Good to know you want to go for the bike. If waiting is not an issue, then all is good. According to me, reliability is same on both, as both are same machine. For check points, many experienced riders are here, they will help.

I am from chennai and can be of help , if you are looking for one DM me

Hi all, I'm facing serious FE problems with my zma. I'm only getting 28 in city and 31 in highways. Engine was rebored approximately 8k kms before but the fe issue started before that. Recently I've noticed fe has gone down further so I thought would seek help here. Afr setting is at 3 full turns and bike idles at 1.2 on cold start and slightly above when engine is hot. Performance is quite well. Spark plug is g power, air filter was replaced around 5-6k kms ago. One thing I find odd is, whenever I pull choke, idle only rises up to around 2k. Spark plug colour is whitish with a very light brown tint. And I'm not ripping the bike at all. Gear shifts are around 3k rpm. My mech thought the fe problem was due to vaccum piston so we replaced it but no use. All the variables like spark plug, afr tuning, vaccum piston, chain sprocket are fine in this case. I just can't think of a reason for this low fe. So if anyone here could throw some light, it would be great. Also, I couldn't find xbhp connect app in Play Store. Haven't used xbhp for a long time. App is not available anymore?

I'm from Kerala. Spares which are changed regularly are easy to source. Even parts like cams, rockers were readily available in the local spare shop when I fixed my engine couple years back. Body panels are available in major cities. But recently I had to change the t-stem and I searched almost every well known service centers in the state but could not find one. Even placed an order at the showroom and waited two weeks but no luck. Finally I got the t-stem fixed from a lathe. Last week I had to change the lock set and it was out of stock but the spare shop guy was able to source one within two days. I have sourced few parts which are usually not easy to find from an online store called the thesparescompany.com but they went out of business a year back but now they are back online. So finding some parts will definitely be a huge task. If you can get a bike which was well maintained, go for it. Otherwise only buy one if you have plenty of time and patience for finding/fixing parts.

Took a lot of time to restore my 2004 Zma, Black. Had a difficult time sourcing all OE spares from different vendors. Found Unique Auto Spares - Contact Number:81782883920, He deals with many OE HH spares. So, people who are restoring CBZ, ZMA, Ambition, CD Dawn etc can seek his help in procuring OE spares.

My biggest issue was that I was unable to find the gold monogram separately and had to buy the tank instead which took a lot of effort. Currently the bike doesnt run cause of a faulty floatpin needle(if anyone has a spare OE Floatpin Needle, please help) also looking for a silencer plate ring.

This is my zma.

Hello B7ACKTHORN psr ,fellow members...My friend was facing some problem with clutch slippage from some time..we went to new garage and found previous mechanic have installed only 4 friction plate instead of 5..there are other issue with the clutch assembly as well so ordered whole assembly.
so just curious how performance would be affected when less than 5 clutch plates are present.how much slippage or what kind of effect it make..does the lesser amount of plates effect in higher rpms only ..just curious..thanks

Depends a lot on the driving style. People doing slower acceleration , lesser load ie., single person ride, , not attempting overtake or sudden accelerator input , generally driving in Grandps mode will have no problems....otherwise lesser number of clutch plates and or slip will cause lower FE , lesser power,lower speed, and quicker clutch wear out.

Thanks psr sir

Hi All,

Hope you guys are all rockin with ZMA. I'm looking for Karizma workshop manual. Basically would like to know the carburetor float bowl height that is recommended by factory.

Reminds me of my Pulsar 220 days, which were prone to the infamous front fairing buzz that seem to come out of everywhere. You think, you've found out a spot, isolated that spot and do some jugaads to fix it and voila in 10 mins the sounds return. What I did back then was pretty much the same. I've tried the following, double-side tape, nylon washers over the philps screws of fairing, not all but some and thirdly, my jugaad where I cut cycle tubes to squarish pieces and stuck them at the prime points.

From my experience, cycle tube, cut to right sizes pieces glued strategically helped "tighten" the fairing unit as a hole. Meaning, there used to be gap between the rubber grommet and the body in my P220. Using these tube patches eventually made them fit tighter, meaning, once where there were gaps between rubber grommets, now the rubber grommet sat tight pressing against the body which had my rubber patches pasted. This reduced 90% of the vibrations and cold runs were as smooth as a Honda, though once heated, the typical harshness of the engine was present.

The cowl/fairing buzziness, that plasticky buzz I was used to had vanished and it stayed the same till I parted ways with the bike, back then. I've tried double sided tapes, washers, but nothing solved it to my satisfaction like cycle-tube patches placed strategically through trial and error. In your case, the lower air dam cowling and the mounts might not look good using patches, but you can try this on your front quarter fairing innards. Also, the Karizma wasn't a vibe-free bike, eventually, it it will creak and crack given its age. If you find your engine vibration to be prominent, try inspecting your engine foundation bolts for proper torque. Also I'd recommend you to tighten your head/cylinder main bolts as they eventually get loosened over time and can lead to engine vibrations.

Glad to see you post after a long time, hope all is well on your side.

Take care!

Cheers!
VJ

Ohh.. this thread has been quiet for quite a while it seems. I recently reacquired my Karizma R need to rebuild the front forks. The user manual has the quantity of oil per fork listed (144ml +/- 2ml) but does not mention the grade of fork oil..

Im looking for the plush stock Karzima ride so im assuming the fork oil is 10w. 20w may make the ride too stiff i feel.

Please advice if 10w is the stock weight fork oil used in the Karizma forks

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

Would recommend you stick to 10w for the best of both worlds. 20w would definitely make it harder and non-compliant.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks VJ. Will pick up a 10w bottle tomorrow from Yamaha. They sell a 1/2 litre bottle of 10w fork oil. Quantity wise is 150ml a safe bet? as measuring a precise 146ml will be a pain. Thanks

Seems nobody has any queries or reports...😎

I was having a carb with damaged slide and the revvs would go down only very slowly. It got on my nerves / I had enough of it and thought about selling the bike. One day, maybe 2 months back I came across a 2nd hand carb which I had purchased but never used. I took it to my mech and asked him to swap it. He did so and retuned the carb. But ever since the bike is running too lean, needs more than 1 km running with the choke on, acceleration isn't good until about 60 kmph etc. But after 4k rpm it is like a demon as long as I keep the rpm up. I ride 13 ~14 kms (x2) daily and a small stretch of around 2 kms is straight(nearly). On that stretch I was riding above 6.5k rpm. I don't do that regularly, my normal speed if there is no traffic is 60 to 70 kmph.
Well, the bright side of low power is high mileage. I am getting 37 to 44 kmpl nowadays in rayp mode. Just to check it (almost) daily I fill in 50 ₹ worth of petrol (440 ml). The figures vary depending on whether there is a road block or not.
My re-registration is due in some days and till then I am not going to tinker with anything. After that I may opt for more power.. let's see.