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TVS Apache RTR 180

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  • Originally posted by Makky View Post
    The oil and the grease underneath are problematic! I read your sasta option of cleaning the chain with diesel. I will give it a try. Are you sure that lubing isn't required after the cleaning step? How about that 270 bucks worth TVS Chain Lube Spray?
    The chain is "o" ring one, it doesnt require lubing of any sorts, i'm running on non lubed chain for the past 2000KMS and the rear wheel is more free with the non lubed chain, the lubed one will attract dust and grimes which turns into sludge and that plays havoc with the freeness.
    The Magician"

    Comment


    • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
      The chain is "o" ring one, it doesnt require lubing of any sorts, i'm running on non lubed chain for the past 2000KMS and the rear wheel is more free with the non lubed chain, the lubed one will attract dust and grimes which turns into sludge and that plays havoc with the freeness.
      Righto! Thanks for the help!

      Comment


      • Originally posted by abbydance4life View Post
        Nice pic @Renny

        hey guys completed 150 kms...
        Everyone who haven't seen RTR 180 got impressed by its looks.
        Guys who have ride both P220 and RTR 180 told me that pick up of P220 is much better than P180, i know that P220 will surely go ahead of RTR in long stretch, but are they true about pick up as i have not ride any P220.

        Handling seems to be pretty impressive, but i can feel the vibration in first three gears.

        I am driving in varying speed in different gears, like till 5-30 in 2nd gear,10 - 40 in 3rd,4th and 5th gear. I hope this is a good way to drive till first 1000 kms.
        Yes, try ripping it with care i.e do not over-rev things and at the same time vary speeds through each gears.

        And about the difference in the pick-up between the RTR and the P220, the 40cc difference will always make it's presence felt.But still a RTR can keep up with a p220 until speeds of 100km/hr because of stronger low-end/mid-range.

        sigpic

        Comment


        • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
          The chain is "o" ring one, it doesnt require lubing of any sorts, i'm running on non lubed chain for the past 2000KMS and the rear wheel is more free with the non lubed chain, the lubed one will attract dust and grimes which turns into sludge and that plays havoc with the freeness.
          Buddy, O ring chains need more maintenance than D ring ones!
          Please don't run your chain dry, it will ruin it.
          I agree they attract dust&grime, but the lube is essential.
          As for the wheel freeness, it has to do with the chain adjuster setting&not the texture of the chain itself!
          Get your chain lubed asap man-you will really feel the difference in smoothness.
          Quench my thirst with gasoline!

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
            Buddy, O ring chains need more maintenance than D ring ones!
            Please don't run your chain dry, it will ruin it.
            I agree they attract dust&grime, but the lube is essential.
            As for the wheel freeness, it has to do with the chain adjuster setting&not the texture of the chain itself!
            Get your chain lubed asap man-you will really feel the difference in smoothness.
            Yes, The lubing of an O-Ring chain is mostly for the sprocket's life as the lube for the chain pins is sealed inside the chain by the O-Rings.The lube mainly keeps the chain rolling smooth and prevents rust in the long-run.

            sigpic

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
              Buddy, O ring chains need more maintenance than D ring ones!
              Please don't run your chain dry, it will ruin it.
              I agree they attract dust&grime, but the lube is essential.
              As for the wheel freeness, it has to do with the chain adjuster setting&not the texture of the chain itself!
              Get your chain lubed asap man-you will really feel the difference in smoothness.
              Sir i'am in love with the dry chain, it looks so new, the sproaket looks spanking clean, though it makes noices, it's not at all smooth as the lubed one but i'm loving it.
              I clean it with dry cloth once a week and check each rollers individually too.
              I know by doing this i'll be shaving 5-8K's from the overall life of my sproaket and chain but i'm ready for the sacrifice.
              The Magician"

              Comment


              • em wondering whether to go for pearl white color or matt grey..? both look gud but i doubt about whites' durability in the long run...n also it will require higher maintenance...wht say frnz..??

                Comment


                • Originally posted by sri.vaibhav View Post
                  em wondering whether to go for pearl white color or matt grey..? both look gud but i doubt about whites' durability in the long run...n also it will require higher maintenance...wht say frnz..??
                  Go for the colour which you like.

                  And what maintenance/durability are you talking about.Dont you see thousands of white/pearl white 4-wheelers, do they require extra maintenance?

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by sri.vaibhav View Post
                    em wondering whether to go for pearl white color or matt grey..? both look gud but i doubt about whites' durability in the long run...n also it will require higher maintenance...wht say frnz..??
                    All colours require same kind of maintanance my friend.
                    The Magician"

                    Comment


                    • Go for the pearl white mate....it looks awesome + the attention u get is satisfying
                      Regards,
                      Nikunj K


                      Comment


                      • Guys is tappets noise harmful? is it ok if we ignore the sound?
                        Regards,
                        Nikunj K


                        Comment


                        • I juz hope dis vibration problem is nt a big problem..? does it prove to b very uncomfortable for city riding...? i heard derz some kinda knob which can b rotated to set d desired tunning...is dat true ..???

