can I use led indicator(rear side) in my karizma r 2007 ?Is there any modification needed or just plug them in.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Collapse
X
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
LED indicators can be used..Karizma uses load dependent flash cycle, so with less current taken by the LED turn indicators, the flasher will not flash properly.Originally posted by satik View Postcan I use led indicator(rear side) in my karizma r 2007 ?Is there any modification needed or just plug them in.
If you are fitting a LED indicator then the flasher unit must be replaced with a suitable unit.
Good luckWhen Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
thanks psr sirOriginally posted by psr View PostLED indicators can be used..Karizma uses load dependent flash cycle, so with less current taken by the LED turn indicators, the flasher will not flash properly.
If you are fitting a LED indicator then the flasher unit must be replaced with a suitable unit.
Good luck
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
I have the same setup on my ride. 2 LED indicators, changed the flasher unit.Originally posted by psr View PostLED indicators can be used..Karizma uses load dependent flash cycle, so with less current taken by the LED turn indicators, the flasher will not flash properly.
If you are fitting a LED indicator then the flasher unit must be replaced with a suitable unit.
Good lucksigpic
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
did u changed only the rear indicators or the front ones too with led?Originally posted by acs1207 View PostI have the same setup on my ride. 2 LED indicators, changed the flasher unit.
what will happen if i only change the rear ones and change the flasher?
Comment
-
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Here after a looooong time........
Recently got the front fork set swapped with the ones on the ZMR.
The difference in height is about 2 inches. The fork nut on the ZMA tube fits perfectly on the ZMR tube as well (Thanks Akhil for the confirmation). There is significant increase in the height of the front end(Which I am feeling very comfortable for my height). Will be swapping the rear shocks as well in the upcoming days, with a taller one to compensate the front shock increase in height.
Haven't had some good chances to throw the bike around to see how it handles, mainly on trails/ Bad roads.
Difference in Height:
Before
After
P.S: the height of the Main and the side stand needs to be increased in order to rotate both the wheels freely
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
A rusted member here, posting after more than half a decade of hibernation.
Picked up a '14 zma in Jan this year,which had run only 23k as per previous owner, which I doubt. Yet, its a pleasure to ride this relaxed machine.
I went through almost 100 pages today(quarantine effect) and got most of the guys here have similar niggles.
I serviced it as soon as I got with idemitau oil, changed fork oil and fork seals, etc.
Now coming to the niggles,
1. Engine hiccups in the morning, until. Its heated up. Guess it's normal, showed it to my trusted mech, he tuned the car and now its much better, still its there slightly. May be I ll clean the carb thoroughly n change spark plug too to gpower.
2. Slight sound is present from timing chain when cold, I suspected timing chain wear in such a short time, but I see many guys posted it here already. Talked with my mech again n he told not to worry, idle at least for 1min+ in the morning till pump circulates the oil properly. Still, I hear it sometimes whether cold or hot. Need to know if it's timing tensioner or oil pump..
3. When I got, everything was perfect, but after riding for few days, got to know 2-3 brackets of front fairing are broken n it's making hell lot of sound in rough roads!!
