That's a great figure ....above 60 kmpl !!!

Great figures just mean that it'll bite you in the ass later on.

You can get anything from any SVC if you order, just make sure they note your name and part numbers. Arun bro got the AFR screw from his SVC after placing an order, and IIRC I remember psr saying that it was the hardest part to source.

Not a surprise, cause am still running on stock pilots.
And I've consulted psr sir, and he said pilot replacement only needed if reboreing the ZMA past 250cc's so am happy . Though the cold start thingi can get abit irritating when the idle's set at 1.4k when hot.

Hi Everyone

I need help from all Karizmans regarding my decision on buying Karizma R. Please give your experiences of the bike. Things like mileage, heating problem, starting problems and all other suggestions. Whether the bike is good for long trips (800Kms+ types). My built - 6 ft, 76 kgs. Budget 90K
Kindly suggest....

Today i was coming to office around 7.15 am. There was a speed breaker (well not exactly a speed breaker but a big hump). so downshifted and after crossing it tried to upshift, but felt something missing. I look down and see that the gear lever was hanging. it got disconnected somehow. Stopped the bike and tried to fix the nut, but didnt have the correct spanner for that (as i said in one of my earlier posts, few of the tools went missing from my toolkit post servicing) Couldnt even find a mechanic nearby as it was early. Somehow pushed it inside with hand and kept riding keep my foot beside the lever so that it doesnt go off again.
Now my query. 1. What would be cost of a gear lever. Mine got bent earlier courtesy a fall earlier. If it is not on a higer side, will get it changed else with just get the old one itted properly
2. Also planning to get a proper tool kit. Any suggestions on which ones are better and possible costs

@Cool: Would be helpful if you could post your requirements from the bike, as in daily usage and expectation from the bike, so that others can give you proper suggestions. Regarding mileage, most of the riders get 35-40(iget around 38-42). but there are also cases where few guys got 25. and regarding heat. didnt notice much heat(except for a few occassions) in the 2 1/2 yrs of owing the ZMA

Sorry to hear this. My suggestion to all ZMA owners is that while giving the bike for service or even street shop, always remove Tool Kit and other valuable accessories. I know most of the time is lazyness or we forget to take it out. Let's not put ourselves in a tight situation to learn lesson.

Check and get those missing tools and that should suffice for doing cycle parts fix. I would another buy ZMA tool kit from showroom for the bike and keep the old one at home.

went straight to asc after office and got the gear lever changed (as it was bent earlier due to a fall). Here'e a breakup of the total cost:
Pedal Assy Gear Change - Rs. 121.40
Pivot Change Pedal - Rs. 19.21
Nut Hex 8mm - Rs. 2.18
Labour Charge - Rs. 30
Vat@ 14.5% - Rs. 20.70

2nd oil change after reboring

Last day , I changed the engine oil . Here I don't have much options as to the make of the oil . Had almost fixed on an oil by Reliance when I saw it was only marketed by them ( MADE BY SOME ONE ELSE) . Finally I chose Petronas.

Now the gear shift is very smooth . Might be that the 600 odd km old oil made the gear shift harsh . The engine sound seems to be a bit muted , . The engine seems to be a bit loose (relaxed/eager to revv) than before . The front brake has also been looked into . It's a bit spongy right now . My AFR screw seems to be a bit tight even after applying Zorrik . Have to keep at it and make it loose . The H/L switch seems to be playing truant . The high beam sometimes requires additional effort to come on . I've seen it in Vineeth bro's ride too . Is it a common fault on ZMAs ?

This is the damage seen on my fork . The chrome plating hasn't been peeled off . Looks like a result of rubbing. A very thin layer of oil is the only clue . Am letting it be as it is . When the leak becomes too much I'll just change the tube .

In my last post I'd mentioned I'd mentioned that the oil has been changed after 600 odd kms . This is what the old oil looked like .

^ I've got mixed feeling whenever I happen to see the oil dark. I would not always think dark oils are done. It's the vicosity that matters. There are more than few opinions about the color change. It's the viscosity and the level of oil inside the reservoir makes it important.

Petronas are good quality and economical. Since I'm not able to see (firewall reason), would think it is Sprinta 5000 series.

Sir, Just to satisfy my curiosity can you inspect the sparkplug.

In the past couple of days i m noticing starting problem with my bike.
It would start but would not stay on unless i rev a little...
Now i think its something to do with the sparkplug maybe need to change it maybe not...Can any1 correct me if im wrong

Sri could you please explain a little more on this? My oil always darkens after around 1000km. But the level and viscosity seem fine. I've always been worried about this and I keep changing the oil every 1000 to 1500km.

+1 to you Sriram. Its not the color that matters; its the viscosity that matters. Generally I take a drop of oil on my point finger and press it against my thumb to see how the viscosity is.

I will give one example, In the last service of my Dazzler, due to defective clutch bearing, had to change it. The clever people there, first did the service and changed the oil, and then changed the bearing. So, before they opened the clutch case, they drained the oil in to clean can and refilled it after the baring was changed. When they drained the oil, the oil looked dark, and its just a 50-km old only. I took a drop on to my finger, then I can see its good and not that dark.

What I feel is, one should take a drop on the finger or some object and then assess the color.

Also, one should note that when you change the oil, there is still 0.2L liter of old oil is left in the engine and it will get mixed with new oil, changing the color of the new oil instantaneously.

The thinner the oil the more the blow by in crank and more quickly the engine oil will get dark in color.. the engine oil changes color depending on the amount of blowby that happens. Blowby in to crank shaft area is due to either thin oil, or poor ring seal with bore,or bad /adulterated petrol producing more smoke,a part of which escapes into the oil below.
In all cases the oil captures and retains the blowby ,and hence changes color.....how long to retain the same oil is an individual's choice,and accordingly the health of engine...Nobody had lost an engine due to early oil change,...but most had due to prolonged oil change intervals.....

Now I believe you should check the sparkplug to satisfy your own curiosity.

+ A Million.