Finally thanks sir for this post I have also started my work on my v3 I have talked to my svc and i will claim 2 rima and one shocker bottom in insurance to reduce the cost on my v3.

Can the new bs6 headlight be retrofitted on the bs4 fz 25?

It's been a while since I posted here, or even rode my bike. After some 6-7 months, I finally took my FZ25 for a spin. It had a new timing chain and tensioner, and valve clearances were adjusted to 0.08/0.12mm.

The bike pulled much better than before, but not at the same level as a normal FZ25 (in a bad way). The other bad part was the noise, which I have no idea about.

I recorded the sound after riding it for around 90kms. Sorry about the size of the recordings-



Perhaps someone could shed a light on this.

I recorded the sound after riding it for around 90kms. Sorry about the size of the recordings-



Perhaps someone could shed a light on this.

Damn, that's the first time i'm hearing that kind of noise on fz25 (usually its not that strong and loud). can't say for sure but sounds like valve train or balancer mechanism related.

It should like that only, even mine from long time. I know its scary but it is what it is.

I have attached a recording of my friend's bike for reference, which sounds much smoother and is quieter.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Sx...ew?usp=sharing

That's how my bike sounds even after 200-300km ride in hot weather with valve clearance set to 0.05/0.08mm.

How to retrofit ABS System

I get this question pretty much every week from so many members. unfortunately i didn't post this guide so far because i have lost many pictures i took during installation and i also forgot taking pictures on some stages because i had no one to help me. finally i'm writing this now because whatever details i can will help be helpful anyway. i will explain it same manner as how i did it. so here it goes.

1. compare the parts catalog of non abs vs abs version to see what parts are changed to accommodate ABS system. and after that make a list of required parts.
this list depends on your budget mostly. if you want exactly 1to1 conversion as factory bike, then it will cost alot. but you don't need to do that as there are parts we can modify and reuse as long as we have a good and experienced lathe workshop. i have shared a required parts list of my bike as i believe this is the most cost effective way to do this retrofit job.

2. Fabrication/modification -before buying any costly parts you need to modify and/or fabricate required parts. this is important because if you fail in this stage, money wastage will be a lot less.

a. first thing you need to do is fabricate abs modulator mount. for this we can use mild-steel(ms) square pipe or 2-3mm thick ms sheet. we can use evap canister mount points to mount this bracket and this bracket is used to mount another bracket (B97–F175T–00) which holds abs modulator see below pictures -

[ATTACH]255398[/ATTACH]
above is a side view of evap-canister mount where we are going to mount our fabricated bracket (green).

[ATTACH]255399[/ATTACH]
above is the front side view of same location.its not in exact center of chassis so keep that in mind.

[ATTACH]255400[/ATTACH]

this is the rough sketch of the bracket we are making. holes A are going to be used to mount this on frame. and holes B will be used to mount abs bracket B97–F175T–00.

[ATTACH]255401[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]255402[/ATTACH]
Above are pictures of said bracket before painting. unfortunately i don't have more pictures of this.

[ATTACH]255403[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]255404[/ATTACH]
That is after fitting it on the bike. for abs modulator fitment you can have a look at supplementary workshop manual i have provided before. it has everything step by step.

now that was the toughest job IMO as it required many refits. there's another option of just welding 2 plates on chassis to mount abs bracket B97–F175T–00. but i didn't want to mess with chassis. but if you are okay with it just take (abs bracket B97–F175T–00) to a welder with your chassis and he will weld 2 plates accordingly.

b. in this part we are going to modify our alloy wheels so that we can mount wheel speed sensor disc (toner disc). if you look at your wheel there's already some type of base available, we just need to remove some material and drill 3x m5 threaded holes. for this process you need to buy 1 speed sensor at least ( before buying res of parts) because removal of base material depends on gap between toner disc and speed sensor. this needs to be exactly 1.29mm not less and absolutely not more. otherwise it will change the slip % allowed by firmware. and this applies for both wheels. parts required - tonor disc , 1x speed sensor, 3x m5 aluminum bolts. for front wheel you need right side outer fork tube because that's where sensor mount is.