4. Coming to tires, had multiple heart in mouth situations when I rode pune Mumbai pune last month, thats when I decided, new tires are a must as soon as possible. These tyres are only good for normal highway cruising, slight cornering in ghats just slides the bike. Situation is worser in concrete roads, when it just locks n slides at 40kmph braking!! Saw many posts n short listing pirelli sd, masseter, and a new entrant whose reviews I havent seen yet, jk blaze rydr. Need suggestions.My New Blog : http://ridesaferidelong.blogspot.com/
Catch me in FB : http://www.facebook.com/varuntheunxpected
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
For ticking noise check valve clearance and check oil pump is working or not how much oil comes in head when it is starting then if everything is ok . Go for camchain tension whether it is good or not see how much gap you see when you put back if there is no gap of less u need to change cam chain and came chain guide too
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Go for the Masseters. For the sizing ZMA has, they are fairly good and better than JK (speaking from experience of using JK back on scooters). You should upsize the front to a 90/90 if you can. As for the rear, not sure if the 120/80 is the most the new ZMA for accommodate. Also, if you can find good TVS Remora rubbers, they are good for basic riding needs.Originally posted by VarunRTR View PostSaw many posts n short listing pirelli sd, masseter, and a new entrant whose reviews I havent seen yet, jk blaze rydr. Need suggestions.[My Motorcycles]
2019 - Honda xBlade Non-ABS (2018)
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Hi 1)Clean the Petrol Tank ,Adjust tappets and add a new cam chain tensioner,Clean the prefuel filrer(black plastic cylinder below tank(connects tank to fuel pump) Fuel pump,throttle body and injector(refer TOP END videos of how to clean ZMR trottle body and Injectors).Put a new Air filter.If possible change all fuses(arround 6 i guess).Try using a fully syth oil(best for zmr is shell helix ultra 10w40 fully synth,use an oil flush if u r old oil is not fully synth while changing oil.MAKE SURE YOU RESET ECM AND TROTTLE BODY SENSOR AFTER PUTTING BACK CLEANED THE FUEL PUMP,INJECTOR,TANK,PREFUEL FILTER AND TROTTLE BODY(REFER TOP END VIDEOS IN YOUTUBE ON HOW TO RESET ECU,TPS SENSOR OR FAULTY CODES.Even after putting a new cam chain tensioner if u get cam chain noise,u can put a new cam chain set(comes with a cam chain,cam sproket,2 cam guides and cam chain tensioner costs rs 1400-1600.Before setting tappets make sure u turn the cam chain anticlockwise inTDC position.Most of the small garges have no idea about setting the timing first before adjusting tappets. Adjust and lubricate the Chain(5-10mm freeplay).Clean and lubricate the trottle wire and ensure a freeplay of 5-15mm free play at the throttle .Pirelli is great,sticks nicely to the road,but stock mrf is good too.For pads u can use bosch for front and rear and TVS apache rtr 160 is a direct fit in front..total cost for front and rear 2 sets will only be rs 600, and u can do it u r self or at garage maximum they will charge rs 100..showroom oem pads +labour will come between 2800-3200.I have been using bosch pads for one yr(12,000 kms done ) and still 60% pads are there at back and 40% at front.U need to idle only for about 20 sec to warm up as within 5-10 sec oil reaches the engine head and within the next 5 to 10 sec ,all moving parts have oil circulation.With fully synth oil and platinum/iridium sparks,u will have lesser engine sound,cleaner combustion without missfire,smoother gear shifts,cooler engine.Change gears between 3k-4k rpm.Best mileage is attainanle when u drive at 45-55km at 5th gear.At highways the best speed for long runs is between 60-70kmhr where u can get best engine performance without stressing out engine(meaning driving 4-5 hrs at a time continously at 60-70km/hr while touring and engine would not give u any problems for the entire trip.Originally posted by VarunRTR View PostA rusted member here, posting after more than half a decade of hibernation.
Picked up a '14 zma in Jan this year,which had run only 23k as per previous owner, which I doubt. Yet, its a pleasure to ride this relaxed machine.
I went through almost 100 pages today(quarantine effect) and got most of the guys here have similar niggles.
I serviced it as soon as I got with idemitau oil, changed fork oil and fork seals, etc.
Now coming to the niggles,
1. Engine hiccups in the morning, until. Its heated up. Guess it's normal, showed it to my trusted mech, he tuned the car and now its much better, still its there slightly. May be I ll clean the carb thoroughly n change spark plug too to gpower.
2. Slight sound is present from timing chain when cold, I suspected timing chain wear in such a short time, but I see many guys posted it here already. Talked with my mech again n he told not to worry, idle at least for 1min+ in the morning till pump circulates the oil properly. Still, I hear it sometimes whether cold or hot. Need to know if it's timing tensioner or oil pump..
3. When I got, everything was perfect, but after riding for few days, got to know 2-3 brackets of front fairing are broken n it's making hell lot of sound in rough roads!!
4. Coming to tires, had multiple heart in mouth situations when I rode pune Mumbai pune last month, thats when I decided, new tires are a must as soon as possible. These tyres are only good for normal highway cruising, slight cornering in ghats just slides the bike. Situation is worser in concrete roads, when it just locks n slides at 40kmph braking!! Saw many posts n short listing pirelli sd, masseter, and a new entrant whose reviews I havent seen yet, jk blaze rydr. Need suggestions.
