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**rennycornelius** · 01-13-2011, 05:19 PM

@Ijok:

Talk to the owner of the showroom, he might help you in getting the thing replaced under warranty.

**abhilashabhi12** · 01-13-2011, 05:21 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

Hmmm.. thats a probable reason. Lucky you. I was in the middle of the long ride when it happened to me. And by the time it was realized, I'd covered almost 150+ kms. And my oil drain quantity was hardly 100ml, and I've been using Motul 300V too...

Btw, did you notice any other symptoms other than the oil level dip? I remember seeing oily deposits in the air box and oily smoke coming from it. (My K&N is directly connected to the carb and the tube to air box removed).

Bro K&N without jetting is known for this kind of problem, In my CBZ I used K&N without Jetting & my bike used to heat up like crazy & my mineral oil level used to go down after long rides & that's when i decided to use Motul 300V

Also please let us know what grade 300V were u using ? Cos 2 of my frnds have seen oil level going down in 5w40 grade of Motul 300V

**lijok** · 01-13-2011, 05:47 PM

@gixxer_junki - you are right... as I was riding, almost non stop, the initial symptoms where missed. Then when the sound started, I assumed it to be a loose tappet...

@Renny - The service manager has offered to help by sending service details of another bike and claiming warranty. He said this is the first 180 with this kind of trouble... Thats a small consolation.

@Abhilash - I've upjetted too bro. Even before upjetting, carb tuning was good enough. And until this incident, the engine was silky smooth. Even when I took it to my trusted mech for decarb at 25k, he said there is no carbon build up, that the engine is quite crispy and no need for decarb for another 10k atleast.... hmmmmm
Also, i too been using 5W40 grade of 300V as I could not source the 10W40. Also the 15W50, which costs more, did not show any difference whatsoever. I know the oil is not the culprit, coz I've been using this grade for the last 5-6 oil changes. Always the drain quantity was well within the limits and mostly never black....

**abhilashabhi12** · 01-13-2011, 05:56 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@gixxer_junki - you are right... as I was riding, almost non stop, the initial symptoms where missed. Then when the sound started, I assumed it to be a loose tappet...

@Renny - The service manager has offered to help by sending service details of another bike and claiming warranty. He said this is the first 180 with this kind of trouble... Thats a small consolation.

@Abhilash - I've upjetted too bro. Even before upjetting, carb tuning was good enough. And until this incident, the engine was silky smooth. Even when I took it to my trusted mech for decarb at 25k, he said there is no carbon build up, that the engine is quite crispy and no need for decarb for another 10k atleast.... hmmmmm
Also, i too been using 5W40 grade of 300V as I could not source the 10W40. Also the 15W50, which costs more, did not show any difference whatsoever. I know the oil is not the culprit, coz I've been using this grade for the last 5-6 oil changes. Always the drain quantity was well within the limits and mostly never black....

This is the 3rd time I am hearing about Motul 300V 5W40 oil level going down on Long ride, In my opinion please change over to 15W50 or at least 10w40.

My CBZ never used to like W40 Grade engine oil, It was Ultra short stroke High revving engine just like RTR & It always needed W50 grade & for the most part of the last 4 yrs I fed her with W50 300V or 5100 only.

Please try the W50 once, thicker oil always helps on long distance touring specially in High revving short stroke engines

Hard luck this time, wishing you all lucks in getting the warranty

**gixxer_junkie_m** · 01-13-2011, 05:56 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@gixxer_junki - you are right... as I was riding, almost non stop, the initial symptoms where missed. Then when the sound started, I assumed it to be a loose tappet...

Did the service engineer tell you as to how the oil was entering the combustion chamber?

**psr** · 01-13-2011, 06:33 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@gixxer_junki - you are right... as I was riding, almost non stop, the initial symptoms where missed. Then when the sound started, I assumed it to be a loose tappet...

@Renny - The service manager has offered to help by sending service details of another bike and claiming warranty. He said this is the first 180 with this kind of trouble... Thats a small consolation.

@Abhilash - I've upjetted too bro. Even before upjetting, carb tuning was good enough. And until this incident, the engine was silky smooth. Even when I took it to my trusted mech for decarb at 25k, he said there is no carbon build up, that the engine is quite crispy and no need for decarb for another 10k atleast.... hmmmmm
Also, i too been using 5W40 grade of 300V as I could not source the 10W40. Also the 15W50, which costs more, did not show any difference whatsoever. I know the oil is not the culprit, coz I've been using this grade for the last 5-6 oil changes. Always the drain quantity was well within the limits and mostly never black....

The problem seem to be from the heat produced due to the spirited long drive.Please remove K&N and move on to stock setup .Every engine is built with certain operating parametes and safety .By changing components and modifying we are changing the operating parameters without considering the design .It is ok for short and competitive runs....but for reliable and touring purpose,better to stick to stock...just my thought.

**lijok** · 01-13-2011, 07:09 PM

Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post

Did the service engineer tell you as to how the oil was entering the combustion chamber?