[ATTACH]255397[/ATTACH]

look at the circle, that's where we need to remove material to seat the toner ring. you can take rear wheel + toner disc+ bracket A+ speed sensor to the lathe guy and tell him to fit toner ring. when he removes/cuts the material tell him to do it 0.05 mm at a time. and tell him to keep toner exactly in middle. once you cut 0.05mm, mount bracket A (with speed sensor installed) and measure gap between B1 and B2. keep cutting it until the gap is exactly 1.25mm, after that cut it by 0.01mm at a time until you reach 1.29mm. repeat this same process with front wheel also. unfortunately i have lost pictures of this processes. but its not a difficult thing. any experienced lathe guy will do this job just tell him to install toner disc exactly in middle and keep the gap 1.29mm max. one suggestion- the use same toner disc for this process and once this job is done throw it away and install 2 new toner disc. its cheap anyway.

so by doing those 2 modifications we have saved money on buying new chassis and both wheels, that's almost 16-17k saved depending on how much lathe workshop charges.


3. Fitting all parts - now just buy all the parts required and install it. this is a simple step if you are comfortable with moderate diy stuff. just consult supplementary workshop manual for this. one important thing to note here once you install everything don't connect battery yet. do it after brake bleeding processes. this is needed because during transport the fluid inside abs modulator spills out a little and air could enter inside when it turns ON so to minimize that, we need to make sure there's no air in brake lines. parts list - [ATTACH]255405[/ATTACH]

4. Bleeding - According to workshop manual, this processes requires Yamaha diagnostic tool. but there's an alternative (if your SVC denies by any chance). basically once you complete brake bleeding process (again read workshop manual for this) go to any less traffic road which has some gravel. ride around 15-20 kph and brake as hard as you can so that abs kicks in (you will feel pulsation at levers when it does). do this 3-4 times (first rear then front). and repeat bleeding process again until you get 0 bubbles.

that's it.


some points regarding retrofit-
1. i did this job around January this year. rode almost 600km before lockdown and 250km since unlock. so total 850kms. haven't faced any issues and got saved 2 times. so investment is already worth it.
2. it works exactly like factory fitment. have compared it with both r15v3 and fz25 abs versions.
3. i'm using steel braided lines instead of stock rubber ones. but it's not necessary.
4. total cost for me was around 25k ( after selling old parts, got 10% discount on newer parts)
5. aside from abs, warranty is still valid for other things but it purely depends on your svc's goodwill. my svc owner was impressed by this so he agreed to offer warranty.
6. you can reuse current speedometer too, just need to solder some resistors, led and pnp transistor iirc. ask me you need more details.
7. i didn't change ECU because it has nothing to do anything with working of abs. abs unit has its own CU inside and it works separately. all it does is, sends a speed signal to speedometer via ECU. you can check wiring diagram for proof.
8. changing front master cylinder is not necessary, but newer one generates more pressure so keep that in mind.

so that's it, if you have any more questions you can ask here (don't pm because answers might help other users too).

1. FZN250_BS4
2. FZN250-ABS_BS4
3. SERVICE_MANUAL_FZN250_BF97-F8197-E0
4. SUPPLEMENTARY_SERVICE_MANUAL_FZN250_FZF250_BC4-F8197-E1

Just a quick confirmation. The MRF Masseters are the best tyres for good cornering on a budget right?
If so, is there any specific type of Masseter that I should go for or slap on any available Masseter as per Fz25s size?
Thanks

I guess the rim is faulty. I refill pressure every week and now its become usual just like refilling petrol.

Hi. Did you check by filling tire to 40+ psi and immersing in water ? All tricky leaks usually show up. Every week if losing air, it's fairly a fast leak I feel. I had a similar experience but that was more due to keeping the tire at recommended pressure of 29psi. It used to get puncture almost every 10 days. Very frustrating it was. Increased it to 36psi and changed to Masseter. After that no issue. Good luck with sorting out your issue.

I faced a very annoying problem with my FZ25 rear tyres. The bike is 2.5 yrs old and covered 15000 kms. During first 2 months of purchase I started noticing that the tyre pressure runs out within 2 weeks. I checked for punctures in 2-3 different local workshops but they couldn't find any holes. Early this year I found 6 six holes in the tyre which I mended. I asked the service center guys about the problem, they told that the bike needs to be kept in the svc for 4-5 days for checking if there's problem with tyres or the rim. I didn't want to do that for lack of time, so I went for new MRF Masseter X tyre.

Its been 3 months and 2000 kms with the new tyre and I am starting to have the same problem over again, this time though the pressure lasts about 2 weeks before needing a refill. Recently found 2 punctures which I mended but problem persists. I guess the rim is faulty. I refill pressure every week and now its become usual just like refilling petrol.

Didn't quite immerse it but poured some water and checked. Will try that...there must be a puncture. Other wise its a faulty rim and I better get rid of this bike.