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
u can use loctite or mseal to fix brackets,if not u can buy fairing set from thesparescompany.com or safexbikes.Originally posted by DrAzlan View PostHi 1)Clean the Petrol Tank ,Adjust tappets and add a new cam chain tensioner,Clean the prefuel filrer(black plastic cylinder below tank(connects tank to fuel pump) Fuel pump,throttle body and injector(refer TOP END videos of how to clean ZMR trottle body and Injectors).Put a new Air filter.If possible change all fuses(arround 6 i guess).Try using a fully syth oil(best for zmr is shell helix ultra 10w40 fully synth,use an oil flush if u r old oil is not fully synth while changing oil.MAKE SURE YOU RESET ECM AND TROTTLE BODY SENSOR AFTER PUTTING BACK CLEANED THE FUEL PUMP,INJECTOR,TANK,PREFUEL FILTER AND TROTTLE BODY(REFER TOP END VIDEOS IN YOUTUBE ON HOW TO RESET ECU,TPS SENSOR OR FAULTY CODES.Even after putting a new cam chain tensioner if u get cam chain noise,u can put a new cam chain set(comes with a cam chain,cam sproket,2 cam guides and cam chain tensioner costs rs 1400-1600.Before setting tappets make sure u turn the cam chain anticlockwise inTDC position.Most of the small garges have no idea about setting the timing first before adjusting tappets. Adjust and lubricate the Chain(5-10mm freeplay).Clean and lubricate the trottle wire and ensure a freeplay of 5-15mm free play at the throttle .Pirelli is great,sticks nicely to the road,but stock mrf is good too.For pads u can use bosch for front and rear and TVS apache rtr 160 is a direct fit in front..total cost for front and rear 2 sets will only be rs 600, and u can do it u r self or at garage maximum they will charge rs 100..showroom oem pads +labour will come between 2800-3200.I have been using bosch pads for one yr(12,000 kms done ) and still 60% pads are there at back and 40% at front.U need to idle only for about 20 sec to warm up as within 5-10 sec oil reaches the engine head and within the next 5 to 10 sec ,all moving parts have oil circulation.With fully synth oil and platinum/iridium sparks,u will have lesser engine sound,cleaner combustion without missfire,smoother gear shifts,cooler engine.Change gears between 3k-4k rpm.Best mileage is attainanle when u drive at 45-55km at 5th gear.At highways the best speed for long runs is between 60-70kmhr where u can get best engine performance without stressing out engine(meaning driving 4-5 hrs at a time continously at 60-70km/hr while touring and engine would not give u any problems for the entire trip.
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
There are a lot of them when I checked. Make sure u directly buy from owner only, 2013/14 models if everything is perfect - 35-40k is good. Check all plastic part brackets if broken from inside/fixed with fevi quick. Go n test drive from their house to see cold start/ride behaviour, and ride thru bad roads also.Originally posted by djcena View PostFriends i need help,
I am thinking of buying pre-owned karizma R in pune.
can anyone help me as to what are benchmarks/ precautions i shall take before purchase and also price range.
thanks
Thanks. Will check these in the nxt service nxt month. I was also thinking of changing only tensioner first n see but mechanic suggesting not to do that, instead change set only. Will insist him to try.Originally posted by Motokarkhana View PostFor ticking noise check valve clearance and check oil pump is working or not how much oil comes in head when it is starting then if everything is ok . Go for camchain tension whether it is good or not see how much gap you see when you put back if there is no gap of less u need to change cam chain and came chain guide too
My experience with jk in car tires is also not good, but thought of shortlisting as its being marketed as premium bike tires. Will be going for Front 90/90-18 and rear 110/90-18.Originally posted by Bismaya View PostGo for the Masseters. For the sizing ZMA has, they are fairly good and better than JK (speaking from experience of using JK back on scooters). You should upsize the front to a 90/90 if you can. As for the rear, not sure if the 120/80 is the most the new ZMA for accommodate. Also, if you can find good TVS Remora rubbers, they are good for basic riding needs.