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                            Sir i'am in love with the dry chain, it looks so new, the sproaket looks spanking clean, though it makes noices, it's not at all smooth as the lubed one but i'm loving it.
                            I clean it with dry cloth once a week and check each rollers individually too.
                            I know by doing this i'll be shaving 5-8K's from the overall life of my sproaket and chain but i'm ready for the sacrifice.
                            Regular chains needed a lot of lube so that it would penetrate and lube the mating surfaces of each individual link. This excessive lubing required that the chain be sealed in a chain case otherwise it would pick up dirt and grime from the road and spoil the chain and sprockets. Sealed o-ring chains meant that the lubing of each link, was taken care of internally. So they could be left exposed. However, a very important point which chicane pointed out is the lubing between the chain and sprockets. Any mechanical device which is in contact with another surface needs to be lubed. What i would suggest is first cleaning the chain thoroughly by whatever method you find ideal, however, be careful when using a solvent based product as it may spoil the o-rings. Then use a good quality chain lube to thoroughly lube the chain. Run the bike in gear on the mainstand for about 5 minutes so that the lube works its way everywhere. Then wipe off the bottom (outside), and both sides of the chain with a clean cloth. These surfaces do not contact anywhere and do not require continuous lubing. Leave the inside edge of the chain where it contacts the sprockets lubed. Most mechs these days still use the old methods of lubing and leave a gooey mess which attracts all sorts of rubbish. And i can't for the life of me understand why they put so much grease/oil on the outer surface of the chain. It doesn't touch anything!

                            Originally posted by sri.vaibhav View Post
                            em wondering whether to go for pearl white color or matt grey..? both look gud but i doubt about whites' durability in the long run...n also it will require higher maintenance...wht say frnz..??
                            Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                            All colours require same kind of maintanance my friend.
                            Not exactly. Tvs's great idea to give the grey a matte finish was to skip the laquer or clear-coat in the painting process. The result is that the paint and stickers are directly exposed to the elements. The clear-coat is not just for gloss and shine, it also protects the paint. So if you buy a grey, be prepared for the paint to have a lower life than a laquered bike.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                              Regular chains needed a lot of lube so that it would penetrate and lube the mating surfaces of each individual link. This excessive lubing required that the chain be sealed in a chain case otherwise it would pick up dirt and grime from the road and spoil the chain and sprockets. Sealed o-ring chains meant that the lubing of each link, was taken care of internally. So they could be left exposed. However, a very important point which chicane pointed out is the lubing between the chain and sprockets. Any mechanical device which is in contact with another surface needs to be lubed. What i would suggest is first cleaning the chain thoroughly by whatever method you find ideal, however, be careful when using a solvent based product as it may spoil the o-rings. Then use a good quality chain lube to thoroughly lube the chain. Run the bike in gear on the mainstand for about 5 minutes so that the lube works its way everywhere. Then wipe off the bottom (outside), and both sides of the chain with a clean cloth. These surfaces do not contact anywhere and do not require continuous lubing. Leave the inside edge of the chain where it contacts the sprockets lubed. Most mechs these days still use the old methods of lubing and leave a gooey mess which attracts all sorts of rubbish. And i can't for the life of me understand why they put so much grease/oil on the outer surface of the chain. It doesn't touch anything!





                              Not exactly. Tvs's great idea to give the grey a matte finish was to skip the laquer or clear-coat in the painting process. The result is that the paint and stickers are directly exposed to the elements. The clear-coat is not just for gloss and shine, it also protects the paint. So if you buy a grey, be prepared for the paint to have a lower life than a laquered bike.
                              I own Matt Grey RTR 180, should i go for lacquer coating!!
                              will it protect the paint?
                              When approaching a corner, stay on the gas until you see Jesus. Then brake HARD.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                                Regular chains needed a lot of lube so that it would penetrate and lube the mating surfaces of each individual link. This excessive lubing required that the chain be sealed in a chain case otherwise it would pick up dirt and grime from the road and spoil the chain and sprockets. Sealed o-ring chains meant that the lubing of each link, was taken care of internally. So they could be left exposed. However, a very important point which chicane pointed out is the lubing between the chain and sprockets. Any mechanical device which is in contact with another surface needs to be lubed. What i would suggest is first cleaning the chain thoroughly by whatever method you find ideal, however, be careful when using a solvent based product as it may spoil the o-rings. Then use a good quality chain lube to thoroughly lube the chain. Run the bike in gear on the mainstand for about 5 minutes so that the lube works its way everywhere. Then wipe off the bottom (outside), and both sides of the chain with a clean cloth. These surfaces do not contact anywhere and do not require continuous lubing. Leave the inside edge of the chain where it contacts the sprockets lubed. Most mechs these days still use the old methods of lubing and leave a gooey mess which attracts all sorts of rubbish. And i can't for the life of me understand why they put so much grease/oil on the outer surface of the chain. It doesn't touch anything!.
                                I was wondering where are you buddy....
                                Thanks a ton for the detailed explaination, will be lubing it with the motul chain spray then, cuz regular oil will end up making it home for the sludge.


                                Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                                Not exactly. Tvs's great idea to give the grey a matte finish was to skip the laquer or clear-coat in the painting process. The result is that the paint and stickers are directly exposed to the elements. The clear-coat is not just for gloss and shine, it also protects the paint. So if you buy a grey, be prepared for the paint to have a lower life than a laquered bike.

                                But the matt grey now looks like it's been laquered
                                The Magician"

                                Comment

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