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Apache RTR/FI
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m also running vid 14T in front, due to this top speed increases a bit(in top gear 59kmph @ 4k and stock was 52kmph@4k). there is a negligible lack of acceleration in initials but over all its good, mileage/ltr also increases to 46kmpl b4 it was arnd 40kmpl with stock set up.Originally posted by kauria View PostThanks both of you, so you suggest only change the rear one with Apache's 43 TBIKING ??? " A RELIGION "
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Guys, I switched to Motul fully synthetic 300v 5w40 some 2 months back (1300km). I would like to share my experience. Till Now I have used TVS Tru4, Castrol Active,Castrol power 1, Gulf . I was quite satisfied with the Gulf. Sine my bike crossed more than 8000km. I want to give my bike first taste of synthetic oil. I had a choice between Castrol Power 1 racing or Motul. Most of the reviews are quite even out between these two. I finalized Motul and started my search. Found the Motul dealer in Gopalapuram(Chennai) and bought it for 700/- Rs.
Covered these distance both in Highway and City traffic. I would like to differentiate this oil in both Highway as well City.
At highway:
1 ) Engine runs very smooth
2 ) Engine does not heat up much( Changed the Characteristic of RTR's
)
3) Wonderful Acceleration, Bike likes to rev as much.
4 ) Gear shift are precise
5 ) Reduced the vibrations little bit.
City traffic :
1) Engine as smooth and does not heat up as much.
2) Gear shifts are becoming very hard in traffic.
3) Pickup is top notch.
As of now ,I'm quite satisfied with the Oil except in heavy traffic
. Not sure about the VFM. Still needs to cover some more km's before understanding the nature completely.
Accidents hurt - safety doesn't
Always Wear Helmet While Riding
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Originally posted by Navin Apachean View PostThanks chatterbox... Much relaxed now
I will point this in the service this time.
And one more thing is the thong sound wen the front wheel bumps out of a pothole, the suspension is actually as good as it was wen i bought it (atleast the diff is not noticeable
). Is that from the head lamp assembly or the suspension itself and is that to be taken care off?? any recommendations??
Guys Please guide with this confusion so that I can go ahead with the service... Sorry if this one is silly... but this is my first bike...
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It could be from the suspensions, could be coz of a loose cone or it could be from the headlamp as you siad. One might never know until he examines the bike for such kind of a problem. Complain the same when u give it for service, they should take care of itOriginally posted by Navin Apachean View PostGuys Please guide with this confusion so that I can go ahead with the service... Sorry if this one is silly... but this is my first bike...
07 HH Zma
11 Honda Aviator DLX
14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
16 Scooty Zest
11 CBR 250R
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And i thought it happened cuz of the fuel injection, but it happened in the carbed too...Originally posted by onlinesatish View PostThis happened to my bike onces, My friend had to take my bike to his collage (30kms from his place) and i was at office and i had to be at his place asap! Ripped from my office with rpm hover above 7 all the time, His house is 8 kms from my office. He ripped the bike all the way to his collage. Bike stalled just a km before his collage and did'nt start. Parked it beside a hotel and went to his collage. He came back during lunch and started it, it was normal. Wonder what happened. this never repeated again though!
I think in both the cases, it happened cuz of the less fuel in the mixture.
Except for the fact that the bike revs more freely, that's cuz the oil is less thick (10W instead of 20W or 15W) there's no difference in anything,Vibes that the RTR is king at they are just the same, may be they are little less pronounced now but they have not reduced at all.Originally posted by Puneet1 View Post@renny - im also on Petronas , in my case i felt vibes also reduced a bit but that could be due to other factors . gears definetly become soft and more precise , especially on downshifting
Simply pull the clutch lever and leave it then see the play, (the not activated part before the clutch starts to apply), if it 4-5mm it's perfect, (always do it in cold bike, always), another method to check if your play is right, start the bike put it in idle, pull the clutch and tap the first, if it makes a banging noice, your play is more than required.Originally posted by RedApple View PostHow do i check the clutch play and the shifter springs?Last edited by rennycornelius; 03-16-2010, 12:32 PM.The Magician"
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Dont worry, u will be more than satisfied with it! Its a good oil. Am using the same on my bike.Originally posted by krishnan6015 View PostAs of now ,I'm quite satisfied with the Oil except in heavy traffic
. Not sure about the VFM. Still needs to cover some more km's before understanding the nature completely.