Thanks for the heads up 👍. BTW its zma and not zmr-Carburetted. Does anyone know the exact tappet clearance values for intake n exhaust valves? Will be going with motul 5100 only in nxt service as that has given best results in all the Bikes I ve used.Originally posted by DrAzlan View PostHi 1)Clean the Petrol Tank ,Adjust tappets and add a new cam chain tensioner,Clean the prefuel filrer(black plastic cylinder below tank(connects tank to fuel pump) Fuel pump,throttle body and injector(refer TOP END videos of how to clean ZMR trottle body and Injectors).Put a new Air filter.If possible change all fuses(arround 6 i guess).Try using a fully syth oil(best for zmr is shell helix ultra 10w40 fully synth,use an oil flush if u r old oil is not fully synth while changing oil.MAKE SURE YOU RESET ECM AND TROTTLE BODY SENSOR AFTER PUTTING BACK CLEANED THE FUEL PUMP,INJECTOR,TANK,PREFUEL FILTER AND TROTTLE BODY(REFER TOP END VIDEOS IN YOUTUBE ON HOW TO RESET ECU,TPS SENSOR OR FAULTY CODES.Even after putting a new cam chain tensioner if u get cam chain noise,u can put a new cam chain set(comes with a cam chain,cam sproket,2 cam guides and cam chain tensioner costs rs 1400-1600.Before setting tappets make sure u turn the cam chain anticlockwise inTDC position.Most of the small garges have no idea about setting the timing first before adjusting tappets. Adjust and lubricate the Chain(5-10mm freeplay).Clean and lubricate the trottle wire and ensure a freeplay of 5-15mm free play at the throttle .Pirelli is great,sticks nicely to the road,but stock mrf is good too.For pads u can use bosch for front and rear and TVS apache rtr 160 is a direct fit in front..total cost for front and rear 2 sets will only be rs 600, and u can do it u r self or at garage maximum they will charge rs 100..showroom oem pads +labour will come between 2800-3200.I have been using bosch pads for one yr(12,000 kms done ) and still 60% pads are there at back and 40% at front.U need to idle only for about 20 sec to warm up as within 5-10 sec oil reaches the engine head and within the next 5 to 10 sec ,all moving parts have oil circulation.With fully synth oil and platinum/iridium sparks,u will have lesser engine sound,cleaner combustion without missfire,smoother gear shifts,cooler engine.Change gears between 3k-4k rpm.Best mileage is attainanle when u drive at 45-55km at 5th gear.At highways the best speed for long runs is between 60-70kmhr where u can get best engine performance without stressing out engine(meaning driving 4-5 hrs at a time continously at 60-70km/hr while touring and engine would not give u any problems for the entire trip.
Tires, my first preference is pirelli as I m not hearing good reviews for recent sirac after 2015. Stock mrf are horrendous to say the least.My New Blog : http://ridesaferidelong.blogspot.com/
Catch me in FB : http://www.facebook.com/varuntheunxpected
Comment
-
Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Try mrf masseters they are very good I m using them on my pulsar 220 ,gripping is very very good,doesn't skids and braking has become better,on wet surfaces they have done better then most,I m using stock 90/90 r17 for front nd 120/80 for rear..Originally posted by VarunRTR View PostThere are a lot of them when I checked. Make sure u directly buy from owner only, 2013/14 models if everything is perfect - 35-40k is good. Check all plastic part brackets if broken from inside/fixed with fevi quick. Go n test drive from their house to see cold start/ride behaviour, and ride thru bad roads also.
Thanks. Will check these in the nxt service nxt month. I was also thinking of changing only tensioner first n see but mechanic suggesting not to do that, instead change set only. Will insist him to try.
My experience with jk in car tires is also not good, but thought of shortlisting as its being marketed as premium bike tires. Will be going for Front 90/90-18 and rear 110/90-18.
Thanks for the heads up [emoji106]. BTW its zma and not zmr-Carburetted. Does anyone know the exact tappet clearance values for intake n exhaust valves? Will be going with motul 5100 only in nxt service as that has given best results in all the Bikes I ve used.
Tires, my first preference is pirelli as I m not hearing good reviews for recent sirac after 2015. Stock mrf are horrendous to say the least.
Comment



Comment