they've set using the feeler gauge for both the valves, verify the same as per service manual that its within the range and set in middle. Even if they don't allow inside, they must and should tell you the numbers.

4) Get the complete throttle body de-carbed, injectors fully cleaned to spec, fuel tank fully emptied, washed and cleaned dried. Also fuel pump fuel filter removed and cleaned if they too are clogged.
You never know what kind of fueling cycle the previous owner used to maintain. If the bike ran with either bottom of the barrel bad fuel, slug and mud accumulated at the bottom of the fuel tank, whether if he always ran with low fuel for ₹100 and the fuel pump ran dry most of the time.
If injectors are clogged, they wont be able to throw 100% of designed fuel required. Hence the missing/breathing problem.
A dying fuel pump or clogged fuel pump also wont be able to supply 100% max rated designed amount of fuel at full throttle.

P.S. this is your 3rd used FZ25! Damn, I'm really curious about the backstory!