Renny, the first number is of no use to us. Its the minimal temperature till which specified viscosity is maintained. I have used both the Petronas and Motul 300V. Good oils. Vibes have definitely reduced and the heating is way less. Revs are much quicker. Definitely recommended.Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostExcept for the fact that the bike revs more freely, that's cuz the oil is less thick (10W instead of 20W or 15W) there's no difference in anything,Vibes that the RTR is king at they are just the same, may be they are little less pronounced now but they have not reduced at all.Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.
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In decarbonization, they open up head assy' and clean the slag set on piston head, cylinder wall etc. Moreover, they clean tappets, set the clearances again.Originally posted by Puneet1 View Posthey Indianz_alive - what all is done at the decarbonization . are you on stock tires or have you changed them to something ?
They also clean the throttle body and injector.
I've changed rear tire to Zapper-Q (18-90/100)in the past. Good performance.
Front tire is almost bald, but I found front stock tire to be good, so would be looking to get new front (TVS) soon as it's cost effective.Yes....
I'm still Alive...
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Sir i thought the first number gives out the viscousity, like the more it is the more thick the oil is.Originally posted by Aparajith View PostRenny, the first number is of no use to us. Its the minimal temperature till which specified viscosity is maintained. I have used both the Petronas and Motul 300V. Good oils. Vibes have definitely reduced and the heating is way less. Revs are much quicker. Definitely recommended.
Thanks for clearing it.
The Magician"
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bike idle problem
Hey guys i need some help. Today i saw my bike starts idling @ 4.5-5k after riding 10-12kms. Kindly help i checked Accel cable its fine When engine is cold idel is fine (on 1.3k) but after riding for few kms it starts idling @ 5k .
i own RTR EfiIts not enough to know how to twist the throttle; you must have judgement to know when and where to do it.
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You've to take to SC and get the engine management system checked.Originally posted by abhiwar View Post
Hey guys i need some help. Today i saw my bike starts idling @ 4.5-5k after riding 10-12kms. Kindly help i checked Accel cable its fine When engine is cold idel is fine (on 1.3k) but after riding for few kms it starts idling @ 5k .
i own RTR EfiThe Magician"
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Can anyone please suggest good engine oil.I have apache rtr 160 done 5.5k running on mineral oil from TVS,should i change to semi-synthetic? or synthetic ,which mineral oil?also pls mention the cost of the oil.and what should I do while changing from mineral oil to semi/synthetic oil.how to do engine flush?Speak Less,Speak Wise!
Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.
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No need for the engine flush, actually the engine never needs the flushing till 25000kms if the oil change was done timely,as the bike has only done 5.5k's then this time fill it up with Semi synth oil, go for POWER1 it'll cost you 270, run the bike in that oil for 2500kms and then shift to fully synth, the best one to go is PETRONAS SPRINTA 5000 which comes at 300 per liter and is very good oil for it's price, others are POWER 1 RACING (700 per liter) and MOTUL (850 per liter).Originally posted by haxor View PostCan anyone please suggest good engine oil.I have apache rtr 160 done 5.5k running on mineral oil from TVS,should i change to semi-synthetic? or synthetic ,which mineral oil?also pls mention the cost of the oil.and what should I do while changing from mineral oil to semi/synthetic oil.how to do engine flush?The Magician"
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same problem happens to me also .clean the throttle bodyOriginally posted by abhiwar View Post
Hey guys i need some help. Today i saw my bike starts idling @ 4.5-5k after riding 10-12kms. Kindly help i checked Accel cable its fine When engine is cold idel is fine (on 1.3k) but after riding for few kms it starts idling @ 5k .
i own RTR Efi
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