Hello Everyone,

Few months back, all of sudden petrol from drain pipe of carburetor of my Karizma R(Bought in 2008) started flowing out. It was not dripping. Then, I took it to few mechanics in my city, but they said, it will be hard to find parts for the carburetor of such old bike. Then I tried to solve it myself maybe some thing is causing the float valve pin to not close properly, so I went through videos for how to open and clean the Carb. I had never worked on any Carb ever till this point as I was afraid to do anything on it.

On opening it, I cleaned it as much as I could and put everything back. But the petrol flowing out of drain pipe was solved for few days. I cleaned the float valve, checked float for any punctures on it, I found none. Problem came back few days back, when I turned the petrol knob to ON, fuel started to flow from the drain pipe again.
Also while cleaning, I found few parts were damaged. AFR screw was bit mangled. Also, the second Diaphragm (smaller one) has some small holes in it and it is bit sticky as well. On going through previous posts, I found it should not be like that.
1. Mangled AFR Screw

2. Second Diaphragm (Adding in Attachments), one can see small holes in it, when placed over the light.

I went Hero Service Parts shops, they said they don't have it and they will not order it, as they cannot confirm when they can deliver it to me.

On looking online for the carburetor, I looked into Hero Eshop website: https://eshop.heromotocorp.com/carbu...00kry901s.html

It shows it is available in my location but I was never able to order it successfully. Then on calling them I got to know, there is problem in website, so I wont be able to order it from there. Then, they gave me numbers of hero shops in my state, where it could be available. I called them, but they don’t have it either.

So, is there any way I can get a new Carburetor for my Karizma or any part of it, from any websites or anyone, who can be trusted?

Before the EBR screw up the Karizma was same from intro till then. The only change I know of is that till 2006 it had an aggressive Ignition timing , and post 2007 it was tamed a bit to give better Mileage. The difference in RPM Versus speedo could be either speedo error or Clutch slip.

For the punctured Air Cut Off Valve disk , you can try touching up the individual holes with rubber based glues like Dendrite. do the touch up on the side facing the carburetor.ie., the pin side of the valve

Hey Vijay1911

Have you checked whether the drain screw is loose or something? Because I don't think it is possible to leak from drain pipe if drain screw tight.

The bowl drain screw is just that. If the Petrol level inside the carburetor increases then you will definitely see the drops of petrol at the bowl drain.

I don't know much about the old generation technology but what I learned from working on my bike is what I have.
But anyway nice to hear from you, definitely help to understand more. And also thanks for the feedback which really keeps things going on XBHP forum.

Please excuse me for posting so late.
I somehow managed to get the new carburetor for the bike, after making few more calls to Hero spare part shops. Had to take the bike to a showroom near by my home to get the new carburetor fixed on the bike.

Hello Sir,
Thank you for the suggestion. I will keep this in mind. This will be helpful in future.

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Hello Vishal Wagh Sir,
I checked the drain screw in the old carburetor, there was some rust formation on the screw end. On blowing air to the brass tube inside the bowl, with drain screw being fully closed, air was able to leak to the drain side, through drain screw. Maybe that's why, fuel was draining.
Here is the image of it.

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Its Nice to have final feedback from you and Good to hear that your are changing the Carburettor rather than parts.

To talk about the drain screw, I don't know about whether the leak is due to corrosion on tip of the screw or O-ring.

Hello .please can some one advice on good quality steel braided front brake hose..someone have advice that pulsar 220 have steel braided lines but those lines only cost 340-350..so bit confused.thanks

Hi .so got the steel braided line..attaching pic for ref and pary number..i have lowered the handle by 1 inch already so there is no issue of fiting..price is RS1111

Can i request if someone ( psr sir if you can help here) can explain the significance of second accelerator cable..i am trying to install pulsar backlit switches with engine kill switch but then i need to give up on the second throttle cable so just curious what will be affect if i dont use second cable..i remember it was discussed in the forum earlier but unfortunately i am not able to search that post.thanks

The second cable is basically to help shut the butterfly valve in case the valve gets stuck, it's basically a fail safe mechanism, mostly used in Japanese motorcycles. It doesn't have any significant necessity to be honest, with push and pull, pull and push, the idea is to get the valve closed safely and effectively. Using a single cable isn't going to in any way negatively affect the throttle action nor hamper the dexterity. Waiting for psr to chime in.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

The Karizma has what is called "A" and "B" cable. The "A" cable is the one that pulls the Butterfly open, while the "B" cable allows it to return to a preset point. When both cables are in place the Throttle grip is set to stop before it hits the stopper in the Twist throttle. ie., the throttle stop is governed by the "B" return cable . If "B" cable is removed then you will notice that the throttle returns with a lot of slack . Many a time a stuck "B" cable due to weathering will prevent the throttle from returning fully back leading to Raised Engine RPM, as though throttle is continuously applied.
So this "B" cable can be eliminated and throttle slack adjustment done properly to ensure proper throttle working with only the "A" cable. there is no harm done with this elimination of "B" cable. I had done it in my Karizma since 2015 and face no problems.
A word of Caution... the throttle ring end for stopping is narrow and the "A" cable stop end will get into cable slot in the throttle grip. So a separate stopper to stop the throttle ring at the end must be added to ensure throttle stops and does not get jammed.

Thankyou for the explanation

Thanks sir..i will keep this in mind..