Do i need to say that they dont have a clue!

Originally posted by psr View Post

The problem seem to be from the heat produced due to the spirited long drive.Please remove K&N and move on to stock setup .Every engine is built with certain operating parametes and safety .By changing components and modifying we are changing the operating parameters without considering the design .It is ok for short and competitive runs....but for reliable and touring purpose,better to stick to stock...just my thought.

Bro... this was not my first long ride. I've done Tvm - blore in 12hrs, maintaining speeds of 110+ for long long durations. Yes, I agree modifying the engine parameters results in shorter life span. But not this short!!

**chicane1879** · 01-13-2011, 07:31 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

Do i need to say that they dont have a clue!

Bro... this was not my first long ride. I've done Tvm - blore in 12hrs, maintaining speeds of 110+ for long long durations. Yes, I agree modifying the engine parameters results in shorter life span. But not this short!!

Trust me, K&N Filters should not be used for prolonged time/longer hauls. I am yet to come across a K&N user who has continued using the same for more than a year or over 10k kms. It does more damage than good. And even if you upjet, the engine works a wee bit harder due to the increased air-fuel flow and when it is coupled with a thinner grade of oil(eating away of oil seals is a known fact in 300v) which is known to have shown serious drop in long tours it only points to one culprit i.e the filter. K&N is good for racing/occasional speed bursts and should be avoided in normal day to day riding/dusty conditions.

The P200's piston had some serious scratch marks when it was opened!!

**abhilashabhi12** · 01-13-2011, 07:41 PM

Originally posted by chicane1879 View Post

Trust me, K&N Filters should not be used for prolonged time/longer hauls. I am yet to come across a K&N user who has continued using the same for more than a year or over 10k kms. It does more damage than good. And even if you upjet, the engine works a wee bit harder due to the increased air-fuel flow and when it is coupled with a thinner grade of oil(eating away of oil seals is a known fact in 300v) which is known to have shown serious drop in long tours it only points to one culprit i.e the filter. K&N is good for racing/occasional speed bursts and should be avoided in normal day to day riding/dusty conditions.

The P200's piston had some serious scratch marks when it was opened!!

+1

after using K&N for 10k kms on my HH CBZ Classic, I learned it the hard way that it does more harm than good for touring purposes atleast.

**psr** · 01-13-2011, 09:58 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

Do i need to say that they dont have a clue!

Bro... this was not my first long ride. I've done Tvm - blore in 12hrs, maintaining speeds of 110+ for long long durations. Yes, I agree modifying the engine parameters results in shorter life span. But not this short!!

I can give you documented proofs how K&N is not for the continued good health of any engine.....but I am sure you had known the pros and cons of the mods you did, and took your decision.

**psr** · 01-13-2011, 10:10 PM

Originally posted by chicane1879 View Post

Trust me, K&N Filters should not be used for prolonged time/longer hauls. I am yet to come across a K&N user who has continued using the same for more than a year or over 10k kms. It does more damage than good. And even if you upjet, the engine works a wee bit harder due to the increased air-fuel flow and when it is coupled with a thinner grade of oil(eating away of oil seals is a known fact in 300v) which is known to have shown serious drop in long tours it only points to one culprit i.e the filter. K&N is good for racing/occasional speed bursts and should be avoided in normal day to day riding/dusty conditions.

The P200's piston had some serious scratch marks when it was opened!!

The problem with K&N is it is more porous than stock,and this allows more ,and larger dust particles to enter into the engine.This may be ok for competitive riding since engines are stripped and rebuilt every other race,but not for normal street use......still none of the professional racing Teams like Honda ,Yamaha,Suzuki,Aprillia,or Ducati ever use K&N...

**chicane1879** · 01-13-2011, 10:29 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The problem with K&N is it is more porous than stock,and this allows more ,and larger dust particles to enter into the engine.This may be ok for competitive riding since engines are stripped and rebuilt every other race,but not for normal street use......still none of the professional racing Teams like Honda ,Yamaha,Suzuki,Aprillia,or Ducati ever use K&N...

Yes!!

Heck, the drag racers/track racers resort to unrestricted intake to get better performance.But then those setups are continuously worked upon so that takes care of small life of those engines. They are meant to last some couple of hundred kilometers, only.

**abhishekch** · 01-13-2011, 10:37 PM

i was going for k&n .well i dont tour or do any long runs bike hardly runs 700 km in month that to in city .will still it will harm my engine.

**psr** · 01-13-2011, 11:17 PM

Originally posted by abhishekch View Post

i was going for k&n .well i dont tour or do any long runs bike hardly runs 700 km in month that to in city .will still it will harm my engine.

YES.....it will ....because it allows more and larger dust particles to enter the engine.

**A4D** · 01-13-2011, 11:20 PM

engine oil

Hello people im going for my second service looking for a good engine oil.im confused which one to go for SS\FS 10w/40 please let me knw.I dont find the front shocks to be good enough cos it will make a thud sound even on a small pot hole experianced it on my brothers bike too Thanks

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